The Tao of Travel

by Paul Theroux

  The results of such leaps of imagination can be odd, and bad karma seems to blight the fiction of faked countries, because none of these works has remained popular or widely read. Kipling’s imagined Mandalay is an exception, and seems to have displaced the real city. The writers cooking up a country tend to overdo it: look no further than Bellow’s Henderson the Rain King or the Tarzan novels. Joseph Conrad, who piloted a river steamer up the Congo River, and afterward wrote Heart of Darkness, about a man piloting a river steamer up the Congo River, is subtle, understated, and powerful.

  David Livingstone claimed to have been the first to put Lake Nyasa on the map in 1859, but this was accomplished in 1846 by a Portuguese trader, Candido de Costa Cardoso. In the search for the source of the Nile, the Welsh explorer John Petherick (1813–1882) produced a map of Bahr-el-Ghazal in 1858 and described his travels in his Egypt, the Soudan, and Central Africa three years later. But his fellow explorer John Speke publicly disputed the map and the book, claiming that Petherick had lied about his travels, had not been that far south or west, and had concocted both the map and the trip from hearsay. The Nile explorer Samuel Baker wrote in his diary, “Petherick’s pretended journey published in England was entire fiction … Petherick is a gross impostor.”

  Even the traveller, looking closely, often gets things wrong. Richard Henry Dana’s Hawaiians in Two Years Before the Mast (1840), after months of sailing, mistook the island of Nantucket for the whole of the United States, because it was all they saw: the mainland is not visible from the island.

  Here is another instance of travellers’ ignorance, from Mary Kingsley’s Travels in West Africa (1897). She writes, “Watch again a gang of natives trying to get a log of timber down into the river from the bank … No idea of a lever, or anything of that sort — and remember that, unless under white supervision, the African has never made an even fourteenth-rate piece of cloth or pottery, or a machine, tool, picture, sculpture, and that he has never even risen to the level of picture-writing.”

  Never mind the masterpieces of Benin bronzes, the magnificent carvings of the Chokwe people, whom she would have known from her travels in Angola. A little research would have revealed the Amharic script of Abyssinia, two thousand years of Nok sculpture, the immense variety of African pottery, or ancient examples of terracotta statuary. Yet she seems not to have taken any notice even in the places she claimed to know well: Gabon with its Punu and Fang masks and carvings, or the masterpieces of carving — Bamileke and others, and indeed elaborate pots — from Cameroon.

  Yet I am fascinated by imaginary landscapes, what Dr. Johnson called “romantick absurdities and incredible fictions”, that are retailed as the real thing, especially landscapes I have seen. I do not recognize the fictional Africas, and Kafka’s America is one of the weirdest countries of all. As for the outrageous George Psalmanazar — he fooled almost every reader (except Jonathan Swift) in early-eighteenth-century England with his book about Formosa.

  George Psalmanazar’s Travels in Formosa

  THE AMAZING THING about this impostor of travel was the completeness and credibility of his book. Drawing on Dutch accounts, and fantasizing, he created a whole Formosan landscape and culture and made up an entire language of gobbledygook that even years later was taken by some scholars to be an actual Asiatic tongue. The book, published in London in 1704, was a huge success.

  George Psalmanazar (or Psalmanaazaar) also managed to conceal his real identity under this outlandish name (perhaps a version of the Assyrian king Shalmaneser in 2 Kings): his birth name and birthplace are unknown. He was probably French, and he may have been born around 1689. For a while he claimed to be an Irish pilgrim. He also at various times said he was Japanese or Formosan. He claimed to worship the sun and the moon, and he slept sitting upright in a chair (“Formosan-style”, he said), but he was more than the lovable eccentric who was later befriended by Dr. Johnson. “A great lover of penitents,” Jeffrey Meyers writes in his biography Samuel Johnson: The Struggle, “Johnson reverenced Psalmanazar, who’d confessed his sins, reformed his character and become pious, endured prolonged hardship and — though an opium addict — died an exemplary Christian.” But in his travel book, Psalmanazar played upon the anti-Jesuit animus current in the early eighteenth century; disparagements of Catholic missionaries are frequent in his book, something that would have found favour with the predominantly Catholic-hating English.

