Romancing the Roads

by Gerry Hempel Davis

  Again: Do not fear this highway, just respect it, maintain a sensible speed, and enjoy.

  Driving Diva Factoid: It was not until the 1950s that electricity arrived in Big Sur, and it still does not exist in some of the more challenging rural areas.

  Nepenthe Restaurant

  48510 Hwy. 1

  831-667-2345

  www.nepenthebigsur.com

  I have heard that the name Nepenthe means either “isle of no care” or “no sorrow.” Webster’s defines it as a potion used in ancient times to induce forgetfulness of pain or sorrow or anything capable of causing oblivion of grief or suffering. This legendary restaurant was started over fifty years ago by Lolly and Bill Fassett, who from the start aspired to give their guests excellent service in a special and relaxed atmosphere. It’s special, indeed, because you are hanging over a cliff above the pounding Pacific Ocean! The view is wonderful, except when the fog rolls in, and when I was there, there was more fog than view, but I waited a while and saw more view. Regardless of the fickle weather, I recommend Nepenthe and compliment its third-generation owners, who maintain their grandparents’ original vision for the place. Be prepared to wait for a good seat around sunset though. And, as at many other such special places, you pay for the view.

  I was told to watch for the elephant seals frolicking in the ocean around Big Sur, and sure enough, there they were. They’re big animals, but surprisingly nimble. As they frolicked, they looked quite adoringly toward one another, rubbing their snouts and heads together.

  Hearst Castle

  750 Hearst Castle Rd., San Simeon

  800-444-4445

  www.hearstcastle.com

  The unbelievable former private residence of publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst is farther down on Highway 1 at San Simeon. The name Hearst Castle is no misnomer and may in fact understate the scale of the property, which, in addition to the main house (La Casa Grande), also includes an eighteen-room guesthouse. This beautiful and grand castle was the “hideaway” Hearst used for his supposedly clandestine romance with actress Marion Davies, perhaps the worst-kept secret in America in the 1920s and 1930s.

  The guided tours are very well done and well worth the price of admission ($25 for adults and $12 for children in 2011). You take a designated bus up the hill past what looks like an African savannah: Hearst had his own zoo at San Simeon, and many descendants of the original zebras, elk, goats, llamas, and deer survive on the 250,000 acres that the Hearst family eventually donated to the state of California.

  Hearst Castle was designed by architect Julia Morgan, a petite but formidable and highly talented female and one of the first women to graduate with a degree in civil engineering from the University of California, Berkeley. Construction began in 1919 and lasted until 1947.

  San Simeon Pines

  7200 Moonstone Beach Dr., Cambria

  805-927-4648

  www.sspines.com

  After visiting the Castle, I had intended to stay here, but I was ahead of schedule and decided to proceed to my next destination. The people at San Simeon Pines were very gracious, and the Pines are a must if you are ever in the area.

  Morro Bay

  Inn at Morro Bay

  60 State Park Rd., Morro Bay

  800-321-9566

  www.innatmorrobay.com

  It was a little after twilight when I drove into the circular driveway. The lights were twinkling, and I could see the bay on the other side of the building. My room, on the bay side with parking right in front, was simple, but comfortable and clean, and with a wonderful view—from what I could discern. I was delighted to be where I was.

  I asked for a good, easy-to-reach restaurant, and the staff recommended the Great American Fish Company.

  Great American Fish Company

  1185 Embarcadero

  805-772-4407

  Dinner proved to be fine—nothing fancy. I ordered the “senior portion,” which does not mean large but rather that the patron is over thirty-nine and a half. It was just right. More restaurants should have such an option.

  Waking early the next morning, I discovered what I had not seen in the dark. Whoa! The inn’s brochure describes the surrounding area better than I possibly could: “To the north stands a grove of 100-year-old cypress trees. To the south lies Morro Bay National Estuary [www.mbnep.org]. To the east stretches the 18-hole bay-view Morro Bay Golf Course [www.centralcoastgolf.com]. And directly out front—in the bay—rises the 20-million-year-old, six-story, former volcano given the name Morro Rock [www.morrobay.com/rock.htm] in 1542 by explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo.” I later learned that morro is the Spanish word for a Moorish turban.

