Travelers' Tales India
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Coomaraswamy, Ananda K. and The Sister Nivedita. Myths of the Hindus & Buddhists. New York: Dover Publications Inc., 1967.
Crossette, Barbara. India: Facing the Twenty-First Century. Indianapolis: Indiana University Press, 1993.
Crossette, Barbara. The Great Hill Stations of Asia. New York: Basic Books, 1999.
Dalrymple, William. City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi. New York: Penguin USA, 2003.
Dalrymple, William.The Age of Kali: Indian Travels and Encounters. Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet Publications, 2000.
Darian, Steven. A Ganges of the Mind: A Journey on the River of Dreams. Delhi: Ratna Sagar P. Ltd., 1988.
Dew, Josie. The Wind in My Wheels: Travel Tales from the Saddle. London: Trafalgar Square, 2000.
Eck, Diana L. Banaras: City of Light. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1982.
Frater, Alexander. Chasing the Monsoon. New York: Henry Holt, 1992.
Goodwin, Jason. A Time for Tea: Travels Through China and India in Search of Tea. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1990; The Gunpowder Gardens. London: Chatto & Windus, Ltd.
Greenwald, Jeff. Shopping for Buddhas. Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet, 1996.
Harris, Marvin. The Sacred Cow and the Abominable Pig. New York: Touchstone, 1987.
Harvey, Andrew. A Journey in Ladakh. New York: Houghton Mifflin, 2000.
Harvey, Andrew. Hidden Journey: A Spiritual Awakening. New York: Henry Holt & Company, Inc., 1991.
Holt, Peter. In Clive’s Footsteps. London: Hutchinson, Random Century Ltd., 1990.
Iyer, Pico. Living Faiths:Windows Into the Sacred Life of India. San Francisco: Harper SanFrancisco, 2004.
Jaffrey, Madhur. A Taste of India. New York: John Wiley & Sons, 1988.
Kirchner, Bharti. The Healthy Cuisine of India: Recipes from the Bengal Region. Los Angeles: Lowell House, 1994.
Kripalani, Krishna. All Men Are Brothers: Autobiographical Reflections. New York: Continuum Publishing Company, 1990.
Lewis, Norman. A Goddess in the Stones: Travels in India. New York: Henry Holt and Company, London: Jonathan Cape Ltd., 1993.
MacDonald, Sarah. Holy Cow: An Indian Adventure. New York: Broadway, 2004.
Mehta, Gita. Karma Cola: Marketing the Mystic East. New York: Vintage Books, 1994.
Mehta,Ved. Rajiv Gandhi and Rama’s Kingdom. Connecticut: Yale University Press, 1995.
Moorhouse, Geoffrey. OM: An Indian Pilgrimage. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1994.
Morris, Mary, and Larry O’Connor. Maiden Voyages: Writings of Women Travelers. New York:Vintage Departures, 1993.
Naipaul, Shiva. An Unfinished Journey. New York:Viking Penguin, 1986.
Naipaul,V. S. An Area of Darkness. New York:Vintage Books, 2002.
Naipaul,V. S. India: A Million Mutinies Now. New York: Penguin Books USA, Inc., 1990. London: Random House U.K., 1997.
Newby, Eric. Slowly Down the Ganges. Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet, 1998.
Newby, Eric. What the Traveller Saw. New York: HarperCollins Publishers, Inc., 1993.
Norberg-Hodge, Helena. Ancient Futures: Learning from Ladakh. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1992.
Nugent, Rory. The Search for the Pink-Headed Duck: A Journey into the Himalayas and Down the Brahmaputra. New York: Houghton Mifflin Company, 1991.
Palling, Bruce. India: A Literary Companion. London: John Murray Publishers, Ltd., 1992.
Patnaik, Naveen. The Garden of Life: An Introduction to India’s Healing Plants. New York: Aquarian Press, 1999.
Rowell, Galen. Galen Rowell’s Vision: The Art of Adventure Photography. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1995.