  “The prevailing Reason for this my Undertaking was,” he writes, “because the Jesuits I had found had imposed so many Stories, and such Gross Fallacies upon the Public, that they might the better excuse themselves from those base Actions, which brought upon them that fierce Persecution in Japan.” The Japanese persecution of Catholics in the 1630s was a historical fact that was given a fictional retelling in Shusako Endo’s 1966 masterpiece, Silence.

  Psalmanazar’s book is in two parts, the first, “An Historical and Geographical Description of Formosa, Giving an account of the Religion, Customs, & of the Inhabitants, Together with a Relation of what happen’d to the Author in his Travels; particularly his Conferences with the Jesuits, and others, in several Parts of Europe. Also the History and Reasons of his Conversion to Christianity, with his Objections against it (in defence of Paganism) and their Answers.” The second part relates his travels: “An Account of the Travels of Mr. George Psalmanaazaar, a Native of the Isle Formosa, thro’ several parts of Europe; with the reasons of his Conversion to the Christian Religion.”

  Discourses on religion aside, the book is highly readable, both for its narrative of abduction and its delineation of a colourful culture. George is taken, under protest, by Jesuits from his native land. He travels to the Philippines, then to Goa, then Gibraltar, where “very much indisposed by the change of Climates, Air and Diet,” he needs to recuperate. Then on to Toulon, Marseille, and into Catholic Avignon and Lutheran Bonn and Calvinist Holland, where he becomes embroiled in theological arguments. He is ultimately converted to Christianity, becoming “a most faithful Member of the Church of England”.

  Having established his loyalty to his adopted country and rulers (William III, who ruled until 1702, when Queen Anne succeeded him), ingratiating himself with readers, he goes on to describe the island of Formosa, with occasional allusions to Japan. This country is “one of the most Pleasant and Excellent of the Asiatic Isles, whether we consider the convenient Situation, the healthful Air, the fruitful Soil, or the curious Springs and useful Rivers, and rich Mines of Gold and Silver wherewith it abounds”.

  He chronicles the history, the monarchy, how the island was invaded by the emperor of Tartary and subdued, the arrival of the Dutch and the English traders, mayhem, mutinies, government, the more colourful of the laws. “Every man may have as many Wives, as his estate is able to maintain,” he says, because children are highly valued. Adultery is severely punished; a man may lawfully kill his wife if she is unfaithful. “But this Law does not extend to Foreigners, to whom the Natives are wont to offer Virgins or Whores, to be made use of at their Pleasure, with Impunity.”

  No mention is made of Buddhism, which flourished in Formosa except for the forty years when the Dutch tried to sideline it. Psalmanazar explains Formosan religion as sun and moon worship, and “idolatry” that requires the sacrifice of oxen, rams, and goats. If “their God is not appeased by other Sacrifices”, infants are killed — their hearts cut out and burned in the thousands. Meticulous illustrations are included in the book, showing where these human sacrifices are performed, where priests cut babies’ throats “and pluck out their Hearts”.

  Because nothing seems to be excluded, the book has a convincing verisimilitude: superstitions, diseases, weapons, musical instruments, and the food of the islanders — roots that they make into bread, fruit, pigs, and “they eat serpents also”. Formosans are not allowed to eat pigeons or turtles. They breed “Elephants, Rhinocerots [sic], Camels” to use as beasts of burden; and for their amusement, “Sea-Horses�
��. In the countryside there are “Lyons, Boars, Wolves, Leopards, Apes, Tygers, Crocodiles”.

  Not everyone was taken in by George Psalmanazar’s hoax. He was mocked even in his own time (he died in 1763), but the book remained popular, perhaps for the reason that travel books have always been popular, because the traveller (like Psalmanazar) claims to be an eyewitness to amazing sights. And the very barbarities in the book’s details seemed to prove that it was a truthful account of a distant land.

