Daikichiyamafuchi Park Hike (大吉山 風致公園)
A short 30 minute hike up the hill that gives a great view over Uji. Moderately steep at some points, but away from all the crowds on most days. Take a right turn just before entering the Koshoji Temple grounds and walk up. After a few minutes take a right, then take a left up the hike path. Continue up the hill and down to Ujigami Shrine • Google Maps
Ujigami Shrine (宇治上神社)
Sadly overlooked by the many who head straight to Byodoin Temple and the matcha tea shops, Ujigami Shrine is also a very significant sight, as it is believed to be the oldest shrine in Japan. The inner shrine has been designated a national treasure and is the second UNESCO World Heritage site in Uji. This shrine is built in a classic, minimalist Shinto style and packed into a small alcove, surrounded by quiet nature. FREE • 9am-4:30pm • Google Maps
Sawarabi Road Walk
After visiting Ujigami Shrine, we recommend heading down to the main bridge via Uji Shrine (宇治神社). It makes for a relaxing stroll past some interesting old-style homes and cafes.
Budget food
Eating out options are limited for budget travelers as this is quite a touristy area. Head to the supermarket or a convenience store for lunch, or to one of these:
Hokka Hokka Tei (ほっかほっか亭) - Bento boxes. Bentos from 399 yen • 9:30am-9:30pm • JR Uji south exit, opposite 7-Eleven.
Hakodate Ichiba (函館市場) - Conveyer belt sushi. Sushi from 120 yen • 11:30-10pm • Near Keihan Uji station.
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
The best supermarket is Happy Terada (ハッピーテラダ), which has a large stock of cheap food and drinks (10am-8pm). First head to JR Uji station, then walk down the stairs on the left from the north exit. Walk down the narrow road, take a left turn and the supermarket is a minute down, near the tracks.
How to get there and away
From JR Kyoto station, take the Nara Line to Uji (30 mins, 240 yen). If using one of the above Keihan passes, from Kyoto take a train from Gion Shijo station (30 mins) or from Osaka take a train from Kyobashi (50 mins). From Nara station, take the Nara Line to Uji (40 mins, 500 yen). Usable rail passes: Japan Rail Pass, Kansai Area Pass, Kansai Wide Area Pass, Kansai-Hiroshima Area Pass, Kansai Thru Pass
Tourist information (観光案内所)
Just outside JR Uji station, south exit (9am-5pm).
Ise Grand Shrine (伊勢神宮)
As one of the official top three shrine areas in Japan, Ise Grand Shrine is well worth the journey. The simple, yet spectacular shrines really have to be seen with your own eyes. One third of the town's land is owned by the 2000-years-old institution, which has kept it mainly forested. The town is considered to be Japan's religious and spiritual center.
Discount pass: Ise Toba Michikusa Kippu
Unlimited use of the loop buses connecting all the main spots, plus 10 to 20% discounts on entrance fees for several tourist attractions. Worth it if you are going to travel a few times on the bus, otherwise just get single tickets. Buy at Sanco Bus ticket booths in the station or at the tourist information center. Adults 1000 yen, children 500 yen
Things to do
Ise Shopping Street
Just outside Iseshi station, you will pass this street on the way to Ise Shrine Geku. It’s full of interesting shops, making for a good hour or two of window shopping. As ever, be sure to pop in even if it seems over your budget, as free samples may be on offer!
Outer Shrine (Geku) (伊勢神宮外宮)
The outer shrine, also known as the Grand Shrine, is the real chart topper here. A stunning piece of minimalist architecture, it enshrines Toyouke Omikami, the Shinto deity and guardian of food, housing and clothing. Back in the Edo period, a once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage to the Grand Shrine was considered a way to achieve true religious purification. The site, more than 1500 years old, is bustling with tourists and worshippers, but the huge size of the place stops it from feeling too crowded. FREE • 5am-5pm • Head down the shopping street from Iseshi station • Google Maps
Inner Shrine (Naiku) (伊勢神宮内宮)
A large collection of little shrines, plus the big new one, it enshrines the sun goddess Amaterasu Omikami, the mythological ancestor of the Imperial Family. It’s considered the holiest site in the whole of Japan for many Japanese and to be a “power spot” for spiritual energy. Believed to have been established more than 2000 years ago, its buildings almost resemble rice granaries, owing to the fact they were first built before the introduction of Buddhist architecture from mainland Asia. FREE • 5am-5pm • On CAN-Bus and the Geku-Naiku Loop Line buses • Google Maps
Oharaimachi (おはらい町)
800 meter stone paved shopping street, full of traditional wooden built souvenir shops. Make sure you try Ise miso noodles, the famous dish in Ise, with prices ranging from 650 to 800 yen. The extra-thick and soft udon noodles are dipped in a dark broth made of tamari shoyu (soy sauce), and it’s available from various shops and restaurants along the street. Starts near entrance to Ise Grand Shrine • Google Maps
Walk it and save!
