The Tao of Travel

by Paul Theroux

  Patrick Leigh Fermor and Friends

  AS A YOUNG man he travelled alone, walking across Europe from Holland to Turkey in 1933, a trip he described many years later in two books, A Time of Gifts (1977) and Between the Woods and the Water (1986). He is justly famous for having written one of the most evocative books about the Caribbean, The Traveller’s Tree (1950) (see Chapter 23, “Classics of a Sense of Place”). He makes no bones about travelling in a group, and in fact has a felicitous way of describing this: “My companions, from beginning to end, were two friends: Joan, who’s English, and Costa, who is Greek. Both of them, whittled now to shadows, are constantly present in the following pages.”

  Edward Abbey and Family

  A GREAT HERO of loners and wanderers, high-plains drifters and monkey-wrenchers (eco-saboteurs), Abbey, a contradictory soul, craved the company of others, usually fellow boozers. But he had a way of pretending to have been solitary, being selective in the retelling of his experiences. In Desert Solitaire, where he celebrates solitude and his lonely communing with nature in southern Utah, he does not mention that for one five-month period he was living in a trailer with his third wife, Rita, and young son. Whole chapters of the book, such as “The Moon-Eyed Horse”, “very likely never happened at all”, his biographer, James Cahalan, wrote.

  Wilfred Thesiger and Friends

  OFTEN THOUGHT OF as the solitary nomad of the Empty Quarter, Thesiger could not bear to be alone. In his Wilfred Thesiger: The Life of the Great Explorer, Alexander Maitland writes, “As for Thesiger’s pursuit of ‘the peace that comes with solitude’, by his own admission he found solitude unbearable. His friend John Verney [a painter] described him as someone who ‘hates being left alone for more than a minute. He may travel in remote parts of the world, but always accompanied by a crowd of tribesmen, porters or whatever and has probably spent fewer hours in total solitude than, like most painters, I’m accustomed to spend in a week. By solitude, Thesiger appears to have meant something like the ‘clean’ space of desert undefiled by modern communications or modern transport, and the harmonious traditional life he found among the tribes who lived there.” In later life Thesiger lived with an African family in northern Kenya. They demanded money, cars, and radios, and he paid up, not minding that he was being fleeced as long as they kept him company.

  Jean Cocteau, Passepartout, and Charlie Chaplin

  PART STUNT, PART challenge by Paris-Soir, but primarily a literary opportunity, Cocteau (1889–1963) claimed that he could travel at least as well as Phileas Fogg and make it around the world in eighty days. He set off in March 1946, accompanied by his lover and part-time secretary Marcel Khill, whom he called Passepartout in the book Mon Premier Voyage (1937). He had met Khill in 1932, when Cocteau was forty-three and Khill twenty (though he looked fifteen, Cocteau said). The book was translated as My Journey Round the World. In an introduction to a new edition, the actor and writer Simon Callow wrote: “[Khill] and Cocteau met at the house of a Toulon naval officer … who had ‘discovered’ him working on a chain gang; he was dispensing opium, thus uniting in his person two of Cocteau’s keenest appetites.”

  The book, a breathless diary, was dedicated to André Gide. In the course of travelling through Malaya, Cocteau puns in French on the name Kuala Lumpur, calling it “Kuala l’impure”, but it is clear that he is too bored, fatigued, and preoccupied to care much about the places he is breezing through, mere glimpses of Egypt, India, Burma, Malaya, and Singapore, with slapdash diary entries.

  And then, on a ship from Hong Kong, the tone of the book rises to a new register: “Charlie Chaplin is on board. It is a staggering piece of news. Later on, Chaplin was to say, ‘The real function of a person’s work is to make it possible for friends like ourselves to cut out preliminaries. We have always known each other.’” Cocteau had never met Chaplin before, but he is dazzled, and after this encounter the book catches fire — not as a travel book but as the account of a new friendship between two stage-struck and bedazzled celebrities, both highly creative and eccentric — and libidinous (Chaplin was travelling with Paulette Goddard). It so happened that Chaplin and Cocteau were exactly the same age, born in 1889 and forty-seven at that point. Chaplin had just made Modern Times, and as a composer (he wrote the song “Smile,” for example) he was just as versatile as Cocteau.

