Romancing the Roads

by Gerry Hempel Davis

  Biltmore Hotel Oklahoma

  401 S. Meridian Ave.

  405-947-7681

  www.biltmoreokc.com

  How it happened: I called information (old-fashioned as it sounds) for a Biltmore Hotel that I thought might be of interest to include in the book. I was given a Biltmore number and called it, only to find out that it was in Oklahoma! (Not the state I had in mind!) By chance I was speaking with the general manager, William Davis. Because of our shared last name, we become phone pals. He said, “You really should visit our property.” That’s the short version of the serendipity.

  Chain of events: Mr. Davis sent me a brochure: “Biltmore Hotel: Oklahoma’s Largest Hotel Conference Center.” It looked safe, and Mr. Davis was convincing. I schedule a stop. I was also to learn (via the Internet) that the amenities were numerous, the hotel was absolutely pet friendly, and many said that, with its rustic elegance, the hotel was the “best kept secret.” I was on my way.

  I drove north from Dallas on I-35 to Oklahoma City. After the flatlands of the Dallas area, the scenery begins to get more hilly. It is an easy drive, and at around 1 p.m., I was in Oklahoma.

  FYI: In my notes of personal minutiae, I see that arriving in Oklahoma I had traveled 8,097.6 miles so far on that particular odyssey. After all these traveled miles, my car needed some grooming. I didn’t know what my namesake might think of my messy car, so I stopped at a rest stop.

  Oklahoma Discoveries and Observations: Back on the interstate, I passed Braum’s Ice Cream (www.braums.com). There were lots of cars, and it was only 3:12 p.m. Hmmm. Again, I should have stopped, but I didn’t. I have since researched Braum’s, and what a story.

  This family business was started in Emporia, Kansas. It was a small butter- and milk-processing plant that then added ice-cream processing. The wholesale part of the business was sold, and the family began specializing in ice cream. It was not long before the company had retail ice cream stores in Oklahoma—with processing still in Kansas. The next move was to bring everything to Oklahoma, and now there are over forty thousand acres—that’s sixty-two square miles of purportedly some of the very best farm and ranch land in America.

  In addition to the ice creams and dairy products sold in the retail stores, a bakery produces bakery items for the stores. There are 280 Braum’s Ice Cream and Diary Stores in Oklahoma, Kansas, Texas, Missouri, and Arkansas. Braum’s is the only major ice-cream maker in the country that milks its own cows—ten thousand of them! It is the largest milking herd and milking parlor of its kind in the world. The cows are milked three times a day, twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week. I am in awe!

  Needless to say, the next time I see a Braum’s Retail Shop, I am stopping, diet or no diet. I passed the Oklahoma Horseshoeing School, and then a sign announced that I was in Norman. I remember a beau (we were both in our late teens) who was flying in the navy and stationed there, writing me from this place that sounded so far away from my New York City life.

  At 4:15 p.m., I arrived in the area and began looking for the Biltmore Hotel Oklahoma. Not realizing I had passed it, I continued down the road to discover more in the immediate area. I found some aviation history and lots of motels.

  Will Rodgers World Airport

  7100 Terminal Dr.

  405-316-3262

  www.flyokc.com

  Ninety-nines Museum of Women Pilots

  4300 Amelia Earhart Rd.

  405-685-9990

  www.museumofwomenpilots.com

  Backtracking, I found the Biltmore, and I immediately knew it was nice and friendly, cowboy casual and clean. The brochure is a little more airbrushed than what my eyes saw—but that was alright.

  Checking in was easy, with no rigmarole. My room was plain and simple but comfortable. I had been invited for a drink at around 5 p.m. with Mr. Davis and his friends, who, I was to learn, were “the regulars.” I decided to see a bit more of the area before joining “the boys.” I drove around and decided to stop at Sheplers, “The World’s Largest Western Stores.”

  Sheplers

  812 S. Meridian

  405-947-6831

  www.sheplers.com

  Well, slap my jeans, straighten my bandana, and secure my hat—this is one big store! There is western apparel in every size, shape, and color. I learned that there are twenty retail locations in eight states, and the catalogue business is big. Their guarantee is, “You have our handshake on it.” Right on, guys.

