The Afghan Queen: A True Story of an American Woman in Afghanistan

by Paul Meinhardt

  The

  Afghan

  Queen

  A True Story of an

  American Woman in Afghanistan

  by Paul Meinhardt

  Published by Turn the Page Publishing LLC

  P. O. Box 3179

  Upper Montclair, NJ 07043

  www.turnthepagepublishing.com

  Copyright © 2013 Paul Meinhardt

  All Rights Reserved.

  Though inspired by true events, persons described herein are characterizations as described by Lela Meinhardt in her letters and stories. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever, including printed or electronic versions now known or hereinafter devised, without written permission, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. For information address Turn the Page Publishing, P. O. Box 3179, Upper Montclair, NJ 07043.

  ISBN-13: 978-1-938501-22-7

  ISBN ebook-13: 978-1-938501-23-4

  The Afghan Queen

  A True Story of an American Woman in Afghanistan

  Library of Congress Control Number 2012950545

  PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

  Editor Ingrid Davidsen

  Original Photographs by Lela Meinhardt

  Cover Design by Robin McGeever, McB Design

  Dedicated to

  Lela, my dream maker,

  Joan, my reality maker, and

  the many players in this saga

  Special thanks to Kirk Meinhardt

  For contributing his personal journal to The Afghan Queen

  PREFACE

  It has taken nearly 40 years to write the Afghan Queen. While Lela, the Afghan Queen, traveled in Afghanistan between 1975 and 1979, her life in the world of tribal art began years before and continued until her passing in 2000.

  Lela made fifteen trips to Afghanistan during this five year period, spending half the year with her Afghan families and half with her family in New Jersey. Typically, her flights took her to London, Frankfurt, Zurich and Basle where she developed substantial business with museums and boutiques.

  Switzerland became a lucrative outlet for Lela’s tribal art purchases, second only to the U.S. market. Early in her travels she connected with a group of Swiss Sannyasins. This Hindu sect made a pilgrimage to an ashram near Delhi every six months. The leader of this group, Dharma, befriended Lela in the first year of her Afghan business.

  Dharma owned a prominent boutique in Zurich and became the first of Lela’s Swiss customers. Dharma organized the Sannyasin caravan at her boutique. The caravan began and ended at Dharma’s family farm outside of Zurich.

  Lela was recruited as a passenger on Dharma’s bus as a way of making business contacts along the route to Kabul, Afghanistan. The bus led a caravan usually consisting of six vehicles. The caravan stopped at campsites near major cities along the route. Athens and Istanbul were major business stops for Lela and others in the caravan.

  On each caravan trek, a week or more was spent in Athens and Istanbul both for business and at the insistence of local friends. Satya and Versant were Dharma’s close university friends, also from Zurich. On their caravan treks, Lela, Dharma, Satya and Versant became a sisterhood insuring the safety, logistics and behavior of passengers.

  To her many Afghan families and to her family in the U.S. she was truly the Afghan Queen. Lela helped popularize Afghan tribal art in the museums of the U.S., England, Germany and Switzerland, as well as other areas of the world.

  In the 1970s, tribal and Islamic art was in great demand, especially handcrafted jewelry. Afghan jewelry and clothing provided the politically savvy and fashion-conscious with an awareness of a larger world.

  Wearing tribal art allowed people, women in particular, to feel and look like they were part of the global village. In addition to providing substantial employment and cash flow to many Afghan families, Lela’s international enterprise raised the global consciousness of thousands of influential leaders throughout the world.

  The Afghan Queen is a complex fabric of romance, sensuality, travel, enterprise, politics, global economics, familyclan-tribal practices, and the hunger for oil. The following true life story is a labor of love weaving a colorful and engaging tapestry of all of the topics touched on above.

  Map of Afghanistan

  CONTENTS

  Preface

  Contents

  1 ~ Introduction

  2 ~ How it Ends, December 1979

  3 ~ How it Begins, Spring, 1975

  4 ~ First Trip

  5 ~ Foreign Intrigue

  6 ~ Reflections

  7 ~ Afghan Reality

  8 ~ Travel Like the Wind

  9 ~ Silk Road

  10 ~ Mating Road

  11 ~ Road Feast

  12 ~ Rhine

  13 ~ Trader Queen

  14 ~ Fateful Trip

  15 ~ Forests

  16 ~ Into Iran

  17 ~ Herät to Kabul

  18 ~ Revolution

  19 ~ Caravan Through Turkey

  20 ~ Demoniac

  21 ~ Digs

  22 ~ Business

  23 ~ Crossing

  24 ~ Chinese Diplomat

  25 ~ Changes

  26 ~ Son of Afghan Queen

  27 ~ Great Game

  28 ~ Ending, November-December

  29 ~ Author Commentary

  30 ~ End Notes

  1

  INTRODUCTION

  This is the love story of Lela Meinhardt, an American tribal art trader in Afghanistan. She traveled and traded with migrating Afghan tribes from 1975 to 1980 at a time when Americans, and their money, were welcomed by the Afghan people and when America had a no military presence in Afghanistan. Lela’s adventures are recorded in the letters she sent to her husband, Paul.

