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Sweets and Treats

Page 2

by Griffith Day


  2- to 3-quart heavy-bottomed nonreactive saucepan

  9-by-13-inch baking pan

  9-inch square baking pan

  8-inch square baking pan

  Two 12-cup muffin pans

  Two or more 12-by-17-inch rimmed baking sheets

  10-by-15-inch rimmed jelly-roll pan

  Utensils and Other Tools

  Candy thermometer

  Fine-mesh duster/sugar shaker

  Heat-resistant silicone spatulas

  Heat-resistant spoons

  Ice cream scoops—small (39 mm/1½ tablespoons) and large (52 mm/3 tablespoons)

  Instant-read thermometer

  Kitchen blowtorch

  Kitchen scale

  Kitchen shears

  Offset metal spatulas: small, medium, and large

  Oven mitts

  Pastry bags and tips

  Pastry cutter/blender

  Plastic dough scraper

  Silicone baking mats (Silpats)

  Silicone-bristle pastry brush

  Stainless steel bench scraper

  Straight spatulas: small, medium, and large

  Timer

  Wire cooling racks

  Wire whisks

  A Well-Stocked Spice Rack

  Every baker should have a range of spices. It’s the easiest way to add flavor to your recipes, and you can play with combinations to make recipes unique to you. Keep spices in a cool, dark cupboard and date each bottle when you purchase it. Most spices will lose their potency and flavor after a while. Ground spices will keep for up to 1 year; whole spices will last for several years.

  Allspice

  Cardamom

  Cinnamon (ground and sticks)

  Cloves (ground)

  Cream of tartar

  Fine sea salt (see Tip)

  Flaky sea salt, such as Jacobsen or Maldon

  Ginger (ground)

  Mace

  Nutmeg (ground and whole)

  Tip: At the bakery, we use only fine sea salt (sel de mer) and fleur de sel, a more coarsely ground finishing salt from France. We like the good flavor they add to both sweet and savory dishes. However, you can substitute table salt in any of the recipes that call for fine sea salt, using the same measurement.

  BARS & BROWNIES

  Cheryl’s Brownies

  Makes 12 large or 24 small brownies

  This brownie is loaded with the good stuff: pure chocolate, crunchy walnuts, and espresso—need I say more? Some brownie purists say there shouldn’t be any baking powder in a brownie, but we use a little bit to give it some lift. This is a moist, cakey brownie.

  ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour

  1 ½ teaspoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free

  1 ½ cups semisweet chocolate chips

  6 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped

  ½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into cubes

  3 extra-large eggs

  1 ½ teaspoons espresso powder

  1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

  1¼ cups sugar

  1 cup chopped walnuts

  Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch baking pan and line with parchment, allowing the ends of the paper to hang over two opposite edges of the pan.

  In a small bowl, whisk the flour and baking powder together; set aside.

  Put 1 cup of the chocolate chips, the unsweetened chocolate, and the butter in a large heatproof bowl, set it over a pot of barely simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water), and stir frequently until the chocolate and butter are melted and smooth. Remove from the heat.

  Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, espresso powder, vanilla, and sugar together until thoroughly combined.

  Add the egg mixture to the chocolate mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle the flour mixture over the chocolate and mix it until combined. Stir in the walnuts and the remaining semisweet chocolate chips, mixing until just combined.

  Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a spatula. Tap the pan firmly on the counter to remove any air bubbles from the batter. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Let the brownies cool completely on a wire rack.

  Cut the brownies into squares and enjoy. They will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

  Creole Brownies

  Makes 12 large or 24 small brownies

  For the people who fall into the “fudgy” camp when it comes to brownie devotion, this one leads that category with a serious ganache topping infused with chicory coffee. The cocoa nibs give the brownie a crunchy yet tender texture.

  For the Brownies

  ½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into cubes

  8 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped

  2 ½ cups sugar

  ½ teaspoon fine sea salt

  2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

  4 large eggs

  1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

  ¼ cup cocoa nibs (see Tip)

  For the Ganache

  1 cup heavy cream

  8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into cubes

  ⅓ cup sugar

  ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

  16 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

  ¼ cup hot freshly brewed New Orleans–style chicory coffee or strong regular coffee

  1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

  Fleur de sel for sprinkling (optional)

  Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch baking pan and line with parchment, allowing the ends of the paper to hang over two opposite edges of the pan.

