Romancing the Roads
Page 10
Mona’s expression turned to sadness as she said, “Oh, I turned on the air conditioner for you this morning.” I started to say that I would be glad to pay for a night, but something sealed my lips. We chatted, Mona shared a few local details, and I said that we were going to venture into town and explore before we settled in. My friend and I returned to the car to decide on our plan. We voted that Mona was too nice. We couldn’t let her down. I truly wanted to see our accommodations and everything about the Turkey Hotel.
We spent the rest of the afternoon driving on long, straight roads where we saw only an occasional pickup truck, a stray cow, and lots of dust. We made it to Caprock Canyon, a pretty place to visit and home to the remaining original free-roaming bison herd belonging to Col. C. Goodnight.
We sensibly turned around and returned to the hotel before dark. A stop at the Turkey Gas Station and Store was an experience. My friend, a gourmet chef and former hotel owner, decided to go into the store to find our dinner fixings—maybe just some heavy munchies to go with our traveling vino. I waited in the car, and a few minutes later, laughing from head to toe, she walked out of the store holding a small bag and a stalk of bent-over yellow celery.
“I don’t think it will poison us,” my chef friend said. “We’ll have a good drink for sure.” We headed back to the hotel.
Mona was waiting. We followed her to our room. Along the stairs and in the hallway of the second floor were more mannequins dressed in period clothing. Our room was decorated with memorabilia. I washed my face and hands, and as we headed back downstairs, I admit, I peeked behind a few unlocked doors in the hallway. I saw more creatively decorated rooms. Mona had been joined by her granddaughter. Mona looked so young. The two “girls” showed us out to the very pleasant back garden. We brought a glass of wine downstairs as well as our “groceries.” It was really very nice, sitting in the garden, debating about our hors d’oeuvres, and reflecting on our day. I was glad to have stayed, and the next event underscored this feeling. The birds were chirping; the air was cooling. Mona and her granddaughter came out, and we all shared stories. They went into the house and suddenly return with a big tray. Mona had prepared dinner for us! They were so happy to share and, oh! did I feel like a jerk for my previous thoughts. Eat your hearts out, fancy-schmancy hotels. This is real, genuine hospitality. It was wonderful. We all talked for quite a while, and Mona revealed that she, her husband, and their children had lived not far from Turkey. Her husband had had, I think, a radio station. One of her daughters was a country-western singer. Her granddaughter was finishing school. Before we went upstairs, Mona told us about the breakfast selections. “I’ll just have some juice—fruit if it’s available, a piece of toast or muffin, and some coffee. I really don’t eat much in the morning—especially when traveling.” My friend decided to have a bit more.
Up to our room we went. The evening shower was cooling, and the bed was comfortable. I was glad the air-conditioning had been turned on. As I looked around the room at the memorabilia, I wished it all could talk. My eyes quickly shut, and without a toss or turn, I awoke as morning was dawning.
Chatting at breakfast was most pleasant as we learned more about the area. This place would be a fantastic major corporate retreat and hunting camp. “I like that idea” said Mona.
It was time to leave. We all hugged. It had been a treat and an experience to be in Turkey, Texas, at the Turkey Hotel.
Update: As stated, Cody Bell now owns the Turkey Hotel. The mannequins and decorative tidbits have gone. A lot has been done to the hotel, as I discovered when I spoke with René Valdez. He and his wife, Marsha, manage the hotel and are glad to be back in Turkey rather than Houston.
Driving out of Turkey, one sees very attractive wrought iron signs on the sides of the road, some with turkeys, birds, and trees, stating, “Turkey, Texas, Home of Bob Wills.” Another showed seven male figures playing musical instruments with the same statement. I also discovered that Turkey has a 1950s-style drive-in movie theater open in the summer.
Leaving Turkey on Route 86: Turn off onto I-70 North; then take Highway 287 North through Clarendon to Amarillo. Eventually you connect back up with I-40. Yes! Back on an interstate and into the hubbub of progress!
