Beyond NJ 9842

by Nitin A Gokhale

  With Army Aviation pilots and other officers at the Base Camp

  The Thoise Airfield: Life line for Siachen

  Prodded and cajoled by the publishers, I gradually began looking at the subject more closely. By October 2013, the Army came around and allowed me to visit the Siachen base camp, and meet up with those posted there. As I warmed up to the subject, and started tapping those who had formerly served on the glacier, the trickle of information became a torrent.

  When word spread about my attempt to chronicle the Siachen saga—and saga it is, unparalleled for the bravery, commitment and sacrifice of Indian soldiers—many soldiers and air warriors who had left service got in touch to share their stories. Many officers from the Army, the Air Force and the Army Medical Corps volunteered information, personal anecdotes and unreservedly shared their fears and triumphs; everyone went out of his way to rummage through forgotten albums to dig out old, frayed photographs, and details of their stay on what is easily the most inhospitable battlefield. Everyone spared valuable time to sit down and allow me to record conversations. It was as if all Siachen veterans I could reach out to, were undergoing a catharsis, unburdening themselves and unlocking their long suppressed memories.

  On the way to Turtuk: With my wife Neha

  Sifting through the material, it became clear to me what the book should not be: a dry, officious Sitrep (Situation Report) about a military operation. Instead, we decided to concentrate on the human element: the tragedies, the comradeship, the commitment and sheer bravery of soldiers on Siachen.

  This book is not a definitive history of Operation Meghdoot. But, it certainly is a slice of history seen through the eyes of those who had the opportunity to serve at Siachen. I have no pretensions of being a military analyst either. I am a journalist who has had the privilege of being trusted by officers and men in the Indian military, a trust I value far more than anything else in my profession.

  Beyond NJ 9842: The Siachen Saga is a product of collective efforts, bolstered by contributions from many, but the ultimate responsibility lies with me. Several friends, colleagues, senior military officers and diplomats have given me their time and insights, but had it not been the constant companionship of my wife Neha, I wouldn’t have been able to write this book in less than six months. She cheerfully put up with my irritating habit of waking up at 4 am and working on the computer in our bedroom; my consistent refusal to give her adequate time because the deadline loomed, and my general lack of participation in family matters. She even braved the hardship of visiting the Siachen base camp with me. Each time I finish a book—this is my fourth—I promise her that I will not work on short deadlines. Hopefully, I will be able to keep my word next time I take up a project. Both our boys, Harsh and Utkarsh, in their twenties, on the other hand, are like my News Editors in my early years in journalism, constantly asking uncomfortable questions: “How far are you from finishing the manuscript? Why is it taking such a long time?” Their frank inputs and Neha’s detached and constructive criticism continues to keep me rooted.

  Many others have helped create this book. All those who can be named have been quoted in the succeeding pages. Those who can’t be, are no less valuable. I remain indebted to them. I am also grateful to former Chief of the Army Staff, Gen VP Malik for writing the Foreword and putting Siachen in a strategic context.

  A three-decade long operation like Operation Meghdoot will have many untold stories; I have tried to capture as many as possible, but the list can never be complete. That is my failing. But read it for whatever it is worth.

  It will force you to stand up and just say “Salute.”

  March 2014

  New Delhi

  Nitin A. Gokhale

  The War Memorial at the Base Camp

  With one of the Commanding Officers at Siachen Base Camp

  I

  Waking Up To Siachen

  ‘Apne mian ko mat jaane do Col Kumar ke saath!’

  Had it not been for a German expedition wishing to go rafting on the Indus River in North-west India’s Ladakh region in 1975, this book would not have been written!

  Thanks to that expedition, Col Narinder ‘Bull’ Kumar, India’s most famous military mountaineer got possession of maps that indicated ‘cartographic aggression’ by Pakistan on the Siachen glacier and the quiet alteration to the map of the Karakoram Range of mountains!

  One discovery led to another, resulting in India pre-empting a Pakistani military operation by launching its own in April 1984, triggering a standoff at Siachen, inarguably the world’s highest battlefield.

  Col. ‘Bull’ Kumar at his home in 2013 (left) and in his younger days

  But I am getting ahead of the story.