  They meet often on the ship, drink together, talk often (with Khill translating for Cocteau), appraise Honolulu and San Francisco together, and when Cocteau arrives in Los Angeles, Chaplin puts him in touch with the film world’s luminaries, and Cocteau is soon dropping the names King Vidor, Marlene Dietrich, and Gary Cooper. Cocteau won the bet, arriving back in Paris in eighty days. My Journey is a patchy and unsatisfying book, but a glimpse into the hectic life of this ball of fire.

  Claude Lévi-Strauss and Wife

  AUTHOR OF Tristes Tropiques, one of the great books of travel in the (at the time) hardly known parts of Brazil in the 1930s, Lévi-Strauss studied remote and isolated people. And for 362 pages of this book, one is astonished by his serenity, his resourcefulness, and his capacity to deal with the rigours of jungle travel. And then, on page 363, discussing an infectious eye disease, which caused temporary blindness among the Nambikwara people, he writes, “The disease spread to our group; the first person to catch it was my wife who had taken part in all my expeditions so far.” Dina Dreyfus Lévi-Strauss had been with him every step of the way.

  Travel Wisdom of

  SIR FRANCIS GALTON

  The eminent Victorian Galton (1822–1911) had a consuming interest in everything on earth. His bestseller The Art of Travel (1855) was just one of his many books. A noted scientist (“polymath” is usually attached to his name), he was an inventor, a meteorologist, and an early student of anthropology, psychology, fingerprinting, and human intelligence. His wrote extensively on the subject of heredity, and it is probably his association with the pseudoscience of eugenics (he coined the word) that dimmed his reputation and made him seem a dangerous crank. ¶ As his book shows, Galton was widely read in the travel literature of his time, citing Mungo Park, Livingstone, Burton, Speke, and Samuel Baker on African exploration; Elisha Kane on the Arctic; Leichhardt on Australia; and Dana’s Two Years Before the Mast. He mentions his cousin Charles Darwin when discussing the use of animal bones as fuel when firewood is scarce. Along with this extensive reading, in his twenties and early thirties he travelled all over — to Egypt, Turkey, down the Nile, through the Middle East, and just before writing this book, he ranged over what is now Namibia, making maps of the interior. ¶ The Art of Travel is exhaustive on the subject of old-fashioned exploration, and full of tips, such as this: “It is a great mistake to suppose that savages will give their labour or cattle in return for anything that is bright or new: they have their real wants and their fashions as much as we have.” The book is also useful as a reference and collection of curiosa, such as how to bivouac on snow and how to patch a water bag. Always scrupulous with details, Galton advises on the best way to roll up shirtsleeves so they won’t fall down: “the sleeves must be rolled up inwards, towards the arm, and not the reverse way.”

  Qualifications for a Traveller. — If you have health, a great craving for adventure, at least a moderate fortune, and can set your heart on a definite object, which old travellers do not think impracticable, then — travel by all means. If, in addition to these qualifications, you have scientific taste and knowledge, I believe that no career, in time of peace, can offer to you more advantages than that of a traveller. If you have not independent means, you may still turn travelling to excellent account; for experience shows it often leads to promotion, nay, some men support themselves by travel. They explore pasture land in Australia, they hunt for ivory in Africa, they collect specimens of natural history for sale, or they wander as artists.

  Powerful men do not necessarily make the most eminent travellers; it is rather those who take the most interest in their work th
at succeed the best; as a huntsman says, “it is the nose that gives speed to the hound.”

  Tedious journeys are apt to make companions irritable one to another; but under hard circumstances, a traveller does his duty best who doubles his kindliness of manner to those about him, and takes harsh words gently, and without retort. He should make it a point of duty to do so. It is at those times very superfluous to show too much punctiliousness about keeping up one’s dignity, and so forth; since the difficulty lies not in taking up quarrels, but in avoiding them.

  Advantages of Travel. — It is no slight advantage to a young man, to have the opportunity for distinction which travel affords. If he plans his journey among scenes and places likely to interest the stay-at-home public, he will probably achieve a reputation that might well be envied by wiser men who have not had his opportunities.

