Super Cheap Japan

by Matthew Baxter

  Walk it!

  It’s best to walk around the free bonsai gardens around the village first before considering the museum, as this is enough for most people. From Omiya Koen station, all the sights can be reached on foot, so just use the map to get to all the marked gardens:

  It is also possible to walk all the way to Omiya Koen station from downtown Omiya, via the below Hikawa Shrine. Just before the entrance to the shrine building, take a right turn and walk into Omiya Park. Head north up past the zoo and the lake, until you reach the exit after the racing center (大宮競輪場). Take a left around the middle school (さいたま市立大宮北中学校) and walk up to the station.

  Omiya city

  Hikawa Shrine (氷川神社)

  Our favorite shrine in Saitama, and not a tour group in site to obstruct the view. This tranquil but impressive in size shrine has a history of more than 2000 years. The city got its name from the shrine, as Omiya actually means ‘large shrine’. It is one of the top shrines in the Kanto region, so is a center for the faithful and a great spot for New Year celebrations. FREE • Mar - Apr, Sept - Oct: 5am-5:30pm, May - Aug: 5am-6pm, Nov - Feb 6am-4:30pm • Head up the main road from Omiya station (east exit), past Takashimaya department store. Just before the police box and nearby 7-Eleven, you can see a wide path lined with trees. Head down here to the shrine (takes 15-20 mins in total) • Google Maps

  Railway Museum (鉄道博物館ミュージアムショップ)

  A great place to geek out on trains or keep the children entertained on the super cute kiddie trains. There is a huge amount of history on show here, plus full sized trains of different generations to have a look around, including old Shinkansen trains. Japan has the most modern railway technology in the world, so this museum is an excellent place to get hands-on experiences using simulators and train models. Adults 1000 yen, elementary to high school age 500 yen, 3 and above 200 yen • 10am-6pm (closed Tuesdays and New Year holidays) • Head out of Omiya station west side, then follow the New Shuttle overhead tracks north (15 mins), or take the New Shuttle directly to Tetsudo-Hakubutsukan station (2 mins, 190 yen) • Google Maps • http://www.railway-museum.jp/en/

  Budget food

  There are a few convenience stores in Omiya Bonsai Village to pick up take-away meals or snacks. If you are looking to eat in, there are a host of cheap places all around the Omiya station, but the best bet is to head up the shopping street to the left, after leaving Omiya station from the east exit. Here are some spots up this street (in order from station):

  Yoshinoya (吉野家) - Gyudon eat-in and takeaway. Meals from 330 yen • 24h

  Kaiten Misakiko (海鮮三崎港) – Cheap sushi. Sushi plate from 110 yen + tax • 11am-10pm

  Ministop (ミニストップ) - Looks like a standard convenience store, but has a large takeaway menu for fast food cooked onsite. Meals from 350 yen • 24h

  Matsuya (松屋) - Gyudon and burger eat-in and takeaway. Meals from 290 yen • 24h

  Tenya (天丼てんや) - Cheap tempura (deep fried fish and vegetables) bowls and plates. Bowls from 500 yen • 10:30am-10pm

  Hidakaya Ramen (日高屋) - Cheap ramen chain. Fried rice and gyoza dumplings also available. Ramen from 390 yen • 10:30am-3am

  Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)

  Daiei (ダイエー) is across from the west exit of Omiya station, and has a good selection for making your own food cheaply (9am-11pm). In the Bonsai Village, there is a Tobu supermarket just outside Omiya Koen station (6am-1am).

  Water bottle refill spots

  All the above restaurants have water jugs to refill your water bottles, apart from the convenience stores. Omiya Park also has a few water fountains.

  Shopping

  100 yen shops

  Daiso (ダイソー) - Located in Rakuun (ラクーン) shopping mall, which is up the shopping street on the left after exiting from Omiya station on the east side. There is also a Don Quijote variety shop here if you need more choice. 10am-9pm

  Pharmacy (ドラッグ ストア)

  There is a large Sundrug (ドラッグ ストア) if you head out of Omiya on the east side and walk up the shopping street to the left. Open 10am-9:45pm.