  After a light breakfast, and surmising that Morro Bay was probably just another beach community, I set out and discovered not only how very wrong my assumptions were but how very wrong a published review of a place can be. This particular review stated that there was not much to do aside from gawk at Morro Rock and the monstrous oceanfront electrical plant across the water from it.

  Driving Diva Observation: Some people cannot see real beauty if there is an obstacle nearby.

  It turns out that there is a lot to do in this seaside community. A short drive from the inn is the main drag, Morro Bay Boulevard, where I found La Petite and, next door, the Queen’s Closet.

  La Petite

  317 Morro Bay Blvd.

  805-772-2361

  This is a boutique store.

  Queen’s Closet

  325 Morro Bay Blvd.

  805-772-4288

  The Queen’s Closet sells plus-sized apparel. Fortunately (then!), I didn’t qualify to shop there. I learned that it had been in existence for thirty-seven years under three owners.

  You wouldn’t think of recommending a fabric shop as a destination point for a road trip, but the Cotton Ball actually got me twice!

  Cotton Ball

  1199 Main St.

  800-895-7402

  www.thecottonball.com

  This fabulous fabric and trimming shop also has craft supplies and a garden courtyard in the back filled with decorative items. It’s a treasure trove!

  Forcing myself out of the shop and onward, I discovered these spots.

  Best Friends

  480 Morro Bay Blvd.

  805-772-2002

  This shop sells gifts and home decor.

  Art Effects Gallery

  435 Morro Bay Blvd.

  805-772-5159

  www.arteffectsonline.com

  Kathleen McCarthy designs handmade lampshades of a theatrical nature.

  Lina G’s All the Trimmings

  468 Morro Bay Blvd.

  805-772-7759

  This interesting shop has an abundant supply and variety of trimmings and accessories.

  Taco Temple

  2680 Main St.

  805-772-4965

  Taco Temple is a popular eating place. Initially, I was hesitant to visit, but the promise of a California fusion menu lured me in. The card reads, “Taco Temple: Tacos, Burritos, Tostadas: The Freshest California Style Mexican Food on the Coast. Working Chefs & Owners: Adam & Dawnelle.” Taco Temple is small and nothing fancy, but the food is fabulous and the atmosphere friendly. It was wonderful! I wanted to order one of everything. Nothing on the select lunch menu was then over $8.95.

  Back at the Inn at Morro Bay, a most attractive restaurant is the Orchid (805-772-2238, ext. 1711). I dined there following drinks and hors d’oeuvres with one of the inn’s executives. With Morro Bay in the background and an abundance of orchids, the setting was delightful and the dinner delicious. Be sure the Inn at Morro Bay and the Orchid are on your agenda. There is also the Bay Club for casual dining: breakfast, happy hour, and dinner from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.

  Sa
n Luis Obispo

  Madonna Inn

  100 Madonna Rd.

  800-543-9666

  www.madonnainn.com

  One cannot go to San Luis Obispo without at least stopping to take a look at the world-famous Madonna Inn. On the recommendation of friends who told me I would really be “in for something” if I stayed there, I booked a room and gave the place a try. My, my! I hadn’t quite prepared myself for this unique, funky, and wonderful find. Built, owned, and operated by Alex and Phyllis Madonna—Alex being the architect and wife Phyllis the interior designer—the place is the ultimate in California kitsch—nice, original kitsch. (Is that an oxymoron?) The Madonnas opened the first twelve rooms in 1958, but demand was so high that they quickly added another twenty-eight. In 1960 they started construction of the main inn, which now comprises 109 rooms. What makes the inn so unique? For one thing, no two rooms are alike, and they are all themed, from the Cave Man Room, with its rock walls, to the Safari Room, described as a “lively African setting with a jungle twist.” Where else can you stay in a bright red room with two king-size beds, Victorian furnishings, a seven-foot bathtub (so you know the bathroom isn’t small), and a huge rock fireplace that looks like it was designed by Fred Flintstone? The enormous living room also includes a small sink, refrigerator, and coffeemaker. Not that I am recommending it, but a family of ten with sleeping bags would have plenty of room in the Travelers Suite, as my accommodation was named.