Rushby, Kevin. Chasing the Mountain of Light: Across India on the Trail of the Koh-I-Nor Diamond. New York: Palgrave MacMillan, 2001.
Rushdie, Salman. Imaginary Homelands: Essays & Criticism, 1981-1991. London: Granta Books, New York:Viking Penguin Books, USA, 1992.
Satprem. Sri Aurobindo or The Adventure of Consciousness. Pondicherry, India: Institute for Evolutionary Research, Ltd., 1993.
Sen, Mala. India’s Bandit Queen: The True Story of Phoolan Devi. Guilford, Conn.: The Lyons Press, 2003.
Shand, Mark. Travels on My Elephant. Woodstock, New York: The Overlook Press, 1998.
Snyder, Gary. Passage through India. San Francisco: Grey Fox Press, 1983.
Tully, Mark. The Defeat of a Congressman and Other Parables of Modern India. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc. No Full Stops in India. London: Penguin Books Ltd., 1991.
Ward, Geoffrey C., and Diane Ward. Tiger-Wallahs: Encounters with the Men Who Tried to Save the Greatest of the Great Cats. London, New York: Oxford University Press, 2002.
Yapp, Peter. The Travellers’ Dictionary of Quotations: Who Said What, About Where? London: Routledge & Keagan Paul plc., 1983.
Yeadon, David. The Back of Beyond: Travels to the Wild Places of the Earth. New York: HarperCollins Publishers, Inc., 1992.
Zepatos, Thalia. A Journey of One’s Own: Uncommon Advice for the Independent Woman Traveler. Oregon: The Eighth Mountain Press, 1992.
Glossary
ayah nanny
baksheesh a tip, offering, or bribe
bidi cheap Indian cigarette, made of rolled tobacco leaf and held togther with thread
burfi sweet dessert or snack food, made from milk
chaat hot, spicy snack food, usually served with afternoon tea
chador Muslim women’s veil, head covering
chai tea
chapati unleavened bread, disc-shaped
charpoy rope-strung bed
dacoit bandit
dahi yogurt
dak government guest house
dal/dhal lentils, cooked in a variety of ways
dhaba roadside restaurant or snack bar
dhoti male garment; traditional loin wrap
dosa crepe-like South Indian dish stuffed with vegetables
firang/farang foreigner
ghat flight of steps leading to a river; landing place
ghee clarified butter
gunda hired thug
howdah seat carried by an elephant, usually canopied
jullay greeting
lakh one hundred thousand
lassi creamy yoghurt drink
ludoo sticky Indian treat
lungi male garment; cloth that is wrapped around the hips, sarong-style, to form an ankle-length skirt
mahout elephant trainer and keeper
masala spicy
mela festival, fair
muezzin Muslim prayer leader
mullah greeting, usually said with palms pressed together
naan/nan type of bread
namaaz Muslim prayers, traditionally offered five times per day
pakora Indian savory fritter
papadums wafers generally made out of split peas and seasoned
puja Hindu prayers, or festival
purna religious merit, earned after visiting a sacred Hindu place
raga classical Indian musical piece
rimpoche/rinpoche title given to spiritual masters, literally meaning “precious one”
rishi Hindu holy person, ascetic
roti unleavened bread
sadhu Hindu holy man
samosa curried puff pastry triangle