  Poe’s Believable Landscapes

  EDGAR ALLAN POE’s life was short, and not a travelling one, yet his fiction is full of foreign landscapes, among them believable Paris, Switzerland, Holland, and Norway, as well as nameless gothic moorlands, and even unearthly ones, such as the cold regions at the end of The Narrative of Arthur Gordon Pym. I read Poe as a teenager and was transported from my humdrum existence to his world of horror and mystery and freakishness.

  Poe was born in Boston in 1809 to parents who were actors. His father had disappeared and his mother was dead by the time he was two years old. Adopted by the Allan family, from whom he got his middle name, he was taken abroad, and before he turned eleven he had seen Scotland and England. But after 1820 he merely shuttled from one American city to another — New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Richmond; and he was dead at forty. High-strung, quarrelsome, competitive, and alcoholic, Poe had an intensity and a belief in his own genius, which compelled his creation of real and imaginary worlds.

  The gothic attracted him, as it attracts many, for its brooding landscape of crags and castles, haunted palaces, its “sense of insufferable gloom” and “shadowy fancies” (“The Fall of the House of Usher”), of moorland and howling wolves, plagues such as “the Red Death”, crypts and catacombs (“A Cask of Amontillado”), and “gloomy grey hereditary halls” (“Berenice”).

  The gothic memory in “William Wilson” is emblematic: “My earliest recollections of a school-life, are connected with a large, rambling, Elizabethan house, in a misty-looking village of England, where were a vast number of gigantic and gnarled trees, and where all the houses were excessively ancient.”

  Or the lugubrious opening of “The Fall of the House of Usher”: “During the whole of a dull, dark, and soundless day in the autumn of the year, when the clouds hung oppressively low in the heavens, I had been passing alone, on horseback, through a singularly dreary tract of country; and at length found myself, as the shades of the evening drew on, within view of the melancholy House of Usher.”

  In his detective fiction, macabre stories, and even his early science fiction, Poe shows himself to be a reader of travel, history, and the arcane — the Red Death, the Spanish Inquisition (“the horrors at Toledo”), the devil in the belfry in the Dutch borough of Vondervotteimittiss; “The Assignation” takes place in a believable Venice.

  Now and then there’s a serious geographical lapse, as in “Silence — A Fable”, which takes place in a “dreary region in Libya, by the borders of the river Zaire … yellow ghastly river … hippopotami.” Elsewhere, his work is distinguished by its exactitude. Poe had never been to France, yet the French loved Poe in Baudelaire’s translations. Detective Auguste Dupin appeared in “The Purloined Letter”, “The Mystery of Marie Rogêt”, and also in “The Murders in the Rue Morgue”, where he is here, walking with the narrator in Paris, part of a paragraph that is convincing in its precision:

  You kept your eyes upon the ground — glancing, with a petulant expression, at the holes and ruts in the pavement (so that I saw you were still thinking of the stones), until we reached the little alley called Lamartine, which has been paved, by way of experiment, with the overlapping and riveted blocks. Here your countenance brightened up, and, perceiving your lips move, I could not doubt that you murmured the word “stereotomy”, a term very affectedly applied to this species of pavement.

  Some corpses are found to be horribly mutilated, and this leads to the Rue Morgue, “one of those miserable thoroughfares which intervene between the Rue Richelieu and the Rue St. Roch”. It turns out that the murderer is an enraged orang-utan with a razor, but Poe knows (as some other authors do not) that orang-utans come from Borneo.

  The opening of his terrifying story “A Descent into the Maelström” is Poe’s most impressive fictional representation of an actual landscape:

  “We are now,” [the old man] continued, in that particularizing manner which distinguished him — “we are now close upon the Norwegian coast — in the sixty-eighth degree of latitude — in the great province of Nordland — and in the dreary district of Lofoden. The mountain upon whose top we sit is Helseggen, the Cloudy. Now raise yourself up a little higher — hold on to the grass if you feel giddy — so — and look out, beyond the belt of vapour beneath us, into the sea.”

