Super Cheap Japan

by Matthew Baxter

  Discount pass: Minato Mirai Line One Day Pass

  The best way to get to and around Yokohama. Minato Mirai Line One Day Pass allows visitors to use the Minato Mirai Line an unlimited amount of times in Yokohama, plus use of a return ticket from Shibuya in Tokyo on the Tokyu Line if required. If you don’t want to walk around all day (distances can be large here) and want to save time by using the trains, this is a great pass. If you really love walking a lot, you could just walk around Yokohama with a map from the tourist information center in the station. Buy it from the Tokyu ticket offices. From Tokyo: Adults 840 yen, Children 420 yen. From Yokohama station: Adults 460 yen, Children 230 yen

  A little bit of history

  Way back in 1859, Yokohama was a small village of 600 when it opened its first port. The city from then on started to blossom as a modern trading post, in particular in the export of Japanese tea and silk. The Great Kanto Earthquake destroyed much of Yokohama in 1923, but it was not long before the city returned to its former glory. Devastation to the city came again in World War Two and the city was initially slow to redevelop. Thankfully Japan’s economic boom came along in the 80s and 90s, triggering rapid growth and leading to a very modern, clean city.

  Things to do

  Minato Mirai 21 District

  The following are all near Minato Mirai station on the Minato Mirai Line:

  Cupnoodles Museum (カップヌードルミュージアム)

  A strange but wonderful museum. From the first chicken noodles, to the hundreds of current variations, this museum is all about instant noodles and their inventor, Momofuku Ando. There is also a world noodle food court, strange noodle-based art and a noodle kitchen to make your own custom noodles. A real ‘only in Japan’ experience, and fun for all the family. Adults 500 yen, Children FREE • 10am-6pm (closed New Year holidays and Tuesdays. When Tuesday is a holiday, closed the following day) • Google Maps

  Yokohama Cosmo World (コスモワールド)

  Much cheaper, and more nostalgic, than going to Disney World. Visitors can buy individual ride tickets to keep costs down at this compact theme park, with a water ride, roller coaster, Ferris wheel and game arcades. FREE entry (rides 300-700 yen) • Weekdays 11am-9pm, weekends 11am-10pm (closed Thursdays) • Google Maps

  Yokohama Red Brick Warehouses (横浜赤レンガ倉庫)

  Back in the 1920s, these mega brick warehouses were the Customs Inspection House for boats coming into the harbor. It has since been converted into a hip area for families and tourists. Best for budget travelers are the frequent festivals, usually on weekends, such as October Beer Fest in autumn, ice skating in the winter and free concerts in the summer. FREE • 10am-7pm • Google Maps

  Yokohama Museum of Art (横浜美術館)

  A wide, but manageable collection of art. The main sections have late 19th century works from artists such as Milo, Picasso and Dali, while others feature artists with ties to Yokohama. Features excellent English explanations and children's workshops, plus occasionally has free access days. Adults 500 yen, high school children and above 300 yen, elementary and under 100 yen • 10am-6pm (closed New Year holidays and Thursdays if not holiday) • Google Maps • http://yokohama.art.museum/eng/index.html

  Yokohama Landmark Tower (ランドマークタワー)

  Get a view 273 meters above Yokohama, after enjoying a 750 meters per minute elevator. Not essential, but most travelers head up on clear days as the tower also provides stunning views over to Tokyo. Adults 1000 yen, children 200-800 yen • 10am-9pm • Google Maps

  Yamashita

  Head to Nihon-Odori station on the Minato Mirai Line to visit Yokohama’s famous port area:

  Yamashita Park (山下公園)

  Yokohama’s main park and a good spot to start your adventures. In the summer there are usually events here every week.

  Osanbashi Yokohama International Passenger Terminal (大さん橋)

  Very funky design for this ultramodern passenger terminal. Made of strips of wood, the winding structure is very unique piece of abstract architecture. Well worth a relaxing stroll, especially with a beer at night, watching over the city lights.

  Chinatown (中華街)

  Japan’s biggest Chinatown, dwarfing most others. As you walk around, there will be more than a few sellers offering free samples of Chinese snacks or drinks, but maybe not as many bargains as you may be expecting. Budget travelers should completely avoid going to the restaurants on the main street as they have a bad reputation for charging tourist prices, but some of the side streets can be more reasonable.