  How to get there and away

  From Shinjuku station, take the Saikyo Line or Shonan-Shinjuku Line to Omiya station (30 mins, 470 yen). From Tokyo station, take the Utsunomiya Line to Omiya (30 mins, 550 yen) or just hop on the next north heading Shinkansen if using a rail pass. To get to Omiya Bonsai Village from Omiya, take the Tobu Urban Park Line to Omiya-Koen (3 mins, 150 yen). Recommended rail passes: JR Tokyo Wide Pass, Japan Rail Pass

  Tourist information (観光案内所)

  There is a small tourist information booth in Omiya station (9am-7pm).

  Kyoto

  Kinkaku-ji, also known as the golden pavilion

  Kyoto, the heart of traditional Japan, is a large city packed with countless amazing shrines and temples. The city has still retained much of its old-style atmosphere, due to strict building regulations and a traditionally-minded populace. It’s a million miles away from the skyscrapers of Osaka and Tokyo. For first timers to Japan, it’s a must to stay here for at least a day or two. For visitors who have already been before, there are still a host of lesser known and quieter spots to visit. The city has a grand total of 17 World Heritage sites, so people keep on coming back for more!

  A little bit of history

  Kyoto has been a prominent city since all the way back to the Nara period (AD 710 to 794), and since then has been seen as the cultural center of the country. It was the capital for around 1000 years before Emperor moved it to Tokyo. Much of the treasures and the rich culture from the ancient capital still remain today, in the shrines, temples, museums and Japanese gardens. Religious festivals, rituals and dances are still very much on offer, in events such as Gion Matsuri. In more recent years, it has made a name for itself in technology and is known as the hometown of gaming giant Nintendo, among others.

  Highlights

  1) Kinkaku-ji

  You have probably seen the golden pavilion in postcards, and it’s even more beautiful with your own eyes.

  2) Kiyomizu-dera

  Super popular temple, overlooking Kyoto and connected to a traditional shopping street.

  3) Arashiyama

  Kyoto’s famous bamboo groves, possibly the best in Japan.

  4) Fushimi Inari Taisha

  Head up the mountains around Kyoto through hundreds of small red torii gates.

  5) Gion

  The place to see geisha, if you're super lucky!

  Volunteer guides

  Sakura Volunteer Guide Club - http://kyotofreeguide.web.fc2.com/

  Well-respected club for volunteer guides, they can take you to major sites and tourist attractions with different plans available. One nice thing about this club is that for events, such as festivals, they organize special get-togethers for a small fee.

  Good Samaritan Club - http://www.geocities.jp/goodsamaritanclub_hp/index.html

  Another popular service, the members are local university students hoping to meet and show foreigners around. Usually one-day tours.

  Goodwill Guide on Kyoto Handicraft & Historical Sites - http://ggkh.d.dooo.jp/

  As the name suggests, this group focuses on traditional Kyoto, so is good for a more in-depth tour experience.

  How to get there and away

  By air

  Kyoto doesn’t have an airport, so the nearest international one is Kansai International Airport, near Osaka. From here there are cheap buses into Kyoto (90 mins, 2550 yen), which if you have lots of luggage may be better than local trains (95 mins, 1880 yen). Having said that, it may be worth getting an ICOCA and JR Haruka Pass. This combines use of a limited express train to and from the airport, plus a ICOCA card charged with 1500 yen. Available from 5200 yen for a round trip from the airport.

  By train

  Kyoto station is on the Shinkansen l
ine, so use this if you have a Japan Rail Pass. There are frequent trains to Osaka and Nara. If you have a train pass, make sure you are using the correct lines. There are also frequent local trains to these nearby cities.

  By bus

  Many buses going from Tokyo to Osaka also stop in Kyoto, so they are a great option for budget travelers not using a Japan Rail Pass. Check prices at Japan Bus Lines, Willer Bus and JR Bus Kanto.