It would be possible to walk from the Outer Shrine (Geku) to the Inner Shrine (Naiku). It takes about an hour, south down Route 32, which is the main road outside the Outer Shrine. It would also be possible to walk south down the Kintetsu Line, via Isuzugawa station. The places along the way aren’t of great interest, but it’s a nice way to see everyday life in the city.
Getting around
CAN-Bus and the Geku-Naiku Loop Line buses run frequently to all the main spots, if you don’t want to walk all the way (430 yen from Ise Shrine Geku to Ise Grand Shrine).
Budget food
Budget travelers should use the convenience stores (a few around the stations) or the supermarket listed below for food in Ise. The Ise Miso Noodles are worth trying in Oharaimachi though.
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
Gyutora Supermarket (ぎゅーとら) is located a few minutes down to the right from Kintetsu Iseshi station, exit 2 (9am-10pm).
Recommended cheap accommodation
Kazami Guest House
A well regarded hostel with cheap rates, based in an old building with lots of charm. Dorms from 2600 yen • Google Maps • http://ise-guesthouse.com/en/
Yumebito House
A short walk from the station and with super low prices. Good recreation lounge to hang out in and meet some fellow travelers. Dorms from 2300 yen • Google Maps
How to get there and away
By rail
From Tokyo, first head to Nagoya. From Nagoya station, take the Kintetsu Nagoya Line to Iseshi station (2 hours, 1410 yen). The faster limited express is covered by the Kintetsu Rail Pass. From Osaka, first go to Tsuruhashi station (Sennichimae Line), then take the Kintetsu Osaka Line to Iseshi station (2 hours, 1750 yen). There is also a JR station if using a Japan Rail Pass. Recommended rail passes: Kintetsu Rail Pass, Japan Rail Pass
By bus
Willer Bus has buses to/from Tokyo (9 hours, from 3500 yen), while bus companies such as Mie Kostu Bus have cheap buses to/from Osaka (3 hours, from 1250 yen) and Kyoto (3.5 hours, from 1250 yen). Bookings can be made at the tourist information center in Ise, the bus terminals in Osaka and Kyoto, or Shinjuku Bus Terminal. Recommended bus pass: Japan Bus Pass
Tourist information (観光案内所)
Inside Iseshi station and in front of the Geku Shrine (9am-5:30pm).
Koyasan (高野山)
Koyasan is becoming increasingly popular as a side trip from Osaka, and is a perfect antidote to the downtown hustle and bustle of the big city. Located in the Koya-Ryujin Quasi-National Park, Koyasan will really take your breath away. The UNESCO World Heritage site has the head temple and sites of Esoteric Buddhism, up on the peak of a mysterious mountain. The temples will stun you with their beauty and size. There are dozens of temples in the area, plus ruins to explore along some well signpos
ted hiking routes. All in all, a great spot for budget travelers.
