Climb to Conquer

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by Peter Shelton


  spying and sabotage in U.S. by, 11

  territorial ambitions, invasions, and occupations of, 9, 12, 18, 24, 26, 27–28, 80, 91–92, 106

  U.S. fears of attack by, 11–13

  Gerow, L. S., 25

  Glen Canyon (Colo.), 242

  Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von, 199

  Goodman, Don, 233

  Good Times and Bad Times, 129

  Gothic Line, 119, 120

  Grand Canyon, 242

  Grand Teton National Park, 244–45

  Grant, 70–71, 117

  Great Britain:

  in North American wars, 3, 12

  in World War II, 12, 27–28, 106

  Greece, Italian invasion of, 24–25, 28

  Green Mountains, 7, 179

  Gronberg, Albert, 96

  Grossglockner, 221, 223

  Guadalcanal, 56

  Gustav Line, 92, 119

  Gypsies, 91

  Hackett, Bill, 100

  Hagemeister, Hans, 233

  Half Dome (Yosemite), 128

  Hall, Sigurd, 42

  Hampton, Chuck, 84, 85, 86, 90, 97, 98, 101–2

  Hampton, Henry, 141

  Hannibal, 62

  Harrer, Heinrich, 88

  Harriman, Averell, 33

  Hastings, Merrill, 231

  Hauser, Hans, 34, 48

  Haute Route, American, 249–51

  Hay, John, 210

  Hays, George Price, 114–16, 125–27, 128, 129, 135, 144, 151, 158, 169–70, 174, 184–85, 188–89, 190, 197, 201, 213, 216, 217, 253

  Healy, Leo, 88, 221

  Herculaneum, 121

  Heron, Robert, 139, 234

  High Conquest: The Story of Mountaineering (Ullman), 221

  Highway 64, 158, 177

  Hill 815, 181

  Hill 889, 181

  Hill 890, 181

  Hill 903, 181, 182

  Hill 909, 181–82

  Hill 913, 181, 182–83

  Hill 915, 181

  Hindeman, Karl, 21

  Hiroshima, atomic bombing of, 224

  Hitler, Adolf, 9, 10, 12, 28, 34, 80, 91, 92

  Final Redoubt threat and, 173, 174, 190–91, 203, 208

  German infrastructure destruction called for by, 92, 193–94

  suicide of, 208

  Holland, Nazi occupation of, 18

  Holy Cross Wilderness (Colo.), American Haute Route in, 249–51

  Hotel Jerome (Aspen, Colo.), 101–2

  “How to Kill a Wilderness” (Brower), 240–41

  Hurt, George, 190

  hypothermia, 99

  I Love a Soldier, 50

  International Federation of Mountain Soldiers (IFMS), 253–54

  Italy:

  “parallel war” strategy of, 24–25, 28

  surrender of, 80, 92, 120, 174, 208–10

  10th Mountain campaigns in, see Craftsman, Operation; Encore, Operation; Garda Lake, 10th Mountain campaign on

  Tripartite Pact and, 18

  Iwo Jima, Marine landing on, 141–42

  Jackman, Albert, 39, 40

  Jackson Hole, Wyo., 99, 244

  Jaegers, 4–5, 13, 15, 18, 39, 64

  James, William, 86

  Japan:

  in Aleutians, 56, 57, 58, 69–79

  Allied invasion planned for, 218, 223–24

  American bombing of, 106, 141–42, 224

  Battle of Midway and, 57–58

  in Battle of Okinawa, 193, 194, 218

  expansionism of, 18, 29

  Pearl Harbor attacked by, 2, 8, 25, 34, 57, 66

  in Philippines, 29, 194

  surrender of, 224

  Jay, John, 18, 31, 35, 36, 39, 40, 49, 51–54, 85, 97–98, 100, 101, 157

  postwar career of, 250–51

  ski films of, 51, 53–54, 100, 252

  Jennings, Dev, 31, 231

  Jennings, John, 1–6, 125, 153–54, 166–67, 172–73, 177, 187, 194–95, 209, 215, 219, 221, 233–34

