Hiroshima (広島)
An extremely emotional, often sad place, but it’s one that must be visited. During World War II, a nuclear bomb destroyed Hiroshima and most places for tourists are related to this. One day is enough here, so most people head back to Osaka or Kyoto after visiting Hiroshima. As much of the spots are free, or almost free, it’s also cheap to visit.
A little bit of history
While best known internationally for upsetting reasons, Hiroshima first began to prosper as a town towards the end of the 6th century. It was on the main transportation route along the south coast, which helped it to prosper. In 1589, a warlord by the name of Mori Terumoto built the castle and named the city Hiroshima. But hundreds of years later, in August 1945, the city was destroyed by an atomic bomb towards the end of World War Two. In later years the city made a surprisingly fast recovery and is now the economic and political capital of the region.
Discount pass: 1 Day Streetcar Pass
Allows unlimited use of trams in the Hiroshima area for one day. The main sites are quite far away from Hiroshima station, so it’s recommended to get this pass and save a little if you don’t want to walk too much. If you want to quickly do Miyajima as well then the ferry can also be added on to the pass, but it would really be pushing it to do it all in one day. Buy from the information desk in front of the Hiroshima station tram stop platform. Adults 600 yen, children 300 yen (120 yen extra for Miyajima Ferry use)
Walk it and save!
If you don’t mind lots of walking, then rather than getting a tram pass you could attempt to walk everywhere. Follow the tram lines from Hiroshima station so you don’t get lost. From Hiroshima station to the Atomic Dome takes 30 minutes along the tracks, then it’s another 20 minutes north to the castle and then another 20 minutes east to the station. There are shopping streets along the way with lots of convenience stores, drug stores and more for cheap drinks and food. It’s a pleasant way to see what a mid-sized Japanese city is like.
Things to do
Atomic Dome (原爆ドーム)
One of the few buildings in central Hiroshima to survive the atomic blast. The first atomic bomb used to attack a city was detonated only 160 meters southwest of the Atomic Dome, then the Hiroshima Prefectural Commercial Products Exhibition Hall. The atomic blast and heat wave completely gutted the building, but amazingly the main structure survived, even though all those inside instantly perished. A somber, but essential visit. FREE • Genbaku Dome-mae tram stop • Google Maps
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park (平和記念公園)
Take some time out here to view the cenotaphs and monuments to those lost in the atomic blast, as well as those hoping for a nuclear-free future. Some stunning pieces of work. FREE • 24h • Across bridge, to the south of Atomic Dome • Google Maps
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum (広島平和記念資料館)
A must visit in Hiroshima, this museum is dedicated to eradicating nuclear weapons and aiming for world peace. A detailed account of what happened after the atomic blast is shown, including the effects of the atomic bomb exposure period. Old pictures, archived films and models help to explain the horrific experience that the city went through. Make sure you have plenty of time to explore this museum. Adults 50 yen, children 30 yen • 8:30am-6pm • South side of Peace Memorial Park • Google Maps
Hiroshima Castle (広島城)
A large castle with interesting castle grounds, the site was designated a National Treasure in 1931. Destroyed by the atomic bomb, it was later rebuilt and a history museum focusing on samurai culture was added. Highly recommended for cherry blossoms. Adults 360 yen, children 180 yen • 9am-6pm (Mar - Nov), 9am-5pm (Dec - Feb) • 10-minute walk north of Kamiyacho-Nishi tram stop • Google Maps
Shukkeien Garden (縮景園)
Created all the way back in the 16th century by a renowned tea ceremony master to serve as a villa and grounds for the feudal lords. Shukukeien Garden has a design that is said to condense the beauty of mountains, rivers and the feeling of Kyoto into one garden. A nice place for a stroll. Adults 260 yen, children 150 yen • Apr - Sept: 9am-6pm, Oct - Mar: 9am-5pm • Shukkeien-Mae station • Google Maps
Volunteer guides and tours
Hiroshima SGG club - [email protected] or (082) 843-9030
Meeting at Hiroshima station (or your hotel if requested), these English speaking guides can take you to the main spots in the city, as well as down to Miyajima. Contact at least 10 days in advance.
Budget food
Most people eat out in Hondori shopping street, which has loads of cool shops and restaurants, plus the usual selection of cheap chain eateries.
