Front Row

by Jerry Oppenheimer

  With all of that in mind, I would like to point out that all source quotes—people interviewed by me or my researchers—are written in the present tense (“she observes,” “he notes,” “they say”), and quotes from all other sources—newspaper and magazine articles both foreign and domestic, and books—are written in the past tense (“he said,” “it was stated”). As I pointed out in my acknowledgments, Anna Wintour declined to cooperate with me. Therefore the quotes attributed to her throughout this book come from my sources, from news stories, or from published interviews, and those quotes are in the past tense (“Anna declared,” “Anna said”).

  Along with my many on-the-record interviews, two books contain valuable material and intimate details about Anna’s relatively brief editorship of British Vogue and her beginnings at American Vogue. They are Grace Mirabella’s memoir, In and Out of Vogue, and Liz Tilberis’s autobiography, No Time to Die. Quotes and thoughts attributed to them by me are from their books and from press interviews Tilberis and Mirabella gave. Tilberis had died by the time I began researching this book, and Mirabella pointed me to her own tell-all, diplomatically emphasizing that she had “no more to say on the subject of Anna Wintour.”

  As I have noted, reports in a number of newspapers and magazines about Anna’s life and career, mostly from her Vogue years forward, were valuable resources. Among them are, in London, the Guardian, The Times, The Sunday Times, the Daily Mail, The Mail On Sunday, The Evening Standard, The Daily Telegraph, The Independent, The Observer, Private Eye, Harpers & Queen, Tatler, and Time and Tide. In the United States, the publications included The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal the New York Post, the New York Daily News, The New York Observer, The Houston Post, The Washington Post, the Los Angeles Times, Women’s Wear Daily, New York magazine, Time magazine, Texas Monthly, Talk, Spy, Savvy, Viva, and Vogue. A number of Web sites were also informative, among them , BFI.Org.UK, Lookonline.com (Daily Fashion Report), Photography.About.com, Totallycool.net, Fashion-weekdaily.com, Sixtiespop.com, and Hintmag.com.

  Index

  Note: “AW” stands for “Anna Wintour.”