  Jerome Hotel (Aspen), 101–2, 228

  Jews, Nazi genocidal policies and, 91, 194, 218

  John B. Floyd, 80–81

  Johnny Seesaw’s, 7, 8

  Johnson, Byron, 223

  Johnson, Elmer Wallace, 46–47

  Johnson, Floyd G., 46–47

  Johnson, Richard, 149

  Jones, Lloyd, 114

  judo, 67–68

  K2, 99, 101

  Keegan, John, 87, 214

  Kennerly, Dan, 129, 144, 147–48, 151

  Kennett, James, 194–95

  Kesselring, Albert, 92, 119–20, 166, 174

  Kiska:

  appearance of, 72, 74

  Japanese forces evacuated from, 79

  Japanese garrisoned on Attu and, 56, 57, 58, 69–79

  Kiska, recapture of, 65–82, 189

  American bombing prior to, 72, 73, 78

  bad weather as obstacle in, 73, 74–76

  casualties in, 72, 73, 76–77, 81

  Japanese tunnel systems in, 78–79, 81

  passwords used in, 75

  retreat after, 79–81

  salmon feast at, 78

  task force in, 71, 72

  Knight, Phil, 247–48

  Knowlton, Steve, 31, 80, 216–17, 230–31, 249

  Koch, Howard, 135–36

  Kuril Islands, 43, 81

  Kyushu, Japan, planned Allied attack on, 218, 224

  La Ca, Italy, 131, 137

  Ladd, Alan, 49–50

  Lafferty, Paul, 21, 24, 31

  Lafferty, Ralph, 256

  Landsberg, Germany, 203

  Lang, Otto, 18, 30, 48–50, 66

  Langley, Roger, 8, 13–14, 15, 22

  Leadville, Colo., 55, 102, 245

  Leonard, Dick, 243

  Life, 52

  “Lili Marlene”, German-American sing-along, 182–83

  “limited offensive,” 158–63

  casualties in, 159, 161–62, 231

  German artillery in, 159–63

  prisoners taken in, 166

  Punchboard Hill in, 159–63

  strategy of, 158–59

  LI Mountain Corps, German, 121

  Lindley, Alfred, 22

  Litchfield, Johnny, 49, 226, 227, 228, 254

  Livermore, Robert, Jr., 8, 30, 31

  Livorno, Italy, U.S. military hospital in, 165–66

  Longmire Lodge, 30

  Loose, James, 134, 135, 140–41

  Loudon, Harold, 47

  Lovett, Bud, 4–5

  Low Down, 175

  Luce, Clare Boothe, 169

  Luftwaffe, 121, 180

  in Battle of Britain, 27–28

  Lunday, Phil, 169, 237–38

  MacArthur, Douglas, 91, 194, 218

  McClure, Worth, 137

  McCown, John, 136–37

  MacKenzie, Mac, 152

  McLane, Charles, 25, 36

  Magnifico, Mike, 227, 231

  Magrath, John, 181–82

  Malandrone Pass, 160, 161

  Malcesine, 199, 200, 202, 208

  Mancinello-Campiano Ridge, see Riva Ridge

  Mangart, Mount, MTG ski race on, 220

  Manual of Ski Mountaineering (Brower, ed.), 23–24, 46, 84, 250

  Marine Fox, 224

  marketing, for 10th Mountain recruitment, 51–54

  Marshall, George C., 15, 19–20, 25, 71, 107–8, 116

  Matt, Toni, 33, 82

  Matterhorn (Monte Cervino), 221–22

  Mauldin, Bill, 163, 186

  media, 48–54

  Midway, Battle of, 57–58

  Milan, Italy, 204

  Miller, Frank, 154

  mines, minefields, 81, 122–23, 147–48, 179–80

  “Minnie’s Ski Troops”, see 87th Mountain Infantry Regiment, U.S.; 10th Mountain Division, U.S.

