Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board

by Bethany Hamilton

  They also showed us drawings of the screenplay, the storyboard. The artist was really good at capturing the action! It seemed like it would take a long time to create this—each little picture was drawn with great detail. And they were really pretty! Not just sketches or scribbles, but works of art. I remember when I was little, I did “Video Morning News Crew” at Hanalei Elementary School, and our teacher, Ms. Hermstad, made us draw play-by-play storyboards for our “broadcast.” Mine didn’t look nearly as good as these, but I remember the process. It helps you map out the sequence of action and what the camera will be capturing—every angle and what the viewer will be seeing.

  Everyone was really nice. It was great meeting all those guys and just having them come out to meet our family on Kauai, and seeing where we live. They did a lot of location scouting all over the island, trying to get an idea of the different locations where scenes in the movie took place in real life. They also watched me surf—which made me a little bit nervous ’cause then I was under pressure to perform. I didn’t want to disappoint! The best part of the day: They got to see our glorious sunset on the beach. What I like to think of as God painting his storyboard on the sky!

  December 18, 2009

  So I talked to AnnaSophia for the first time yesterday. I wasn’t really nervous for the call—I’m just not that kind of person to get nervous about those types of things. But then, when I was talking to her, I did notice I was stuttering a little, and I couldn’t think of what to say. Lot of looooong pauses! Okay—maybe I was a little uneasy. I didn’t know if we had anything in common. But she was so sweet and I really liked her instantly; I think she felt the same way. We just clicked. I think she’s gonna be a great girl for the role. She is really motivated to work hard, and she told me she’s getting ready to start training physically. She told me she’s gonna start swimming a lot and working with a trainer who will hopefully teach her a lot of balance work, so she’ll be able to balance on the surfboard. She’ll also work on leg and arm strengthening, so she’ll be able to get up with one or two arms. It’s not easy, and I know she has a long road ahead of her.

  She said she couldn’t wait to come out here and meet me and my family, to learn more about her role, who I am, and who our family is as a whole. I can’t wait to meet her in person and get to know her more. I told her she should come out to Hawaii sooner rather than later ’cause I’m leaving for a surf contest in early January. Hopefully, she’ll make it out here in late December so we can catch up for a week before I leave. I think it’s really important we have one-on-one time, because once the movie starts, she’s gonna be so busy, we won’t really be able to hang out much. So it’d be great to get to know each other before it all goes down.

  AnnaSophia told me she was on her way to a sleepover with all her cousins! It’s like an annual thing they do. We also talked about her school. She’s in tenth grade, and she goes to public school in Colorado. She said it’s a pretty small community-type town/area, the same as Hawaii or Kauai, so that was cool. We have something in common! She told me she’s never surfed, but she snowboards and she’s pretty good at swimming. I think she’ll be really confident in the water. I can’t wait to show her how I live and get her out there surfing!

  January 2, 2010

  AnnaSophia came out to Kauai to learn to surf and meet my family and me. The first time we met was a little awkward. Honestly, I was at first a little shocked: She’s really cute, but she’s also really tiny! Plus she has no tan! It’s hard for me to picture her playing me! But you can’t judge a book by its cover, right? She might look small and sweet, but I do think she has a lot of inner strength. She came with her youth leader and friend, Rachel. It was just really fun having them out. I took her to learn how to surf where I learned to surf, in Hanalei. And her very first time, she did really well. She was ripping! Getting waves! Standing up fast! She only ate it, like, twice. It was sick!

  After surfing, I took her on a hike to my favorite beach. She and Rachel just cruised on the beach with my dog, Hana, while I surfed. Hana was just rambling all over the beach. And she met a lot of people ’cause everyone knew who Hana was. So she got to meet a lot of our friends. Then we made dinner together, and just chatted about anything and everything. It was really fun. I think she’s just great, and I adore her!