  Then, it was time to meet the boys, whom I found in one of their favorite positions—seated at the bar, beverage of choice in hand, and fun on their lips. I joined the group, and we talked about “them and me.” Linda, the major hotel assistant, was also in the group, so I wasn’t the only woman. What fun those boys were, and it was obvious what fun they had. Each one sounded—from talk—very successful. They seemed to have their afternoon ritual down pat. Some left relatively soon, and others stayed. I left in the middle, went back to my room, and organized for the next day.

  I was told that, oh my! the next day the Hall of Fame Cowboys would be arriving. No way! I said to myself, and I wouldn’t be there! The next morning, I said good by to Linda and Mr. Davis, and I was sincere when I said, “Thank you so much and maybe another visit in the future.”

  If you are in the Oklahoma City area, spend a night at the Biltmore. There is a lot to discover in the area.

  I-40 was easy to find and proved a good road. I passed lots of green fields and farms. After about an hour of driving, I drove by Okemah. Something about this place smiled at me as I passed. I know that sounds crazy. Maybe the thousands of miles of driving were affecting me. This area is definitely Indian land, and from my vantage, I discerned that it was probably very good hunting land.

  FYI: Two thousand miles later, while transcribing my scribbled notes, I decide to look up Okemah. Meaning “things up high,” Okemah is named for a Kickapoo Indian chief and is expected to look up and live up to his name. The town, incorporated in 1903, is the home of Woody Guthrie.

  Continuing down the interstate, I saw the enormous, twelve-hundred-acre Lake Eufaula (www.lakeeufaula.com), one of Oklahoma’s top fishing lakes. Why not stop and do a little fishing—if you have a fishing rod? String and a hook sometimes suffice—if you just want to see what you might catch.

  The interstate is good but be prepared for long stretches without services.

  Two Places I Saw:

  Sallisaw: From the highway you can see this is a big area with lots of shops, industry, schools, and so forth. One ad read, “Sedation Dentists: Sallisaw, Oklahoma.” That is a first for me.

  Sequoyah: There is a big truck stop diner.

  Texas

  Driving Diva Tip: Texas is a big state and has long stretches of highway with few services. Be sure to fill the gas tank (and your stomach) whenever possible. You don’t want to be stranded or driving on an empty stomach, which can make one very drowsy.

  Small-Town Stops

  I-40 is good. The drive from Santa Fe, New Mexico, to Dallas, Texas, heading east and then south, can be done in a day, but it’s a long haul. In Amarillo, you get on U.S. 287 from I-40, a good road that takes you through some delightful and interesting towns.

  Clarendon (population approximately 2,067) offers the visitor or resident a 1929 Landmark Subs & Sodas, Coyote Den Books, and the It’ll Do Motel.

  Hedley (population approximately 391) has tempting fruit stands. Don’t miss the big signs for peaches.

  Memphis (population approximately 2,465) has antique shops and a tearoom.

  Childress (population approximately 6,664) is the area’s point for shipping and supplies for the neighboring grain and cattle ranches. Proudly displayed as you drive through town is a sign that reads, “Hometown of Roy Cooper, Eight Times World Champion Calf Roper.” Other sights include the Restwell
Motel (perfect name!), an All Handmade Quilts store, a Dollar General Store, Morgan’s Catfish Diner (at least I think that was the name), and a sign for the Heritage Museum. In its heyday, this must have been quite a town.

  Iowa Park (population approximately 6,000) looked at first, I thought, like cattle ranch; then my bleary eyes (it was 7 p.m.) focused on the cattle. I did a double take and laughed out loud. The cattle were camels.

  Driving Diva Factoid: The signage into Dallas could definitely be more defined. Be alert.

  Dallas (Population Over 1 Million)

  Dallas’s more than 384 square miles have grown since the city’s beginning in 1839. In the 1980s Fortune magazine named Dallas the number one business center in the land. Driving might be a bit of a challenge for the visitor. Heading south from Wichita Falls, as I neared Dallas, repeat, I definitely found the signage confusing, and more would have been helpful. Several interstates and U.S. highways take you into Dallas. I am certain a few small roads, and possibly some dirt roads, also lead into the Big D.