  The big, main dining room at the Madonna Inn is the Gold Rush Steakhouse (805-784-2433). Funky, slightly glitzy, sparkling, and more, it is not unattractive. How would you describe a dining room where you are greeted by the “swinging girl,” who has been swinging from the genuine oak branches overlooking the dining room since it opened? A love of pink helps, as there are tufted pink-leather seats, pink tablecloths, and a pink floral-patterned carpet. The ceiling is filled with hundreds of little twinkling lights, which also cover plants throughout the room. Believe it or not, it all works. I had a delicious steak dinner in this twinkling room, and for dessert, a slice of one of the inn’s famous three-layer cakes did the trick. Oh so good!

  Driving Diva Factoid: According to the Madonna Inn brochure, “The twenty-foot gold tree fixture in the main dining room was made from electrical conduit, left over from building projects, as well as some left over copper.”

  The Silver Bar (805-784-2432), which also doubles as the morning meeting place for coffee and a Danish, continues the red-and-pink theme.

  At the Bakery & Pastry Shop (805-784-2437), a more casual meal can be had, and it is most popular with tourists as well as the locals. A large sign proclaiming, “Let’s Eat and Be Forever Happy,” greets you upon your entry—so Madonna Inn! I could wax on about the delicious choices on the menu. I settled for a Monte Cristo and coconut pie. While I was eating, someone came up behind me and asked, “Is everything all right?” Turns out it was Mr. Madonna himself! We quickly conversed, and he introduced me to his buddy Harry Henderson, sitting a seat down from me.

  FYI: As for individual bakery goods, the early bird definitely catches the worm here, as many of the best and most popular items disappear quickly. The bakery aficionados are there very early.

  Shopping options at the Madonna Inn include, for ladies, the My Favorite Things Boutique (805-784-2441)—lucky me! I just happened to be there when there was a sale!—and the Brass Tower Men’s Store, both of which are well and selectively stocked. I learn now that they have been combined.

  FYI: One of their signature items is pink sugar. You can get it in a shaker or by the pound. Next time, at least a dozen will be in my car. Fun!

  Believe it or not, a local attraction for women is the Wine Cellar Waterfall Men’s Room. Yes, I did say men’s room. I’ll leave it at that. Perhaps it presents an ingenious way to avoid left-up toilet seats and unattractive splashes. (Of course, make sure that there aren’t any men in there before you go in.)

  A Mother’s Question: What’s a good way to “train” little boys?

  Speaking of “facilities,” the ladies room is brightly colored, and a sign above the vanity reminds, “Your beauty is your smile”! The restroom also had a small basin and toilet for little ladies. Adorable!

  The Spa at Madonna Inn is just up the hill. If you want to pamper yourself, be sure to make an appointment ahead of time. I found my treatment relaxing and pleasant.

  Driving Diva Factoid: In April 2004, Alex Madonna passed away due to a heart attack. He was eighty-five. It was obvious he had lived a full and creative life, starting his construction business before he graduated from high school. After serving in the army during World War II, he returned to build or repave most of Highway 101. He constructed the bridge over Twitchell Reservoir, which Bridges Magazine named the most beautiful bridge in the country in 1958, the same year the Madonnas opened the Madonna Inn. The rest is history. I feel honored to have met this unique gentleman. I look forward to a revisit and to seeing Mrs. Madonna, her daughter, and her staff. Also, Harry Henderson has passed away. Thank you for special and wonderful memories.

  Just up the road, actually across from the Madonna Inn, is the Madonna Plaza.

  Madonna Plaza Shopping Center

  271 Madonna Rd.

  805-544-5710

  The standard shops are there, and it’s very convenient to the inn.

  Downtown San Luis Obispo

  Downtown San Luis Obispo is just a few minutes away by car from the Madonna Inn.

