Ryuzu Waterfall (竜頭ノ滝)
On the north-west of Lake Chuzenji is this nice waterfall and park, a quieter spot than Kegon Waterfall. If you have time, walk up to Lake Yunoko and Yudaki Falls. FREE • ‘Akanuma’ bus stop • Google Maps
Tobu World Square (東武ワールドスクウェア)
A lighthearted, and up-to-date outdoor museum with miniature reproductions of more than 100 famous buildings and structures from across the world. Appropriately for Nikko, it includes 45 World Heritage sites at a 1/25 scale. 2800 yen (see website to check for 500 yen discount coupon), FREE with Theme Park and Nikko City Area Pass • 8am-5pm (8am-4pm in the winter) • Get bus from Kinugawa-onsen station, near to Nikko • Google Maps • https://www.tobuws.co.jp/en/
Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura (日光江戸村)
Experience the old city of Edo (former name of Tokyo), at this faithful, but fun reproduction. The houses, downtown area and ninja village are great if you need a break away from all the temples. Also interesting to see the ‘locals’ walking around, doing their daily tasks and jobs. One Day Pass: adults 4700 yen, children 2400 yen. Afternoon Pass (from 2pm, or 1pm in winter): adults 4100 yen, children 2100 yen (see website to check for 10% discount coupon), FREE with Theme Park and Nikko City Area Pass • 9am-5pm (9:30am-4pm in the winter) • Get bus from Kinugawa-onsen station, nearby Nikko • Google Maps • http://edowonderland.net/en/
Hike for free
There are plenty of hikes that start from near the town center or are a short distance from a bus stop, but there are a few real highlights. More routes can be found in the tourist information centers, where free hiking and walking maps are available.
Mount Nakimushi
Famous mountain, which can be accessed just south of the train stations. Small waterfalls, pristine forest and the religious ornaments along the way make it an enjoyable hike. Difficulty: Medium • Hike time: 4-5 hours
Lake Chuzenji
A variety of routes are available, but the South-Bank Course (starting from near Kegon Waterfall) is a nice balance of lake and hills. Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 4-5 hours
Lake Yunoko
This smaller lake is a perfect quick and easy hike, which offers views of Yudaki Falls and the nearby Onsen Shrine. Access from Yudaki Falls bus stop. Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 1 hour
Volunteer guides and tours
Utsunomiya SGG Club - http://www016.upp.so-net.ne.jp/usgg/
Provides guides for Nikko from the nearby city of Utsunomiya. This does mean you have to pay for them to come to Nikko, but it’s still a good deal if you want an in-depth experience. Apply at least two weeks in advance.
Budget food
Few budget chain restaurants in the area, presumably to keep the place more authentic. Head north up Nihon Romantic Highway from the Nikko station for a selection of restaurants, but they are quite spaced out. There are some classic tonkatsu (deep fried cutlet) and ramen joints up here, but good prices may be hard (and time consuming) to find. If you are stuck around the station, head to the supermarket for a large choice of cheap takeouts and microwavable items.
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
Lion Dor (リオン・ドール) is five-minute walk from Tobu Nikko station. Head out and then walk down the road with the post office on the right (9am-9pm). There are also a small number of convenience stores around.
Water bottle refill spots
Bring a large bottle of water from your hostel/hotel, just in case you can’t or don’t go to a restaurant with some way to refill.
Shopping
100 yen shops
meets (ミーツ) - Down the river to the north side of the station. 9am-9pm
Pharmacy (ドラッグ ストア)
Welcia (ウエルシア) - From the JR Nikko station, head down the road to the left of Nikko Station Hotel Classic, then take a left at the second traffic lights and walk a few minutes. 9am-9pm
Recommended cheap accommodation
Hostels and guest houses
Minsyuku Rindo-no-ie
Very cheap hostel with Japanese tatami floors and friendly customer service. Also has a large bath. Dorms from 3500 • Google Maps • http://outdoor.geocities.jp/rindoutyan/
Nikko Suginamiki Youth Hostel
Great if you are a Youth Hostel member, this place is also good for small groups. Dorms from 3360 yen • Google Maps • http://www.jyh.or.jp/e/i.php?jyhno=2208
Nikko Guesthouse Sumica
Traditional rooms with Japanese tatami mats and a really friendly atmosphere. Right next to the station, yet still some of the cheapest rates. Dorms from 2800 • Google Maps • http://nikko-guesthouse.com/en_index.html
Campsites
Nikko has a few campsites a short drive from the station, or a 15-minute walk in the case of Nikko Daiyagawa Park. None currently have English booking available, so ask someone at a tourist information center or prior accommodation to call, if you want to check availability before going. Prices are from around 2000 yen per tent site.
New Kirifuri Campsite (ニュー霧降キャンプ場) - 0288-53-4728 • http://www.kirifuri-camp.com/
Nikko Daiyagawa Park (日光だいや川公園オートキャンプ場) - 0288-23-0201 • https://www.park-tochigi.com/daiyagawa/
Manakanomori (まなかの森 キャンプ) - 0288-21-7748 • http://www.nikko-manakanomori.com/index.html
Getting around
All the Tobu Nikko passes include use of buses to the main spots. In addition to this, there are many walking routes around the town if you would prefer to get away from the crowds. These are clearly posted on the maps around town, or you can get a free hiking and walking map from the information center.
How to get there and away
From Asakusa station in Tokyo, take a Tobu Line Rapid train (2 hours) to Nikko. Free with the passes, or 2700 yen.
Tourist information (観光案内所)
In JR Nikko station (8am-5:30pm) and Tobu Nikko station (8:30-5pm), as well as 10 minutes up Nihon Romantic Highway from the stations (9am-5pm).
Mount Fuji (富士山)
Japan’s most iconic mountain, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, should be on the top of most travelers’ plans for a trip to the land of the rising sun. The highest mountain in Japan at 3,776 meters, its grand size straddles over various prefectures. It is also one of Japan’s “Three Holy Mountains” and has been the site of pilgrimage to Japanese people for centuries. In Shinto mythology, the god Kuninotokotachi is believed to reside at the top. For us mere mortals, the view from the top of Mount Fuji has to be seen to be believed. While it can get very busy, this will probably be your most memorable experience in Japan and it’s surprisingly cheap to visit. Just be sure to bring a warm coat for the chilly summit!
Yoshida Trail
Most budget travelers should take this, as getting there is cheapest. While it can be steep and challenging, even to the fairly fit, it’s a great reward to get to the views at the top. Difficulty: Medium • Hike time: 9-10 hours return • Hiking season: Around July 1 to Sept 1
When to come
The best time to arrive is in the evening. If you start heading up by 9-10pm, by the time you get to the top you should have perfect timing to watch the spectacular sunrise. It’s truly one of the most amazing sights you will ever see. Plus walking up overnight saves on having to book a room somewhere. Another tip is to come on the weekdays and outside holidays, to avoid large families with children.
Budget food
While there are some souvenir shops and restaurants around the bus stop, the prices are not so good and choice is limited for food to actually take up. Surprisingly, there are some noodle stalls up the mountain, but prices are really high and these stalls should be avoided unless you are starving. Go to a supermarket the night before and get yourself plenty of drinks and food for the long hike.
Water bottle refill spots
There are no free water fountains
as you head up, and the price of drinks (yes, there is a vending machine at the top!) get very expensive, to the point that prices for drinks are about four times what they normally are at the shop on the summit.
Pharmacy (ドラッグ ストア)
The shops at the base have some basics, but bring any essential medicine.
Free wifi locations
There is free wifi at the information center. Wifi has also been put into huts and stalls as you progress up the mountain, and there is even wifi on the summit. Ask at the tourist information center for passwords.
Recommended cheap accommodation
There are several mountain huts on the way up, all of which charge to stay. Prices are rather high for a basic hut experience, but if you feel 8-10 hours walking all in one go is too much for you, they are worth it. Fujisan Mountain Guides can also provide a booking service in English (1000 yen), if you are having trouble finding a bed.
These two have English websites, but try to reserve as soon as possible to hold your spot. Reservations are usually taken from April.
Kamaiwa-kan (鎌岩館)
Brand new, stylish building about halfway up, so a perfect spot to have a sleep before continuing up. Can also provide basic food like curry or burgers. Bed from 5800 yen with no meals on weekdays, 8400 yen on weekends (with two meals) • 7th station • Google Maps • http://kamaiwakan.jpn.org/
Haku-un-so (白雲荘)
Very near to the summit, this hut will break your journey in half. With more than 300 beds, this place can get packed, but the prices are pretty good for the location. Food can also be provided, and there is a small shop if you have forgotten anything. Bed from 5800 yen with no meals • Just before summit • Google Maps • http://fujisan-hakuun.com/en/reservation/
How to get there and away
From Tokyo, the cheapest and fastest way is to get a highway bus from Shinjuku Bus Terminal in Shinjuku, with Keio Bus (operated May through October). You must reserve in advance at the terminal or on the Keio Bus website. The tickets cost 2700 yen (discounts may be given if you book more than a month ahead, children half price). From Kawaguchiko station in Fuji Five Lakes, Keio Bus also run regular services (2100 yen for round trip, children half price). You could use this bus if traveling on a JR Tokyo Wide Pass or national Japan Rail Pass.
Tourist information (観光案内所)
At the other end of the shopping square from the bus stop (May 1 - Oct 31, 9am-4:30pm, until 8pm July 1 - Sept 11).
Hakone (箱根)
Tokyo’s most popular side trip. There is something for everyone here, from hiking to shopping to volcano viewing and hot springs. The town is part of Fuji Hakone Izu National Park, which offers stunning views of Mount Fuji. In addition to this there are lots of standout features such as Owakudani, an eerie volcanic area with lots of yellow fumes, Lake Ashi with its pirate sightseeing boat tour and the Hakone Tozan Train which heads up the mountain. What makes Hakone stand out for budget travelers is the Hakone Free Pass, which offers unlimited transportation in the area and loads of discounts. It really makes Hakone an easy place to get around. Maps and signs are all in English as well, so no chance of getting lost hiking!
Discount pass: Hakone Free Pass
The Hakone Free Pass from Odakyu Railway is the best and cheapest way to visit Hakone. It provides unlimited use of the cable car, ropeway, tourist boats, trains and buses in the area, plus the ride from Shinjuku station and back. It also provides discounts or free access to around 50 places in Hakone. Some things in Hakone, especially the ropeway, can get super expensive if you don’t have the pass, so it’s usually a must buy for budget travelers. You can buy it at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center in Shinjuku station or at Odakyu ticket machines nearby. Two Day Pass: Adults 5140 yen, Children 1500 yen. Three Day Pass: Adults 5640 yen, Children 1750 yen.
A little bit of history
At the start of the Edo period, Hakone became a post station on the Tokaido Highway connecting Edo (the old Tokyo) with Kyoto. It became an important checkpoint on the route, which visitors can see a recreation of at the Hakone Sekisho and Checkpoint. Under the strict Tokugawa Shogunate, everyone coming in or leaving was checked and their items inspected by officials. The aim was to restrict the travel of weapons and of women. After the Meiji Restoration, Hakone slowly grew into a fully-fledged town and the Imperial household established a summer villa here, close to the lake. Visitors can also visit this.