  I am usually in Dallas in the summertime and, needless to say, have found it hot, quiet, and in some ways relaxed. This is probably due to the heat, but there is always purpose, determination, upscale demeanor, and fun in Dallas. Of course, glamour and glitz are omnipresent, and aside from the occasional street person, which is a universal concern, I have found most aspects of Dallas extremely nice, though it does help to have deep pockets. This big city has a lot of small-town ambiance, and it is hard not to have a good time here.

  The downtown area is enjoying a revival after undergoing a bit of a slump. I adore this part of Dallas. Here you will find the Adolphus Hotel, Neiman Marcus, the Dallas Art District (www.thedallasartsdistrict.org), the Historic West End District (www.dallaswestend.org), and lots more. Don’t forget about all the museums, galleries, and malls. The downtown museum dedicated to the 1963 Kennedy assassination is located in the Texas School Book Depository, where Lee Harvey Oswald fired the fatal shots. As with most spots that have changed history, this building definitely sends chills through the body.

  Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza

  411 Elm St.

  214-747-6660

  www.jfk.org

  Hotels

  Adolphus Hotel

  1321 Commerce St.

  214-742-8200 or 800-221-9083

  www.hoteladolphus.com

  This grand, luxurious, and historic hotel in downtown Dallas is one of the finest hotels. It has old-world charm with class and style. It is a treasure. If—I repeat if—a hotel could be perfect, the Adolphus would certainly rank among such a rarefied group.

  The Adolphus’s history starts in 1912. Woodrow Wilson was president. The Boston Red Sox won the World Series. The fourth down was added to U.S. football, and a touchdown was valued at six points. Picasso was the talk of the art world, and the Titanic sank.

  The youngest of twenty-one children, Adolphus Busch (born 1839), at the age of twenty-one married, Lilly Anheuser of St. Louis. This marriage merged two names that would become indelible in the world of beers. Adolphus became a successful St. Louis businessman and was convinced by representatives of the Dallas Chamber of Commerce to build a first-rate hotel. This would be the first expansion of the Anheuser-Busch empire outside St. Louis. There are many stories as to why this St. Louis businessman decided to build in Dallas. Some are political; some just say that he wanted to thank the people of Dallas for supporting his beer. Regardless, it was a coup for Dallas.

  Driving Diva Factoid: Architectural turrets crown the building; some say they look like beer steins. You look and see.

  As you arrive at the Adolphus, you always receive a most welcoming greeting. The main desk is well attended with efficient, friendly, and knowledgeable staff. The hallways are well defined, and finding your room after the initial introduction by the bellman is easy.

  The rooms are comfortable and very attractive. Of course, a property the size of the Adolphus offers many types of accommodation to choose from. You will not be disappointed.

  The main floor is truly a museum of sorts. Art surrounds you on every wall, and the beautiful furniture is magnificent. The large, early Flemish tapestries are impressive. The Steinway piano is played, and sitting in this beautiful setting, it is not hard to enjoy and to reflect on life in a bygone era.

  Important: Obtain an art guide booklet, and tour the magnificent downstairs areas.

  Consider enjoying Saturday afternoon tea in the lobby. A tradition at the Adolphus, it truly adds to the old-world ambiance. Tea at the Adolphus is an event. To quote one of the hotel’s announcements, which says it so well, “The perfect place to experience the decadent traditions of this classical afternoon respite.” The Adolphus offers an assorted choice of teas that complement three courses.

  First course: At least five types of miniature sandwiches

  Second course: Assorted miniature pastries

  Third course: Assorted chocolate truffles

  Piano music permeates the air as you sip your tea, enjoy a scone or two, and relax in this exquisite setting. The cost is approximately $38 per person plus tax and gratuity. Tea schedules change with the holidays, so call to check the agenda.

