Romancing the Roads
Page 17
Shoshoni
Home of the Wyo. State
Old Time Fiddle Contest
Boysen Lake
Walleye Capital of Wyo.
Shoshoni means “little snow.” At one time, this town had two thousand residents. The Elkhorn Hotel was the first business, and then the town grew so fast that people lived in tents. Fire burned the town in 1907 and 1908. Brick buildings replaced the wooden structures. Can you believe that in its heyday, Shoshoni had twenty-three saloons, two banks, two mercantile stores, livery and feed stables, and a newspaper? For its size, Shoshoni had more houses and restaurants than any other town in Wyoming.
Yellowstone Drug Store
502 E. Second St.
307-876-2539
Originally at 127 Main St., the Yellowstone Drug Store moved to its current location in 2009. When I arrived in Shoshoni, this corner emporium was in a white stucco-looking building with several types of windows, including double hung, oval, and triple wide. All styles were outlined in black. The parking lot was almost full. Once inside, I found a genuine soda fountain with swiveling stools. The floor space was full of round tables; the overhead florescent lights had no covers. One sign read, “Please order at the counter,” but the truly revealing sign stated,
In 2001 we dipped 15,339 gallons of ice cream!
One-day record on 5-29-00
727 Shakes & Malts
My $4 shake was very thick and tasty (prices are probably higher now). The wonderful flavor certainly derived in part from the ambiance but also from the large amount of butterfat used in these creations. There are now sixty-two flavors to choose from! Other items besides ice cream shakes, such as souvenir trinkets, are sold at the drug store.
In Shoshoni I also discovered the B&K Shoreline Shop.
B&K Shoreline Shop
14 Bass Lake Rd.
307-857-0750
Here you will find an RV park, bar, liquor lounge, tackle, and more.
Thermopolis (Population Approximately 3,500)
I did not have time to stop, but . . .
FYI: The world’s largest mineral hot springs are here at the foothills of Owl Creek Mountains and beside the Big Horn River. From reliable sources I hear this is a nice place to visit.
Cody
The road from Shoshoni to Cody is dotted on the atlas (signifying a AAA scenic byway). It is a nice drive. Arriving at the entrance to Cody, you realize you are stepping back into the Old West. It is also obvious that during the summer, there is a lot of tourism.
Cody is special and full of history and attractions that you will be glad to have experienced. Here are my discoveries, experiences, and critiques.
Buffalo Bill’s Cody/Yellowstone Country
For more information about this area, visit www.yellowstonecountry.org.
Irma Hotel
1192 Sheridan Ave.
307-587-4221
www.irmahotel.com
Named after Buffalo Bill Cody’s daughter, this wonderful hotel is a step back in time. William F. Cody, also known as Buffalo Bill, was probably the best-known person of his time. He stood in the foreground of important happenings that shaped the American West. In the 1880s he formed Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show, which toured the United States and Europe for thirty years. In 1895, Buffalo Bill founded Cody, Wyoming, and in 1902, he built the Irma Hotel. The Irma’s ornate cherry wood back bar was a gift from Queen Victoria, who had it made in France.
With only forty rooms, this is not a big hotel, but the decor and spirit of its grand early days prevail. You can picture the European nobility who stayed here during their hunting trips. You can also feel the rough-and-ready spirit of showman Buffalo Bill. The hotel is a pleasant mix for all. Although the original hotel was built in 1902, additions were made in 1929 and 1976.
Small touches include lace curtains and tablecloths, floral wall paper, dark-wood furniture, metal headboards, high ceilings, hanging ceiling lights, and fringed lamp shades. Although you might not choose this wonderful décor for your own home, it provides a nice respite from the traditional.
Dining at the Irma is famous, be it at the Restaurant Grill or the Buffet. There is an abundance of food, and the prices are good.
The Cody Gunfighters in Action fight occurs each afternoon in front of the hotel. Fun!
Claudia Wade and Lee Anne Ackerman, who live in Cody and whose opinions I respect, recommended the following four lodgings.