Budget restaurants
Ootoya (大戸屋) - Japanese set meals. Sets from 750 yen • 10am-10pm • Down Hondori street and near McDonald’s from Hondori tram stop
Yayoi Iken (やよい軒) - Japanese sets. Meals from 680 yen • 10am-11pm • Near Fukuro-machi
Matsuya (松屋) - Rice bowls and curry. Gyudon bowls from 290 yen • 24h • Kanayama-cho tram stop
Nakau (なか卯) - Gyudon and curry. Bowls from 290 yen. • 24h • Kanayama-cho tram stop
Honke-kamadoya Bento (本家かまどや) - Cheap bento takeaway shop. Bento boxes from 300 yen • Temmacho tram stop • 10am-5pm
Hotto Motto (ほっともっと) - Bento boxes. Bentos from 390 yen • 9am-10pm • From Hiroshima station north exit, head over the car park and bus stop area, then up the road with the Lawson convenience store (near Hiroshima Bank)
Hokka Hokka Tei (ほっかほっか亭) - Bento boxes. Bentos from 399 yen • 9am-10pm • Shukkeien-Mae tram stop
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
MaxValu (マックスバリュ) has a store on the north side of the station (6am-12am). Head past the car park and bus terminal, and the supermarket is in the building with Hiroshima Bank (広島銀行 広島駅北口支店 in Japanese, if you are lost). There is also one in Sogo department store, near Kamiyacho-Nishi tram stop (10am-9pm).
Shopping
Seria (セリア) - Two locations of the 100 yen shop chain, one in the Sogo department store near Kamiyacho-Nishi and the other in the Fukuya department store outside the south exit of Hiroshima station. 10am-8pm
Recommended cheap accommodation
Hostels and guest houses
Backpackers Hostel K’s House Hiroshima
Japanese hostel chain with good prices and many happy customers! Eight-minute walk from Hiroshima station. Dorms from 2600 yen • Google Maps • http://kshouse.jp/hiroshima-e/
J-Hoppers Hiroshima Guesthouse
Friendly hostel with a variety of dorms and private rooms, based in an old ryokan (Japanese hotel) building. Next to the Peace Park. Dorms from 2500 yen • Google Maps • http://hiroshima.j-hoppers.com/
Capsule hotels
Capsule Hotel Cube Hiroshima
Right outside Kanayama-cho tram stop, a walkable distance from the main sites. It has free wifi, clean capsules and female-only areas. Capsules from 2700 yen • Google Maps
Internet cafes
Aprecio (アプレシオ)
Modern internet cafe with a host of seating plans, showers and wifi. Free drinks, as per usual! Night packs (ナイトパック) available from 6pm: 9 hours (9時間パック) 2000 yen, 12 hours (12時間) 2200 yen • Near Hiroshima station south exit, in the amusement complex opposite the post office (5F) • Google Maps
How to get there and away
By rail
If you have a rail pass, take the Shinkansen, otherwise prices are crazily high for such a journey, and the bus is the better option. The Shinkansen takes 4.5 hours from Tokyo, 90 minutes from Osaka (Shin-Osaka) and 100 minutes from Kyoto. Recommended rail passes: Japan Rail Pass, Kansai-Hiroshima Area Pass, Kansai WIDE Area Pass
By bus
Hiroshima is on major bus routes, such as from Tokyo (12 hours, from 6450 yen) or Osaka (6 hours, from 3500 yen) with Willer Bus or JR Bus. Cha
nges may be required in Osaka if coming from the north. Recommended bus pass: Japan Bus Pass
Tourist information (観光案内所)
There are three information centers in Hiroshima station. One is in the underground section from the south exit (9am-7pm), another is just at the south exit (9am-5:30pm) and a final one is on the Shinkansen side (9am-5:30pm).
Miyajima (厳島)
Miyajima is yet another UNESCO World Heritage site near Osaka and Hiroshima. One of Japan’s most popular areas, it offers an easy to access and peaceful rest from the big city. Everything on the island is within walking distance, so it’s a great spot for budget travelers.