Observation: It is not hard to appreciate tiny towns and to acknowledge their way of life. We all have the same basic life functions; the residents of these towns watch the same TV shows you do and like many of the same things. They are, in ways, inspirational, and you can learn a lot, even if the population numbers fewer than five hundred. You may not want the life of denizen of a tiny town, and those denizens probably do not want yours—but both can give and share so much.
Amarillo (Population over 150,000)
Heading west, Amarillo is the last major Texas town before you cross the border into New Mexico. See the New Mexico chapter for places in New Mexico near the Texas border.
To Houston on I-10
The road was as expected. There are several places of real interest on the Gulf of Mexico, such as Galveston, but I did not have time on this trip to stop. Next time.
Houston
Houston, this country’s fourth-largest city, is nice, and I was impressed. Driving toward the city, the skyline was arresting. I found Houston to be a big city with a small-town ambiance of camaraderie. In some of the residential areas, Texas wealth was not in question.
Hotel Icon
220 Main St.
713-224-4266
www.hotelicon.com
I drove into the garage, and two attendants approached the car. One said, “Greetings, Ms. Davis.” Caught off guard and slightly snowed by the greeting, I returned their smiles. The attendants looked at my stuffed car, and I could read their thoughts on their faces. They were obviously relieved when I said I would only need two bags. I asked if my car could be parked close by, and they pointed to a spot a stone’s throw away. Perfect.
I walked into the hotel and was immediately impressed. The fact that it was once a big Texas bank can easily be perceived, especially when you are at the desk checking in and notice the big bank safe in front of you. The lobby, with its huge columns dividing the massive space, is about two stories tall. The decor is dark, but with the frosted-glass chandeliers illuminating the space, all works well. The updated original elevators still have the tracking panel on the main floor. I love nostalgia!
My room was spacious, with dark decor and a fantastic view of the main thoroughfare of Houston. I was pleasantly surprised by how clean and wide the streets are.
Important Note: There is a metro rail in the middle of the main street. I learned when I took it that you buy your ticket from the machine for the designated period that you want it to be valid (more on the metro rail below).
My room had an attractive mirrored niche for a bar and a coffeemaker. The most noticeable points needing attention I found in the large bathroom. The sides of the tub are very high. Directions for the French shower/sprayer are needed; I could not get it to work. The glassed-in shower was as large as a studio apartment. Very nice! The shower’s bathing gel, shampoo, and conditioner are in pump bottles attached to the wall. Also very nice! The amenities for the bath were on the vanity by the sink—a little far away when one is soaking. But there was no horseshoe toilet seat, thank goodness. There was only one small hook—a bull’s head on the bath wall—and I did not find a long mirror anywhere. There was no telephone in the bathroom, so remember to take the cordless from the bedroom if necessary.
In the closet I found the usual two robes, two pairs of slippers, umbrella, safe, iron, ironing board, laundry bag, and, this is a first, a Federal Express envelope with label. This is minor, but the lights on each side of the bed were too high and the switches a little hard to find. The mattress was very comfortable and the sheets excellent. The staff was most helpful in telling me about the property.
Dining: There is the Voice
Restaurant and Voice Bar/Lounge. Voice (formerly called the Bank), a beautiful, sophisticated restaurant, is located in the lobby. The dinner I enjoyed was memorable and delicious. As you indulge, look around the spacious area and imagine what this bustling bank was like in its heyday.
The Hotel Icon is convenient to many of Houston’s downtown attractions. It would be hard not to enjoy a stay at this acclaimed hotel or just an evening of delicious dining.
There is a fitness and day spa (832-667-4466), which I did not have time to enjoy.
The Alden (formerly the Sam Hotel)
1117 Prairie St.
832-200-8800
www.aldenhotels.com
The Alden (meaning “old friend”) is a luxury hotel in downtown Houston’s business district. Upon entering, you are surrounded by upscale, modern, sleek decor and ambiance. Since it is one of the oldest hotels in the city (built in 1924), many claim that a ghost from the 1920s is present. (I love those ghosts.) There are ninety-seven luxurious guest rooms and nine suites.