  Abbey Road Studios, 21

  Ad Lib (club), 37

  Adolfo, 331

  Adriano’s (restaurant), 249

  Adweek (magazine), 209

  Agnew, Patti Gilkyson, 5, 54, 312, 323–24

  AIDS, 222

  Aitken, Max (Lord Beaverbrook), 6–10, 32, 97

  Alaia, Azzedine, 331

  Alexander, Hilary, 327

  Alexander’s (store), 142

  Allen, Woody, 39, 101

  Allure (magazine), 204, 299–301, 302, 316, 324

  American Foundation for Suicide Prevention, 325

  Amis, Martin, 53, 142

  Anderson, Dame Kitty, 48

  Annabel’s (club), 37, 82

  Arbus, Diane, 325

  Architectural Digest (magazine), 269, 272, 287

  Armani, Giorgio, 333

  Armstrong-Jones, Antony (Lord Snowdon), 52

  Astley, Amy, 351

  Astor, Brooke, 267

  Auden, W. H., 13, 47

  Austin, Stephen F., 337

  Australia, 59

  Australian Women’s Weekly, 133

  Avedon, Richard, 67, 89, 102

  Bachrach, Judith, 352–53

  backgammon, 83

  Bagley, Mark, 356

  Bahrenburg, D. Claeys, 305

  Bailey, David, 89, 258

  Baker, Anna Gilkyson, 2, 78–79

  Baker, Ralph Jackson, 2, 78–79

  Baker family, 2, 55

  Bancroft, Anne, 127

  Bantry, Brian, 192

  Barkin, Ellen, 221

  Baron, Fabien, 304

  Baron, Fred, 337

  Baryshnikov, Mikhail, 127

  Bass, Ann, 335

  Bass, Curt, 199

  Bass, Serena Shaffer, 199–200

  Basso, Dennis, 331

  Baumgold, Julie, 186, 206, 318

  Bayou Club, Houston, Texas, 354

  Beatles, the, 20–21, 38, 238

  Beaverbrook, Lord (Max Aitken), 6–8, 9–10, 32, 97

  Beck, Paul, 311

  Beckinsale, Kate, 318

  Beene, Geoffrey, 309, 331, 333

  Beer, Claude, 91–93, 155, 168

  Bendel’s (store), 112, 198

  Bennett, Alan, 163, 170

  Bennett, Tony, 55

  Benson, Dianne, 167, 198, 199, 200, 225

  Benson, Irving, 200

  Bercu, Michaela, 287–88

  Berg, A. Scott, 247, 248–51

  Bergdorf Blondes, The, 327

  Bergen, Candice, 23

  Berk, Lotte, 107

  Biba (boutique), 37, 42–44

  Black, Cilla, 43

  Blackburn, Robin, 53

  Blackwell, Chris, 106–7, 153

  Blair, Tony, 238

  Blanche, Andrea, 182–83, 211–13, 230, 244–45

  Blass, Bill, 101, 309, 331, 332

  Bloch, Peter, 116–17, 124, 125, 149

  Bloomingdale’s (store), 310, 330

  Blow, Isabella, 157, 226–28

  Bobroff Stephen, 56–58, 64, 72

  Boman, Eric, 81–82, 200

  Boone, Mary, 187

  Boosey, Georgina, 239, 241

  Booth, Pat, 72

  Boston, Massachusetts, 4

  Bosworth, Patricia, 117, 325–26

  Bowes-Lyon, John, 267

  Bowles, Hamish, 328

  Bradshaw, Jimmy, 249, 260

  Bradshaw, Jon, 83–95, 97, 99, 100, 105–6, 114, 116, 118, 119, 132–34, 139–41, 156, 158–59, 167, 171, 201–2, 247–52, 336, 346, 347