  10

  Travel as an Ordeal

  IF A VACATION REPRESENTS A TRAVELLER’S DREAM, the ordeal is the traveller’s nightmare. Yet the travel book that recounts an ordeal is the sort that interests me most, because it tests the elemental human qualities needed for survival: determination, calmness, rationality, physical and mental strength. Such books, with their torments, are also more fun: they were among the first travel books I read as a child. No ordeal book is without instances of near madness, hallucinatory episodes, weird fugues, and near-death experiences. ¶ When I was a boy, Donn Fendler was my role model. Later I was enthralled by the accounts of Moorhouse in the Sahara and Thesiger in Arabia, and I had a whole shelf of books about boat sinkings in the Pacific, disasters that ended in many days spent in a rubber dinghy. Dougal Robertson’s is the best such account.

  Some ordeals bring out the wit in a traveller. The last person you’d expect to find travelling on his own in the Colombian jungle is the needy, addicted, and urbane William Burroughs. But Burroughs was determined to go through hell to find the rare Amazonian drug ayahuasca (or yage), purported to be the ultimate high. He succeeded, as he recounted in The Yage Letters.

  An instance or two of ordeal is an element in most great travel books. That is, having a bad time sets such a book apart from the jolly travel romp, giving it a seriousness and depth; as a consequence we begin to understand the person travelling, the real nature of the writer of the book, tested to his or her limit.

  Geoffrey Moorhouse: The Fearful Void (1974)

  NO ONE HAD ever crossed (or at least written about crossing) the Sahara from west to east, an almost four-thousand-mile journey from the Atlantic to the Nile. Moorhouse decided to do it, less to be the first person to achieve it than to examine “the bases of fear, to explore the extremity of human experience”.

  “I was a man who had lived with fear for nearly forty years,” he writes. Fear of the unknown, of emptiness, of death. And he wants to find a way — a journey — to conquer it. “The Sahara fulfilled the required conditions perfectly. Not only did the hazards of the desert represent ultimate forms of my fears, but I was almost a stranger to it.”

  Setting off in October 1972, Moorhouse travelled with various nomad guides, but most dropped away or were exposed as rogues. His sextant broke, he became seriously ill, and death by thirst threatened when he missed an oasis in a sandstorm. With the help of his guide Sid’Ahmed, Moorhouse reached Tamanrasset, in Algeria, in March 1973, where, exhausted and sick, he abandoned the trip. He had travelled two thousand miles, most of it on foot, through sand and gravel and howling wind.

  In the empty eastern desert in Mali he runs out of water. He recalls that twenty-four hours without water in severe temperatures is the limit of human endurance. Half a day passes — no water. Night falls — and twelve hours pass — no water. They set off at six A.M. and walk and ride most of the morning. Following some camel tracks, they come upon a group of nomads. Fainting with thirst and weakness, Moorhouse is offered a cooking pot.

  “There was all manner of filth floating on top of that water; morsels of rice from the dirty pot, strands of hair from the guerba [waterbag], fragments of dung from the bottom of some well. But the water itself was clear, and I could sense the coolness of it even as its level tipped in the cooking pot before touching my lips. It was the most wonderful thing that had happened to me in my life.”

  After he wrote The Fearful Void, he told an English interviewer for the Guardian, “Doing this journey was a piece of propaganda in a way. It seems to me that every writer’s a propagandist, in that he’s trying to advance a point of view he believes; and my own point of view is that we’re all essentially like each other. We all suffer the same things, we all laugh at the same things, and we all have to recognize this interdependence.”

  Valerian Albanov: In the Land of White Death (1917)

  THE BOOK TELLS of the three-month ordeal in 1914 of Albanov and thirteen crewmen, who left the ice-bound ship Saint Anna in Franz Josef Land in the Arctic and travelled 235 miles, sledging across snow and ice and open water (in homemade kayaks). This is essentially Albanov’s diary of the terrible journey. Frostbite, desertion, sudden death, attacks by walruses and polar bears (they shot forty-seven bears), near drownings, and hallucinations: “Aromas of tropical fruit fill the air with their fragrance. Peaches, oranges, apricots, raisins, cloves, and pepper all give off their wonderful scents.”