Upon my arrival, the staff made me feel as if they have known me for years. The check-in took place at a large oval desk where I sat down to do the necessary check-in particulars. I felt that I was in someone’s office or library. Given my key card, I noticed that the hotel’s telephone number and address were written on it. So smart!
It would be hard not to be impressed by the lobby’s wall-size light installation titled “Invitation” by David Lander. The light colors fade and return in different forms and hues throughout the day, evening, and night. One would have to sit in the lobby for three days to watch the entire sequence.
The signage was good. I found my way to the room, a junior suite, easily. The living room area was pleasant with sofa, coffee table, and entertainment center. When I returned to my room after dinner, I found chocolate-covered strawberries and a bottle of wine on the coffee table. Thank you!
The bedroom was comfortable and not too big. Of course, the bedding was Egyptian cotton with a three hundred thread count. The bathroom was modern with slick, gray granite countertops, a large tub, and a superlarge glass-enclosed shower. All the amenities are in order.
*17 (832-200-8888)—yes, just “*17”—is the restaurant at the Alden. I was to learn that the name derives from years past when Houston was a destination for seventeen railroads. How original to name the restaurant “*17”! It wasn’t until I was perusing the menu and saw all the delicious seafood choices that I remembered Houston is on the sea. Whether you are having the gulf shrimp curry or the sea scallops with granny smith apples, you will enjoy it to the max. I found the meal’s accompaniments to be in the right proportions.
Although I had little room left for dessert, I did get a sample plate, and each taste was delicious.
The lounge at the Alden, the Sam Bar is a perfect, unpretentious spot to unwind or wind up.
The Alden is not a hotel of a cookie-cutter format; it has its own descriptive umbrella.
Museum of Fine Arts Houston
1001 Bissonnet St.
713-639-7300
www.mfah.org
The metro rail took me by several different areas and turned into a sightseeing event in itself. Arriving at the museum, I was immediately impressed. It is hard to camouflage excellence. I read that it is “the largest art museum [in America] south of Chicago, west of Washington, DC, and east of Los Angeles.” I discovered that I could not see it all on my visit, as it has three hundred thousand square feet of display space. I did see the photography exhibit of Diane Arbus’s excellent and moving work. It is accurate, real-life, superb photography. Perhaps as a New Yorker, I could relate as so many of her photographs are taken in Manhattan.
Also at the museum was an interesting and very well-displayed Murano glass exhibit. There was so much to see, but during this visit, just walking in the various galleries would have to suffice. Without a doubt, the Museum of Fine Arts Houston is impressive.
Note: If you are anywhere near a Diane Arbus exhibit, be sure to see it. Or get one of her books.
Rienzi
1406 Kirby Dr.
713-639-7800
www.mfah.org/visit/rienzi/Rienzi-Education
Part of the Museum of Fine Arts Houston, this former private home houses a most important collection of European decorative arts. Aside from seeing one of the world’s finest collections of Worchester porcelain, you will tour the rooms where the Rienzi family actually lived. The house is magnificent but very livable. The more you look, the more you see and feel the warmth of a real family home.
Great Finds
Harwin Street
Harwin Street is located two blocks off Hilcroft Street, two miles west of Highway 59. Time and comfortable shoes are a must! You are going to see so many things you want to need, but do not go crazy buying, even though you feel you’ve found a bargain—and there are bargains. The area is not fancy, but you’ll find a wealth of faux designer fashions, perfumes, and such. There is a shop for everything from watches, to eyeglasses, to lingerie, to whatever you thought you needed. Don’t be shy. Practice your haggling skills, and put them to use. Don’t go dressed up. Wear something very casual and nothing froufrou. Have fun, but be sensible and thrifty.
Charming Charlie’s
6959 Harwin St.
713-579-1911
This is a place to visit.
Westheimer Street in the Montrose Area
There are so many funky, eclectic, wonderful places of all varieties in this area. To list them would be a task. To visit them is a treat.
