Things to Know: The Portland Light Rail is a bargain. This can take you to many sights and discoveries. On busy corners, there are kiosks staffed with young, enthusiastic, knowledgeable people who are there to help you discover Portland. More cities should have this service.
On weekends there is the flea market and street fair, with lots of things to buy. When I was there I purchased a magical pixie-dust amulet. An amulet is a magical object worn to guide energy to the person wearing it. Have I had any magical pixie-dust experiences, you ask? Not that I know of, but then, I must confess, I have not been wearing it. Must do so, just in case.
Portland Classical Chinese Garden
239 NW Everett St.
503-228-8131
www.portlandchinesegarden.org
Here you’ll find impressive, quiet beauty and, to quote their brochure, “Never Twice the Same.”
Waterfront
The walk to the waterfront is nice but also sketchy, as there are permanent stragglers in various clusters or prone positions.
McCormick & Schmick
0309 SW Montgomery
503-220-1865
www.mccormickandschmicks.com
I had looked forward to dining at McCormick & Schmick’s, but the reception there was nil. Was it female scoffing or lack of experience? Regardless, after waiting and even walking around, I walked out.
Newport Bay at Riverplace
425 SW Montgomery St.
503-227-3474
www.newportbay.com
Newport Bay proved delightful, with delicious fare and sensible prices. In spite of the wind, I sat outside overlooking the water, and it was most attractive. The attendants were upbeat and friendly.
Across the street from the Heathman is the Metro Café, a restaurant deli of sorts.
Metro Café
1000 SW Broadway
503-242-2435
I was able to get (from a most attentive young man named Matt) half a sandwich and a drink along with a big cookie. I took the morsels back to my room and just kicked back and planned the next day. Sometimes an easy meal hits the spot.
There is a lot to Portland. It would take a few days to see it. I am glad to have been there, and perhaps another visit will take place.
Driving Diva Tip: Leave Portland and head south. Taking 26 West to 6 West, weave through Tillamook State Forest (www.tillamookforestcenter.org). The roads are beautiful, and if you stay on them, you will eventually reach the Pacific Ocean.
Oh My! Always keep your eyes open for signs (and things) that hint at something special. Driving on Wilson River Loop Road, I saw a sign for Bullshit Road. (Excuse me, Mother!) Sometimes you just luck out.
I saw another sign on an old schoolhouse for Latimer Quilt and Textile Center. I decided to park the car and walked up to the door with great anticipation. I was sad to find that it was closed on that day, but I heard voices from inside. Of course, I knocked anyway, and the door was opened by a most attractive lady. There were several other ladies near the door too as a meeting had just adjourned. They let me in and what an event!
Latimer Quilt & Textile Center
2105 Wilson River Loop Rd., Tillamook
503-842-8622
www.latimerquiltandtextile.com
The displayed quilts (some hanging, some folded) were beautiful. The prices for the art were sensible. One could purchase quilting products or join a class. Related items were also for sale. Be sure to check this center out in person or electronically.
I learned that the building (circa 1940) had been a school for grades one through eight. Thirteen years before, it had been too dilapidated and about to fall down. Then a few determined women got together and developed this most special, creative, vibrant quilting center. Latimer Quilt and Textile Center is a must-see.
I reluctantly left, but not before I purchased an Over-the-Hill Voodoo Doll. The tag states, “Stick pin in whatever area is giving you problems. Instant relief! Use more pins as necessary.” Also, the ladies had enjoyed refreshments and goodies during their meeting. I was offered a delicious homemade lemon tart. Thank you, Latimer Quilt and Textile Ladies, for a wonderful visit! A true serendipity.