  In September 2013, as I sat down to have a chat with the legendary Col Kumar in his South Delhi apartment and switched on the voice recorder, the renowned mountaineer first asked me if I had ample time. Without waiting for my answer, he said “I am going to tell you a longggg story about how we stumbled upon the Pakistani plan to occupy Siachen.”

  I had plenty of time.

  The story, according to Col Kumar, really begins in 1975.

  In those days, Shiekh Abdullah was Chief Minister of Jammu and Kashmir and Col Kumar was on deputation to the National Ski School at Gulmarg, the famous tourist spot. ‘One day, Sheikh saab sent for me.’ Apparently, two Germans wanted to go rafting down the Indus river which they called the world’s fifth largest. It had not been done before and they wanted to be the first team to achieve that feat. So Sheikh Saab told them, ‘if anyone can help you in this it is Col. Kumar!’ Somehow he had tremendous faith in me.

  Mustafa Kamal, Sheikh Abdullah’s other, not-so-famous-son, used to be based in Tanmarg. He told Col Kumar to urgently go and meet Sheikh Abdullah. As Col Kumar reached Srinagar and was ushered in to meet Sheikh Abdullah, the Chief Minister introduced him to the Germans and said, “Please help them in their project.”

  As the expedition took shape, Col Kumar was made the leader of the team. The rafting was to begin from Chumathang in south eastern Ladakh, not very far from Demchok where the Indus crosses over into India from Tibet. Permissions took time. Normally, in those days, as now, any presence of foreigners in Ladakh had to be first cleared by the Army, and then the Home Department of the state government which formally issued the ‘inner line permit.’ In this case, the Sheikh Saab directly ordered the permit to be issued without clearance from the Army!

  The expedition, first known rafting effort on the Indus, went through without a hitch. “It took us five days to raft down from Chumathang to Khalsi (just before the Indus makes its way into Pakistan),” Col Kumar told me showing the newspaper clippings of that time. The headlines varied from a predictable “Indo-German team tames the Indus” to a spicier “Spying down river Indus.”

  But Col Kumar was not aware that some trouble awaited him after the expedition was over. India was under Emergency at that point in time, and any involvement with foreigners was not viewed too kindly by the Army. And sure enough ‘Bull’ Kumar was pulled up by a Brigadier who later went on to become the Corps Commander at Srinagar, for having by-passed the Army and gone ahead with the rafting expedition without permission. But the Sheikh knew Mrs Indira Gandhi. He directly spoke to the Prime Minister and got Col Kumar off the hook!

  As his stint at the National Ski School came to an end, Col Kumar reverted to the Army and went on to climb the Kanchenjunga besides a number of smaller peaks. By now it was late 1977. After successfully climbing Kanchenjunga, then Army Chief Gen TN Raina sent for Col Kumar. It helped that both belonged to the Kumaon Regiment. As a reward for his exploits, “Bull” Kumar was made Commandant of the High Altitude Warfare School (HAWS), located at Gulmarg and Sonmarg just short of the Zojila Pass that connects the Kashmir Valley to Ladakh.

  As luck would have it, completely out of the blue, the same German group that had rafted down the Indus under Col. Kumar’s leadership, came back to Kashmir and now wanted to attempt rafting down t
he Nubra river that drained out from the Siachen glacier. No one had done rafting on the Nubra before. The Germans brought with them some American maps. As Col Kumar sat down to plan yet another expedition, his eyes kept straying to the Eastern Karakoram and particularly the area between (map grid reference) NJ 9842 and Karakoram Pass.

  “Those maps, to my surprise, had shown the ceasefire line (line of control—LoC now) being extended to the Karakoram Pass,” Col Kumar reminisced. “I instantly realised there was something wrong,” the veteran mountaineer told me and took me back to 1961.

  “A year before the 1962 war, I had frost bite from a mountaineering expedition and was therefore put in hospital and later attached to the intelligence department so that I could continue to get medical treatment. That is the time I did a lot of staff work, read maps and helped in drafting and reading Sitreps (Situation Reports). I knew the area and its map backwards. The ceasefire line which is now called the Line of Control or LoC had ended at (map grid reference) NJ 9842. So when I saw the American maps in late 1977 with the line extended to the Karakoram Pass (north-east of NJ 9842), instead of going northwards along the natural ridgeline, alarm bells went off in my head. All the old training of reading maps and retaining information here (pointing to his head) instantly came back. I made a mental note of the line and completed the expedition quietly,” the veteran soldier recalled.