  I looked dizzily, and beheld a wide expanse of ocean, whose waters wore so inky a hue as to bring at once to my mind the Nubian geographer’s account of the Mare Tenebrarum. A panorama more deplorably desolate no human imagination can conceive. To the right and left, as far as the eye could reach, there lay outstretched, like ramparts of the world, lines of horridly black and beetling cliff, whose character of gloom was but the more forcibly illustrated by the surf which reared high up against it, its white and ghastly crest, howling and shrieking for ever. Just opposite the promontory upon whose apex we were placed, and at a distance of some five or six miles out at sea, there was visible a small, bleak-looking island; or, more properly, its position was discernible through the wilderness of surge in which it was enveloped. About two miles nearer the land, arose another of smaller size, hideously craggy and barren, and encompassed at various intervals by a cluster of dark rocks.

  The appearance of the ocean, in the space between the more distant island and the shore, had something very unusual about it. Although, at the time, so strong a gale was blowing landward that a brig in the remote offing lay to under a double-reefed trysail, and constantly plunged her whole hull out of sight, still there was here nothing like a regular swell, but only a short, quick, angry cross dashing of water in every direction — as well in the teeth of the wind as otherwise. Of foam there was little except in the immediate vicinity of the rocks.

  This goes on for many more pages, with the revelation of the maelstrom, showing that Poe, a man who had hardly been anywhere — and certainly nowhere like this — was able to create a credible landscape out of his reading and his imagination.

  Thomas Janvier, In the Sargasso Sea

  JANVIER, WHO IS forgotten now, was born in 1849, educated in Philadelphia, lived in New York City, and travelled in Europe and Mexico. He wrote biography, history, and travel; he published a guidebook about Mexico and short stories set in France; and with one exception he wrote directly from experience, describing places he’d been — Provence and Mexico.

  In the Sargasso Sea (1898) was recommended to me by the humourist S. J. Perelman, who told me that this depiction of a man struggling on a sea of weeds was like a version of living and writing in Hollywood. Perelman might have been introduced to the book by his friend Nathanael West, who mentions Janvier in his powerful Hollywood novel, The Day of the Locust. Todd, West’s main character, gets a glimpse of the place where movie sets are disposed of.

  He left the road and climbed across the spine of the hill to look down on the other side. From there he could see a ten-acre field of cockleburs, spotted with clumps of sunflowers and wild gum. In the centre of the field was a gigantic pile of nets, flats and props. While he watched, a ten-ton truck added another load to it. This was the final dumping ground. He thought of Janvier’s “Sargasso Sea”. Just as that imaginary body of water was a history of civilization in the form of a marine junkyard, the studio lot was one in the form of a dream dump.

  The Sargasso Sea actually exists. It was first seen by Columbus, and described by Jules Verne (the Nautilus motored through it in Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea). As a convergence of ocean currents, it
is an elliptical “free-floating meadow of seaweed almost as large as a continent” (Encyclopedia Britannica), rotating slowly clockwise. Because it is adjacent to Bermuda it is part of the mystery associated with the Bermuda Triangle. A breeding place for eels, this sea within a sea is bordered by the Gulf Stream on the west. Its name is from the profusion of brown floating gulfweed (genus Sargassum) visible on its surface.

  It was thought, mistakenly, that the Sargasso Sea trapped ships, and contributing to the vivid ship-swallowing myth, this is the conceit that Janvier uses to great effect in his novel.

  I had come out from the wheel-house and was standing on the steamer’s bridge — which rose right out of the water so that I looked down from it directly on the weed-laden sea. As far as my sight would carry through the soft golden haze I saw only weed-covered water, broken here and there by a bit of wreckage or by a little open space on which the pale sunshine gleamed. A very gentle swell was running, giving to the ocean the look of some strange sort of meadow with tall grass swaying evenly in an easy wind … So far as the world was concerned I was dead already — being fairly caught in the slow eddying current which was carrying my hulk steadily and hopelessly into the dense wreck-filled centre of the Sargasso Sea.