  Discount pass: Kyoto City Bus One-Day Pass

  With only two subway lines and a bunch of separate, expensive train lines, buses are the best way to get around Kyoto for budget travelers. While the buses can be slow, they link up with almost all the tourist spots in the city. This pass provides unlimited travel on the city buses for one day. Pass users will be saving money after just a few trips. Buy it from tourist information centers, such as in Kyoto station, or on any city bus. Adults 500, children 250

  Sample itineraries

  These itineraries can both be done with the bus pass:

  Kyoto’s best shrine and temples

  This would be a great first day for visitors to Kyoto. Start off with a bang at Kiyomizu-dera, but head there as early as possible to avoid the crowds and see the amazing temple on the forested hill in peace. Next proceed up to Ginkaku-ji Temple, another world heritage site and enjoy a peaceful walk along the Philosopher's Walk. After lunch head to the west side for the breathtaking golden pavilion of Kinkaku-ji Temple and the surrounding temples.

  Kyoto’s special treasures

  First, head to Shimogamo and Kamigamo shrines, to see some of the oldest, yet least visited of the main shrines in Kyoto. Then make your way south to Nijo Castle and do some budget shopping and eating out in Kawaramachi Shopping District. In the evening head to Gion’s southern streets to look out for geisha.

  Cycle it and save!

  Kyoto city has mainly flat, well maintained roads, so is perfect for bike riders. It can also be a way to avoid the sometimes frustratingly slow buses and lackluster subway system. Traveling from one side to the other would probably not take more than 1 hour, and there are excellent English language signs and maps everywhere, in case you get lost. Most good hostels or hotels will have bikes to rent out, or can suggest a nearby rental station. Renting from the place where you are staying is often cheaper.

  Kyoto Budget Accommodation

  Hostels and guest houses

  Hannari

  Our favorite in Kyoto by far. Spacious dorm booths keep the noise out, and there is a comfortable lounge downstairs to make friends and exchange travel tips. Free drinks and breakfast every day. Dorms from 2500 yen • Google Maps • http://hannari-guesthouse.com/

  Kyoto Tomato Guest House

  Cheerful hostel only a few minutes from Kyoto station. It therefore tends to get booked up early, so grab the chance if you can. Free wifi and cheap 100 yen washing machine. Dorms 2300, Private rooms from 2700 yen • Google Maps • http://kyoto.ihostelz.com/

  Jiyujin

  A little bit pricier than the others, but this definitely feels like a real Kyoto guesthouse, slightly rusting but with lots of charm. It’s also smaller and therefore much quieter than the others. Dorms 2600 yen, Singles 4000 yen, Twins from 3250 yen • Google Maps • http://www.0757085177.com/

  Internet cafes

  topscafe (トップスカフェ)

  Net cafe welcoming towards tourists. Rather basic, even for a net cafe, but has loads of free comics. If you use an app called Line, and become friends with topscafe (@topscafe-8), 100 yen discount may be available. Night packs (ナイトパック) available from 9pm: from 1728 yen (+200 yen registration fee) • Opposite Kyoto Avanti shopping mall. Take the Hachijo east exit from Kyoto station, then walk across the road and the cafe is above the Nakau (なか卯) restaurant (2F) • Google Maps • http://www.topsnet.co.jp/5/index.html

  OWL (アウル)

  Small net cafe with lots of cheap vending machines and a variety of seats and booths. Showers 500 yen.　Night packs (ナイトパック) available 9pm: from 2200 yen (weekends and holidays plus 500 yen) • Outside Hachioji exits, just down the narrow street at the Ibis hotel • Google Maps

  Kyoto city center and around Kyoto station (中心部)

  In comparison to the rest of Kyoto, the city center has a large number of multi-storey buildings and department stores. It’s not exactly Shibuya or Shinjuku, but it’s the place to come for cheaper non-tourist priced shopping, travel supplies and the main location for transportation elsewhere. There are a few large temples within walking distance as well, so consider using the coin lockers in the station and having a walk around if you have some spare time before or after catching the train.

  Things to do

  North side

  Honganji West Temple (西本願寺)

  The headquarters of the largest school of Jōdo Shinshū Buddhism, Honganji was first established in 1321 but gained prominence in the 15th century. This growing power led it to be attacked multiple times, from rival sects such as Tendai and feudal lords such as Oda Nobunaga. The west temple is the largest of them all and the organization has now spread all over the world. Features include a Japanese garden, a worship hall called Amidado (Hall of Amida Buddha), the stunning Chinese-style cypress-thatched gate known as the Karamon and a large Ginkgo tree for autumn colors. FREE • 5:50am-5:30pm (Mar - Oct), 6:20am-4:30 pm (Nov – Feb) • On foot: From Kyoto station Karasuma exit, head straight up Karasuma Dori, then take a left on the main road after Yodobashi Camera (Shichi-jo Dori). Walk until you reach the temple's moat. By bus: no.9 and 28 to Nishi Honganji-mae • Google Maps • http://www.higashihonganji.or.jp/english_top/