  Perfection and beauty are synonymous with the exquisite, award-winning French Room. From the hand-blown crystal chandeliers to the marble flooring to the period furnishings to the shining silverware, everything is beautiful. The menu is exceptional. James Donahue is the maître d’, and Marcos Segovia is the chef de cuisine. The French Room is first-rate and upscale in every way. Reservations are a must, and I was told they are often made from season to season as many guests make the French Room dining experience a tradition. To dine in the French Room is outstanding. Jackets are required for the men, and ties are optional. (I think the latter should be rescinded.) Thank goodness denim and sneakers are prohibited. The French Room is closed Sunday and Monday.

  The Bistro, open for breakfast and lunch, provides a special, casual ambiance that is done properly. It is beautiful, well appointed, and luxurious. You cannot help but enjoy.

  The Rodeo Bar and Grill is so western and so Dallas, serving hamburgers, Tex-Mex favorites, barbecue, and all those good types of fare with all the trimmings. It’s open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

  The Adolphus Hotel’s executive chef is Marcus Strietzel. Speak with the concierge and find out about the Adolphus’s complimentary limo service for short rides.

  At any grand hotel that has maintained its prominence, credit must be given to its long-lasting staff. For over twenty years, David Davis has guided the public relations and marketing in a most exemplary fashion. He should be cloned. Kevin Henry has been resident manager for twenty-nine years, and James Donahue has been maître d’ at the French Room for twenty-five years.

  There is little doubt in my mind that you will be marking off the days till you will return to the Adolphus. It is special.

  The Joule

  1530 Main St.

  214-748-1300

  www.thejouledallas.com

  “Unique,” “luxurious,” and “exceptional” are just a few of the adjectives one could apply to this new downtown hotel. To me, one of the special aspects of this property is that it encompasses the 1920’s Dallas National Bank building and has an adjoining ten-story tower of 129 guest rooms and suites. To use or reuse the old in the new, I applaud. The pièce de résistance at the Joule is the cantilevered pool on the tenth floor that juts eight feet over the sidewalk! At night, this pool displays a light show from the 132 fiber-optic lights in the pool. Adam D. Tihany’s talents and creativity are seen throughout the hotel, and Charlie Palmer’s delicious gastronomical creations are enjoyed by all at his restaurant.

  This property, from every syllable I have heard, is sumptuous, chic, totally enjoyable, and probably awesome. I look forward to seeing the
Joule, whose name refers to a unit of energy.

  Observation: I know downtown Dallas, and I think that the Joule will spur the renaissance into overdrive.

  Rosewood Crescent Hotel (formerly Hotel Crescent Court)

  400 Crescent Ct.

  214-871-3200

  www.crescentcourt.com

  Rosewood Crescent Hotel is a stately and large building with an impressive courtyard. It is definitely luxurious, big, and nice, but not extremely warm and fuzzy—but then, I don’t think Buckingham Palace is either. The attendants are well trained, and many await your arrival. Be sure to call for directions as it can be a bit confusing finding the hotel.

  Driving Diva Tip: At grand hotels, it is normal for two or three attendants to be at your side with beaming smiles to carry your bags from the car to the room. They may even park the car. Don’t be afraid to tip all the smiling faces. I believe that tips should be given to all who perform a service, be it one or seven, but not those who smile and just tag along.

  Check-in was efficient. Everyone who greeted me was helpful and courteous. The lobby is large and definitely Texas-grand in decor. The lobby has marble floors, high vaulted ceilings, big columns, floor-to-ceiling windows, and limestone walls. There are impressive furnishings too.

  In the lobby is Beau’s—obviously a place to see and possibly be seen. It is a most attractive cocktail lounge.

  There are several dining choices. I am told that Nobu (214-252-7000) is one of the most innovative, new-style Japanese restaurants in America. There is the Crescent Gourmet, a convenient deli and coffeehouse—my type of place. In the morning, for breakfast and also lunch, the Conservatory overlooks the courtyard. A Starbuck’s is also on property.

  This impressive property has 191 guest rooms. The bedding during my stay had a high linen thread count of 480, and the bath linens were 100 percent cotton. The living room area with a bar and TV was attractive, but the placement of the TV/entertainment center was off. In my room it was not comfortable to watch the TV, as the screen was at a strange angle to the bed.