More Diners, Drive-ins and Dives
Page 16
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SO WHADDAYA SAY, DOES IT LOOK LIKE ME?
Photograph by Monte Kruse
Chicken Enchiladas
ADAPTED FROM A RECIPE COURTESY OF BRAD BOGART OF CALIFORNIA TACOS & MORE
The tortilla soaking up the sauce gives this some fantastic flavor.
MAKES 8 LARGE ENCHILADAS
Sauce
4 cups tomato sauce
2 cups water
1 teaspoon onion salt
1 teaspoon sea salt
3 tablespoons ancho chile powder
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon diced chipotle en adobo
Filling
2 quarts (8 cups) water
1½ teaspoons sea salt
3 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
1½ teaspoons cayenne pepper
1½ teaspoons paprika
2 cups canola oil
8 medium flour tortillas
3 to 4 cups shredded Cheddar cheese
1. FOR THE SAUCE: Combine all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan and simmer for 10 minutes. Set aside.
2. FOR THE FILLING: Mix the water and salt in a large skillet or pot and bring to a boil. Add the chicken; if it isn’t covered by water, add a bit more. Reduce the heat and cook at a gentle simmer for 15 minutes, or until just cooked through. Remove the chicken from the water and cool slightly. Shred the chicken and dust it with the cumin, cayenne, and paprika, tossing to coat each piece.
3. Heat the oil in a large pan over medium-high heat. Dip a tortilla in the red sauce, then carefully place it in the hot oil; it should sizzle. Flip it after about 10 to 15 seconds, then remove it about 5 seconds after that. This seals the sauce into the tortilla. Repeat with the remaining tortillas. If you don’t use the tortillas immediately, stack them with plastic wrap between each layer.
4. Preheat the broiler. Put ½ cup chicken on each tortilla and top with ¼ cup shredded Cheddar cheese. Place it under a broiler just to melt the cheese, then roll the tortilla and place it seam side down in a baking dish. Repeat with the remaining tortillas. Top with more cheese and broil until the cheese melts.
THEY MEET EVERY DAY TO TAKE THEIR VITAMIN SHOTS. RIGHT ON!
Photograph by Monte Kruse
MIDWEST
DIXIE QUICKS MAGNOLIA ROOM
EST. 1995 THE GREAT MELTING POT OF HANDMADE FOOD
One of the things you’ve learned, no doubt, on Triple D is to slow it down and keep your eyes peeled, because you’d never want to cruise by a joint you didn’t notice, but you didn’t want to miss. Like here on Leavenworth Street.
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TRACK IT DOWN
1915 Leavenworth Street
Omaha, Nebraska 68102
402-346-3549
www.dixiequicks.com
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There’s no sign, so you’ve got to be in the know. This is eclectic, real food done by a serious chef, René Orduña, who cooked all across the country before coming back to Omaha, where he started out in his parents’ Mexican restaurant. He’s got a little Cajun, a little cosmopolitan, a little Latino influence, a little of everything. The Texas chile pepper steak, for example, is a takeoff on steak au poivre, which typically has green peppercorns, but he’s taking it further with fresh Anaheim, jalapeño, and poblano chiles.
He takes a ten-ounce New York strip—welcome to Omaha; that’s like a business card here—trims it, and gets a little sizzle going with butter, s&p, and red onion; sears it on both sides; then throws a little bourbon on there, flames it (where are the marshmallows, René?), then adds a little beef stock. He then removes the steak to the flattop—wouldn’t want to boil it and overcook it—and finishes the searing. His sauce reduces down; then he adds some cream. Plated atop mashed potatoes, that’s bananas. That pepper trio, the jalapeños are not overpowering, and the whiskey! The cream! I don’t know if it’s the shamalama that puts it in the ding-dong or the ooh in the mow-mow. Out of the top pepper steaks I’ve ever had, that’s gotta be in the top three.