  Why did the map upset Col Kumar? He says the alignment shown on the American map beyond NJ 9842 meant Pakistan was laying claim to new areas and the Siachen glacier.

  Col Kumar does not remember if the maps with the Germans were the US Defence Mapping Agency’s operational navigational charts but Lt Gen VR Raghavan, strategic thinker and former Director General Military Operations (DGMO) of the Indian Army in his path breaking book, Siachen: Conflict without end, says the 1974 edition of the US agency’s map was the first to show an Air Defence Information Zone (ADIZ) separating India and Pakistan in the Karakoram region. “The line marking the separation was drawn straight from NJ 9842 to the Karakoram Pass, instead of following the international convention of marking boundaries along natural ridgelines. It could not have been a boundary since there cannot be a straight line boundary in the mountains. Boundaries are either formed along the watersheds of mountains, or along the rivers and the ADIZ was along neither,” Gen Raghavan wrote in 2002.

  Col Kumar with his vast experience of the mountains and his military training, was sharp enough to realise that Pakistan had redrawn the map to claim new areas. More dangerously for India, Pakistan was clearly attempting to link up with China through the Siachen glacier!

  An assessment by the Northern Command in 1984 later confirmed: “With an all-weather Karakoram highway to the west and the Aksai Chin road to the east, Ladakh is open to a pincer by these powers. Pakistani occupation of the Siachen upto the Karakoram Pass would lead to their domination of the Nubra Valley and the route down to Leh. Indian positions in Siachen as well as in the vicinity of the Karakoram Pass are thus a formidable wedge between Pakistan Occupied Kashmir(POK), the 4500 sq km area ceded by Pakistan to China and Aksai Chin occupied by China after the 1962 conflict. Pakistani occupation of the region would in a way provide a cushion to the Chinese positions already present in the area.”

  So, as the 1977 expedition was completed, Col Kumar requested the Germans to leave the maps behind. “I cajoled them, pleaded with them but they wouldn’t relent, so finally I had to pay them a substantial sum to keep the maps,” Col Kumar said. “Then I took the maps straight to (Lt) Gen (ML) Chibber. I had an old association with him. I was in the MT (Military Training) Directorate when he was writing a lot of training manuals for HAWS. So I took the liberty of going to him directly.”

  In Delhi, as DMO (Director Military Operations), Maj Gen Chibber had more pressing matters to attend to than meet Col Kumar. So he sent Kumar to one of the Deputy Director Generals in the Operations Directorate, Brig Mehta and told him, “take this young fellow, my old officer, give him a cup of tea and listen to what bulls**t he has to share,” almost dismissing Col Kumar!

  But Col Kumar was nothing if not obdurate. He persuaded Brig Mehta to dig out all the old treaties from the time of Maharaja Ranjit Singh onwards, through the East India Company right up to the 1972 Shimla Agreement between Indira Gandhi and Zulfikar Ali Bhutto that converted the old ceasefire line into the LoC. After long deliberations, Brig Mehta saw Col Kumar’s point about the new alignment shown on the American map and its dangerous implications.

  “Brig Mehta was totally satisfied that I was right. He took me back to the DMO and asked him if we could take two minutes of his time,” Col Kumar recalls. Brig Mehta then told the DMO that the line on the map was wrong and had security implications for India’s defence in Ladakh. As the DMO took a second look at the American map, he was aghast. “Badi halchal machi, DMO ke office mein (there was a sense of disquiet),” Col Kumar still recalls that scene in the DMO’s office.

  “Looking at the map” Gen Chibber said, ‘aare Pakistan is occupying 10,000 sq km of land on their own and we know nothing!’ This line was drawn in 1963. We were in 1978. For 15 years we knew nothing!”

  After the initial shock, Gen Chibber asked Col Kumar: “What can you do for us?” “I said we will take an expedition there.” That is how we launched the first expedition in 1978. As Gen Chibber recounted in an article after his retirement, “The matter (of increasing Pakistani forays into Siachen and the wrong depiction on some American maps) had to be handled with despatch and circumspection. I walked into the office of the Army Chief Gen TN Raina and explained the problem to him. By calling it an operational patrol it was possible to provide logistics support to Kumar. If he were to undertake a mountaineering expedition without official backing, it would cost somewhere in the region of Rs 8-10 lakhs. For example, if the party needed 100 high altitude porters, at a cost of Rs 50 per porter (this was the rate in 1978) per day, then the cost of porterage for about 60 days would amount to Rs 3 lakhs. The cost of special food, medical cover, insurance, air evacuation of casualties, air dropping of supplies, special clothing and equipment, all would add up to a prohibitive amount.”