  January 3, 2010

  AnnaSophia got to come to church with us at Calvary Chapel North Shore in Kilauea. It was really fun. She’s a Christian as well, so it’s cool that we can share that in common. Beyond all the movie stuff and whatever is going on, we can still just talk to each other about what we believe. And it makes us better friends. And I’m just so glad that she can be a good light and shine in the industry that she’s working in.

  After church, I introduced her to Sarah Hill, who’s one of my best friends. And she was always there for me since I was a younger girl, just to talk to and encourage me. It was kind of funny ’cause AnnaSophia brought out her friend Rachel, who’s kind of like a Sarah to AnnaSophia. And it was just fun for us all to get together and eat lunch and talk and share everything that we have in common, and everything that we don’t have in common! We talked about food, boys, activities, our faith, our families, books, and whatever popped in our minds!

  January 4, 2010

  AnnaSophia took some surfing lessons today from my coach, Russell Lewis, who is an amazing coach. He grew up in Australia, and he was one of the best surfers there in the prime of his youth. He’s been coaching me since I was eight or nine. Russell has this gift: he knows how to teach everyone from pros to complete beginners. He did a great job with AnnaSophia; he taught her about the ocean, how it works and how to be safe out there and feel comfortable. Then he got into some of the techniques, and by the second day she was already catching waves on her own and kind of turning, which is really hard for a beginner. Surfing is one of those sports that’s not easy to learn—it looks a lot easier than it is. But I think AnnaSophia is a natural! I’m proud of her!

  There was one pretty funny moment, though—funny for me, scary for her! While she and Russell were practicing, the lifeguards started yelling at this guy to come in from the ocean. Turns out the guy was just doing something reckless and the guards called him out, but AnnaSophia and Russell didn’t hear what the lifeguard said. They thought it was a shark sighting and freaked out! They paddled in as fast as they could to the beach—where I was laughing. We all ended up having a good laugh about it. Then she went back out to catch a few more.

  January 17–18, 2010

  My family and I flew to Oahu for a script reading. We’ve been waiting an eternity to see this script, and now it’s two weeks before production and we’re just getting a look? Are you kidding me! It’s been frustrating to say the least. We were all super nervous, wondering, “Is this script gonna be good? Is it gonna be real—or really Hollywood?” We met up with all the producers, directors, and writers and spent the full day listening to them read the script. We highlighted everything we didn’t like, and put a star by the things we did like. I have to say I sure highlighted a lot of stuff! Things that just didn’t sound like me, or seemed a little hokey. There was some really kooky, funny stuff. But overall we were all pretty happy with it. We went over it again and again, editing, suggesting, changing lines and scenes! Everyone was really receptive to our ideas and I felt like it was really a team effort. I was surprised how draining the day was, but mentally, you gotta stay focused. So much for glamour . . . this is what making a movie is really all about. Collaborating to make it the best picture it can be.

  January 25, 2010

  AnnaSophia and I were walking up to the head office at Turtle Bay today. We bumped into this older guy, and AnnaSophia started chatting with him. He said, “Hi, Bethany,” but he didn’t tell me his name. Obviously he knew who I was (hmmm . . . did the one arm give me away?)! And though he looked familiar, I couldn’t put my finger on who he was. Well, he ended up being my “dad” in the movie, Dennis Quaid! And it was just kind of funny ’c
ause I didn’t recognize him. But he’s super gracious and easy to talk to. We both got a laugh over it. I am just so Hawaii, not Hollywood! I don’t spend my time obsessing over famous people!

  I have to admit, today was the first day all this movie stuff felt “real.” I saw all the offices and the wardrobe room set up, and many of the actors arriving and prepping, there’s a ton of script rewrites being made based on our suggestions. All kinds of stuff going on! That’s when it really hit me and reality sunk in: “Whoa, there’s a movie being made about me and my family.”