Tillamook Cheese Visitors Center
4175 Hwy. 101 N., Tillamook
503-815-1300
www.tillamookcheese.com
Judging by the size of the center and the number of cars and buses in the parking lot, this is a well-known destination. I am delighted to have made the discovery. Here you will find 78 million pounds of legendary Tillamook cheese to be delivered throughout the world. At the center, you can see cheese in the making, sample some tasty goodness, be tempted in the gift shop, eat lunch at the deli, and then sample some of the famous ice cream. The center is pristine and the staff very friendly. I asked what makes Tillamook cheese different, and they told me it was the fact that everything is aged naturally. The recipe is over one hundred years old. The Creamery Café is very popular. If I had only been hungry! Alert: The Tillamook fudge is made with Tillamook butter and comes in forty-three flavors. You might have to wait your turn to purchase, but you won’t be alone, and from all I hear, it is worth the wait.
The population of Tillamook is approximately four thousand. According to a brochure, there are a lot of area attractions, including the Pioneer Museum, the Tillamook Air Museum, camping, clamming, crabbing, hiking, and walking the beaches.
Pioneer Museum
2106 Second St.
503-842-4553
www.tcpm.org
Tillamook Air Museum
6030 Hangar Rd.
503-842-1130
www.tillamookair.com
One of the most unusual events I have ever heard of is at the Tillamook county fair in August. It is called Pig N Ford Races (www.pig-n-ford.com). Basically, the participants line up. At the signal, they rush over to some pigpens, grab one squeaking pig, run to their respective Model Ts at another starting line, put the pig in the car, and race to the finish line. I think you get the gist of this zany event. I just thought it was worth mentioning,
Creekside Restaurant
I-5, Exit 99, Canyonville
541-839-3110
The Creekside Restaurant in the Seven Feathers Truck and Travel Center (541-839-3100, www.i5exit99.com) in Canyonville (population approximately 1,200) was large, very clean, pleasant, friendly, and sensibly priced.
Ashland (Population Approximately 20,000)
Road construction had lengthened the driving time, and it was late. Driving into town, I realized I was in a charming area as the streets were clean, and everything looked well kept. As the afternoon sky darkened, there was a glow all around. For a town its size, Ashland is full of wonderful discoveries and places.
Ashland Springs Hotel
212 E. Main St.
541-488-1700
www.ashlandspringshotel.com
I had heard so much about the restored Ashland Springs Hotel and was anxious to see the property firsthand. I had no problem finding it. It is the tallest structure in town with an impressive white facade.
Upon entering I knew I would not be disappointed. The Ashland Springs had the right environment mixed with a relaxed decor of overstuffed chairs and sofas. Tall potted palm trees added definition to areas in the big room. The large collection of sea shells mixed well. It was all charming. My room was most relaxing, clean, and cozy. There were pastel colors, a comfortable bed and sitting area, and a nice bathroom. It wasn’t fancy but just right.
An excellent complimentary breakfast with plentiful fresh fruit was served on the mezzanine. For the first time, I ate pluots, a cross between a plum and an apricot. Delicious! There were hard-boiled eggs, various cereals, and yummy muffins. The coffee was also delicious. You sit at small, bistro-like tables, and the
re is no excuse not to talk to other guests as the entire ambiance lends itself to doing so.
The hotel is downtown, so walking around and exploring is easy. There are shops, restaurants, and the standard town emporiums.
At one time, the hotel bar was the longest in Oregon. The attractive decorative accents include movie items from the 1950s. The Ashland Springs Hotel is a charmer, a boutique hotel you will enjoy. Although I didn’t fully realize it when planning this trip, Ashland hosts the famous Oregon Shakespeare Festival, which is within walking distance of the Ashland Springs Hotel.
Oregon Shakespeare Festival
15 S. Pioneer St.
541-482-2111
www.osfashland.org
Spur-of-the-moment tickets are not to be counted on, as I found out. Investigate this special theater. Everyone I spoke to raved about it.
Southern Oregon University, with fifty-five hundred students, is in Ashland. The entire population of Ashland is about 20,000. I mention this because towns with a major academic contingent have added agendas, not to mention many young people.