Travel discounts and packages
Koyasan World Heritage Ticket
Cheapest and easiest way to visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Koyasan if you want to stay a night there. It provides a return ticket on the Nankai Line, use of the cable car, and unlimited use of local Nankai Rinkan buses. It also comes with 20% off discount coupons for admission to many of the areas sites. For those looking to buy souvenirs, pass holders get 10% off at a few shops in town. Definitely worth it, as a regular full return fare is 2520 yen, and you will probably want to use the bus multiple times. Buy at Nankai Namba station. Two day pass 3400 yen
World Heritage Koyasan One-Day Free Ticket
A great option if you are only going for a day, this ticket allows unlimited use of buses in Koyasan, plus the above discounts and more. It doesn't include the train and cable car to Koyasan, but saves you a little and gives more flexibility with transportation to/away from Koyasan, especially if you plan to use the hiking routes to skip the cable car and/or train. Also a good option if you are using a national or regional train pass to get here, and want a day pass just for the local buses. Buy from the bus office in front of Koyasan station. Adults 830 yen, children 420 yen
Things to do
Kongobuji Temple (金剛峯寺)
The HQ for the local Buddhist sect, which now has more than 4000 temples across Japan. Features a great collection of traditional shoji screen paintings, religious artifacts and carvings, plus a Japanese rock garden. Built by the monk Kobo Daishi in the 9th century, it’s the oldest building on the mountain. After he built it on the mountain, many other monks started to gather here and used it as the main site to study Buddhism. The quiet mountains of Koyasan provided a perfect spot to do this, and the whole mountain became a site of worship. Adults 500 yen, children 200 yen • 8:30am-5pm • Kongobuji-mae bus stop • Google Maps
Okunoin Temple and Graveyard (奥の院)
A truly fascinating graveyard, any time of the year. There are a host of statues, famous gravestones and a peaceful river flowing through. The golden temple at the end, surrounded by the forest, is a wonderful site and worth the walk up. FREE • 24h • Okunoin-Mae bus stop • Google Maps
Konpon Daito Temple (根本大塔)
A huge red temple with a towering pagoda. Enter at the front to check out the gold statues inside, and listen to the traditional Buddhist bells chime in the breezy winds. 200 yen • 8:30am-5pm • Daito-mae or Kondo-mae bus stops • Google Maps
Kondo Hall (金堂)
Worth a quick visit, as it provides a nice contrast to the other buildings in the area. Interesting Buddhist statues and ornaments inside. 200 yen • 8:30am-5pm • Next to Konpon Daito Temple • Google Maps
Reihokan Museum (霊宝館)
The main museum in Koyasan, visitors can explore a good selection of beautiful Buddhist paintings, ornaments and treasures from around Koyasan. The shape is said to resemble the Byodoin in Uji. Adults 600 yen, children 350 yen • 8:30am-5pm • Daito-mae or Kondo-mae bus stops • Google Maps
Daimon Gate (大門)
This grand 25 meter high Buddhist gate is the entrance to the town, and built to protect it from evil spirits. Also a good spot to start a hike. FREE • 24h • Daimon bus stop • Google Maps
Tokugawa Clan Mausoleum (徳川家霊台)
Built in 1643 by the Tokugawa shogun and his family, the structure took 20 years to bring to completion. The outside is constructed of unfinished wood, while the interior is decorated in gold leaf. There is a small collection of golden Buddhist ornaments inside. 200 yen • 8:30am-5pm • Namikiri-Fudo-mae bus stop • Google Maps
Hiking in Koyasan
Before starting any of these hikes, it’s recommended to check the latest track conditions and any route changes at the tourist information center in Koyasan or at Nankai Namba station. Bus stops are at all the starting and end points.
Fudozaka Route
Starting at Koyasan station (last stop on the train), this route goes via Gokuraku Bridge and up the mountain to Fudozaka-guchi Nyonindo (which is another 30 mins walk from the town). It’s a good way to skip on the price of the cable car, or just a great hike that is not too taxing. Do it in reverse if you are not into hiking up. Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 1 hour
Koyasan Women Pilgrims Route
Starts from the top of the Fudozaka Route (Fudozaka-guchi Nyonindo) and heads around the mountain to Okunoin. Note that you can also join the route from Daimon (entrance from behind Daimon), but be careful that you are going down the right route. Several interesting ruins dot the route, plus there is some stunning nature along the way. Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 2.5 hours
Koyasan Sanzan Route
This route heads more out into the mountains, so is steeper but more out into nature and away from the crowds. This grand course goes all the way from Fudozaka-guchi Nyonindo to Okunoin, so it’s possible to combine this route with others if you want a more challenging hike. Difficulty: Medium • Hike time: 3 hours
Volunteer guides and tours
Wakayama Volunteer Club - http://www.geocities.jp/wivcinfo/
Very responsive and organized volunteer group, which can take visitors around the main sites in Koyasan, as well as other spots in the prefecture. They do ask for 4000 yen, but this includes transportation costs. Apply at least two weeks in advance.