sanyasin Hindu mendicant or ascetic
satyagraha “truth force,” nonviolence
stupa Buddhist shrine
tika/tikka caste mark worn by Hindu women on their forehead
vindaloo spicy Goan meat dish, usually cooked in vinegar
wallah word affixed to a noun to denote a doer, worker, agent (occupational connection)
zamindar landlord/warlord
Index
Aberdeen
Agra
Allahabad
Amber Palace
Amritsar
Andaman Islands
Anjuna
Assam
Ayurvedic medicine
Babaji
Banaras
Bangalore
Batala
Bharat Mata Temple
Bhateri
Bijolia
Birganj
Bjarat Kala Bhawan Museum
Black Pagoda
Bodh Gaya
Bombay
Brahmaputra
British Raj
Calcutta
caste system
Chiriya Tapu
cremation
cricket
cuisine
cycling
Dal Lake
Darjeeling
Delhi
Durga Puja
Eden Gardens
Ernakulum Junction
festival
Fontainhas
Gandak River
Ganges
Ghazi-ud-Din Medresse
Goa
Golden Temple
Grand Trunk Road
Great Indian Desert
Gumri
Gunupur
Haathi Bazaar
Haldwani
Hall of Victory
Hampi Bazaar
Havelock Island
Hazarama Temple
heli-skiing
Himachal Pradesh
Himalayas
Hinduism
Holi
Hooghly River
Howrah Bridge
Indus
Jaipur
Jaisalmer
Jami Masjid
Jari
Jodhpur
Jorhat
Kalitas
Kanchipuram
Kargil
Karnataka
Kashmir
Kaziranga
Kaziranga National Park
Kerala
Khajuraho
King’s Palace
Konarak
Kulu Valley
Kumartuli
Kumbh Mela
Ladakh
Lake Pichola
Lamayuru
Leh
Lotus Mahal
Lutolim
Madras
Mahabaleshwar
Mahabalipuram
Mahabodhi Temple
Malana
Manali
Mangalore
Mehrangarh
Mulbek
Mussoorie
Mysore
Nagarhole National Park
New Delhi
Orissa
Panaji
Phalodi
Port Blair
Potasing
Punjab
Purandara Dasara Mandapa
Pushkar
Queen’s Bath
Rabindranagar
Rabindranath Tagore
Rajasthan
Rann of Kutch
Ranthambhore Wildlife Reserve
Rizong
Satyajit Ray
Sawai Madhopur
Shah Jahan
Simla
Sindnur
Siraj-ud-daula
skiing
Sonepur
Sonepur Mela
Srinagar
Taj Mahal
Tamil Nadu
Taptapani
Temple of Vishwanath
Tulsi Manas Temple
Udaipur
Uttar Pradesh
Varanasi
Vashisht
Viceregal Lodge
Vijayanagar
Virupaksha Temple
Vittala Temple
wildlife
Zoji La Pass
Index of Contributors
Adilakshmi
Aiken, Peter
Allen, Charles
Anderson, John Ward
Antrobus, Mark
Bagla, Pallava
Barr, Cameron
Bentley, Cheryl
Blank, Jonah
Bond, Marybeth
Brata, Sasthi
Brown, F. Yeats
Buckley, Michael
Carroll, Jon
Chaudhuri, Nirad.
Churchill, Sir Winston
Clark, Kathleen
Coll, Steve
Coomaraswamy, Ananda K.
Crossette, Barbara
Crowther, Geoff
Dalrymple, William
Darian, Steven
Dasgupta, Dr. S. N.
de Montalembert, Hugues
Desai, Anita
Dever, Maud
Dew, Josie
Eberhardt, Karen
Eck, Diana.
Finlay, Hugh
Frater, Alexander
Gandhi, Mahatma
Gandhi, Mohandas
Gargan, Edward A.
Ghose, Sri Aurobindo
Goodwin, Jason
Greenwald, Jeff
Haag, Jan
Habegger, Larry
Harris, Marvin
Harvey, Andrew
Hillard, Darla
Hollick, Julian Crandall
Holt, Peter
Jaffrey, Madhur
Keener, Jim
Khadka, Rajendra
Kirchner, Bharti
Knecht, G. Bruce
Kusy, Frank
Landers, Jim
Levy, Carol
Lewis, Norman
Lindberg, Peter Jon
Malyon, Tim
McCoy, Bridget
McGirk, Tim
Mehta, Gita
Mitchell, Emily
Moorhouse, Geoffrey
Morris, Mary
Naipaul,V. S.
Newby, Eric
Norberg-Hodge, Helena
Nugent, Rory
O’Reilly, James
Orr, Mary
Palling, Bruce
Patnaik, Naveen
Prasad, Aruna Har
Rosen, Fredda
Rosenthal, A. M.