  To make the brownies: Set a large heatproof bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water), add the butter and chocolate, and stir frequently until melted and smooth.

  Remove the bowl from the heat, add the sugar, salt, and vanilla, and stir until completely combined. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the flour and stir until the batter is smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the cocoa nibs.

  Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 20 to 22 minutes. When the brownies are done, a slight crack will have formed around the edges. Remove the pan from the oven and let the brownies cool completely on a wire rack.

  To make the ganache: Combine the cream, butter, sugar, and salt in a large heatproof bowl, set it over a saucepan of barely simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water), and stir until the butter is melted. Add the chocolate and stir until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is completely smooth.

  Remove the bowl from the heat, add the coffee and vanilla, and stir until smooth. The ganache will thicken as it cools.

  To finish the brownies: Invert the brownies onto a baking sheet and remove the parchment. Pour the thickened ganache over the brownies, spreading it evenly with a spatula or a butter knife into a thick layer on top. Let the brownies stand until the ganache is completely set and sprinkle with fleur de sel if desired.

  Cut the brownies into squares. They will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

  Tip: Cocoa nibs are seeds of the cocoa plant that are fermented, roasted, and then cracked and separated from the husks, leaving a crunchy texture and a subtle chocolate flavor. They make a great substitute for roasted nuts or chocolate chips in baked goods.

  Star Brownies

  Makes 16 brownies

  These rich, melt-in-your-mouth chocolate brownies have been a favorite at the bakery from day one. Back in the day, we hand-mixed the batter, and I always had to count the strokes to ma
ke sure it was properly mixed. These days, we make the batter in a stand mixer, but here I give you the counting-strokes method. It’s a little tedious, but it’s the most reliable method I know, and it makes for a fantastic brownie.

  ½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into cubes

  ½ pound unsweetened chocolate, preferably Scharffen Berger 99% cacao, chopped

  2 ½ cups granulated sugar

  1 ½ teaspoons fine sea salt

  1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

  4 large eggs, at room temperature

  1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

  Confectioners’ sugar for dusting (optional)

  Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly spray a 9-inch square baking pan with nonstick spray. Line with parchment, leaving an overhang on two opposite sides of the pan.

  Set a medium heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water (make sure the bowl does not touch the water), add the butter and chocolate, and stir frequently until melted and smooth.

  Remove the bowl from the heat, add the sugar, salt, and vanilla, and stir with a wooden spoon until thoroughly combined. Add one egg and beat it in, counting 100 strokes. Add the remaining eggs one at a time, counting 100 strokes after each one. It’s an arm workout, but it wasn’t so bad, right?

  Add the flour and fold it into the batter until just combined.

  Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 to 55 minutes, until a slight crack has formed around the edges. Place the pan on a wire rack and let the brownies cool completely.

  Using the parchment “handles,” remove the brownies from the pan. Remove the parchment and cut the brownies into 16 squares. You can decorate the top with confectioners’ sugar, if you’d like. I use a stencil of a star, of course.

  The brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.

  I like to refrigerate the brownies, which makes them extra chewy and fudgy—yum.

  Ginger Cake Squares with Fresh Whipped Cream

  Serves 6 or 8

  This recipe has been passed down in my family for at least four generations. My great-grandmother was famous for the homemade ginger cake squares she sold at her general store. This simple recipe is the one she used. We make this at Christmastime, but I crave ginger cake all year long.

  ½ cup sugar

  8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

  1 cup blackstrap molasses

  1 large egg

  2 ½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

  1 ½ teaspoons baking soda

  ½ teaspoon fine sea salt

  1 tablespoon ground ginger

  1 ½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

  ½ teaspoon ground cloves

  ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

  ½ teaspoon ground allspice

  1 cup boiling water

  ¼ cup candied ginger, finely chopped

  1 recipe Fresh Whipped Cream (recipe follows)

  Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter an 8-inch square baking pan. Line the bottom with parchment and butter it as well. Lightly dust the pan with flour, tapping the pan on the counter to shake out any excess.

  In a medium bowl, whisk the sugar, butter, molasses, and egg together; set aside.

  Sift together the flour, baking soda, and salt into a medium mixing bowl. Whisk in the ginger, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and allspice. Stir the dry ingredients into the molasses-egg mixture, then add the boiling water, whisking until well blended. Fold in the candied ginger.

  Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then remove from the pan and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely while you make the whipped cream.

  Cut the ginger cake into 6 or 8 squares and serve warm with the whipped cream.

  The cake is even better the next day. The squares can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

  Fresh Whipped Cream

  Makes about 3 cups

  2 cups heavy cream

  ¼ cup confectioners’ sugar

  Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), whip the cream on medium speed until it starts to thicken. Add the confectioners’ sugar and beat until the cream holds nice soft peaks. Use the whipped cream immediately.

  Drunk Blondies

  Makes 12 large or 24 small bars

  In the bakery, we give funny little names to all our treats. The customers are as amused by them as we are. Case in point: One day a priest from the neighborhood came into the bakery. He studied the cases, then came up to the counter and said, rather sheepishly, “Can I have a Drunk Blondie and a Hazel Feelgood?”

  2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

  1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free

  ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

  ½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted

  2 cups packed light brown sugar

  2 large eggs, at room temperature

  2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

  2 tablespoons bourbon

  ¼ cup chopped pecans

  ½ cup sweetened flaked coconut, toasted (see Tip)

  ¼ cup mini semisweet chocolate chips

  Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking pan and line with parchment, allowing the ends of the paper to hang over two opposite edges of the pan.

  In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt together; set aside.

  Put the butter and brown sugar in a large mixing bowl and stir with a spoon until smooth. Add the eggs, vanilla, and bourbon, and mix until thoroughly combined. Stir in the flour mixture, followed by the pecans, coconut, and chocolate chips.

  Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a spatula. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the top is golden brown. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool completely on a wire rack.

  Cut the blondies into bars. They will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

  Tip: The easiest way to toast coconut is in the oven. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the coconut in a baking pan and bake for 5 to 8 minutes, tossing every couple of minutes with a heat-resistant spoon to ensure even browning. Keep a close eye on the coconut, because it can burn easily.

  PB&J Bars

  Makes 12 large or 24 small bars

  Who doesn’t love a peanut butter and jelly sandwich? So many of us remember our mom packing them into our lunch box. These bars are a delicious treat for school events or parties—kids and grown-ups alike love them.

  For the Bars

  3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

  1 ½ teaspoons baking soda

  1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free

  ½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

  1 cup granulated sugar

  1 cup packed light brown sugar

  1 cup creamy peanut butter

  2 large eggs

  One 12-ounce jar strawberry jam, or your favorite flavor

  For the Glaze

  2 cups confectioners’ sugar

  2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

  1 tablespoon hot water, or as needed

  Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking pan and line with parchment, allowing the ends of the paper to hang over two opposite edges of the pan.

  To make the bars: In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking soda, and baking powder together. Set aside.


  In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large mixing bowl, using a handheld mixer), cream the butter, both sugars, and peanut butter on medium speed until smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Turn the speed down to low and add the flour mixture, mixing until just combined. The dough will resemble cookie dough.

  Press two-thirds of the dough evenly over the bottom of the prepared pan. Spread the jam evenly over the dough. Distribute small dollops of the remaining dough evenly over the jam.

  Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until golden brown. The edges will be firm and the center should be set. Remove the bars from the oven and let cool to room temperature on a wire rack.

  To make the glaze: Mix the confectioners’ sugar, vanilla, and hot water together in a medium bowl until smooth. Add more water if necessary to reach the consistency of a glaze.

  Drizzle the bars with the glaze, then cut into squares.

  The squares will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

  Pumpkin Crunch Bars

  Makes 12 large or 24 small bars

  This alternative to traditional pumpkin pie is silky smooth and warmed with spices and features a shortbread cookie crust. These bars are by far our best seller during the holidays, especially at Thanksgiving. I always have to chuckle, though, when someone asks for them in the middle of the summer.

  For the Crust

  ½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter

  ½ cup sugar

  1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

  ½ teaspoon fine sea salt

  2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

  For the Filling

  One 8-ounce package cream cheese, at room temperature

  One 15-ounce can pumpkin puree

  8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

  1 ½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract

  One 1-pound box (4 cups) confectioners’ sugar

  ½ teaspoon ground mace

  1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

  1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

  3 large eggs

  1 recipe Fresh Whipped Cream, for topping (optional; see here)

 

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