This guy has cooked in New York, San Francisco, New Orleans, and Kansas City. As he says, each place has its own flavors, and those things all married in his head. Like some Louisiana cooking he learned from a chef in New York: blackened salmon with tomato butter (recipe on Blackened Salmon with Tomato Butter). It’s not over-blackened; I would order that once a week—and this at a place I almost drove by cuz I couldn’t find it, biggest mistake I would’ve made.
This guy’s like the Wizard of Oz. This isn’t Kansas, and it’s not Mexico either, but after growing up with Mexican cooking, René’s doing that his own way, too—like a traditional Mexican chicken tortilla soup. He starts with a pico de gallo–type mixture of fine-diced tomato, onion, zucchini, yellow squash, green pepper; as the summer goes on he adds more and more vegetables and it gets nicer and nicer. Then he adds the pepper trio—poblanos, Anaheims, and jalapeños—and chopped cilantro. The base is chicken stock, the juice from the diced tomatoes, and some V8 juice, to which he adds cubed potatoes and chicken, his pico mixture, more cilantro, and salt and pepper. That simmers for about fifteen minutes. I like the confetti of the onions and squash in there. He serves it with a few chips and some slices of avocado. Wow, that’s good. The flavor is so fresh, almost like a hot pico de gallo chicken soup; I mean, it’s not one thing, it’s multiple. And it’s on the menu every day, made fresh, so if you want to win here at Dixie Quicks, you better get here early.
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[GUY ASIDE]
We’re in steak country, Omaha, and I think I’ve seen it all. And here I come rolling into this place—a nondescript medical office or apartment-looking place—and the sign in the window is no more than six by twelve inches. This place is packed, there’s eclectic artwork, and René is such a cool cat, a nice guy; dude loves food. It’s one of those places you’d be proud to know where it is but don’t want to tell anybody about because it will be packed. I enjoyed everything we ate. The steak au poivre (Texas chile pepper steak) is ridiculously good, the salmon, too.
Funny thing: in the final scene of the show I’m talking to René about the pico de gallo chicken soup and something happens and the soup pot gets knocked off the stove and falls on me and burns the back of my leg, gets all over my shorts and onto my flip-flops. So I take off, run through the kitchen, and jump into the pot sink; René is following me, I’m getting cold water onto my leg. It blistered, but not bad, right in the middle of the shot. We laughed after that: wear shorts in the kitchen and you can’t have anything to say.
I heard the day the show aired they were supposed to open in the evening, but René got a call to get down there, there were 150 people in line! The Triple D tidal wave strikes again!
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Blackened Salmon with Tomato Butter
ADAPTED FROM A RECIPE COURTESY OF RENÉ ORDUÑA OF DIXIE QUICKS MAGNOLIA ROOM
He may be from Omaha, but this dude cooks salmon like he’s from the Pacific Northwest.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Tomato butter
4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter
½ cup canned tomato puree
½ teaspoon minced garlic
2 teaspoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Blackened salmon
¾ cup Cajun seasoning blend
½ cup pickling spice
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1½ teaspoons garlic powder
1½ teaspoons dried sage
½ teaspoon dried marjoram
½ teaspoon crushed red chile flakes
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1 (1½ pounds) skinless salmon fillet, sliced on the bias into 8 pieces
2 to 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
YOU KNOW HE’S SERIOUS ABOUT CRAZY FOOD WHEN HE’S WEARING SAFETY GOGGLES.
NOW THAT DUDE IS TAKING A SERIOU
S TRIPLE D BITE!
1. FOR THE TOMATO BUTTER: Put the butter, tomato puree, garlic, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste in a small saucepan. Heat over medium heat just until the butter melts. Remove from the heat and froth with an immersion blender. (Note: René uses the steamer on the cappuccino machine to cook the tomato butter and so can you, if you have one of those!) Keep warm while cooking the salmon.
2. FOR THE SALMON: Combine all the spices and herbs in a small bowl. Lightly coat each piece of salmon with the rub; you will have some of it left over.
3. Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Film the pan lightly with oil. Cook the salmon 1 minute per side, working in batches if necessary. Serve with warm tomato butter.