  Monsen, Rolf, 20

  Monte Belvedere, 1–2, 121

  in Operation Encore, see Monte Gorgolesco, capture of; Riva Ridge, taking of

  strategic importance of, 121

  Monte Cape
l Buso, 126, 136, 139

  Monte Cassino, Battle of, 119, 217

  Montecatini, Italy, Allied rest center in, 166, 167, 168, 169

  Monte della Torraccia, capture of, 153, 156, 158, 171, 181

  Monte Gorgolesco, capture of, 144–53

  casualties in, 147–48, 149, 150, 151–52, 155, 156, 168, 181

  earlier Allied attempts at, 121, 145

  fear in, 153–54

  German counterattacks in, 146–47, 149–53, 154, 155

  guns in, 144, 145, 146, 150–51

  minefields in, 147–48, 155

  prisoners in, 152, 155, 156–57

  Monte Mancinello, 126, 135

  Monte Serrasiccia, 126, 132, 134, 135, 136, 253

  Monte Terminale, 158

  Morgan, John E. P., 19

  Morrell, Nate, 85, 118

  Mountain and Winter Warfare Board, 89, 233

  mountaineers, mountaineering:

  in golden age of alpinism, 52

  nylon rope and, 88–89, 127–28, 243

  as sport imitating war, 87, 128, 214–15

  of 10th Mountain in Alps and Dolomites, 218–24

  traditional vs. “extreme,” 86–87

  wilderness lands invaded through, 243–44

  Mountain Fighters, 50

  Mountainfilm Festival (Telluride, Colo.), 237

  Mountain Training Group (MTG), 4, 5, 34, 35, 50, 62, 64, 67, 83–86, 87–88, 93, 136, 220