  Later: “We have not washed now for two months. Catching a chance glimpse of my face in the sextant’s mirror the other day gave me a terrible fright. I am so disfigured that I am unrecognizable, covered as I am with a thick layer of filth. And we all look like this. We have tried to rub off some of this dirt, but without much success. As a result we look even more frightening, almost as if we were tattooed! Our underclothes and outer garments are unspeakable. And since these underclothes are swarming with ‘game’ [lice], I am sure that if we put one of our infested jerseys on the ground, it would crawl away all by itself!”

  Dougal Robertson: Survive the Savage Sea (1973)

  OF THE MANY accounts of sudden sinkings, and survival at sea in a raft, this book stands out as coolly observed, detailed, and eloquent in its stoicism. After a year of sailing, the Lucette, a well-made but fifty-year-old yacht, is rammed by a pod of killer whales just west of the Galápagos Islands. It sinks in a minute, and Captain Robertson has only enough time to launch a dinghy and an inflatable to save himself, his wife, their twin sons, their daughter, and a teenage friend.

  This is the beginning of a 37-day, 750-mile voyage, and after the dinghy sinks, they are crammed into the leaky inflatable, living on rations for a short time and then on fish that they catch and the occasional turtle, battling storms and twenty-foot waves and huge ocean swells. The group also endures bickering between husband and wife, the fear and weakness of the children, sharks, sores, boils, heavy rain, and near capsizes. Robertson, who had been a farmer in rural England, is resourceful in fashioning tools and catching fish and turtles. Many pages describe the catching and butchering of turtles on the tiny raft; the drying and preparation of meat; the manner by which rainwater is trapped and kept.

  One is convinced, before the book ends, that the Robertsons could have made it to land on their own — they were spotted by a Japanese fishing boat 290 miles off the coast of Costa Rica.

  “‘Our ordeal is over,’ I said quietly. Lyn and the twins were crying with happiness … I put my arms about Lyn feeling the tears stinging my own eyes. ‘We’ll get these boys to land after all.’ As we shared our happiness and watched the fishing boat close with us, death could have taken me quite easily just then, for I knew that I would never experience another such pinnacle of contentment.”

  Donn Fendler: Lost on a Mountain in Maine (1939)

  HIKING WITH HIS family high on Maine’s Mount Katahdin in the summer of 1939, twelve-year-old Donn Fendler became separated from the others, then lost in a low cloud. For the next nine days, until he stumbled upon some campers in a remote cabin, he wandered down the mountain, following the course of a stream. At one point he loses his shoes and ha
s to continue barefoot. On the sixth day he faints in the middle of the day.

  The next thing I knew I woke up and it was getting dark.

  I was sitting on a rock looking at my feet. They didn’t seem to belong to me at first. They were the feet of someone else. The toenails were all broken and bleeding and there were thorns in the middle of the soles. I cried a little as I tried to get out those thorns. They were in deep and broken off. I wondered why they didn’t hurt more, but when I felt my toes, I knew — those toes were hard and stiff and hardly any feeling in them. The part next to the big toe was like leather. I tried to pinch it, but I couldn’t feel anything.

  My head ached and I didn’t want to move, but night was falling and I had to go on, at least as far as some big tree. I got to my feet. Was that hard! I could scarcely bend my knees, and my head was so dizzy I staggered. I had to go across an open space to the stream, and as I went along I saw a big bear, just ahead of me. Christmas, he was big — big as a house, I thought — but I wasn’t a bit scared — not a single bit. I was glad to see him.

  Wilfred Thesiger: Arabian Sands (1959)

  THESIGER, WHO DIED in 2003 at the age of ninety-three, is often thought to have been the last real explorer, someone who travelled in remote regions and made significant discoveries — in essence a mapmaker, in the spirit of Richard Burton and H. M. Stanley. Fluent in Arabic, a rider of camels, with a deep sympathy for traditional cultures, Thesiger fought in Ethiopia during World War II and after the war made scientific and personal expeditions in Arabia. He also lived for long periods among the Madan people in the marshes of southern Iraq, an experience he recounts in The Marsh Arabs (1964). That book has great historical value, because the people were displaced by Saddam Hussein in one of his persecutions. Even an average day among the Marsh Arabs seems like an ordeal, but nothing in Thesiger’s work compares with his starving in the Empty Quarter of Arabia: