Budget food
Eating out is often pricey here and most affordable accommodation comes with a shared kitchen, so most budget travelers should head to a convenience store near Yumoto-Hakone station. Otherwise there are a few reasonably-priced family restaurants near the station, but these do tend to close early. Remember it’s legal to drink outside in Japan, so grab a beer from the convenience store and chill out on the river!
Around Yumoto-Hakone station
Kanetsuki (加満幸) - Friendly atmosphere with Japanese set meals and soba, plus curry for kids and big kids alike. Plastic models outside makes it easy to order. Soba from 600 yen • 11am-6pm • Opposite the station • Google Maps
Heike (治兵衛) - Another nice joint for some simple hearty Japanese food. Sets around 1000 yen • 11am-6pm • Further down the shopping street from Kanetsuki, on the left • Google Maps
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
There's not really any cheap supermarket in central Hakone, but there is a supermarket in Odawara (station where your transfer for the train to Yumoto-Hakone station) called Odakyu OX (9am-9:30). Head out the east exit, through the bus terminal to the small triangular park in the road, then take the first right. There is also an A-Co-Op (Ａコープ) supermarket near Sengoku bus stop (9am-6pm), to the north west of central Hakone, which you can use the Hakone Free Pass to get to.
Water bottle refill spots
There are no water fountains on the hiking routes so it’s best to go to a supermarket before and buy a large bottle or fill up your own one.
Shopping
Gotemba Premium Outlets
The most popular outlet mall for people living in Tokyo or Kanto, Gotemba has all the brands you could imagine. There are more than 200 stores in the complex, plus a food court and Ferris wheel. Prices are at least a bit lower than in the city and tax-free shopping is available. A must for shopaholics. 10am-8pm (Dec to Feb until 19:00) • Free shuttle bus from Gotemba station or take a bus to Gotemba Premium Outlets (included in Hakone Free Pass).
Recommended cheap accommodation
Hostels and guest houses
K's House Hakone - Onsen Hostel
Cheap hostel chain, but this branch is a little different, with a modern hot spring and new, but traditional looking, architecture. Has a large kitchen and complimentary tea and coffee. Dorms from 3500 yen • Google Maps
Guesthouse Azito
Really great prices for private rooms at this guesthouse. This place has a bar to hang out in, plus a kitchen and Japanese tatami floors. Single rooms from 3500 yen • Google Maps
Campsites and mountain huts
Lake Ashinoko Camp Village (芦ノ湖キャンプ村)
Located on Lake Ashi (where the sightseeing cruises happen), this campsite is part of Fuji-Hakone National Park. Surrounded by trees, this campsite also has a restaurant, a small shop and a barbeque area. Tent sites from 1000 yen, car sites from 3000 yen • Reception open 11am-5pm • Near Togendai-ko ropeway station • Google Maps • http://campmura.com/ (Japanese only)
Getting around
The Hakone Tozan Train is a funny little train that takes you on a ride around and up the mountain in a zig-zagging fashion. The Hakone Ropeway and Hakone Tozan Cable car connect visitors with the Lake Ashi from the Hakone Tozan Line, offering stunning views over the mountains. All are included in the Hakone Free Pass, as is an easy-to-use bus network connecting the outlying settlements.
How to get there and away
From Shinjuku, take the Odakyu Line train to Odawara station, then the Hakone Tozan Line to Hakone-Yumoto station (90 mins).
Tourist information (観光案内所)
There is an excellent Odakyu Tourist Center in Shinjuku station, in the Odakyu Department Store building, near the Odakyu ticket gates (8am-6pm). You should also pick up a free map that includes information related to seismic activity in the area, which in the past has required detours to get to spots in Hakone. There is also a tourist information center just outside Hakone-Yumoto station (9am-5:45pm).
Kamakura (鎌倉)
Kamakura is a great day trip from Tokyo, and when combined with the Enoshima Kamakura Freepass is a really cheap way to see a more traditional area. Most tourist spots are free or only a few hundred yen (or a somewhat pointless 20 yen for the giant Buddha!). Kamakura is full of interesting shrines, and great for autumn color and cherry blossoms. It can get awfully busy at weekends and on national holidays, so avoid these days if you can.
The Great Buddha of Kamakura, also known as Daibutsu
Discount pass: Enoshima Kamakura Freepass
Provides a round trip to Kamakura from Tokyo (Shinjuku station), as well as unlimited use of trains in the area for one day. There is a lot to do in Kamakura, and most of it is connected by the train lines of this pass. You will therefore start to save money very quickly. The cost of an Enoshima Kamakura Freepass is about the same as a return ticket. Buy from the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center in Shinjuku station, or the Odakyu ticket machines in the station. The pass also provides discounts or free gifts at about 20 sites and restaurants in Kamakura. Check http://www.odakyu.jp/english/deels/freepass/enoshima_kamakura/ for the latest on offer. Adults 1,470 yen, children 740 yen
A little bit of history
Kamakura, a former capital of Japan, is an ancient city that was once as powerful as Nara and Kyoto. In 1192 warrior Minamoto Yoritomo established the first military government here, the Kamakura Bakufu. Previously the Imperial family in Kyoto held all power. The Hojo clan took over after Yoritomo's death and developed trade in the 13th century, importing Buddhism, Chinese lacquerware and Zen architecture, having a great effect on Japanese society. From the 17th century, Kamakura started to become more important as a temple city. After the war it also prospered as a popular getaway for Tokyoites, with its beaches, resorts and traditional districts.
Things to do
Daibutsu and Kotokuin Temple (大仏殿高徳院)
World Heritage-listed temple and grand Buddha bronze statue that visitors can walk up into. At a height of more than 13 meters and weighing in at about 121 tons, it’s quite a sight. Be sure to have a look around the beautiful garden behind the Great Buddha to get your money's worth. Adults 200 yen, children 150 yen, Grand Buddha 20 yen • 8am-5:30pm (Apr - Sept), 8am-5pm (Oct - Mar) • 10 mins north from Hase station on the Enoshima Electric Railway • Google Maps
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine (鶴岡八幡宮)
The main shrine in Kamakura, another must see. In 1063, the Minamoto warrior clan created a power base around Kamakura after defeating clans to the north. The leader, Minamoto Yoriyoshi, returned to Kamakura and built this shrine near the coast to give thanks to the gods for his success. The Hachiman Kami (god) is therefore regarded as the protector of the warrior class. The result is a vast complex of well-maintained Japanese shrines, bridges and gardens. FREE • 8:30am-4pm (24h at New Year) • 10 mins from Kamakura station, east exit • Google Maps
Hasedera Temple (長谷寺)
Another must see in Kamakura, Hasedera is a significant Buddhist temple. It’s said to have been here even before Kamakura was the capital in the Kamakura period (1185-1333). The temple has an 11-faced Kannon statue at around 10 meters tall, which is one of the largest wooden Buddha statues in Japan. The observation platform also has a good view of the town and sea to the south. Adult 300 yen, children 100 yen (Treasure Museum + 200/100 yen) • 8am-5pm (Mar - Sept), 8am-4:30pm (Oct - Feb), Treasury 9am-5pm (closed Tuesdays) • Short walk from Hase station on Enoshima Electric Railway • Google Maps
Zeniarai Benten Shrine
Something a little different here as statues and structures are in mini caves, or cut into the rock. Built in 1185 as a place for peace and quiet reflection, Japanese people come here to wash their money and pray for prosperity. Try this if you are a bit ‘shrined out’, or need somewhere to chill. FREE • 8am-4:30pm • 20 mins walk from Kamakura station (west exit). Head
down the main road leading from the station, through the tunnel, then follow the tourist signs • Google Maps
Komachi Shopping Street
The main shopping street provides plenty of window shopping opportunities. There are lots of small, cheap Japanese candies to try as well, so as always be on the lookout for free samples! From Kamakura station, head to the left of the east exit • Google Maps
Kamakura Beaches
Picturesque beaches with greyish sand and rustic wooden buildings. Popular with surfers, there are stalls where visitors can rent out equipment and beach huts. Note that the beaches get extremely busy in summer. FREE • South of Yuigahama station on the Enoshima Electric Railway • Google Maps
Hiking trails
There are a variety of hiking trails accessible from nearby the train stations in Kamakura, with good signage in English.
Daibutsu hiking trail
Starting 350m down the road from Kotokuin Temple, this 3km trail is a nice way to escape the crowds and head up into the forests, passing the odd shrines and temple as you go. Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 1-2 hours
Gionyama hiking trail
Shorter course on the east side, Gionyama also has a cave tomb to explore, in addition to nice views of the city. Considered the easiest hiking trail here. Starts from Myohonji Temple (妙本寺), a five-minute walk from Kamakura station, east exit. Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 30 mins
Tenen hiking trail
Great hike up into the forested hills on the east side. There are several cave tombs along the way, plus this is the best trail to take during the autumn colors season. Most people start at Zuisen-ji Temple (瑞泉寺), 20 mins walk from Kamakura station, east exit (signs may point to Kamakura-gu Shrine first, which is on the way). Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 1-2 hours
Volunteer guides and tours
Kanagawa Systematized Good Will Guide Club - http://www.ksgg.org/
A variety of tours available, such as a 4 hour walking tour from Kamakura station to the main shrines and temples.
Budget food
On a hot day, getting something cheap from a supermarket or convenience store is best in Kamakura, as it’s not as built up as some places. Sadly, the choice of budget restaurants is not as good as back in the big city. But there are still a few cheap restaurants around if needed.
Around Kamakura station
Saizeriya (サイゼリヤ) - Light Italian dishes, such as a small pizza or pasta dish, this is a good spot. Pizzas from 390 yen, pasta from 399 yen • To the right side of the east exit • 10am-11pm • Google Maps
Komachi Shopping Street
In addition to the traditional restaurants down this street, there are also some cheap chain restaurants. Expect some tourist prices here, so be warned! The following are in order from Kamakura station (Komachi Shopping Street is the street to the left from the east exit):
Kaiten Misakiko (海鮮三崎港) - Cheap conveyor belt sushi. Sushi plate from 110 yen + tax • Google Maps
Komachi Tonkatsu (小満ちとんかつ) - Opposite Kaiten Misakiko, this old school joint has some no fuss Japanese sets. Prices are not great, but this place is a nice way to try everyday Japanese sets. Japanese sets from 980 yen • Google Maps
Kamakura Rikyu (りきゅう) - Family run, casual budget Japanese restaurant with decent curries and other favorites. Curry rice from 500 yen • Google Maps
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
Tokyu Store (東急ストア) is located outside Kamakura station, east exit (9am-10pm), to the right.
Shopping
100 yen shops
Daiso (ダイソー) - In the shopping mall to the right side of Kamakura station, east exit. 9am-10pm
Pharmacy (ドラッグ ストア)
Hac Drug Kamakura Shop (ハックドラッグ) is near Kamakura station, east exit. Head past the bus terminal, to the main road ahead, then down to the left a bit (9am-9pm).
Getting around
When you pick up your Enoshima Kamakura Freepass, be sure to take the free sightseeing map. This will show you how to get to each sightseeing spot. All the main sights are well signposted from the stations along this railway, as well as from Kamakura station, and are usually short walks away.
How to get there and away
From Shinjuku station, take the Odakyu Line to Fujisawa station, then the Enoshima Electric Railway to Enoshima station (76 mins, free with Enoshima Kamakura Freepass or 780 yen without).
Tourist information (観光案内所)
Inside Kamakura station (9am-7pm).
Kawagoe (川越)
Beautiful, traditional town less than an hour away from central Tokyo, in Saitama prefecture. It features a famous authentic old tower and shopping street, which is why many people call it ‘Little Edo’ (Edo was the old name for Tokyo). A great place for a nice one-day trip away from the skyscrapers of Tokyo. Kawagoe may not be as popular as other Tokyo side trips, but is still very much on domestic tourism maps.
Discount pass: Kawagoe Discount Pass
From Ikebukuro station in Tokyo, Tobu Railway offers the Kawagoe Discount Pass. It includes a return ticket, plus discounts or complimentary items at various stores in Kawagoe. It’s a no brainer. At 700 yen for adults (360 yen for children), it is already cheaper than a return ticket. Available from the Tojo Line ticket offices of Ikebukuro station. The Kawagoe Discount Pass Premium is also available (adults 950 yen, children 480 yen), which additionally includes unlimited bus travel around Kawagoe on Tobu buses. It’s not really required, unless you are really averse to lots of walking.
Things to do
Toki No Kane Bell Tower (時の鐘)
Still telling the time to residents, this is a traditional watch tower that is often featured in historical dramas. Kawagoe became a castle city in the 17th century (Edo period), and the feudal lord at the time ordered the grand bell tower to keep his subjects informed of the time. Would be crazy not to grab a photo of what is the icon of Kawagoe.
Kashiya Yokocho - Penny Candy Alley (菓子屋横丁)
Founded way back in the Meiji era, Kashiya Yokocho is a stone-paved alley lined with small shops selling nostalgic Japanese candy. Many of the candies are produced using the same processes as in the old days, and visitors can observe this process for free while strolling around. Small portions of these freshly made sweets are available as well, so try a few shops! As ever, keep a look out for free samples.
Kita-in Temple (喜多院)
A renowned temple only a short walk away from the other points of interest in Kawagoe. First built in 830, it features 540 stone Buddhas with various facial expressions, plus buildings and artifacts from castles in the Edo period. Adults 400 yen, children 200 yen • Mon-Sat 8:50am-4:30pm, Sundays and holidays to 4:50pm (March 1 - Nov 23), Mon-Sat 8:50am-4pm, Sundays and holidays to 4:20pm (Nov 24 - Feb 28) (closed New Year holidays, Feb 2-3, Apr 2-5, Aug 16) • Down Toshogu Nakain Dori, follow tourist signs • Google Maps
Volunteer guides and tours
The Kawagoe English Walkers - http://hebbon-juku.com/kawagoe-guide/
Local experts and English enthusiasts, ready to take you around and answer your questions. You just need to pay for your guides meal and expenses with this group.
Budget food
Wendy’s First Kitchen (ファーストキッチン) - Cheap soups, burgers and pasta. Pasta from 580 yen, burgers from 370 yen • 10am-9pm • Inside Hon-Kawagoe station. Also inside Atre Mall, outside Kawagoe station, east exit
Hidakaya (日高屋) - Ramen and gyoza dumplings. Ramen from 390 yen • 10am-3am • Outside Kawagoe station, west exit
Kyotaru (京樽) - Cheap sushi shop. Sushi from 108 yen • 11am-7pm • Inside Maruhiro Department Store (丸広百貨店), near the east exit of Hon-Kawagoe station
Ootoya (大戸屋) - Japanese set meals. Sets from 750 yen • 10am-10pm • Inside EQUIA(エキア) department store, Kawagoe station.
Matsuya (松屋) -
Rice bowls and curry. Gyudon bowls from 290 yen • 24h • Just to the left of Kawagoe station, west exit. Also at Hon-Kawagoe station, east exit.
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
There is a large supermarket in Tobu Store (川越マイン), the large building to the right of Kawagoe station, east exit (9am-1am).
Shopping
100 yen shops
Can Do (キャンドゥ) - Inside the Tobu Store complex, outside from Kawagoe station, east exit. 9am-9pm
Watts (ワッツ) - Inside Hon-Kawagoe station. 10am-8pm
How to get there and away
From Ikebukuro station (on the JR Yamanote Line), take the Tobu Line to Kawagoe (30 mins, 463 yen or free with Kawagoe Discount Pass).
Tourist information (観光案内所)
Inside Kawagoe station (9am-5pm).
Omiya and Bonsai Village (大宮)
Omiya, in Saitama prefecture, has a special place in many hearts as the often forgotten city in “that prefecture north of Tokyo”. It may not be the coolest place on earth, but it’s a great non-touristy day trip from Tokyo or a nice spot to stop off at on the Shinkansen if you have a bit of time left at the end of using a rail pass. The highlight here is the Bonsai Village, but Hikawa Shrine is also quite famous. There are never any tour buses here!
Things to do
Omiya Bonsai Village (大宮盆栽村)
Bonsai is the art of creating miniature tree sculptures, using painstaking work over many years to create stunning shapes and forms that the artist desires. While not often known to Tokyoites down south, Omiya Bonsai Village is known to Bonsai experts and Saitama residents to be the top site in Japan to see Bonsai trees. Great any time of the year, the village is full of many free to enter gardens, and the streets have been designed in a delightful fashion to show off the various Bonsai sites. You may even get to see the experts at work if you’re lucky!
Omiya Bonsai Art Museum (大宮盆栽美術館)
An enthusiastic display of bonsai, and a must for flower enthusiasts or an interesting visit for those that want to know a little more about bonsai after visiting the surrounding gardens. The museum's aim is to promote the art and culture of bonsai, and it does this by displaying masterpieces from the area, including Ukiyoe woodblock paintings depicting bonsai. The history and process of making a bonsai tree is also explained in a series of galleries. Adults 300 yen, high school to university age 150 yen, elementary to junior 100 yen • 10am-4pm (closed Thursdays and New Year holidays) • From Omiya, take the Tobu Urban Park Line to Omiya Koen station (4 mins, 150 yen). Alternatively, if coming from Tokyo on a JR train, you can continue on the Utsunomiya Line to Toro station • Google Maps • http://www.bonsai-art-museum.jp/en/
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