  To the people who knew her, Lela was a heroic, gentle, caring and brilliant business woman. To her husband, she was a loving spouse, as well as his best friend. She survived and prospered through five years of war and revolution, but in the end could not resist Mother Nature’s call. She was married for 41 years before she passed on in 2000, the result of lymphoma cancer.

  Lela’s adventures in Afghanistan are more the stuff of legend than a modern journey. Her five years of travel provided self-discovery and were an inspiration to all who knew her. Through Lela’s efforts, the museums and art world were presented with a spectacular insight into the tribal art and culture of the Afghan people.

  The Afghan Queen portrays Lela’s experiences in the alternating voices of the author and Lela herself. There has been no attempt made to dramatize these experiences, as everything that has been written reflects things that really happened.

  The story begins by telling how it ends.

  2

  HOW IT ENDS - DECEMBER 1979

  When the Russian tank fired into the hotel lobby, just below their second floor room, Lela and Kit were ready. They had prepared for the oncoming mayhem as soon as they heard the tank rumbling down Chicken Street toward their hotel. Hanging sheets over the windows, and placing a large Soviet flag in the window, Kit opened the door and then she and Lela hunkered down in a tent of mattresses.

  Like an earthquake, the tank slammed a cannon shell into the lobby, as Lela and Kit remained covered by mattresses until the vibrations and shattering stopped. They had been warned this might happen by Mike, Lela’s business partner.

  When the roar of the tank engine stopped, they threw off the mattresses and ran to the window to see the war zone below. Kit, an Australian nurse who seemed to know what to do, grabbed Lela and pulled
her down, warning that snipers might shoot at the windows. They used their cosmetic mirrors to see what was happening outside.

  When it was safe, they cautiously peeked out the window. The tank was quiet and still. What looked like the tank crew of five was standing at rigid attention next to the tank. An officer’s car pulled in front of the tank, followed by three ambulances. Two female officers loudly berated the tank crew.

  One of the women ordered the crew back in the tank then walked to the car and turned the engine. She drove slowly with the tank following. The other officer ordered ambulance crews to follow her into the lobby with their gurneys.

  Lela and Kit raced downstairs to greet the Russian officer. Kit had her Australian Communist Party card in her hand. The officer noticed them immediately and Kit offered her Party card as she addressed the “Comrade Major” in what sounded like tortured Russian. Lela frowned and glanced at Kit, wondering how she knew any Russian at all. After five years of working together, she thought it curious that Kit never divulged this bit of information.

  Comrade Major smiled and vigorously shook hands with Kit and Lela. “My English is excellent, no need to strain yourself with Russian,” said the major.

  “I’m a nurse practitioner, willing and able to aid you as needed,” replied Kit.

  “Excellent,” said the Major as she jotted some notes on her clip-board. “My three medical teams have checked the first floor, but other than a few minor cuts and bruises, no serious casualties were found.

  “Structural damage appears minimal, except for broken glass and plaster. Fortunately, the shell passed through the lobby without exploding. There’s Russian technology for you, slovenly on a good day, disastrous on a bad day.”

  The Major continued, “I’m here to offer our regrets for the careless attack on this hotel. It is particularly embarrassing as my cousin is the tank commander. No attack orders were given. The tank commander took it upon himself to turn a patrol exercise into an attack.

  “The tank crew claims shots were fired from the hotel roof. They admit they were quite nervous and may be mistaken. This is their first duty assignment, punishment will be light. I’ll recommend they be sent to the Chinese-Siberian border for retraining.

  “If you would be so kind, please lead the medical teams on each floor. Knock gently on each door. Ask the occupants to open the door so we can check for injuries and damage,” explained the Major. “Here are pass-keys. Use the keys if there is no response. I have ordered the medics to stay out of sight until you call them. It will go better if guests do not see military uniforms.”

  Kit led one team to the second floor, while Lela accompanied a team to the third floor. Lela went door to door, knocking and calling in her most sympathetic voice, “Please open the door. We need to check for injuries and damage.” She did this three times before using the pass keys. Most rooms were vacant. A few were occupied by guests from Pakistan.

  On the third floor there were neither injuries nor broken windows. Some plaster littered the hall. The few occupants said they stayed under the bed when they felt the rumbling. At first it was thought to be an earthquake, as quakes are common in Afghanistan.

  The medical teams checked each guest, following a checklist. The guests were requested to sign release forms after each examination.

  As a final gesture of friendship, the medics invited the guests to the lobby where they were given vouchers for their stay at the hotel. The major assured the guests that the Soviet army would pay the hotel bill for each voucher. Smiles appeared on the faces of the guests when they realized that they would not be troubled with paying for their stay.

  Lela asked if she could send a telex to her family. The major smiled and said, “Yes, certainly, I will accompany all of you across the street to the telex office. You may all telex and the Soviet army will bear the cost. We must also telex your embassies about this incident and your state of health. That is an international requirement.”

