Driving Diva Alert: When parking on a steep downhill slope, point your front tires toward the curb; point them away from the curb when you are parking on an uphill slope. This will prevent your car from joining the traffic without you.
San Francisco is, for the most part, pretty and friendly, but it is a big town and has some areas that you should definitely stay out of, such as the Tenderloin District and the area south of Mission Street. So much for a minus or two. There are hundreds of pluses.
The buses are good and clean, and the people are friendly. Have the necessary fare, and a handy bus map helps.
Prescott Hotel
545 Post St.
415-563-0303
www.prescotthotel.com
Lucky and delighted was how I felt about staying at this wonderful property. I would not call it a boutique hotel since it’s a bit more grand than that, with 164 upscale guest rooms. The Prescott is centrally located and convenient to nearly everything. As I arrived early and my room wasn’t ready, I had my car parked, stored my bags, and struck out into the city with a map and a lunch recommendation. More on the Prescott experience below.
Plouf
40 Belden Pl.
415-986-6491
www.belden-place.com/plouf
Plouf refers to “the sound a stone makes when it drops into a French stream.” Within walking distance of the Prescott, it’s a great place to eat! I dined alfresco in the alley adjacent to the inside dining area. Although it was packed, it didn’t feel crowded because of how the long tables were arranged. This very nice seafood bistro is trendy and quite French, and the food is delicious in a garlicky sort of way. (That is meant to be a compliment.) The service is fast, and the challenge is not to spoil your appetite by eating all the delicious, garlicky, broth-soaked baguettes promptly put under your nose when you sit down. The prices are sensible and the atmosphere delightful.
I decided to walk off my lunch by strolling around Union Square (www.unionsquareshop.com) with its mixture of famous brand-name shops, the not-so-well-known stores, and the “I don’t know how they stay in business” shops. Before too long, I found myself in Chinatown (www.sanfranciscochinatown.com), where I purchased a very un-Chinese item (though it might have been made in China—aren’t most things?), which I highly recommend: a very large, strong plastic bag with a zipper on top that folds down to a manageable size.
Returning to the Prescott, I was glad to get into my room, rest, and organize for a bit. I was staying on the Club Level, which features complimentary beverages and hors d’oeuvres served by the exceptional Neoo. Amusing and warm, Neoo always remembers what you liked to drink.
See below for the restaurant at the Prescott and more.
Driving Diva Factoid: The pet-friendly Prescott offers the following amenities for your furry friends: food and drink (pet food and bottled water); Kimpton freshly laundered, faux-sheepskin pet bed; special pet treats upon check-in; dog leash; an ample supply of disposable cleanup bags.
I really wanted to discover the areas and shops of San Francisco that are not featured in the usual travel brochures.
Ferry Building Marketplace
One Ferry Building
415-983-8030
www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com
Along the Embarcadero (www.embarcaderocenter.com) at the foot of Market Street, this fabulous open market has fine fresh vegetables, flowers, homemade items, and other delicacies. Street merchants also offer attractive jewelry, clothing, and even cooking demonstrations.
Fun Out-of-the-Way Shops and Places
Taking the No. 1 California bus or the No. 38 Geary bus and following the recommendation of some locals, my next destination was Clement and Thirty-first streets.
Kimberley’s Consignment
3020 Clement St.
415-752-2223
www.kimberleyssf.com
I had the feeling that this probably wasn’t an ordinary thrift store, and, indeed, as I discovered, there were few real jump-out bargains. Persistent visits would probably lead to the discovery of bargains. The owner admitted, “Yes, we are high-end, but then, our items are high-end.” She told me that they are the oldest shop of its kind in San Francisco—Kimberley’s had been run by her late mother.
Jane Consignment
2249 Clement St.
415-751-5511
www.jane-consignment.com
Less than ten blocks away is the more reasonably priced Jane Consignment, “A Breath of Fresh Wear,” owned by Jane Wilson. The store is a little funky, but you will find bargains, and Jane is delightful.