  Honganji East Temple (東本願寺)

  Blighted by division and war over the centuries, the temples were broken apart in 1602 by a new Shogun called Tokugawa Ieyasu, splitting the sect’s power base and leading to a more peaceful future. Best known for its massive Goei-dō gate that measures 27 meters high and 31 meters wide, the temple claims it’s the largest wooden building in the world. FREE • 5:50am-5:30 pm (Mar - Oct), 6:20am-4:30 pm (Nov - Feb) • On foot: From Kyoto station Karasuma exit, head straight up Karasuma Dori. By bus: no.5, 26, 88, 205, 206, 208 to Karasuma-Nanajo • Google Maps • http://www.hongwanji.or.jp/english/

  Shosei-en Garden (渉成園)

  Large garden, also known as Kikoku-tei, belonging to the Honganji East Temple. Built in the early Heian period (794-1185) and thought to be the former residence of the son of Emperor Saga. The Japanese pond is still the same as it was back then, and the serene garden was added in the 16th century by local noblemen. In addition, there are some tea houses and cherry blossom trees, so it can get pretty crowded in spring! Entry by donation (500 yen recommended) • 9am-4pm • Quick walk east from Honganji East Temple • Google Maps

  Kyoto Tower (京都タワー)

  Apparently the tallest non-steel reinforced tower (is that a good thing?!), Kyoto Tower is a rather dated building that provides a view of Kyoto and its surrounding mountains. It’s not going to blow you away, but is worth it if you have time and some cash leftover. Otherwise, go to Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine for a view over the city. Adults 700 yen, junior high school students 550 yen, younger children 450 yen (minus 70 yen if you print out a discount coupon online, if currently available. Use Google Translate, as the page is in Japanese) • 9am-9pm • Outside Kyoto station Karasuma exit • Google Maps

  South side

  Toji Temple (東寺)

  When Japan’s capital was moved from Nara to Kyoto in 794, the west and east (Toji Temple) ‘guardian temples’ were built to protect Kyoto. The west temple no longer exists, but Toji remains to this day. Emperor Saga entrusted the temple to a monk named Kukai, who enlarged the complex with various halls, gardens and pagodas. Due to this illustrious history, it became a World Heritage listed Buddhist temple, famous for its grand five-storey, 54.8-meter high pagoda, which is the highest wooden tower in Japan. Adults 500 yen, high school children 400 yen, element
ary age 300 yen, infants free • 8:30am-5:00 pm (Mar 20 - Sept 19), 8:30 am-4:00 pm (Sept 20 - Mar 19) • On foot: take the Hachioji (south) exit and turn right. Walk down the road until you see a post office. Walk left down the main road, Toji is a minute down the road. By Bus: No. 202/208 to Toji Minamimonmae or No. 207 to Toji Higashimonmae. By train: Outside Toji station (Kintetsu Kyoto Line) • Google Maps

  East side

  Sanjusangendo Temple

  Completely breathtaking temple containing one thousand life-sized, golden Kannon statues in the world's longest wooden building, at 120 meters long. The main statue is of Kannon, a national treasure representing peace and compassion. Nothing quite like it. Adults 600 yen, children 300 yen • 9am-4pm (Nov 16 - Mar 31), 8am-5pm (Apr 1 - Nov 15) • Hakubutsukan Sanjusangendo-mae on bus routes 100, 206 or 208. Also near Shichijo station on Keihan Line • Google Maps

  Walk/Cycle it and save!

  To walk from Kyoto station to Sanjusangendo, take the Karasuma (north) exit and you will see Kyoto Tower. Walk down past Yodobashi Camera and then walk to the right on Shichi-jo street, walking over a river, until you get to Sanjusangendo Temple on the right. It takes about 20 minutes on foot.

  Umekoji Park area (奈良公園)

  A large playground and park on the west side of the station, great for families and big kids as well.