Things to do
Owakudani (大涌谷)
A must-see in Hakone, get off at Owakudani station on the ropeway and try some ‘kuro-tamago’ (black eggs). They have been boiled in the hot spring water, so have black shells! Watch the yellowy volcanic gases blow out of the ground and the fresh hot spring water spew out over the mountain. FREE • 8:30am-5pm • Owakudani station on ropeway • Google Maps
Hakone Shrine (箱根神社)
A stunning Shinto shrine complex, starting from a red gate standing in Lake Ashi, running up into the mountain. Apparently founded in 757, the original shrine was said to reside at the summit of Mount Komagatake. It became important for samurai, who would come to pray for luck in their various endeavors. FREE • 24h • Google Maps
Hakone Detached Palace Garden (恩賜箱根公園)
The old Imperial family summer house and gardens are now free for you to roam around and take photos of. Walking up into the park gives visitors amazing views over the lake and of Mount Fuji. FREE • 9am-4:30pm • Onshi-Koen-mae bus stop (route H) • Google Maps
Hakone Sekisho and Checkpoint (箱根関所)
An authentic recreation of the old trading checkpoint and surrounding village. The people who built this utilized old carpentry and masonry techniques from the Edo period, to make sure everything looks as authentic as possible. FREE • 9am-5pm • Hakone Sekisho-ato bus stop (route H) • Google Maps
Sightseeing cruise on Lake Ashi (箱根海賊船)
A rather silly, but amusing way to get across the lake. This 18th century-style ship has been taken over by pirates, like a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean. Especially fun for anyone who likes pirate movies, but a supremely scenic mode of transportation for others! FREE with Hakone Free Pass or 1000 yen one-way • Togendai, Hakonemachi-ko and Motohakone-ko
Hakone Open Air Museum (箱根彫刻の森美術館)
A host of very imaginative and thought-provoking statues, sculptures and pieces of architecture, set in a lush, modern garden. The highlight, though, has to be the Picasso gallery, quite a rare collection outside Europe. 1600 yen (1400 yen with the Hakone Free Pass) • 9am-5pm • Chokokunomori station on Hakone Tozan Line • Google Maps
Hakone Gora Park (箱根強羅公園)
Handily located next to a convenience store if you need some more supplies, this park has a western-inspired design. A good place to unwind and have a snack before continuing up the hill. 550 yen (free with the Hakone Free Pass) • 9am-5pm • Koenshimo station on cable car • Google Maps
Hiking in Hakone
Around Komagatake and Hakone (駒ヶ岳+箱根山)
There are a few hiking courses around Mount Komagatake and Mount Hakone, which are the main mountains for tourists in Hakone. Note that due to seismic activity, routes can be closed off, so check with the tourism information centers when you get there and ask for their recommended routes. Hiking around Komagatake is an easy to access route, that takes visitors away from all the crowds and tour buses, and into a bit of nature with a closer look at some of the past volcanic activity. Difficulty: Medium • Hike time: 2-6 hours, depending on route • Owakudani (ropeway) or Sounzan station (cable car)
Old Tokaido Highway Hike
An old trading route through the forest to an ancient tea house, this is an uphill but enjoyable hike. Location well signposted from boat port and around, plus buses to take you back after. Difficulty: Medium • Hike time: 2-3 hours • Moto-Hakone bus stop (routes K, H, Y)
Cedar Tree Walk
<
br /> A nice walk through an ancient cedar avenue, recommended for families or those that want a gentle walk, with no big inclines. Difficulty: Easy • Walk time: Under 1 hour • Between the Hakone Sekisho and Hakone Detached Palace Garden on the main road. After exiting the carpark of Hakone Detached Palace Garden, take a left and walk down a bit. Entrance is on the right side.
Recommended hot springs (温泉)
Tenzan Onsen (天山湯治郷 ひがな湯治 天山)
Inside a nice hotel, this hot spring has a traditional feel but all the facilities you would expect in a modern spa. Adults 1300 yen, children 650 yen • 9am-11pm (reception closes at 10pm) • Hakone Tozan (K) bus to Okuyumoto-Iriguchi bus stop. You will see two roads heading off, take the winding road on the left (heading over the river) • Google Maps
Yunessun (箱根小涌園 ユネッサン)
Not your average hot spring! This rather odd place features baths full of wine, sake or occasionally soda drinks to relax in. A good choice if you have already done an old-fashioned hot spring and want to try something a little crazy. Adults 2900 yen, children 1600 yen • 9am-7pm • Short walk from Kowakidani station on Hakone Tozan Line • Google Maps
Hotel Green Plaza (ホテルグリーンプラザ箱根)
Up in the mountains, with open-air baths that offer great views of Mount Fuji and the national park. Your skin will feel lovely and smooth due to the water’s rich sodium bicarbonate content. 1600 yen • 3pm-midnight (Fri-Tue), 3pm-midnight (Wed, Thu) • Ubako station on ropeway • Google Maps
Volunteer guides and tours
Odawara and Hakone Goodwill Guide Club - http://www.ohsgg.com/
Provides volunteer guide services in Hakone and the Odawara area, in English and other foreign languages.
Super Cheap Japan Page 11