Discount pass: Visit Hiroshima Tourist Pass
If you are not using a Japan Rail Pass, or a regional pass, then this pass is a great option, and will at least save you a few dollars. Allows unlimited use of Hiroshima Electric Railway Lines (which can also be used to access Miyajima Guchi station) and the ferry to Miyajima, as well as local buses for three days. Also includes a booklet of discount coupons to various attractions and shops in the area. Available from Hiroshima station (south exit information desk). Small Pass 1000 yen (Hiroshima city and Miyajima), Wide Pass 3000 yen (includes areas around Hiroshima)
Things to do
Otorii Gate (大鳥居)
The icon of Miyajima, this huge red torii gate looks like it’s floating in the sea. It was built 200 meters out to sea, at a height of 17 meters. Come here at 5am-6am to walk under it in low tide, then later in the day to get a photo of it partly submerged in water. FREE • 24h • 10-minute walk south of the ferry terminal • Google Maps
Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社)
Now a World Heritage site, this 1400-year-old shrine complex is built out over the sea. The stand-out style and bold architecture sets this shrine apart from the rest. The combination of forest greenery in the background, Otorii Gate in the distance and the unique structure make for an ultimate photo taking experience. Adults 300 yen (+ Treasure Hall 500 yen), children 200 yen (300 yen) • 8am-5pm • Near Otorii Gate • Google Maps
Itsukushima Shrine Town (厳島門前町)
Full of old-fashioned shops and inns, this town dates back as far as the Kamakura period (1185–1333). Life changes slowly in these parts, and the old town still retains a laid back atmosphere with its family businesses. Tourists now bring in the main income for those that live here. Few minutes south of ferry terminal • Google Maps
Daisho-in Temple (大聖院)
Located at the beginning of the Daisho-in Route up the mountain, this amazing temple complex is skipped by many, but is definitely worth the short walk from town. It used to be one of the most prominent before the Meiji period, so there are lots of historical features to admire. FREE • 8am-5pm • 5-minute walk south of Itsukushima Shrine • Google Maps
Senjokaku Hall (千畳閣)
Also known as Hokoku Shrine, this large wooden hall takes its name from its incredible size, as ‘Sen’ means 1000 and ‘jo’ means tatami mats, so it’s approximately the size of 1000 tatami mats! The shrine was built for chanting Buddhist sutras for fallen soldiers. There is also a small pagoda. 100 yen • 8:30am-4:30pm • Just north across road from Itsukushima Shrine, to the north • Google Maps
Miyajima History and Folk Museum (宮島歴史民俗資料館)
This museum is located in the former home and storehouse of the Egami family, a once wealthy merchant family on the island. It has some interesting displays about the lives of people on the island over the years and some paintings of spots across the island. Also has a surprisingly large wooden spoon, so a good spot for selfie enthusiasts! Adults 300 yen, children 150-170 yen • 8:30am-5pm (closed Mondays and New Year holidays) • 2-minute walk west of Itsukushima Shrine • Google Maps
Hiking up Mount Misen
No need to take the expensive cable car, as there are three well signposted, easy hiking routes up the mountain. A great view greets visitors once they get to the top, but walking through the virgin forest is just as enjoyable. Starting points are shown on the local signs and street maps.
Momiji Dani Route
Takes visitors along the Momiji River, which in autumn is especially beautiful with the golden leaves of the momiji trees, past some oddly shaped rocks and some interesting plant life. Gets quite steep on the second half. Difficulty: Medium • Hike time: 90 minutes to 2 hours
Daisho-in Route
With more than 2000 stone steps up to the summit, this hike up is better for less experienced hikers. Takinomiya Shrine and Shiraito Fall are also interesting spots along the way. Difficulty: Easy • Hike time: 2 hours
Omoto Route
The more challenging of the routes, this one takes hikers through Omoto Park, full of fir trees, before entering Komaga Forest, the second largest forest on the island. Also has a huge rock named Fuji Rock and Iwaya Taisha shrine. Difficulty: Medium • Hike time: 2 hours and 30 minutes
Budget food
Expect tourist prices here, so budget travelers should bring over food from the mainland. If you want to eat out, the old town has some traditional Japanese restaurants, with prices from around 700 to 1100 yen. Basics such as soba, curry rice and ramen are available. There are also a few stalls selling snacks from 200-400 yen, so worth trying some new bites.