Chamberlin Inn
1032 Twelfth St.
307-587-0202
www.chamberlininn.com
Agnes Chamberlin transplanted herself from Kansas and opened her first boardinghouse in 1903. She soon after became prominent and instrumental in the life and development of Cody. Her inn was the place to stay in the 1920s and 1930s, and the guest book was impressive, with authors, politicians, movie stars, and tycoons staying in this fine establishment.
Just a stone’s throw from Main Street, this twenty-four-unit boutique hotel was totally renovated in 2005 and 2006. All reviews say this is a delightful property. One quote states, “Ernest Hemingway slept here—you should too.”
Cody Legacy Inn and Suites
1801 Mountain View Dr.
307-587-6067
www.codylegacyinn.com
New, rustic, and cozy, this inn has large, inviting rooms. The list of amenities is long, and I particularly like the most appropriate lodgepole pine furniture.
Cody Cowboy Village
203 W. Yellowstone Ave.
307-587-7555
www.thecodycowboyvillage.com
Here you will find luxurious, new log cabins—so western! Featuring the “best beds in the West,” this acclaimed village, near the rodeo grounds and about a mile from the museum (detailed below), is special.
The Cody
232 W. Yellowstone Ave.
307-587-5915
www.thecody.com
This brand-new, high-end hotel is, from all reports, soon to have its ranking stars—when a restaurant is added. In the meantime, it is an ideal place to stay. It is a green-friendly hotel.
Shopping
There are lots of shops on Cody’s main drag, Sheridan Avenue. With everything from western-themed to modern stores, it is fun.
Maurice’s
1101 Sheridan Ave.
307-527-5628
Here in Cody you will find one of the best chain stores where you can always find something sensibly priced. I am still wearing the shoes I purchased there.
The following two shops are operated by the Christ Episcopal Church to serve the Cody community and surrounding area.
Bargain Box
1644 Alger Ave.
307-587-6666
Bargain Box Furniture Store
1537 Beck Ave.
307-587-6333
Sightseeing and Dining
Cassie’s Supper Club
214 Yellowstone Ave.
307-527-5500
www.cassies.com
You cannot be in Cody and not eat at Cassie’s. The real Cassie was a madam. The present-day supper club was once a house of ill repute too. Those days are gone, and Cassie’s now has delicious menu selections, wonderful western atmosphere, and live music every night in the summer for dancing.
Dinner was delicious. I shared a “Tumbleweed Onion” (breaded and deep fried!). I could not believe my ears when told to order prawns in Wyoming, but I did anyway, and they were so good. I split the entrée of prawns with my friend, who ordered steak, and what a steak it was. Everything was, I repeat, delicious. I have to confess that the cowboy sitting at the next table, who kept trying to catch my eye, was not bad for the ego. Cassie’s . . . I plan to return!
Cody Trolley Tours
&
nbsp; 1192 Sheridan Ave. (Irma Hotel)
307-527-7043
www.codytrolleytours.com
Do not miss taking a Cody Trolley Tour—an hour full of interesting historic tidbits and fun comments. The guides are absolutely terrific. You will learn that the streets are so wide so that wide wagons could turn around. There are three Sears Catalogue homes, each originally purchased for $495. You’ll learn how Buffalo Bill Cody and his wife got along and about Annie Oakley, who taught troops how to shoot. The presentation of the town’s history is great.
Cody Stampede Rodeo
1031 Twelfth St.
307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744
www.codystampederodeo.com
One brochure states, “Rodeo Capital of the World, Cody Is Rodeo.” This longest-running rodeo in the United States has been world famous since 1938. In June, July, and August, it takes place every night at 8:30 p.m. Real West, real cowboys, and real wild.
Dan Miller’s Cowboy Music Revue
1171 Sheridan Ave.
307-272-7855
www.cowboymusicrevue.com
After hearing about Dan Miller and his show, I was ready to head for my seat in the audience. I’ll go the next time I’m in Cody. You can bring the whole family to this show. I hear that with each performance, it improves, and each show is wonderful.