Tandoori Mahal
941 Kearney St.
415-951-0505
www.tandoorimahalsf.com
Not too far from Jane’s, I had lunch at this inviting Indian restaurant. The host and hostess didn’t speak much English, but we communicated just fine using a little sign language. They pointed to a table covered with a crisp, white tablecloth (good sign) and then to a savory buffet. Though lunch was modest—two small appetizers and tea—Tandoori Mahal hit the spot.
After lunch, I took the No. 2 Clement Street bus to Fillmore Street in order to rest my aching feet. I had been warned that this part of town might be a huge temptation for me, with its many bookstores, health and beauty shops, bakeries, restaurants, and the mother lode for the Driving Diva: consignment shops! Within a few blocks I found a Junior League Store with first-rate items at sensible prices.
Next-to-New Junior League Shop
2226 Fillmore St.
415-567-1628
Victorian House Thrift Shop
2033 Fillmore St.
415-567-3149
This shop aids the California Pacific Medical Center.
Seconds-to-Go Resale Shop
2252 Fillmore St.
415-563-7306
This shop benefits the scholarship funds at the Schools of the Scared Heart.
One of the shops had a beautiful, huge screen that I not only wanted but actually needed, and the price was right. But I never could have wrestled it onto a bus or into a cab. Sigh.
The Fillmore area is definitely a place to spend the day . . . many times over and over.
Back at the Prescott, a bit weary but anticipating my dinner experience, I got a second wind, changed attire, and was ready to dine. I was anxious to experience the excellent Postrio.
Postrio
545 Post St.
415-776-7825
www.postrio.com
I report here what I enjoyed then. Upon entering, one descends a small flight of stairs into the restaurant. I was personally greeted by then general manager James Minch, whose professionalism, hospitality, and recommendations guided me through a most memorable meal: gazpacho for starters, then ginger shrimp curry over rice with coconut, garbanzo nuts, and lotus root. His wine choices were especially good, and dessert was downright decadent. Save both your pennies and your appetite for Postrio.
Sidebar: James Minch, after many years at Postrio, has gone to Spruce.
Spruce
3640 Sacramento St.
415-931-5100
www.sprucesf.com
It is called a neighborhood restaurant with an upscale, sophisticated ambiance and menu. I look forward to a visit.
Hotel Majestic
1500 Sutter St.
415-441-1100
www.thehotelmajestic.com
Located in Pacific Heights. this charming and attractive hotel is a true gem. Originally a private residence built in 1902 by Milton Schmidt, a railroad magnate and member of the California State Legislature, it became the Hotel Majestic when Schmidt sold it in 1904. Untouched by the earthquake of 1906, it remains San Francisco’s longest continuously operated hotel. To add to its charm, the Majestic is a bit a
way from downtown, which makes parking easy and convenient in the hotel’s covered garage on the next block. Ghosts are said to inhabit the hotel, and in one room, the bathtub mysteriously fills with water all on its own—or so I have been told.
The outside of the hotel was painted in an attractive, subtle mix of colors.
The well-known Café Majestic (415-441-1280) is a favorite, and the Butterfly Lounge is a popular place to rendezvous. Regardless, visit and, if possible, stay at this special place.
The Prescott and the Majestic are two of many small hotels in San Francisco, but you if want the “grand hotel” experience, even if you can only afford to have dinner, I can personally recommend the Ritz, the Mark Hopkins, and the Stanford Court.
The Ritz
600 Stockton St.
415-296-7465
www.ritzcarlton.com
The Ritz is, well, ritzy, and if a dinner in the Dining Room is not in the budget, a small munch at the Terrace will do just fine.
Mark Hopkins
One Nob Hill
877-270-1390
www.intercontinentalmarkhopkins.com
This fine hotel’s Top of the Mark restaurant features a bar with a spectacular, panoramic view of the city. The cost of this view is approximately $10 for a glass of Chablis.