WEST AND SOUTHWEST
HAUS MURPHY’S
EST. 1996 THE BIERGARTEN OF MY BAVARIAN BROTHER
Here on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives we know no boundaries, not of region, size, or cuisine. As a matter of fact we’ve done Italian, Mexican, American, barbecue—heck, you name it, we’ve done it all, even Chinese-Jamaican fusion. But one we hadn’t done is German, and that brought us here to Glendale, Arizona, to Haus Murphy’s.
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TRACK IT DOWN
5739 W. Glendale Avenue
Glendale, Arizona 85301
623-939-2480
www.hausmurphys.com
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This is hearty food made from scratch, the kind Rose Hoffmann grew up on in Munich, and her husband, Brett, learned from his German grandparents right here in Arizona. Brett’s favorite thing on the menu is his sauerbraten. He trims a big top round with a knife that looks like he should wear it in a sheath and jog through the forest, then bathes it in vinegar and buttermilk—that’s the sour part. Then he adds in a mirepoix and seasonings and marinates it for four or five days, yes, days (recipe on Sauerbraten). He rolls the moisture out and browns it, deglazes with wine, then cooks it down with the marinade. He then strains it and makes a gravy. Grab a beer; it’s like a three-hour deal. There’s a seriously good sweet and sour contrast.
In Germany you sit and socialize and eat for hours, so they encourage people to sit, enjoy, and stay, says Brett. He does bratwurst with sauerkraut; beef rouladen stuffed with onion, bacon, and pickles; house-made spaetzle; and schnitzel done seven different ways. The paprika schnitzel starts with making the gravy. He renders chopped bacon with onion and chicken base, adds Hungarian paprika and water, and lets that simmer. He thickens it up with a fifty-fifty butter and flour roux. Then the white pepper and yellow curry go in (common in German food, he says; who knew?). He flattens the pork in a perforating machine and gives it a dunk in seasoned flour, egg wash, and bread crumbs. Pan-fried in butter and served with the gravy, it’s delicious and has a killer crunch. I’ve had schnitzel, but this is some-a-da-best. Whatever you’re having, this is the undo-your-belt on your lederhosen.
FAKERS—THEY’RE ALL EMPTY! (MUST BE PRACTICING FOR THE BIG DAY!)
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[GUY ASIDE]
I’m still asking my parents if there’s something I need to know. I’ve never felt as much like twins, in the tradition of Schwarzenegger and DeVito, as I did with Brett at Haus Murphy’s. The crew were telling me, wait till you meet this guy. He could dwarf me; he has the same goatee, bleached hair, and outgoing personality. It was the funniest thing in the world. We have a time limit because I have to catch flights, but the timeline wasn’t being followed; he was wrangling me in. Brett is the nicest guy.
If you think you don’t like German food, and you think it’s all hot dogs and bratwurst, then you’re missing it by a mile. They’re doing it right, and it’s popular. They’ve got spaetzle, German potato salad; I was eating the whole time I was there, reaching into pots, opening refrigerators, way beyond what we were doing and eating in front of the camera! The next time Oktoberfest hits, I want to go down there: it’s party central, from beer to atmosphere, music, the whole deal.
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Sauerbraten
ADAPTED FROM A RECIPE COURTESY OF BRETT AND ROSE HOFFMANN, OWNERS OF HAUS MURPHY’S
This is slow food; the meat has to marinate for three to five days. Enjoy the process and you’ll be even more happy with the delicious sweet-and-sour result.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
3 cups buttermilk
1½ cups distilled white vinegar
1½ cups water
8 bay leaves
8 whole cloves
6 celery ribs, chopped
6 carrots, chopped
3 onions, quartered, plus 1½ cups chopped onions
1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning the meat
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper, plus more to taste
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2½ to 3 pounds beef shoulder
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup olive oil
1½ cups red wine
2 ounces (½ stick) unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons gravy flavoring
2 to 3 tablespoons brown sugar
1/3 cup raisins
1. Combine the buttermilk, vinegar, water, bay leaves, cloves, celery, carrots, quartered onions, 1 tablespoon salt, peppercorns, white pepper, and nutmeg in large plastic container. Add the meat and refrigerate, covered, for at least 3 and up to 5 days, turning occasionally.