Dan grew up on a dairy farm in Indiana, but his penchant for the theatrical world made him leave the cows for commercial endeavors in showbiz. His handsome, large physique (I saw pictures) definitely could find a place in the world of glitz—first Los Angeles and then on to Nashville. He was a natural in every way for TV. Lucky for Cody, Dan and his family moved here and brought his show along.
Buffalo Bill Historical Center
720 Sheridan Ave.
307-587-4771
www.bbhc.org
I had heard about this center and its six museums, but little did I realize that every rave review and glowing comment was absolutely true. It is hard to use so many superlatives and remain credible. This is considered America’s finest western museum. Within its walls, you will find the Buffalo Bill Museum, the Whitney Gallery of Western Art, the McCracken Research Library, the Plains Indian Museum, the Cody Firearms Museum, and the Draper Museum of Natural History. Each is exceptional.
Adults will be honored to have the experience of viewing these exhibits, and children will be fascinated. Plan to spend some time here in a slow fashion. There are places to dine and shop.
While in Cody, I met the famous artist Harry Jackson, whose work is displayed at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. At first I viewed the man as a scruffy western-looking gent, but I soon learned of his talents and visited with him at his studio. What a hoot. There must be something in the Cody air or water because, the first prominent American abstract painter, Jackson Pollock, was born in Cody.
Meeteetse Chocolatier
1943 State St., Meeteetse
307-868-2567
www.meeteetsechocolatier.com
I am anxious to visit this town, just thirty minutes from Cody, where in 2000 the population was 351 and now, who knows? It has a great story. Bronco rider Tim Kellogg needed a new saddle. They were expensive, costing $1,400 and up. His mother suggested that he make and sell some of his grandmother’s chocolates at the Cody Stampede to raise some funds. Like most sons and daughters, his first answer to this parental suggestion was no! Mother prevailed and got a booth at the stampede, and just to keep mother happy, Tim made the chocolates. As it turned out, he could not keep an adequate supply on hand. Each day they sold out pronto. And so it started. Remember, always listen to your mother! And the rest is history. Look this little emporium up on the Internet. You’ll see Tim in front of his store. Then check out the list of items and the in-store events. What a decadent discovery! I look forward to visiting.
FYI: These decadent delights contain no sugar, additives, or preservatives.
Driving Diva Suggestion: Read and research all about Yellowstone National Park before arriving. It is awesome, and there are so many things to see.
Yellowstone National Park
Leave Cody via Highway 20 to Highway 14/16, where you can enter Yellowstone at the east entrance.
Driving Diva Factoid: All of Yellowstone National Park is in Wyoming except a small part, which Wikipedia states is in Idaho. West Yellowstone is in Montana.
Awesome, fantastic, breathtaking, unbelievable, amazing, enormous, incredible: Those are just some of the adjectives you will apply to this great place. Take time to plan your Yellowstone experience. There is a tremendous amount to see and do here. It was over 640,000 years ago that the climactic event that formed Yellowstone took place.
There are several different entrances into the park. The well-marked roads in Yellowstone make a big loop. You should plot your route in the park and drive and enjoy.
Yellowstone has 300 miles of roads and 950 miles of hiking trails. It is imperative that rules and regulations be adhered to. Remember that you are on the turf of the Yellowstone animals. They do not mind if you look and photograph, but don’t get too close. Just because you think they are engrossed in their eating, don’t be a fool. They know just where you are and can get angry in a split second. Do not gamble!
Old Faithful is the most predictable and most publicized of all the geysers. It erupts faithfully, every sixty-three to seventy-five minutes, discharging about three to eight thousand gallons of water with a temperature of 204 degrees Fahrenheit. The water reaches a height of 90 to 184 feet.