  AWs reliance on, after breakup, 201–2

  decline, death and funeral of, 247–52

  Bradshaw, Shannon, 249, 250

  Breslin, Jimmy, 176

  Brinkley, Christie, 221

  “Briterati,” 12

  Brodovitch, Alexei, 104

  “Brogue,” 236

  Bronze Star, 5

  Brooks, Joe, 124–25

  Brooks, Louise, 19

  Broughton, Lady Diana, 226

  Broughton, Jock Delves, 226

  Brown, Bobby, 348

  Brown, George Hambley, 293

  Brown, Tina, 204–5, 269, 270, 293–96, 301, 305, 308, 316, 324, 352–53

  Browne, Leslie, 127

  Brush, Stephanie, 121, 123, 126, 131, 135, 142

  Bryan, Alexis, 339

  Bryan, Ashley, 339

  Bryan, James Alexander, 340

  Bryan, James Perry “J.P.,” 337

  Bryan, James Perry “J.P.,” Jr., 337, 354, 356

  Bryan, John Austin, 340

  Bryan, Katherine Gurley, 335, 340, 345–46, 349–50

  Bryan, (John)Shelby, 91, 286, 335–42, 345–46, 348, 349–50, 352–57

  Buchsbaum, Alan, 221–22

  Buck, Joan Juliet, 68–69, 212

  Bullock, Sandra, 322

  Burnett, Carol, 54

  Bush, George H. W., 270, 322

  Bush, George W., 354

  Bushnell, Candace, 321

  Byblos, 289

  Cahan, Dr. William, 276–77

  Caligula (film), 138

  Callan, Paul, 7–8, 37, 40–41, 52, 349

  Cambridge University, 2, 47, 52

  Campbell, Jeremy, 76–77

  C&C Music factory, 310

  Cantwell, Mary, 325

  Caprice (restaurant, London), 17

  Carrara, André, 130

  Carson, Carol Devine, 163, 170

  Carter, Ernestine, 66

  Carter, Graydon, 353

  Case, Margaret, 280

  Cash, Johnny, 55

  celebrities, on Vogue covers, 321–22

  Central Intelligence Agency, 13

  Cerne Abbas, 3–4

  Chan, Charlie (haircutter), 238

  Chanel, 156, 207, 310, 329, 331, 333

  Chanel, Coco, 316

  Charles, Prince of Wales, 13, 238, 295

  Chatelaine, Alex,
71

  Chelsea Hotel (New York), 197, 198, 200

  Chelsea Piers (New York), 343

  Cher, 23

  Chic Happens (Web site), 340, 354

  Chow, Michael, 233, 237, 267, 270

  Chow, Tina, 169, 233

  Christiaan (hairdresser), 272

  Christie, Julie, 38, 43

  Churchill, Winston, 4, 241

  Clair, Bernard, 349

  Claridge’s (hotel), 304

  Clarke, Julie, 133, 143

  Cleave, Maureen, 19–21, 22, 61

  Clement, Dick, 250

  Clemente, Francesco, 204

  Clermont (club), 82

  Clift, Montgomery, 325

  Clinton, Bill, 284, 286, 322–24, 335, 350

  Clinton, Hillary, 45, 319, 322–24

  CM Ranch, 310–13

  Coddington, Grace, 237, 239, 241, 257–60, 287, 304, 315

  Cohn, Nik, 84, 116, 140

  Colacello, Bob, 172

  Collins, Judy, 325

  Condé Nast, 29, 35, 89, 173, 204, 207, 213, 216–17, 225, 230–31, 244, 262, 263, 265–69, 272, 273, 275–83, 293–96, 298–99, 301–6, 311, 330, 332, 351, 352

  Condé Nast Tower, New York City, 357

  Conran, Shirley, 98

  Conran, Sir Terence, 30, 98

  Cooper, Amy Gross, 298, 301

  Cooper, Art, 298

  Cosmopolitan (magazine), 117

  Costume Institute Gala (New York), 333, 348

  Crawford, Cindy, 321–22

  Criner, Susan, 355, 356

  Cristina, 152, 155–57

  Cristophe (hairstylist), 323

  Croix de Guerre, 5

  Cronkite, Walter, 286

  Crow, Elizabeth, 302

  Crum, Bartley, 325

  Cunningham, Bill, 96, 310

  Cunningham, Merce, 127

  Curran, Elen, 48

  Daily Express (newspaper, London), 36, 39, 40, 116, 306

  Daily Express (newspaper, Manchester), 9

  Daily Mail (newspaper, London), 21, 39, 40–41, 91, 99, 230, 250, 262

  Daily News (newspaper, New York), 350

  Daily Racing Form (newspaper), 292

  Daily Republican, The (newspaper,

  Phoenixville, Pennsylvania), 2

  Daily Telegraph, The (newspaper, London), 174, 239, 327, 342, 353–54

  Daisy Chain, 152

  Daly, Barbara, 80

  Danes, Claire, 322

  Daniel, Alice, 160

  Daniels, Judith, 158–63, 168, 169–71

  Da Silvano (restaurant), 175–76

  David, Elizabeth, 198

  Davis, Lorraine, 286

  de Bendern, Emma, 40

  de la Renta, Oscar, 89, 101, 267, 309, 323, 329, 350

  Della Femina, Jerry, 270

  Demarchelier, Patrick, 130, 304, 307

  Democratic Party, 335, 353

  Dempster, Nigel, 36–41, 59, 81, 84, 85–87, 91–92, 99, 116, 195, 230, 249, 250, 294