The Galleria
5085 Westheimer
713-622-0663
www.galleriahouston.com
With about 350 stores, the Galleria is the fifth-largest mall in the country. Houston is full of high-end stores in the various shopping areas, which is to be expected in high-end Houston.
Driving Diva Tip: To view some Texas-style Houston homes, drive slowly through Heights, River Oats, and River Road.
I saw a lot of antique shops on Woodhead Street that looked less like shops than impressive homes. I wouldn’t anticipate any bargains, but it would certainly be fun to look around.
I was recently told that I missed scoping out the Guild Shop, whose sales benefit various charities.
Guild Shop
2009 Dunlavy St.
713-528-5095
www.theguildshop.org
How could I miss this? What a must-do! Don’t you miss it.
ArtCar Museum
140 Heights Blvd.
713-861-5526
www.artcarmuseum.com
Also known as the Garage Mahal, this funky automobile museum opened in 1998. What a fun escape from the norm. Just walk around. Thought: Should I make my next cross-country odyssey in an art car?
Twice New Consignment Boutique
2005-D W. Gray, River Oaks Retail Center
713-523-2212
www.twicenew.com
This shop has a good selection, but I thought the prices were rather high.
Restaurants
Empire Café
1732 Westheimer Rd.
713-528-5282
www.empirecafe.com
This is an absolute must! We are not talking fancy-schmancy, just delicious, sensibly priced, and nice. Although it looks like a sit-down restaurant, it isn’t. There is a procedure: You line up (you will not be alone, but the line moves fast), place your order at the counter, and then go and sit down. Your order is then brought to you. I found it very difficult to make up my mind about what to order and ended up choosing the tomato basil soup and chicken salad. I also had a taste of the carrot cake and lemon poppy seed cake. You will not be disappointed. The coffees are delicious, and you might want to try the Italian sodas.
Every M
onday is half-price cake night. You can sample pineapple carrot cake, Toll House cookie crunch cake, or whatever is special on the cake menu that day.
Rainbow Lodge
2011 Ella Blvd.
713-861-8666
www.rainbow-lodge.com
I did not know a thing about the Rainbow Lodge, but I found it to be a fantastic place. Deemed one of the most romantic restaurants, it has also received many awards. I discovered that the proprietor, a woman named Donnette Hansen (yes!), has owned the Rainbow Lodge for thirty years. My dinner date was a friend whom I had not seen for years. He now lives in Houston and knows the best places.
The lodge’s history is interesting. The Tied Fly Bar is unique and definitely something to see. The carvings, which resemble a busy trout stream, were installed in seven pieces and are over twenty feet long. The menu was exceptional and varied, with selections ranging from the normal to the not so normal. For example, you can order the signature buffalo rib eye, a wild game mixed grill, roasted elk, or pine nut–crusted rainbow trout, and the selections go on. Of course, availability of some of these exotic choices will depend on the season. The Rainbow Lodge is definitely a must-see. It is a place where the food is as exceptional as the decor.
Crostini
3411 Shepherd
713-524-8558
What a nice, friendly restaurant. Although I had already eaten dinner, I sat at the bar talking with new friends introduced to me by my dinner date. They were kind enough to offer a taste or two from some of Crostini’s Italian dishes. All were very good with southwestern flavorings. Judging from the menu, selections are many and the prices sensible.
Huntsville
I had left Houston and was heading for Dallas with no specific plans for the next couple of hours when suddenly I saw a sign for the Huntsville Visitors Bureau and a huge statue of Sam Houston.
Huntsville Visitors Bureau
7600 Hwy. 75 South
936-291-9726
www.huntsvilletexas.com
As I was to learn at the welcome center, there is a lot to Huntsville, and not just the usual attractions. Huntsville, home to the Texas Department of Criminal Justice, has a historic downtown walking tour and a prison driving tour. Seven prisons are located in the county. On the driving tour, you will see the Texas Prison Museum, area prisons, and the prison cemetery.