  Just as they started for the front door, a round little man emerged from the basement alternately shouting, weeping and whining. “Look what you did to my beautiful hotel. It was just redecorated. Who will pay for all the damage? What about the dead and wounded?”

  The major turned to the noisy, red-faced landlord and replied, “There are no dead or wounded. The few cuts and bruises were treated by our medical teams. I’m ordering a medical team to check you also, especially your blood pressure and heart rate. Here is a voucher for all necessary repairs.

  “You may hire any workers needed for the repairs. The damage is limited to broken windows and plaster, I believe. You will itemize all costs, number of workers, the hours worked, rate of pay, their names and addresses. Don’t forget receipts for all repairs. I will station two women officers in plain clothes to remain in the hotel. They will help you manage all issues related to this incident.”

  The landlord replied, “Well, that’s fine, but how long do I have to entertain the Russian army and why do they send women?”

  The major laughed replying, “The Russian army sends women soldiers because we are trained to be more observant than men. Women soldiers are not easily distracted or compromised as are men. Women soldiers would not tolerate a single Pakistan border incursion. We would teach the invaders a lesson they would never forget. I guarantee there would be no second incursion.

  “The two Russian officers will monitor the progress of the repairs and remain at the hotel until the repairs are completed. Let them share a first-floor room, which you may also include on the repair bill. They will phone my office daily, as to the progress.”

  “But they will frighten my guests,” he replied.

  “On the contrary; they will act as greeters helping your guests and you with any services needed. It’s in your interest to complete the repairs as rapidly as you can so my soldiers can move on to other duties.

  “If you delay the repairs, I will request Soviet army Mongolian engineers to speed the work. I assure you the Mongolians will do things their own way. You will not be happy with the Mongolians. This too, I can guarantee,” replied the major. i

  Lela’s telex said she had a ticket on Lufthansa non-stop to Frankfurt in two days. It was the earliest flight she could get. She had shipped 25 metal trunks to Newark airport two weeks before. The trunks were loaded with tribal kilems, clothes, jewelry and artifacts.

  After the messages were wired, Lela and Kit spoke with the major. They explained their business in Afghanistan. Lela told the major that her business was concluded and she wanted to fly back to the U.S. It was mid December 1979, and the Afghan political pot was about to boil over.

  Lela explained that her business partners were Kalq party officials. She felt anxious for her Afghan friends and business associates. She asked the major for her advice. Both Lela and Kit were visibly upset. The major provided some blunt advice.

  “You’ve heard the rumors, I presume? The Soviet Union is pulling out. We started the withdrawal a month ago. I can’t tell you exactly when we’ll be gone, but we are well along in our planned withdrawal. Since we entered at the request of the Kalq government, most of the Kalq officials will be leaving with their families.” ii

  The Kalq and the Soviets were determined to clear all foreign nationals out of Afghanistan by December, voluntarily if possible, forcibly if necessary. Special permits were issued for approved foreign business representatives. iii

  Outside the telex office, Lela overheard the officer explaining to one of her Comrades, “The only reason we have not been overrun is because Kalq and the Mujahideen leaders are negotiating a transitional government. Kalq hopes to remain in the new government, but once our military presence is gone there’s nothing to prevent the Mujahideen from ousting the Kalq. Up to this point our withdrawal has been peaceful, but I fear the worst in the final weeks.

  “The CIA is arming Mujahideen by way of Pakistan. The Brits have arranged for Chinese silk-worm hand held missiles for the Mujahideen. That is why we are losing so many helico
pters. At the same time the tribal warlords are attacking the government and they are settling old scores with each other.”

  Lela told the officer she was surprised to hear conditions had become so serious. Lela mentioned that, until the tank incident everything had seemed peaceful. Everywhere she traveled, she was well received. She did excellent business and was treated like a daughter and a sister. She saw no trouble anywhere—no hint of anything unusual. Lela wondered how she could have missed all this.

  The major answered, “I don’t doubt what you’ve experienced. But conditions are worsening rapidly. I advise that you leave the country as soon as you can. Tell your friends and business contacts the same thing. That’s all I can tell you.

  “It’s dangerous to be seen talking to us or any Russian soldiers for that matter. Get that Soviet flag out of your hotel window before we all become targets. In a short time we will no longer be able to protect ourselves, let alone visitors. You must leave as soon as possible. I wish you well, comrades.”

  Walking back to the hotel, the major explained, “Kit and I are well acquainted, but I’m curious about your background, Lela. You appear to be a progressive minded person. May I ask your political affiliation, if any?”

  Lela replied, “My husband and I are progressives and internationalists. As students in 1960, we were invited to tour Revolutionary Cuba at the time of the first “July 26” anniversary celebration. That was the Year of Education.

  “We’ve supported the Cuban Revolution ever since our visit. We often talked about joining the Party, but we lack the temperament to accept Party discipline. This is a weakness we have learned to accept and work with.”

  The major responded, “Lela, I appreciate your honesty. We can only do what we are capable of. The important thing is to be realistic about our strengths and weaknesses. There are millions of progressives throughout the world. Most have no formal party affiliations. But they do the best they can, supporting progressive ideals and objectives.”