  Motomachi (元町)

  A nice area featuring lots of registered historical buildings, parks and churches. Feels like a mix between Japan and Europe. Some of the buildings charge a small fee for entrance, but there are plenty of free options, so no need to pay unless you are particularly into the history and architecture of Yokohama. There are more than a dozen such buildings and sites to see, but here are the best spots to check out:

  Ehrisman Residence

  Finished in 1926 as the residence of Fritz Ehrismann, a prominent exporter and importer of sought-after products like silk. His vast wealth allowed him to commission Antonin Raymond to design the building, who was considered to be a master of modern architecture at the time. FREE • 9:30am-5pm (6pm in summer) (closed New Year holidays) • Google Maps

  Yokohama Foreign General Cemetery

  Often closed, but have a look to see if it’s open when you are there. Back when Commodore Perry came to Japan in 1854 with several warships to force the country to open up to trade, one of his marines perished. This cemetery was therefore formed as a burial ground for Americans, and other foreigners after this incident. FREE • Noon-4pm (normally closed, but open on weekends and holidays Mar - Dec) • Google Maps

  Berrick Hall

  The local residence of British trading merchant B.R. Berrick, this building was constructed in 1930. It later served as the dormitory for an international school, but since 2000 has been open to the general public. Once you get here, you will soon realize why it is such an in-demand wedding venue, with its picturesque grounds and classic interior. FREE • 9:30am-5pm (6pm in summer) (closed New Year holidays) • Google Maps

  Bluff No. 234

  Prettily lit up in the evening, this building dates back to 1927, when it was an apartment for the new foreigners entering via Yokohama Bay. Detailed panels help to enlighten guests about the history of the area. There are also some other free ‘Bluffs’ around the area. FREE • 9:30am-5pm (6pm in summer) (closed New Year holidays) • Google Maps

  Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum

  We sure did stuff ourselves here. Calling itself a “ramen amusement park”, this museum is a fantastic way to try various types of Japanese noodles. Portions can be small, but the usually lower prices should allow you to try out a few, including giving the crazier, and spicier, varieties a try. Nine ramen shops inside. Adults 300 yen, children 100 yen, under 6 FREE • 11am-11pm • Just north of Shin-Yokohama station • Google Maps

  Volunteer guides and tours

  Kanagawa Good Will Guide Club - http://www.ksgg.org/index.html

  Offers a guided tour along Yokohama waterfront, so includes all the highlights. Try to book more than two weeks in advance.

  Budget food

  Yokohama is quite spread out, so if you do come across somewhere cheap, and it’s around time to eat, grab the chance and head inside. Having said that, there is a high concentration of convenience stores here.

  Yokohama World Porters

  There are a few cheap spots in Yokohama World Porters shopping mall, opposite the Cup Noodle Museum in Minato Mirai (Google Maps):

  Saizeriya (サイゼリヤ) - Light Italian dishes, such as a small pizza or pasta dish. Pizzas from 390 yen, pasta from 399 yen • 10am-11pm

  Ofukuya Ramen (大ふく屋) - Classic ramen, lots of varieties to choose from. Ramen from 780 yen • 11am-10:30pm

 
Steak Mountain (鉄板ステーキチャーハン) - Steaks on fried rice. Plates from 790 yen • 10:30am-9pm

  Landmark Tower

  There is a large selection in Landmark Tower, as well as in the connected Queen's Square. Most are quite expensive, but there are a few good options for budget travelers:

  Tsukemen Tetsu (つけめん TETSU) - Famous dipping noodles shop, with some super tasty soup. Meals from 780 yen • 11am-11pm

  Vie De France (ヴィ・ド・フランス) - Reasonably cheap bakery and cafe, which often cuts prices in the evening. Breads from 150 yen • 7:30am-9pm

  Soup Stock Tokyo (スープ ストック トーキョー) - Great if you need a light meal. Fresh new soups every day. Sets from around 800 yen • 8am-10pm

  Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)

  If you in Yokohama station, the best is Tokyu Store (東急ストア) on the north side of the building (10am-10pm). Near Chinatown, outside Motomachi-Chukagai station is Maruetsu Petit (マルエツ プチ), a large 24-hour supermarket (opposite exit 2). There are also numerous small supermarkets around.

  Water bottle refill spots

  Yamashita Koen has some water fountains, as does Motomachi Koen (元町公園) in the Motomachi area and the park on the coast in Minato Mirai.