Getting around
There is a good, easy to understand bus network, use of which is included with the Koyasan passes. It is also possible to walk everywhere (apart from the bus-only road from the cable car station to town), with the main stretch, from Daimon to Okunoin, only being 3km.
Budget food
There are no budget chain restaurants in Koyasan, but there are a few traditional family-run joints, offering the usual selection of noodles, curry and Japanese set meals (located near the Tourism Information Center and Senjuin-Bashi bus stop). Expect to pay more than you would in the cities, from 800-900 per meal, and note some close in the evenings. Especially if you are staying at Koyasan Guest House Kokuu, bring your food from a supermarket in Osaka and use the kitchen facilities at your accommodation. As it can be chilly, bringing some Cup Noodles is never a bad decision!
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
While there is no large supermarket here, Koyasan has a convenience store called New Yamasaki (ニューヤマザキデイリーストア), formally named Coco. Head down the side street at the post office (near the tourist information center), take the first left and walk down a minute or two.
Recommended cheap accommodation
Many visitors to Koyasan stay in one of the Buddhist temples, but unless you really want to splash out on one expensive night, the prices are way too high for budget travelers. Book the following hostel ASAP, as at time of going to press there are no other budget options:
Koyasan Guest House Kokuu
While not temple lodgings, it’s by far the cheapest place in Koyasan. In a good location, near a bus stop, with clean rooms, free wifi and kitchen facilities to cook in the hostel. Capsule style beds from 3500 yen • Google Maps • http://koyasanguesthouse.com/en/
How to get there and away
From Nankai Namba station (next to Namba subway station), take the Nankai Koya Line to Gokurakubashi (90 mins, 870 yen without a pass). You may need to change at Hashimoto. If the train is going direct to Gokurakubashi, make sure you are in the front carriage, as the train splits at Hashimoto. Once at Gokurakubashi station take the cable car to the top. From there a bus will be waiting to take you into Koyasan town center. There is also a hiking route from Koyasan station (see the Fudozaka Route) to/from Daimon, which may be of interest if you are just traveling with a backpack. This is also a nice way to save money if you don’t have one of the passes. Usable rail pass: Kansai Thru Pass
Tourist information (観光案内所)
Near Senjuin-Bashi bus stop (8:
30am-7pm Mar-Nov, 9am-5pm Dec-Feb).
West of Kyoto and Osaka
Otorii Gate, Miyajima
Most first timers to Japan head all the way to Hiroshima and Miyajima on western Honshu. Visitors to Hiroshima can learn about the city's dark past and see the world famous floating Japanese gate on the coast of Miyajima. There are also some other great spots for newbies and regulars alike, such as the often forgotten mountain castle in Bitchu-Takahashi and the lovely traditional canal town of Kurashiki. For us though, the main highlight is the newly rebuilt Himeji Castle, Japan’s most famous and deservedly a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Discount pass: Kansai-Hiroshima Area Pass
The Kansai-Hiroshima Area Pass allows unlimited travel on JR (national rail) trains for five days within Kansai and southern Chugoku, from Miyajima in the west to Nara in the east. As it allows for use of the Shinkansen in this area, it’s a great way to see lots of western Honshu (Japan’s main island) in a short amount of time. Even using highway buses and local trains would not be that much cheaper, and a Shinkansen ticket from Kyoto to Hiroshima is nearly as much as the cost of the pass. It provides access to nearly all the places in this guide in between (Bitchu-Takahashi and Koyasan require short extra journeys). Ise Grand Shrine is quite far out, but there are cheap buses, so you could easily go there before or after using the pass. Buy online at http://www.westjr.co.jp/global/en/ticket/pass/kansai_hiroshima/. For those with tourist visas only. Adults 13500 yen, children 6750 yen
Sample itinerary: Western Honshu in five days
Start at Osaka for this one. Spend day one in Kobe, a trendy city with a large Chinatown. Next, continue on to the World Heritage castle in Himeji. On day three, see one of Japan’s best Japanese gardens in Okayama and the traditional city of Kurashiki. Spend the fourth day learning about Hiroshima, then enjoy a day of hiking on the stunning Miyajima island. Finally, make your way back on the Shinkansen to Osaka.
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