Stanford Court
905 California St.
415-989-3500
www.marriott.com
This hotel is comfortable and attractive, though in recent years, it seems to have become a bit more hectic and commercial since I stayed there on my first book tour.
Heading South
Several highways head south out of San Francisco, the most expedient (for getting to Los Angeles) being I-5. More attractive alternatives are U.S. Route 101, which weaves in and out of farmlands, or the famed Pacific Coast Highway, Highway 1. When I first asked someone about Highway 1 way back when, I was told you really have to be careful because the road was so windy that you’d see your own exhaust pipe much of the way. From the first very sharp curve onward, though, Highway 1 is not as bad as described. It is well maintained, though you do have to keep a lookout for speeders and passers, and driving at night is not recommended. Head-on collisions are all too common on the highway, which was designed for slower automobiles. It took eighteen years of construction before it was completed in 1937.
The weather can change drastically along Highway 1, so pack for cold as well as warm conditions. The early-morning fog rolls in and is quite beautiful, albeit damp and chilly and a hindrance to visibility. By noon or so, the fog has rolled on, and the day warms.
You can exist in many different ways in Big Sur, and if you choose to do nothing except look, you will still come away with enhanced experiences that you will remember well and with pleasure.
There’s a lot of development along the Santa Lucia Mountains side of the highway and somewhat less on the ocean side, where the Pacific throbs and bangs and rolls against the shoreline.
Swanton Berry Farm
Two miles north of Davenport on Hwy. 1
831-469-8804
www.swantonberryfarm.com
About seventy miles south of San Francisco along Highway 1 is Swanton Berry Farm, home to some of the best strawberries I’ve ever tasted. The farm opened in 1983 with two acres and today has eighty acres of not only strawberries but also blackberries, artichokes, broccoli, cauliflower, and other vegetables—all grown organically. There are two farms: the Farm Stand and Swanton’s Coastways, where you can pick strawberries, blackberries, kiwis, and ollalieberries. Don’t believe that anything you purchase (except for perhaps vegetables) will last till you get home; my strawberries were gone by the time I reached Carmel.
Carmel
Charming, tony, and attractive, Carmel is the type of place where you do not want to see cutoffs, tank tops, or flip-flops. Homes are known by name and have no numbered addresses, which enhances the town’s residential character. Still, streets and shops (as well as the beach at the edge of town) tend to be filled with tourists visiting for weekends and holidays.
I found lots of shops, restaurants, and antique stores amid the many New York brokerage offices.
Villeroy & Boch
Ocean Ave. between Dolores and Lincoln, South Side
831-624-8210
At Villeroy & Boch, I did purchase an unusual metal candleholder that was on sale.
As befits a town whose mayor at one time was actor Clint Eastwood, Carmel boasts several fine resorts and inns.
Quail Lodge
8000 Valley Greens Dr.
831-620-8866
www.quaillodge.com
I visited this most accommodating property a few years ago. My accommodations consisted of two rooms: a large sitting area with a fireplace and an equally large bedroom, both well appointed in earth tones. Everything about the bathroom was perfect, from the beautiful bathrobes, to the heated floor and towel bars, to the huge tub.
I took full advantage of the amenities, soaking in the large tub, then wrapping myself in a bathrobe and plopping down on the sofa to read about the Quail Lodge’s golf course (831-620-8808), home to the California Women’s State Amateur Championship each December. Forward to now: The lodge per se is closed, and it is now more a semiprivate golf club.
There are two places to eat at the Quail Golf Club: Edgar’s (831-620-8910) in the golf club house, which is open to the public, and there is also and the Covey Restaurant. Quail’s future is to be decided. I only hope this attractive property enjoys a timely renaissance.
Bernardus Lodge
415 W. Carmel Valley Rd.
831-658-3400
www.bernardus.com
The Bernardus is near perfection. From the moment I arrived, I knew I was in for an extraordinary experience. As soon as I pulled up in front of the lodge, I was greeted warmly, and my bags were whisked away with the promise that they’d be taken to my room. Nestled into a terraced hill directly in front of where you park, the Bernardus makes you feel as if you are visiting a very spacious, perfectly appointed, private home.