  Smokin’ Mo’s BBQ

  1005 Monterey St.

  805-544-6193

  www.smokinmosbbq.com

  I recommend Mo’s for lunch. Once I parked the car, I simply followed the aroma. Since it was a little early for lunch, I had a chance to look around. I discovered that when Mo decided to find out what barbecue was all about, he and a buddy traveled across the country to research the cuisine. They visited ten states and over eighty barbecue restaurants, purchasing chairs and taking pictures of cooks. These things now decorate the restaurant that the two buddies built from the ground up. Their goal was to be the finest barbecue restaurant in the West. Whether or not they succeeded, I cannot say, but on the day I ate there, it certainly was. You can purchase some of the sauces to take home, and there are now Mo’s in Pismo Beach, Huntington Beach, and Chico.

  Fortified with barbecue, I left Mo’s to explore the town. I discovered a gem of a place, well cared for and not terribly congested. The main shopping street is Higuera. Here are some of my finds:

  Creamery

  470 Higuera St.

  805-544-1446

  This real creamery has unbelievable homemade ice cream. I’m not an ice cream freak, but this place could have made anyone a convert.

  Finders Keepers

  1124 Garden St.

  805-541-5282

  This consignment boutique was attractive and well kept.

  A major discovery was Brio Caffe.

  Brio Caffe: Cucina Italiana

  1203 Marsh St.

  805-541-5282

  The husband-and-wife team of Manny and Rebecca Estrella have created a treasure. It is not fancy-schmancy, but everything is made from scratch with the freshest foods. The most expensive item on the lunch menu was linguini pescatore: sautéed shrimp, garlic, fresh tomatoes, basil, and button mushrooms tossed with linguine for $10.95. Most lunch items were from $5.25 to $8.35. Everything just right and delicious.

  Santa Barbara

  I have been to Santa Barbara several times, making new discoveries with each visit.

  Bacara Resort and Spa

  8301 Hollister Ave.

  805-968-0100

  www.bacararesort.com

  This is the type of place whose advertisements ooze glamour, luxury, and style. The male and female models smile and hold their champagne glasses out to you, she of the
buffed nails (no fake claws), dark lipstick, full eyebrows, Marcel hairdo, and small breasts, attired in an evening gown that skins the body and draped in diamonds that sparkle right off the page. Am I envious of her body? Well, a little, but after many pregnancies, I wouldn’t exchange my rewards for a figure like that. But perhaps Bacara could work a little magic on me.

  Bacara is not right in Santa Barbara, but more toward Goleta, about fifteen minutes from downtown. I had to use my OnStar to find it, though I confess that I drove by the entrance twice. It was not well marked.

  A huge event was in progress when I arrived, and attendants were all over the place. I parked the car and went in the first big doorway I saw. I waited in line to check in, which was done in a rather haphazard but friendly way.

  The property is so large that golf carts are often used to get to the rooms. The bellman was most helpful in getting me to my accommodations and showing me where the pool, spa, and restaurants were. The room was most attractive with an inviting porch. The walls were very light beige with dark brown ceiling beams. The furniture was mahogany. The ultrawhite bedspread, king bed, oversized pillows, and blue-print quilt were all appealing. There was also a big basket of extra towels. So much for the highlights of Bacara.

  Finding my way around the property was a challenge as the signage is extremely poor. I got lost going up and down hilly pathways until I hitched a ride on a golf cart.

  The shops at Bacara are quite fancy but offered nothing to drool over. A father and daughter I met in one of the shops agreed with me. He was ready to treat and spoil his daughter.

  There are two main restaurants at Bacara: Miro (805-571-4204) and the Bistro (805-571-4217). Miro was closed, so my only choice was the Bistro, which definitely was not a winner. The service was poor, hot soup arrived cold, and my serving of gnocchi was microscopic. The portions were lost on the plate, and when I discussed the matter with the waitress, she brought two more thimble-sized gnocchi. The father and daughter I spoke with in the shop stopped by the table and reported a similarly unimpressive dining experience.