  January 28, 2010

  Tonight we had Helen Hunt over for dinner. Helen is also a really well-known actress—she’s starred in a ton of movies and TV shows and now she’s playing my “mom” in the movie. She was super cool, easy to talk to, and I think she’s gonna be great as my mom. AnnaSophia came over too, and they got along really well—which I think is important so they can work well together. I was really hoping they’d click, because my mom and I are super close, and our relationship is so special and a key source of strength in my life. I made some pesto for the dinner (my specialty!), and they were lovin’ it! It was just nice for my mom to get to know Helen and share some stories, so Helen can get into the heart of her character. My mom is amazing; she has a unique outlook on life and is always encouraging me to be the best I can be at whatever I do. Another cool thing I found out was that Helen surfs! Kind of a surprise to me! I guess she’s been surfing for a few years now. I haven’t surfed with her yet, but I look forward to it!

  February 1, 2010

  So as I said before, my initial feelings about making the movie: stunned. Just like, “Really, a movie about me?” It seemed such a stretch—like this distant possibility. But now that it’s real, it’s actually happening, I’m starting to worry a little. Part of me is thinking, “Okay, my life’s probably gonna go crazy (or crazier) after the movie.” So “privacy” won’t really be a word in my life anymore. Which is kind of stressful, but I’m gonna have to deal with it. Again, I have to trust that God has a plan here; He knows what He’s doing. He knows what I can do. I see this movie as a good thing, a great thing for sure. But I guess all great things also come with some sacrifice? Maybe I won’t be able to just walk down a street anymore without being recognized. I asked AnnaSophia if that happens to her, and she said, “Sometimes.” But it’s part of her job, part of the price you pay. And I have to keep reminding myself why we’re doing this movie. Not to become famous, but to spread God’s message and my story. To inspire people to never give up faith.

  February 2, 2010

  It’s the opening day of shooting the movie! We’re on Oahu, where they’re going to be filming everything. We asked my really good friend Pastor Mike Stangel to come down and pray for the movie and start it off right. Just having everyone—there was like more than 100 people there—gather in prayer was incredibly powerful. It was a really special day. I had a few of my friends visiting, hanging out with me, checking out the set. I felt like I had a lot of support!

  The first scene they shot was in the local grocery store. AnnaSophia (as me!) goes in shopping with one arm. She struggles a lot, and as she drops groceries, people stare at her. The scene felt very real for me, like a slice out of my own life, because I’ve had moments in the grocery store where I get really frustrated, especially in the produce section when I’m trying to rip the bag off, open it, then put the apples in. I watched AnnaSophia do the same thing, and I could see the frustration in her face—and also the embarrassment as people watch her, pity her, whisper behind her back. It felt so real for me and it’s something I deal with all the time. People can’t help but stare I guess—with one arm, really blond hair, and given how tall I am, I guess I kind of stand out! But I get really frustrated and it gets annoying. I told this to Sean, our director, and he used a lot of my suggestions and emotions in the scene. I watched AnnaSophia in character drop the apples on the ground; I can see there are tears just about to well in her eyes, but she holds them back. She’s stronger than that; so am I.

  February 3, 2010

  The second day of shooting: Alana and Bethany go shopping and they bump into Malina—a fictional surf competitor—and kind of have a little catfight. In reality, I’m pretty good friends with all my competitors and stuff like that doesn’t really happen, but I guess it adds more drama to the story. So, yeah . . . I kind of hope some of that scene gets edited out in postproduction! I hate to come off catty!

  I went over to the video village, where they have a bunch of director’s chairs set up for the producers, actors, and of course the director. You can sit there and watch the scene being filmed on little TVs. Well, guess what? They made a chair with my name on it! That was pretty exciting and cool for me.

  February 3, 2010

  One scene in the movie that I was really skeptical about was the Alana photo shoot scene—and that’s what we were shooting today. I just wanted to make sure that the character Alana is modest and it isn’t a risqué scene. I mean, I want her to be a good role model. I want to encourage girls to like themselves as they are and not feel like they have to be a certain way—like super skinny. The photo shoot scene is a made-up scene for the story. In the story Bethany and Alana are supposed to do the shoot together, but since Bethany lost her arm, she can’t do it. But Bethany knows Alana wants to do it, so she encourages her to do it anyway. My main concern was that Alana’s character isn’t wearing a really skimpy bikini. I mean in the surfing world, people wear bikinis, I do too, and that’s just how it is. But I was encouraging the filmmakers to choose a more modest one. And they did. The scene is still not my favorite. I just hope that it doesn’t send the wrong message.