Two concierges, each with his own computer and seated behind a large table, attended to my check in. After an exchange of greetings, a waiting attendant stood to show me to my room. A welcoming glass of wine (from the lodge’s own vineyards, no less!) was offered, along with an invitation to tour the property. I followed the attendant through the main building and out into the garden, where sounds from running fountains filled the air. The pool and spa area were to the left, and in the area to the right, one could enjoy casual outdoor dining warmed by a large fireplace.
My room was understated, rustic but elegant, with special attention to many details. Welcoming complimentary estate wines, soft drinks, pastries, and cheese awaited on a table; elsewhere, there were fresh flowers and a bowl of fruit. Also, there was a large TV, CD player, coffeemaker, and tea server. Imported linens and down comforters graced the bed. In the bathroom, I found coral-colored toilet paper and Kleenex, a loofah sponge, bath salts, a scale, and a huge tub. The overstuffed chairs and sofa and the armoires were perfectly proportioned. From a balcony, I could overlook the manicured gardens. Heaven!
Bernardus Pon, creator of the acclaimed Bernardus Winery and Vineyard (800-223-2533), established Bernardus Lodge in 1999, with the goal of combining exemplary hospitality with exceptional epicurean experiences. Mission accomplished! The wines are delicious and form a great marriage with a meal. I wondered if the Bernardus’s signature restaurant, Marinus (831-658-3595), could possibly live up to its fantastic reputation and many awards. The answer was yes.
The dining room is not large, but large enough. Since I do adore a perfectly set table, I appreciated the crisp, white linens, polished silverware, and sparkling goblets. And the food . . . where do I begin? I started with the superb portobello
soup, then tried the foie gras over lobster in a pastry shell. My main course was lobster with mango and prosciutto; dessert was a simple homemade ice cream. All the vegetables and fruits used are grown on property. Cal Stamenov is the executive chef and culinary director of Marinus, and my meal proved that his culinary talents are indisputable. I didn’t merely walk back to my room. I floated.
The turndown service is as you would expect and then some: How about a half bottle of wine and some treats from the chef for a night cap? Though tempted, I did not succumb. The imported linens, feather bed, and down comforter were quite enough to send me into dreamland.
The Spa at Bernardus Lodge (831-658-3560) is small but pleasant. Candlelight in the hallways contributes to the atmosphere, as does the fact that you have to be eighteen to use the spa. The facilities are what you would expect, with a large waiting room (called a warming room) with fruits, teas, and refreshing cucumber water. I had a “Wellbeing Massage”—nothing out of the ordinary but still very pleasant.
The pool area just outside the spa is a perfect place to relax, whether you’ve had a treatment or not. I tried to continue my feeling of well-being as I stretched out on a comfortable chaise and let the Carmel sun warm my oil-filled pores and massaged body. The sound of running fountains was nice background music that added to the ambiance.
Alas, before I knew it, my stay was over, and my bags were being taken to my waiting car. Everyone I passed on the way out bade me farewell. The attendant who had put my bags in the car had also placed a bottle of water in the front seat—a thoughtful parting gift from a most special place.
Big Sur
Beginning south of Carmel is legendary Big Sur, the rugged shoreline where author and resident Henry Miller claimed that he first “learned to say amen” (whether as a spiritual incantation or an exclamation of relief at having survived the drive is not known).
Big Sur is a ninety-mile stretch of awesome coastline. There are pull-outs where you can stop, view, rest, take a deep breath, and so forth. There is no charge to use them, so do so whenever needed. At designated places, you can climb down to the beach. I hear the walk is worth it, but having looked at some of the paths, I guarantee it is not for bad knees or hips under any circumstances. Remember, if you go down, you have to come back up!
Romancing the Roads Page 24