Rovina, Nesta
Rowell, Galen
Ruark, Robert
Rushdie, Salmon
Satprem
Sen, Mala
Shand, Mark
Shelton, Peter
Simon, Joel
Sister Nivedita
Snyder, Gary
Steward, Jerrold
Streshinsky, Shirley
Sutherland, Michael
Thomas, Bryn
Thuksey, Rinpoche
Tully, Mark
Udesky, Laurie
Unterman, Patricia
Ward, Diane
Ward, Geoffrey
Weber, Annapurna
Webster, Betty Ann
Wheeler, Tony
Weir, Willie
Weller, Anthony
Yapp, Peter
Yeadon, David
Yogerst, Joseph R.
Yohay, Jo
Zabinski, Jan
Zepatos, Thalia
Acknowledgments
Special thanks to Raj Khadka, who did the basic research for this book. Heartfelt thanks also to Wenda Brewster O’Reilly, Andrea, Noelle, and Mariele O’Reilly, Paula McCabe, and Susan Brady. Thanks also to Katrina Morris, Joel Simon, Robbie Barnett, Pallava Bagla, Ullas Karanth, Paul O’Leary, Scott Doggett, Sean O’Reilly, George Hart and Robert Goldman at the University of California, Berkeley, Gautam Vajracharya at the University of Wisconsin, Madison, and to the families of those who must endure our company throughout the book process. Finally, a special thank you to all the storytellers whose words are this book. May Ganesh and Vishnu protect you in your travels.
“First Tango in Ladakh” by Hugues de Montalembert originally appeared in the December 1991 issue of Condé Nast Traveler as “Missing Nothing.” Reprinted by permission of the author. Copyright © 1991 by Hugues de Montalembert.
“A Bath for Fifteen Million People,” “Love Has Teeth,” and “The Mirage of Life” by David Yeadon excerpted from The Back of Beyond: Travels to the Wild Places of the Earth by David Yeadon. Copyright © 1991 by David Yeadon. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers, Inc.
“Monument of Love” and “Caretakers of the Dead” by Jonah Blank excerpted from Arrow of the Blue-Skinned God: Retracing the Ramayana t
hrough India by Jonah Blank. Copyright © 1992 by Jonah Blank. Reprinted by permission of Houghton Mifflin Company. All rights reserved.
“Chai! Chai! Chai!” by Jerrold Steward reprinted by permission of the author. Copyright © 1994 by Jerrold Steward.
“A Sufi Spring,” “Breaking the Fast,” and “Beyond Turkman Gate” by William Dalrymple excerpted from City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi by William Dalrymple. Copyright © 1993 by William Hamilton-Dalrymple. Used with permission of HarperCollins Publishers (UK) Ltd.
“Predator” by Pallava Bagla originally appeared in the March 1994 issue of BBC Wildlife. Reprinted by permission of the author. Copyright © 1994 by Pallava Bagla.
“The Calcutta Fowl Market” and “Down the Brahmaputra” by Rory Nugent excerpted from The Search for the Pink-Headed Duck: A Journey into the Himalayas and Down the Brahmaputra by Rory Nugent. Copyright © 1991 by Rory Nugent. Reprinted by permission of Houghton Mifflin Company. All rights reserved.
“Food for Body and Spirit” by Madhur Jaffrey excerpted from A Taste of India by Madhur Jaffrey (Atheneum, 1985). Reprinted by permission of Elaine Markson Literary Agency, Inc. and the author. Copyright © 1985 by Madhur Jaffrey.
“The Boxer from Calcutta” by Peter Aiken reprinted by permission of the author. Copyright © 1994 by Peter Aiken.
“A Wedding in Mahabaleshwar,” “A Vision of Vijayanagar,” and “Sick under the Bo Tree” by Jan Haag reprinted by permission of the author. Copyright © 1994 by Jan Haag.
“God and Chocolate” by Andrew Harvey excerpted from Hidden Journey: A Spiritual Awakening by Andrew Harvey. Copyright © 1991 by Andrew Harvey. Reprinted by permission of Henry Holt & Company, Inc.