  February 9, 2010

  Today we shot the Thailand scene. They set up near an old, run-down building and property the whole area of “Thailand”; they had live animals cruising around, and Thai people. You would never know you were in Hawaii. I actually got to have a cameo! I was one of the other missionary kids in the youth group. So, watch out for me when you see the movie . . . I’ll be riding in the bus and carrying a box of soccer balls. It was pretty fun, but I actually had to wait all day long, so I was really over it. It was hot and sweaty out that day. But I’m glad I did it, and it should be funny to see myself alongside Carrie Underwood and AnnaSophia. The Thailand scene, I think, is one of the coolest scenes in the movie—it’s just so different from the rest of the movie.

  February 13, 2010

  They shot the church scene today, and I went down to watch to see if there were any tips I could throw out there. At first, I was kind of frustrated when I first started watching the scene. For me going to church is exciting; I’m happy to go and I enjoy it! But all the extras and actors in the scene looked so somber and bored—like they were at a funeral! So I got up out of my seat and went over and reminded everyone that this is church—and we’re praising the God of all creation who loves us! I explained that church is a place to express my joy for God and my family’s joy for God. They got it. In the next take, their faces were more lit up and they actually looked like they were happy to be there. Now that’s what church is about! Glad I could help out . . .

  February 25, 2010

  When it came to shooting the hospital scene, my mom and grandma came to watch with me. I think they were worried how it might make me feel. But honestly, for me it isn’t emotional to watch it being filmed. I can’t really explain why though. Maybe ’cause there are the cameras and the crew and all these people standing around, running around doing their jobs. It’s not like sitting in the theater, or real life at all. I felt kind of distant from it . . . and I was glad for that.

  February 26, 2010

  Throughout the filming of the movie there was this side group documenting the movie called the EPK (Electronic Press Kit) crew. I did a couple of interviews with them and I also got to “host” my own behind-the-scenes tour. That was pretty fun. Today, I went down when they were shooting the Turtle Bay contest. I got to interview a bun
ch of my friends who were doing stunt surfing in the water. That was fun ’cause they are like my real friends and interviewing them was kind of funny. I giggled when I was asking questions—me being serious around my friends is a tough thing! But hopefully it turns out okay!

  March 4, 2010

  When I show up on set, pretty much the first place I go to is the specialty truck with all the snacks. Then I head to the second snack tent and get a green tea. I’m pretty at home on the set now! I just roam around, saying hi to everyone. It’s fun ’cause it’s like one big family. Everyone’s just cruising around, doing what they gotta do. Both my brothers, Noah and Tim, are working on the set, and my sister-in-law Becky, too. Tim is a production assistant (PA) in the camera department. And Noah and Becky are coproducers.

  When a movie is being made about you, you obviously want your friends, family, and community to be receptive and supportive of the project. For my family, it was very important, especially considering that we live on a small island, and the surfing community is small. It was critical for us to have our real-life community as excited about the movie as possible. Plus, it helps make the story more true to life, and for me it’s a tribute to them for being a part of my life and story. And for most of us, it’s cool to see how a movie is made, so I’m glad to be able to share that experience together.

  While filming the movie, my family and I had a lot of good friends who would come and be extras for the day. Some of my best friends flew over to be extras. Extras are the people in the scene who don’t have any speaking lines. Having good family friends working on the movie, being extras in the movie, stunt surfers, etc., made the process really special for us. It was fun to see them all take part in it. We even had a really good friend, Sonya Balmores-Chung, star as the fictional character Malina in the movie. It was really cool to see Sonya in action!