  Devil Wears Prada, The (by Lauren Weisberger), 326-28

  Diamond, Edwin, 305–6

  Diana, Princess of Wales, 17, 295–96

  Dianne B. (boutique), 121, 167, 184, 191

  Dingemann, Joanna, 44

  Dior, Christian, 331

  Dobell, Bryon, 132–33, 134, 171

  Dobson, Miss, 15

  Dolly’s (club), 38

  Donovan, Carrie, 101, 108, 109–10, 209, 297

  Doonan, Simon, 298

  Doppelt, Gabe, 235, 241, 267, 286, 298, 301–2, 311, 314, 326

  Doyle Dane Bernbach, 82

  drugs, AWs avoidance of, 37–38

  Duff, Susan, 122, 123–25, 135–36, 149

  Duka, John, 176

  East Village (New York), 233

  Ecart International, 222

  École Internationale de Genève, 196

  Edmiston, Susan, 168, 171, 195

  Eisenhower, Dwight, 5

  Elaine’s (club), 141, 249

  Elder Dempster Lines, 36

  Electric Circus (fashion company), 198

  Eliot, T. S., 47

  Elizabeth II, Queen, 86

  Elle, American (magazine), 274–75, 280, 288, 289–92, 303, 309, 330

  Elle, French (magazine), 274

  Elle Home (magazine), 269

  Elliott, Tony, 82

  Emeline jewelry, 81

  Encounter (magazine), 13

  Entertaining (book by Martha Stewart), 203

  Epstein, Brian, 20

  Erroll, Lloyd, 226

  Ertegun, Ahmet, 348

  Ertegun, Mica, 348

  Esquire (magazine), 117, 132

  Esteban, Michel, 114, 152–55, 158, 174

  Evans, Harry, 352

  Evening Standard (London) (newspaper, London), 6–7, 9–11, 19–21, 26, 29, 39, 42–43, 47, 53, 57, 59, 61, 62, 76–77, 86, 90, 97, 98, 216, 229, 241, 243, 255, 260–61, 293, 341, 349