  In Delhi, Gen Chibber and Army HQ took up the matter of wrong representation on American maps with the US government through the Ministry of Defence and the Ministry of External Affairs. But nothing came of it, since the maps were printed by a commercial firm! Kumar had in the meantime returned to HAWS and prepared to take his team to Siachen.

  “Since I was the Commandant of the High Altitude Warfare School, I decided to take my own instructors and students of the advanced mountaineering course for the expedition,” Col Kumar told me in 2013.

  No officer or soldier was reluctant to join the expedition, but to Col Kumar’s utter surprise, his wife brought an input that was quite revealing. “My wife overheard a wife telling another officer’s wife “apne mian ko mat jaane do Col Kumar ke saath! Woh Pakistan bhi jaa rahe hein or China bhi!” referring to the supposedly ultra secret expedition that Col Kumar was to lead to the area, we now know as the Siachen glacier! “So much for our security,” Col Kumar looks back and has a hearty laugh.

  So off they went on a reconnaissance patrol in the guise of a civilian expedition!

  As the expedition arrived on the glacier via Khardung La, Pullu, Khalsar, Sasoma and started showing Indian flags and presence up to Teram Kangri, which is half way up the Siachen glacier, Pakistani planes and helicopters came overhead and photographed the mountaineers. Apart from the memories of the climb, Col Kumar distinctly remembers that between Leh (then HQ of the 3 Infantry Division) and Partapur (the sector HQ) there were precisely three unarmed Ladakh Scouts soldiers basically keeping count of mules and convoys going to Daulat Beg Oldie or DBO!

  Today, 35 years later, the defence of Ladakh is looked after by a full-fledged Corps. Beyond Khardung La (supposedly the world’s highest motorable pass) by an independent brigade with six battalions under it (6,000 soldiers) is deployed to keep India’s borders
secure.

  To return to Col Kumar’s early forays into unexplored areas.

  After completing the expedition, Col Kumar was back at HAWS. He gave a detailed report to the Army and suggested that another expedition, this time right up to the beginning of the Siachen glacier to Indira Col and Sia Kangri. Kumar also reported some “air activity” from the Pakistani side when a jet had overflown the expedition at one stage. However, that summer Kumar did not come across any Pakistani based expeditions moving in the Siachen area, but near the Bilafond La his team did find some signs of previous expeditions. They picked up some tin labels printed in Japanese. Col Kumar submitted his report and recommended establishing a post along the Saltoro ridge in the summer months to ensure the Pakistanis did not intrude onto the Siachen glacier.

  At Army HQ and in the Northern Command, this recommendation was examined in depth, but it was felt that severe weather conditions and high altitudes precluded any possibility of permanent presence on the glacier. Gen Chibber recalled later: “It was decided that in addition to expeditions that went into this area now and then, the Siachen glacier should be regularly patrolled during the summer months. It was also decided to permit foreign expeditions and give wide publicity to such expeditions and their achievements in various mountaineering journals in order to discourage Pakistan-based expeditions from surreptitiously entering into this region.”

  In fact, Col Kumar wrote a detailed account of the expedition in the Himalayan Journal in the summer of 1979-80 (http://www.himalayanclub.org/journal/teram-kangri-ii-expedition/), without giving away the fact that the expedition had a military objective in mind! The only hint that this was an Army-supported effort was in one paragraph in the article authored by Col. Kumar. He wrote: “I needed administrative support of the kind we had received on the Kanchenjunga, if not more. So I called on the Chief of the Army Staff, General O.P. Malhotra (who had taken over from Gen Raina) and unfolded my plans. I was relieved to hear: ‘Karakoram, an excellent idea.’ So the sky was the limit as far as administrative backing was concerned.” What Col Kumar doesn’t say explicitly is that the Army spent over Rs 10 lakhs on the expedition and showed it as an Operational Reconnaissance Patrol on paper to avoid any uncomfortable queries from military auditors!