  Shopping

  100 yen shops

  Daiso (ダイソー) - Inside ‘Mark Is’ shopping mall (マークイズみなとみらい), next to Minato Mirai station (10am-8pm). There is also one outside Yokohama station, west exit, opposite Yodobashi Camera, plus on Chukagai Odori (main street in Chinatown).

  Seria (セリア) - In World Portal (ワールドポーターズ), the shopping mall opposite Cosmo World in Minato Mirai. 10:30am-9pm

  Pharmacy (ドラッグ ストア)

  Matsumoto Kiyoshi (マツモトキヨシ) has a store inside Yokohama station (10am-10pm).

  Recommended cheap accommodation

  Hostels and guest houses

  Hayashi Kaikan (Yokohama Hostel Village)

  Probably the cheapest place to stay in Yokohama. Hardly the Ritz, but you can’t argue with these prices! Not totally central, but a short walk from all the action. Dorms from 2400 yen • Google Maps • http://yokohama.hostelvillage.com/en/

  Hostel Zen

  Another well-known hostel, which is smaller than others and seems to have a nice, friendly atmosphere. Various plans and rooms types available. Dorms from 2800 yen • Google Maps

  Capsule hotels and overnight spas

  Sky Spa Yokohama

  Quite a selection of baths they have here! Modern, centrally located and with clean capsules to sleep in. Overnight passes from 4700 yen • In Marui City, to east side of Yokohama station • Google Maps

  Spa & Capsule Hotel Grand Park-Inn Yokohama

  More of a standard capsule hotel than the others, so prices are a little lower, though there are some spa facilities. In a slightly seedy area, but not in any way too much so. Capsules from 3500 yen • West side of Yokohama station, near subway exit 9. Walk to right, then take first right after a bit, then left and down • Google Maps

  Manyo Club (横浜みなとみらい 万葉倶楽部)

  Super fun, or relaxing, way to spend your evening, night and morning. Large variety of baths, including outside ones overlooking Tokyo Bay, game arcades, stone relaxation rooms and more. Overnighters can catch 40 winks in the lazyboy chairs, or in the tatami rooms. Overnight passes from 4500 yen • Google Maps • http://www.manyo.co.jp/mm21/eng/

  Internet cafes (ネットカフェ)

  The biggest collection of net cafes is on the west side of Yokohama station. It’s fun to have a look around, but go to these safe bets if you are new to net cafes:

  Manbo (マンボー)

  Free showers, comics and drinks. They also have other branches nearby, so ask if they are full. Five hours (5時間パック) from 1250 yen, 480 yen for additional hours • Bit tricky to get to, so use wifi in Yokohama station. Near subway exit 9 • Google Maps

  Hanatato (花太郎)

  Some amazing deals, especially on weekdays. Showers included, plus the usual free drinks. You can leave and come back on night packages. 13 hours night package (ナイトパック) from 2100 yen • Also tricky to get to, so use wifi in Yokohama station. Near subway exit 9 • Google Maps

  How to get there and away

  If on the west wide of Tokyo, it’s usually cheapest to go via Shibuya. From Shibuya station, take the Tokyu Toyoko Line to Yokohama station (30 mins, 200 yen or covered with the Minato Mirai Line One Day Pass). From Tokyo station on the east side of Tokyo, take the JR Tokaido Line to Yokohama station (30 mins, 470 yen).

  Tourist information (観光案内所)

  Inside Yokohama station’s central passage (9am-7pm), Shin-Yokohama station for the Shinkansen (9am-9pm) and Sakuragicho station (9am-6pm).

  Nikko (日光)

  Toshogu Shrine, Nikko

  Probably the most impressive side trip from Tokyo, Nikko is one of Japan’s many UNESCO World Heritage sites. It’s a town full of temples, shrines, waterfall and lakes. The World Heritage area includes two shrines and a temple, but there are lots of other cheap touristy things to do as well. There are also a few non-traditional, crazy experiences, such as the Edo inspired theme park and a miniatures theme park. Excellent English language signage and maps.

  Discount passes: Tobu Nikko Passes

  From Asakusa in Tokyo, Tobu Railways has three kinds of passes. They are an obvious pick for budget travelers, as there is not much else in the area apart from the locations on the passes, and everything can be comfortably done in the time allowed. You can buy them at the Tobu Sightseeing Service Center in Tobu Asakusa station. The passes include unlimited use of buses (and trains if applicable) to the main spots. Because some of the areas in Nikko are quite spaced out, you will need to use the bus at least a few times. You will almost certainly save money.