  Farb, Diane Lokey, 339

  Farndale, Nigel, 174

  fashion, in New York in 1970s, 100–101

  fashion industry

  gossip in, 340

  Vogue’s support of, 320, 331–34

  fashion magazines, rivalry among, 291, 303–10

  Fashion Week, 289, 333, 342

  Fashion Weekly (newspaper), 261

  Felker, Clay, 159, 176

  Ferrière, Adolphe, 196

  Fielding, Willie, 90

  Fleet Street reporters, 36–37

  Flowers, Gennifer, 322

  Forbes (magazine), 274

  Ford, Eileen, 200

  Ford, Tom, 332, 358

  Fortnum & Mason (restaurant, London), 17

  Foster, Roseanna, 31

  Four Seasons (restaurant), 281, 295, 343

  Frazer, Jackson, 144

  Frazer, Phillip, 144

  Freeman, Robert Elliot, 112, 252

  Frieda, John, 357

  Fullenweider, Don, 349

  Fur Information Council of America, 330

  Furstenberg, Diane von, 101, 356

  Fury, Kathleen, 161

  Galiano, John, 329, 332

  Gandee, Charles, 286

  Gaultier, Jean Paul, 309, 358

  Gere, Richard, 142

  Gianoti, Marco, 331

  Gilbert, Ruth, 177–78

  Gilkyson, Delia, 312

  Gilkyson, Eliza, 55, 312

  Gilkyson, Hamilton H. “Terry” III, 55

  Gilkyson, Nancy, 55

  Gilkyson family, 55, 312

  Gilliam, Terry, 91

  Gitterman, Peter, 52–53

  Givenchy, 101

  Givhan, Robin, 319–20

  Glamour (magazine), 117

  Glorious Foods (caterer), 298–99

  Goldsmith, Clio, 186

  Goode, Jim, 146

  Goodman, Tonne, 108

  Goodman, Wendy, 108

  Goude, Jean-Paul, 139

  GQ (magazine), 298

  Graham, Katharine, 320

  Granta (literary magazine at Cambridge), 3

  Greenwich Village (New York), 221–22, 334

  Griggs, Barbara, 42–43

  Gropp, Lou, 263, 267, 271, 277

  Gross, Amy, 207, 219, 226, 286

  Gross, Michael, 243–44, 262, 285, 333–34

  Grosvenor, Lady Leonora, 90

  Grove, Valerie, 20, 29, 31, 98, 154

  Guardian, The (newspaper, London), 231, 322, 323, 330, 347, 353

  Guccione, Bob, 116–19, 125, 130, 133, 135–38, 145–46, 148–49

  townhouse of, 135–36

  Guinness, Catherine, 146–47

  Gunn, Georgia, 121–23, 126, 150, 152–53, 156, 160, 162, 170, 178, 224

  Habitat (store), 30

  Hachette (publisher), 330

  Haden-Guest, Anthony, 59, 87, 167, 173–74

  hair styles, 20–21

  Hall, Jerry, 23, 129

  Hamill, Pete, 174

  Harper’s Bazaar, American (magazine), 101–10, 117, 161, 209, 280, 290, 303–9, 330

  Harper’s Bazaar, Bri
tish (magazine), 63, 66

  Harpers & Queen (magazine), 57, 63–75, 79, 80–83, 89, 90, 94–97, 99, 101, 123, 189, 224, 236

  Harriman, Averell, 102

  Harrison, George, 21, 38

  Harrods (store), 51–53

  Harry, Debbie, 152, 348

  Harry Cover (shop), 154

  Harvard University, 2

  Hayes, Ed, 342

  Hearst corporation, 101, 303–6

  Hefner, Hugh, 39, 136

  Hernandez, Lazaro, 332

  Hewitt, Jennifer Love, 348

  HG (magazine), 176, 269–73, 277, 278, 280–81, 282, 286–87, 294, 297, 301, 315

  Hicks, Sophie, 259

  Hill, Pat, 121, 125–28, 140, 150

  Hirschfeld, Al, 305

  Hitchens, Christopher, 53, 270

  Hobson, Jade, 130, 217–19, 231–32, 279, 286

  Hocking, Jennifer, 63–71, 73–74, 77, 80, 94–95

  Hockney, David, 162, 270

  Hodin, Annabel, 80–81, 82, 88–89, 92, 148, 194–95

  Hogg, Min, 95–97

  Holman, Libby, 247, 251

  Hopper, Dennis, 270

  House & Garden (magazine), 222, 263–71, 277, 278, 281, 286

  Houston, Texas, 338–39, 349, 354–57

  Houston, Whitney, 348

  Howell, Georgina, 308–9

  Hulanicki, Barbara, 42–44

  Humphries, Barry (“Dame Edna Everage”), 13

  Hurley, Elizabeth, 322, 348

  Hyde, Nina, 320

  Idle, Eric, 141

  IGC Communications, 335, 350, 354

  Ikida, Shig, 130

  ImClone, 212

  Intelligencer (gossip column), 341

  Interview (magazine), 146, 171–72, 176, 298–99

  Irwin, Helen, 145–49

  Isabell, Robert, 297

  Israel, Marvin, 104

  Jackson, Wyoming, 311–13

  Jacobs, Marc, 298, 309, 329, 332, 358

  Jagger, Mick, 23

  James, Oliver, 31, 212

  James of Rusholme, Lord, 48

  Janklow, Mort, 279

  John, Elton, 61

  Johnson, Rowan, 124–26, 128, 131, 164

  Jones, Grace, 139

  Jones, Laurie, 174–75, 206, 322, 324–25, 326–28, 344

  Jones, Paula, 324

  Josey, Gretchen Smith Bryan Chandler, 337–39, 355

  Josey, Jack, 338

  Kahn, Ben, 331

  Karan, Donna, 309, 320

  Kazanjian, Dodie, 267

  Keaton, Diane, 101, 221

  Keeler, Christine, 47

  Keeton, Kathy, 117, 119, 125, 126, 130, 134–37, 145–49

  Kennedy, John F., 3