2. Heat a heavy pot just large enough to hold the meat over medium-high heat. Add the oil. Remove the meat from the marinade, reserving the marinade. Pat the meat dry and season well with salt and black pepper. Add the meat and brown well on all sides. When the meat is well browned, transfer it to a platter. Turn the heat down to medium and cook the onions in the drippings, stirring occasionally, until they start to brown, about 3 minutes.
3. Deglaze the pan with the red wine, letting it bubble for a minute or two and stirring with a wooden spoon to scrape up the brown bits. Return the beef to the pot, pour in the reserved marinade, cover, and simmer until tender, 1½ to 2 hours.
4. Remove the meat from the pot. Strain the marinade and set aside. Discard the vegetables.
5. Add the butter to the pot over low heat, and when melted, add the flour. Whisk until it comes together and bubbles. Slowly whisk in the strained marinade and simmer until thickened. Stir in the gravy flavoring for color. Add the brown sugar a little at a time until the gravy is sweet and sour, and then stir in the raisins. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Slice the meat and heat it for a few minutes in the simmering gravy. Guten Appetit!
DUDE ROCKS “WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE” ON THAT THING!
WEST AND SOUTHWEST
MATT’S BIG BREAKFAST
EST. 2004 THE SIGN SAYS IT ALL
When you’re in downtown Phoenix, Arizona, you’ve just got to check out this little joint. This dude digs breakfast so much he devoted an entire restaurant to it. I had to meet this cat Matt.
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TRACK IT DOWN
801 N. 1st Street
Phoenix, Arizona 85004
602-254-1074
www.mattsbigbreakfast.com
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Matt Pool’s got breakfast basics done the right way, totally from scratch and made with the best ingredients. He doesn’t own a freezer, a microwave, or a mixer. And Matt is making fresh batter three times a day for his waffles; that’s a lot of whisking. His batter’s practically like cake batter, and the waffles come out of the iron like a hiking boot that’s just walked on a pancake: a real hot Frisbee of fun. Matt then picks up Granny’s tea kettle off the flattop to pour you some hot maple syrup. The waffle has a really nice crust to it, and the center’s nice and light and airy; I’d eat it again in a heartbeat.
OWNER’S NOTE: We loved the piece. I really think it captured the spirit of our place. We’ve been crazy since it aired; Guy wasn’t lying. I thought we were busy before, but seriously, every day is like a Saturday or Sunday now. The newspa
per here also wrote a big story about it so people who don’t watch Food Network found out about it. I knew it was a popular show, but it seriously has almost like a cult following—people come to our place straight from the airport now. I just saw that it’s airing a bunch of times in May, so we’ll just keep riding the wave. By the way, I was in the San Francisco area recently and drove down to Pescadero to eat at Duarte’s, the place with the artichoke soup; it was a great place.—Matt Pool
Matt converts non–breakfast eaters with his food—and they wait up to an hour and a half to get into the little spot. He figured that people around there would appreciate a mom-and-pop-style restaurant. He had plenty of memories of going to diners with his dad and just sitting at the counter. So a few years ago he and his wife got a counter of their own, and it filled up quick. Everything has something special about it, like the bacon: he gets it from a local butcher shop, but they don’t deliver, and he pays retail. It’s as thick as a ham steak and has great texture to it. And for the toast: Matt doesn’t like uniformity in bread slices, so he gets the loaf whole, slices it himself, and serves it with some local preserves. As he says, it’s like an open-faced jelly doughnut. And Matt puts fresh rosemary in his home fries, which are cooked in tons of butter—just like the killer hash browns. The salami scramble is made with sopressata that’s brought in special from San Francisco, and he’s even making fresh pesto for his breakfast pork chops (see recipe on Chop and Chick).