  Discounts included

  20% off limited express tickets (only saves 30 mins or so, so not essential), 5% off at some shops in Asakusa, 10% off for purchases over 1000 yen at some shops in Nikko and discounts to over a dozen tourist spots in Nikko. Look for the logos in the pass for where you can get money off.

  Nikko City Area Pass

  The 2 Day Nikko Pass is the best way to visit Nikko and Kinugawa Onsen for most budget travelers. The two days provide plenty of time to see all the main shrines and temples in this UNESCO World Heritage site area. It includes a round ticket from Tokyo. Adults 2670 yen, children 1340 yen

  Nikko All Area Pass

  4 days are included on this pass, as well as expanded use of the bus network beyond the main tourist spots, including to the onsen towns in the north. April-November: Adults 4520 yen, children 2280 yen. December-March: Adults 4150 yen, children 2070 yen

  Theme Park and Nikko City Area Pass

  Similar to the Nikko City Pass, but includes tickets to one or both of the main theme parks, and use of the bus route between them. Tobu World Square + Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura: Adults 8010 yen, children 4010 yen. Tobu World Square: 4710 yen, children 2360 yen. Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura: Adults 6610 yen, children 3310 yen

  Things to do

  Toshogu Shrine (日光東照宮)

  The most well-known World Heritage shrine in Nikko, and recently renovated. It enshrines the first Shogun of the Edo Shogunate, Tokugawa Ieyasu. This temple complex leads into the forested mountain, and will blow you away with its stunning buildings and national treasures (8 national treasures and 34 important cultural properties in total). Head up the stone stairs at the back for a cool walk up to another shrine up the small mountain. Adults 800, children 600 yen • 8am-5pm (8am-4pm in the winter) • ‘Nishi-sando’ bus stop • Google Maps

  Shinkyo Bridge (神橋)

  Beautiful wooden Japanese red bridge, at the entrance to the Nikko mountains. The myth goes that when a head priest, named Shodo Shonin, was not able to cross the Daiyagawa River he was helped by the
gods. Two snakes appeared and constructed the bridge so he could cross. FREE • ‘Shinkyo’ bus stop, then follow signs. Walkable from nearby shrines • Google Maps

  Rinno-ji Temple (日光山輪王寺)

  A large temple surrounded by huge trees, this is one of the largest wooden structures in the area. Founded more than 1000 years ago, the complex features a grand hall with statues of various gods, a treasure house exhibiting statues of Buddha and other important cultural properties. Also as a Japanese garden called Shoyoen. Adults 1000 yen, children 600 yen • 8am-5pm (8am-4pm in the winter) • ‘Nishi-sando’ bus stop • Google Maps

  Futarasan Temple (二荒山神社)

  A quiet temple within the forests of Nikko, and a site for followers to worship nearby Mount Futarasan. It’s famous for offering good luck to those who pray in the forest-enclosed complex, for important life changes such as pregnancy or marriage. A soon as you arrive you will realize why Nikko is a World Heritage site. 200 yen • 8am-5pm (8am-4pm in the winter) • ‘Nishi-sando’ bus stop, or walk from Shinkyo bridge • Google Maps

  Taiyuin Temple (大猷院)

  A big complex of temple buildings in the forested mountains, this is the mausoleum of Tokugawa Iemitsu. It was constructed to face Toshogu Shrine, but in a subtle way, so as to not overshadow it. The main hall and front shrines are registered as national treasures, but explore around as there are some excellent examples of ancient craftsmanship in the various structures. 550 yen • 8am-6pm • ‘Nishi-sando’ bus stop, or walk from Shinkyo bridge • Google Maps

  Kegon Waterfall (華厳の滝)

  A tall waterfall not far from the center of Nikko, and the most popular. The water from Lake Chuzenji falls almost 100 meters, and the viewing platforms give a good view from below. Great any time of the year. 550 yen • 8am-5pm (9am-4:30pm in the winter) • ‘Chuzenji-onsen’ bus stop • Google Maps

  Lake Chuzenji (中禅寺湖)

  Created more than 20,000 years ago when Mount Nantai erupted. This 11.62 km squared lake was once surrounded by foreign embassies and estates in the Meiji period, so was known for its beauty for many years before tourists arrived. Have a walk around the lake and take some great photos to take home. FREE • ‘Tachikikannon-iriguchi’ bus stop or short walk from Kegon Waterfall • Google Maps