Discoveries
Déjà Vu Fashion Consignment Shoppe
1644 Ashland St., Unit 3
541-522-0720
I found some goodies here!
Pilaf Global Pantry World Food
225 Water St.
541-488-4433
As this establishment is 100 percent vegetarian, it makes a nice change from more usual menus. It is pleasant and not that expensive.
Blue Giraffe Day Spa Salon
51 Water St.
541-488-3335
www.bluegiraffespa.com
About one block from the Plaza on Ashland Creek, this downtown spa can be a little hard to find as it is behind and around the block. It is by a real creek so—as I was told—follow the sound of the water. The decor is attractive and inviting, and there are many types of treatments to choose from. Since I was there, the spa has expanded, as has the variety of treatments. Go and enjoy over and over.
Medford (Population Approximately 63,000)
When in Ashland, be sure to take a less-than-fifteen-minute drive to Medford. This town has the major stores, grocery chains, and so forth.
Harry & David
1314 Center Dr., Medford
541-864-2278 or 877-322-1200
www.harryanddavid.com
Medford is the corporate headquarters of Harry & David, purveyors of superb and delicious products. From Harry & David, you can order the fantastic Royal Riviera pears. A most informative tour is given of the plant’s facilities. You will realize by tour’s end that there is no doubt about the professed quality and caliber of the products. The strict quality control that has made Harry & David a leader in the field is evident even to the casual visitor. At the end of the tour, you are given a sample of one of the company’s products. I was given a tiny box with a couple of galettes and a mini mint, which were delicious. If you can’t visit the site, order from the catalogue or keep an eye out for some of the retail shops.
Leaving Ashland, it is easy to get back on I-5 South. In less than an hour, you are in California.
California
On the road from Ashland Springs, Oregon, past spectacular Mount Shasta and Lake Shasta, farm fields gave way to congestion, ultimately landing me in . . .
Berkeley and Oakland
Claremont Hotel Club & Spa
41 Tunnel Rd., Berkeley
510-843-3000 or 800-551-7266
www.claremontresort.com
The Claremont opened in 1915 as a “retreat for wealthy San Franciscans,” according to the brochure. It is a huge, bright-white edifice that sits atop a hill overlooking the San Francisco Bay. Finding the place wasn’t easy, and when I called for directions, the person on the phone practically had to form a committee to advise me on how to get there (an all-too-common problem at some hotels).
Once there, I was immediately greeted by well-attired, friendly attendants who happily granted my request to park my car close by. The entrance to the resort is impressive and tempting at the same time as you walk past a long hall filled with tantalizing shops and boutiques. I nearly had heart failure on checking in, though, when I was told that I didn’t have a reservation! The tune changed when I presented my confirmation number. A must-have!
This is a huge place, and I have to comment (again) that I do not think present-day hoteliers realize that one of their main responsibilities is to provide legible, frequent signage. As I followed the bellman to my room, I made mental notes as to the location of the pool area, sport spa, and even the elevators. Walking down the inside hallways, I knew I would have difficulty finding my way out (which proved true several times during my stay). Maybe I should have left a trail of birdseed.
My room was attractive, in restful, warm, beige colors. There were two double beds, a large TV/entertainment center, and a bar in a nook. All the rooms have been renovated, I am sure in a most California-attractive fashion. I had a great view of San Francisco and the bay, particularly as the sun was setting and the night lights came on.
The bathroom was well done: double vanity, toilet and shower in separate areas, bright heat lamps, and phone by the toilet (minus points, though, for the horseshoe toilet seat.)
A visit to the pool area was first on the agenda (sandals and cover-up recommended). It took a bit of exploring to get there. Your hotel key and hotel card must be presented at the pool desk. It’s a nice big area with a lap pool and a children’s pool. Because of its proximity to neighboring cities, the Claremont is full of families visiting for weekends and holidays. The pool areas are well laid out, so you do not feel that children have the run of the place. The chaises are close together, but not too close. At the poolside Bayview Café, you can eat indoors or out or by your chaise.