  Aspen hike of, 97–104

  detached assignments of, 95–97, 100–101

  dissolution of, 108, 109

  rank in, 5, 64

  Mount Moran, 244

  movies, 48–52, 53–54

  Muir, John, 20, 241

  mules, 35, 59, 62, 104, 108, 138, 155, 183

  Mussolini, Benito, 24, 28, 80, 120, 124, 199, 203–4, 206

  Naples, Bay of, 121

  Naples, Italy, 121–22

  National Outdoor Leadership School, 239, 246

  National Park Service, 30, 37–38, 53

  National Ski Areas Association, 230

  National Ski Association (NSA), 8, 13

  services of, offered to War Department, 13, 19

  Voluntary Winter Defense Committee of, 22–24

  National Ski Patrol System (NSPS), 8, 20

  membership of, 15, 66

  origin of, 14–15

  10th Mountain recruitment and, 46–48, 53, 54, 104

  War Department offered services of, 15, 19–20

  Nazi Spies in America (Turrou), 11

  Nelson, Morley, 252

  New Guinea, in World War II, 91

  newsmagazines, available to overseas servicemen, 168–69

  New Yorker, 25–26

  New York Times, 229

  Nice Goin’: My Life on Skis (Pfeifer), 103, 227

  Nike, founding of, 247–48

  90th Panzer Division, German, 179, 183–84

  91st Infantry Division, U.S., 171, 178

  92nd Infantry Division, U.S. (Buffalo Division), 121, 172, 176

  94th Panzer Division, German, 179, 184

  “Ninety Pounds of Rucksack,” 36–37

  Nitze, Paul, 228

  Normandy invasion, see D-Day

  North Apennines and Beyond (Dusenbery), 208, 218

  North Pacific Combat School (NPCS), 82

  Norway, 18, 19, 32, 42, 43, 106

  Office of Strategic Services (OSS), 174

  Officer Candidate School (OCS), 110

  Okinawa, Battle of, 193, 194, 218

  Olympic, Operation, 218

  Olympic Mountains, Army ski patrol exercises at, 21

  Olympics, Winter, 8, 20, 30, 230–31

  126th Engineer Battalion, U.S., 148, 169, 200, 249

  aerial tramways built by, 138–40, 234

  Po River crossing and, 189, 190

  “Oola and Sven,” 93–94

  Ord, Fort, 67–70

  Overlord, Operation, 43, 91, 106, 109, 115

  over-the-snow vehicles, 95

  P-47 dive-bombers, 180

  Pacific Command, Aleutian Task Force 9 of, 71

  Paepcke, Elizabeth, 227, 228, 229

  Paepcke, Walter, Aspen development and, 227–29

  Pando, Colo., 45

  Pando hack, 55, 86

  Paradise Lodge, 30, 37–38, 52, 66

  Parker, Bob, 59–61, 63, 77–78, 81, 85, 92–93, 95, 102, 104, 110, 111, 124–25, 144, 157, 160–62, 165–72, 174, 183, 187, 199, 207, 209, 215–16, 221, 229–30, 237, 238, 239

  postwar career of, 231–32, 239, 250, 254

  Parker, Jacques, 132, 134, 135, 136, 137–38, 213–14

  postwar career of, 239

  Patton, George, 173

  Pearl Harbor attack, 2, 8, 25, 34, 57, 66

  Peckett’s-on-Sugar-Hill (N.H.), 16, 66

  Pennsylvania, 72

  Peregrine Fund, 252

  Perrault, Joe, 231

  Petacci, Clara, 203, 204

  Petzoldt, Paul, 64, 109, 110, 237, 239

  in MTG Aspen hike, 98–100

  postwar career of, 244–46

  Pfeifer, Friedl, 33–34, 36, 64, 66, 85, 89, 103–4, 182, 183, 225–29, 230, 234, 239, 248, 249, 254

  Philippines, 29, 194

  physical fitness, national craze for, 247

  Piccola Cima, 222

  Pierpont, John, 168, 169–70, 209

  Pieve, Italy, 123

  Pingree, Stanley, 47

  Pisa, Italy, 122

  Pius XII, Pope, 167

  Pizzo di Campiano, 126, 136

  Plattsburgh, Battle of, 3, 12

  Poland:

  blitzkrieg and, 9, 12, 13

  Nazi-Soviet partitioning of, 9

  Pompeii, 121

  Po River, 185, 188–90

  Po River Valley, 119, 120, 158, 166, 176, 177–78, 184, 185, 218, 219–20

  Poschman, Harry, 61–62, 63, 64, 65–77, 80–81, 85, 93, 106, 109, 117–18, 132, 144–45, 146–51, 154, 156, 157, 158, 162–64, 167–68, 169–70, 172, 178, 180, 191, 195–97, 208–9, 220, 223, 238–39, 243

  postwar career of, 234

  Prager, Walter, 18, 32–33, 49, 64, 85, 220, 231

  Professional Ski Instructors of America, 230

  propaganda:

  German, 123, 171, 175, 216

  U.S., 175–76

  Punchboard Hill, 159–60

  PW passports, 175–76

  Quick, Horace, 82

  Rainier, Mount:

  Army ski patrol exercises at, 21

  87th Mountain Infantry Regiment based at, 29–42, 48, 52, 53, 66

  mountaineering and skiing on, 29–30, 38–42

  Rangers, U.S., 73

  rapelling, off hotel walls, 102, 113

  raptors, 252

  Rear Echelon Crows, soldiers’ disdain for, 170

  recreation, outdoor, postwar boom in, 238, 250

  Remount Blue (Brower), 143, 180–81, 200–201, 214

  Resia Pass (Passio di Resia), 210

  Rideout, Percy, 226, 227, 228

  Riva, 206, 207, 208

  Riva Ridge, 128, 171

  appearance of, 126

  German observation position on, 126, 127, 133

  Riva Ridge, taking of, 125–42, 184, 214

  American defensive positions set up in, 135

  battalion headquarters in, 131, 135

  battle in, 136–41

  casualties in, 136, 137, 141, 181

  as censored news story, 142

  communications in, 135, 136

  evacuation of wounded in, 138–39

  Hays’s charge to troops in, 129, 151

  initial German encounters in, 134–35

  intensive training for, 128

  prisoners in, 137–38, 141

  reenactment on 50th anniversary of, 253–54

  resupply in, 138–40, 234

  routes fixed prior to, 127–28, 132, 134, 135, 136, 139

  significance of, 141

  staging area for, 131–32

  troop fears and, 132 />
  troop vulnerability in, 132–33

  weather conditions in, 133–34

  Robinson, Bestor, 18, 22, 23–24, 46, 60, 86–87

  Rocca Roffeno, 181

  Roch, André, 97, 103

  Roch Run, in Aspen, Colo., 97, 102–3, 226, 228–29

  Rogg, Hans, 232

  Rolfe, Onslow S., “Pinkie,” 30–31, 35, 39

  Romania, Nazi occupation of, 18

  Rome, in World War II, 119, 120, 163, 167–68

  Rommel, Erwin, 80

  Roosevelt, Franklin Delano, 15, 17, 91

  death of, 177

  in secret end-of-war negotiations, 174

  ropes, nylon, 88–89, 127–28, 133, 243

  rope tows, 16–17, 226

  Royal Air Force (RAF):

  in Battle of Britain, 27–28

  Germany bombed by, 56

  Royal Canadian Army, Pacific Command of, 71

  Ruffner, David, 62, 63, 208, 252

  running movement, U.S., 247

  Rybizka, Benno, 18

  St. Anton, 48, 50, 103, 226

  Saint-Germain, Treaty of (1919), 199

  San Benedetto Po, 10th Mountain march to, 185–88

  San Diego Ski Club, 66

  San Gorgonio Mountain (Calif.), conservation of, 243

  Sardy, Tom, 226

  Saturday Evening Post, 52, 82

  Schneider, Hannes, 17, 18, 50

  Schuh mines, 148

  Scrambles amongst the Alps: 1860–69 (Whymper), 52

  Sea Lion, Operation, 27–28

  II Corps, U.S., 188, 190

  Seibert, Pete, 229, 231, 232, 248, 254

  Seneca Rocks, W.Va., Army climbing school at, 95, 113

  Senger, Fridolin Rudolph Theodor von, 179, 183, 216–17, 218

  Seventh Army, U.S., 203, 210

  7th Infantry Division, U.S., 71

  17th Infantry Regiment, U.S., 71

  Shelley, Percy Bysshe, 199, 214, 219

  Shiprock Peak (N.Mex.), ascent of, 87

  showers, G.I., at Montecatini, 169–70

  Sierra Club, 23, 46, 239, 241, 242, 243, 246, 250

  Sierra Nevada mountains, 241–42

  Signal Corps, U.S., 49, 51

  6th South African Armored Division, 177–78

  skiers, skiing, U.S.:

  backcountry, 243, 249–51

  booms in, 16–18, 30, 225–33, 234, 235, 248–51

  class and, 16, 17

  commercialization of, 248–49

  foreign instructors and, 16, 17–18, 33–34, 48–49, 66

  organized, at Mount Rainier, 30

  and ski schools and resorts, 16, 17, 18, 30, 33–34, 48–49, 51, 66, 97, 101–4, 139, 225–33, 234, 235, 248–50

  war-surplus gear and, 232–33

  wilderness lands invaded by, 243

  Winter Olympics and, 8, 20, 30, 230–31

  see also cross-country skiing; ski jumping

  Ski Flight, 49

  ski gear:

  10th Mountain veterans as manufacturers and distributors of, 233

  war-surplus, 232–33

  Ski Here, Señor, 51–52, 53

  Ski Heritage (Lund), 230

  Ski Industries America, 230

 

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