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
There is no large supermarket on the island. While there are convenience stores around the ferry terminal on the mainland, there is also a Fresh Box supermarket (フレッシュボックス) a short walk away (9am-8pm). From Miyajima Guchi station, walk down to the right at the main exit, then cross over at the first rail crossing. Take a left, then walk down on the left for a minute or so.
Water bottle refill spots
There are a small number of water fountains spread out in the parks, such as the one outside the ferry terminal. When doing any walking, especially in the summer, bring a large water bottle with you.
Recommended cheap accommodation
Miyajima Guest House Mikuniya
We stayed here on our first trip to Miyajima and found the rooms to be large and clean. Great for large groups and centrally located near Itsukushima Shrine. Dorm beds from 4000 yen • Google Maps • http://miyajimamikuniya.com/
Backpackers Miyajima
A cheaper option, this hostel is back on the mainland, but super close to the ferry terminal. Friendly staff are eager to help travelers. Dorm bed from 2900 yen • Google Maps • http://www.backpackers-miyajima.com/en/
How to get there and away
From Hiroshima station, take the Dentetsu tram to Miyajima Guchi station (69 mins, 270 yen). If using a Rail Pass, take the JR Sanyo Line to Miyajima Guchi station (27 mins, 400 yen without pass). From Miyajima Guchi station, walk to the ferry terminal. Take one of the frequent ferries to Miyajima (10 mins, adults 170 yen, children 80 yen). If you have a Japan Rail Pass, use the JR ferry (free). Recommended rail passes: Japan Rail Pass, Kansai-Hiroshima Area Pass
Tourist information (観光案内所)
Inside Miyajima ferry terminal (9am-6pm).
Himeji (姫路)
Himeji is most famous for its castle, which became a World Heritage site in 1995. It’s worth visiting along the route from Osaka to Hiroshima just for this castle, considered the best in Japan.
Discount pass
Get a combined Himeji Castle and Kokoen Garden pass for 1040 yen, just 40 yen more than the castle ticket. Can be purchased from either location.
Things to do
Castle area
Himeji Castle (姫路城)
A real must-see if you are in Japan, Himeji Castle was first constructed 400 years ago. The recent rebuilding has been done very authentically, and the structure really towers over the city, being called the “white heron castle”. Everyone you meet who has been here will say it’s the grandest castle in Japan. Sitting on a highly elevated platform, Himeji Castle is a huge complex surrounded by some pret
ty gardens, so it’s also great for the cherry blossom season. Adults 1000 yen, children 300 yen • 9am-5pm, until 6pm Apr 27 - Aug 31 (closed New Year holidays) • Google Maps • http://www.himejicastle.jp/en/
Kokoen Garden (好古園)
Until 1992 unopened to the public, this is a Japanese garden located right next to the castle, offering nine unique gardens divided by traditional fortress-like walls, which were constructed using the ruins of the Himeji Castle West Mansion and surrounding samurai residences. It was constructed at the site of the old lord’s residence and is often used for period dramas. Adults 300 yen, children 150 yen • 9am-5pm, until 6pm Apr 27 - Aug 31 (closed New Year holidays) • Google Maps
Walk it and save!
You can access the two main attractions on foot. It’s an easy 15-minute walk up the shopping street north of the station. Otherwise use the Himeji Castle Sightseeing loop bus from Himeji station (100 yen, day pass 300 yen).
Volunteer guides and tours
Himeji Castle English Speaking Guide Group - http://www.i-guide.jpn.org/
Local tour group provides tours around this city, as well as the castle, for a few hours. Contact a few weeks before you arrive.
Volunteer Guide Association of Himeji Castle
Free tours of the castle and Kokoen Garden, usually available every day. Tours can be joined at the guides office near the ticket office.
Mount Shosha (書写山)
This is a 371-meter tall mountain near Himeji, the top of which is full of Buddhist temples of the Tendai sect. The most famous is Shoshazan Engyō-ji (書寫山圓教寺), which is often used when filming historical movies and dramas due to its authenticity and total lack of modern blemishes. Mount Shosha offers an excellent chance to get up in the mountains for just an afternoon or a slow day. Transportation is cheap and easy, plus there is lots to see once you get up there, with all the countless Buddhist temples, small shops and of course vending machines! Difficulty: Medium (easy with ropeway) • Time required: 3-4 hours (half with ropeway)
Super Cheap Japan Page 20