Although most everyone talks about Old Faithful and waits to see this geyser perform, a bigger and more spectacular geyser, Grand Geyser, is not too far away. This one requires patience, but it is worth the wait. The Grand Geyser usually goes off about every twelve hours, but its timing is not exact. It erupts with a broad fountain spray, whereas Old Faithful erupts in a hose-like, cone-type spray. There are two smaller geysers on each side of Grand Geyser called the Vent Geyser and the Turban Geyser. These smaller geysers are connected hydrodynamically. When Vent Geyser starts to rumble, that usually indicates that Grand is about to do its performance. Then, Turban starts, and the show really begins. Grand Geyser reaches heights of 150 to 200 feet. Not to be outdone, the smaller geysers will continue to erupt and play for about an hour after Grand has finished. Sometimes, without any indication, Grand will show off with another eruption that is often higher and stronger than the first. It is worth the wait to see.
Yellowstone’s Lower Falls and Upper Falls are beautiful. Canyon Village is the perfect place to take a deep breath, get a beverage, “see a man about a horse” (use the facilities), and shop for souvenirs.
You will also see the Fountain Paint Pot area, as well as hot springs, mud pots, fumaroles, spectacular waterfalls, flora and fauna, and on and on. There is no end to what you will encounter in Yellowstone. Remember to help preserve this magnificent wonderland, and don’t do anything stupid because, remember, you are on the animals’ turf.
Driving Diva Factoid: In 1872 President Ulysses S. Grant signed the legislation to create Yellowstone as the world’s first national park.
Hotels
Your budget will determine where you lodge. There is something for everyone, including Old Faithful Inn, Lake Yellowstone Hotel and Cabins, and Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and Cabins (866-439-7375, www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com). These three grand hotels of Yellowstone are wonderful, unique, comfortable, and clean. There are also cabin and lodge accommodations available. Be sure to make your reservations early.
Old Faithful Inn is extraordinary. Built in 1903, it has sixty-five-foot ceilings, massive fireplaces, lodgepole pine railings, and more. When you enter, you will feel dwarfed by it all. The Old Faithful Inn is just a short distance from Old Faithful Geyser.
Reservations are required in the wonderful, well-run, full-se
rvice dining rooms, which I adore. There are also cafeterias and fast food options. Some of the lodges have special dining functions, such as the Old West Dinner Cookout at Roosevelt Lodge, which I hear is a special event.
Driving Diva Tip: Remember to keep your national park pass with you so you can reenter the parks.
Grand Tetons National Park
It is a pleasant experience to drive south toward Jackson out of Yellowstone for an afternoon of discoveries and to view the Tetons from a different perspective. If you start early, it is not a problem to get to Jackson for the day and back to Yellowstone before dark. Preferably, spend time in the Jackson area.
The Tetons are a spectacular mountain range and so distinctive that you won’t mix them up with any other. Grand Teton National Park (www.nps.gov/grte) is located just south of Yellowstone and north of Jackson. These impressive mountains rose millions of years ago when the earth’s crust cracked along the fault.
I had been in Jackson Hole several times and seen the area, but never from this vantage point. As you look out over the dark blue of Jackson Lake, dotted with a few anchored boats, the massive snow-capped Tetons in the background are indeed a beautiful sight.
Leeks Marina and Pizzeria
89 National Park Rd.
303-543-2494
What a delightful place to lunch. It is a beautiful setting, especially if you sit on the porch overlooking the marina. Everything is delicious and sensibly priced. It is extremely female friendly.
Jackson (Population Approximately 9,000)
More than twenty-five years ago, my older son went to camp in Jackson (Teton Valley Ranch Camp) and subsequently became a counselor. He always raved about the spectacular scenery and how fantastic rafting on the Snake River, as well as the hiking and horseback riding, were. I didn’t doubt him, but only when I saw the area with my own eyes did I realize how true his words were. Camp life in these surroundings is a special experience.
Jackson is well-heeled, and the residents act accordingly. It is an attractive western area, with nature, wildlife, and physical activity a part of each resident’s lifestyle. In the winter, skiing is very popular. The bold Tetons are your constant companions.
Jackson in the summer is filled with tourists, but I have not found it too objectionable. The natives might not agree. My summer experiences in Jackson were always fun and interesting.