I dined at the resort’s Paragon Bar & Café (510-549-8585), which had a nice ambiance and adequate food and service. I ate breakfast at another restaurant at the resort, Jordan’s, now Meritage, and was somewhat disappointed. First, I was misled about the orange juice being fresh (fresh out of a container maybe), the ketchup tasted like tomato paste, the coffee was too strong, and the buffet was nothing to write home about. (To make amends, the next morning the maître d’ proudly presented me with real fresh-squeezed orange juice. I didn’t think that would be a good time to mention that the silver needed polishing as well.) From all reports, fine tuning has been done, but I am relating what I experienced.
The twenty-thousand-square-foot Spa Claremont offers every possible treatment you can imagine. Although a busy place, this beautiful area will melt you “like buttah” the moment you walk in. Among the many options are the “Thai Journey,” “Mayan Temple Journey,” “Zen Trilogy Body Wrap,” “LA Stone Therapy,” “Rosemary Citron Dead Sea Salt Scrub,” “Coconut Body Polish,” and more. The spa is open to the public, so call ahead for your appointment. Like I said, it’s a busy place.
Visit this huge, impressive, historic property, and, even better, stay a night or two.
Around Berkeley
Downtown Berkeley and the University of California are about a mile downhill from the Claremont. Around the campus, I was amazed, even shocked, by the large number of hippies who seemed to inhabit the sidewalks. These were no flower children at a Grateful Dead concert but rather young people in a near-indigent condition. Blame it on my mature eyes, but the thought that one of these homo sapiens could have been the child of someone I knew was unsettling. I felt for both the children and their parents. This is not a part of town where you’d want to park your car and go for a light stroll—at least, not when I was there and from what I was told.
Around Fourth Street, though, a very nice area has shops of all varieties, art galleries, and restaurants. There were many eateries to choose from, but because I was there early,
some weren’t open yet. I ended up at a place called Crepevine.
Crepevine
1600 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley
510-705-1836
www.crepevine.com
Crepevine was delicious, inexpensive, and clean. (I hope it is still there!)
Going in the other direction (uphill) from the Claremont, you enter a very nice area with beautiful Victorian homes and fantastic views. It’s well worth a drive-through.
Ukiah
Vichy Springs Resort & Spa
2605 Vichy Springs Rd.
707-462-9515
www.vichysprings.com
Two hours north of San Francisco you will find this oasis. To paraphrase comments I have read, arriving at Vichy Springs you feel as if you are miles from any worries in a most tranquil setting. This 150-year-old Hot Springs Resort and Spa, with twenty-six rooms and cottages, is California Landmark 980. Here you will find the only natural, warm, carbonated mineral baths in North America, a hot soaking pool, an Olympic-size swimming pool, and seven hundred acres for walking, hiking, or strolling. The costs are sensible, the waters superb, and the atmosphere delightful. I am soon on my way to soak, enjoy, and discover.
Wine Train
1275 McKinstry St., Napa
707-253-2111
www.winetrain.com
One hour north of San Francisco is the Wine Train. Taking this perfectly restored train, with dining and lounge cars, is an adventure, and what a way to see the beautiful wine country of Napa valley. Round-trip takes about three hours and covers thirty-six miles. There are three options for travel, the most popular being the one where you ride in the car with the vista dome. You can dine in gourmet style, with three- to five-course menus, and enjoy wine, wine, wine. Each of the three price options is well worth it. The scenery probably becomes more beautiful (if possible) with each sip. I am anxious to find out.
San Francisco
San Francisco is a gem of a city, although many years ago, when I first visited, it seemed less crowded and sparkled more than it did on my last visit. There is plenty to see and do in San Francisco, but remember to bring really good walking shoes (maybe even hiking shoes) as the hills of the city can be a challenge.
Romancing the Roads Page 23