The next night I was to dine with the public relations manager, again at the Bistro, but she was a no-show. However, the chef, David Garwacki, made up for it in the nicest way by joining me at my table and recommending a fantastic meal. Thank you, Chef Garwacki.
There is no question that Bacara is an outstanding property, but the management has some work to do. The pool, which looks huge in the brochures, is not so huge, and the beach is not the cleanest. The seaweed and tar are natural but could, and should, be skimmed. My spa experience there was almost alright. The facilities were what you would expect, but the personnel at the check-in desk (at least when I stood there) could use a little more training. My appointment was changed, as was the treatment I was supposed to have. Maybe they were just having a bad day.
I didn’t leave Bacara looking like anyone in the resort’s ads, but at least I could say that I’d been there. Maybe things will be a little more together next time, if there is a next time.
News as of 2011: No details but Bacara is now under new ownership.
Downtown Santa Barbara
Downtown Santa Barbara is filled with boutiques, restaurants, and a brokerage house or three—or four. The people are attractive and wealthy. Following a devastating earthquake in 1925, the city was largely rebuilt in a Spanish-Moorish style, which contributes to its charm. Chic shops and alfresco dining seem to dominate. The beach and marina are a short walk downhill.
Above downtown is the so-called Riviera.
El Encanto Hotel and Garden Villas
2020 Alameda Padro Serra
805-568-1357
www.elencantohotel.com
A charming, enchanting, lush hideaway on a hillside overlooking the Pacific Ocean in the distance, El Encanto has eighty-four beautifully appointed cottages and villas snuggled into its gardens. It would be easy to do what film star Hedy Lamarr did: move in permanently.
A few years ago I was lucky enough to stay in one of the cottages. The living room had a fireplace and other comfortable furnishings, and my bedroom was cozy. It was oh so nice!
Recently the property was purchased by the elite Orient Express Group, which closed the hotel for restoration and enhancements. It plans to open again. I can imagine it will only be perfect.
Montecito Inn
1295 Coast Village Rd.
805-969-7854
www.montecitoinn.com
Just south of Santa Barbara, this inn is another treasure. Financed by a group of investors headed by screen legend Charlie Chaplin, the Montecito Inn opened in 1928 at a cost of $300,000. It was called “the cream of the coast,” and the first guests included the movie world’s elite, including Carole Lombard, Wallace Beery, Norma Shearer, Janet Gaynor, Marion Davies, and others. Bertrand Harmer was the original architect of this three-story Mediterranean-style building, which had an earthquake-resistant roof.
As times progressed, a driveway into the enclosed parking facility was built, and later a pool, spa, and sauna were added to the rear of the building. A wishing well (lost during construction) was the inspiration for Richard Rodgers’s song “There’s a Small Hotel.”
I’ve never stayed at the Montecito Inn, but I’ve seen the rooms and facilities. Everything is quaint and elegant without overdoing it.
The Montecito Cafe (805-969-3392) is on the main floor, snuggled into a corner of the hotel and facing the street. If the hotel is a treasure then the café is a gem; my lunch there was delicious. Lemon grilled chicken is one of the most popular items. Proprietors Mark and Margaret Huston obviously know what they are doing. The service was excellent, the food delicious, and the ambiance just right. Tables were close together but not offensively so. Better yet, prices were sensible.
Ojai
South of Santa Barbara and east into the mountains is the town of Ojai (pronounced “oh-hi”).
Ojai Valley Inn and Spa
905 Country Club Rd.
805-646-1111
www.ojairesort.com
I had heard about Ojai but never visited this place, which people had described as special. Learning of my book project, the public relations department informed me that the Ojai property was under major renovation and that both accommodations and services would be limited. No problem—I had heard so much about Ojai and wanted to include it in the book. The staff went out of their way to make everything just right and to squeeze as much as possible into my brief visit. They succeeded.
This is Southern California at its finest. In 1922, Edward Libbey (as in the well-known glass company) purchased 220 acres of this beautiful valley to share with his friends. He commissioned California architect Wallace Neff to design a country club with a golf course . . . and, as they say, the rest is history.
Driving Diva Factoid: Ojai means “the nest” or “moon,” and for years it was home to the Chumash Indians. They believed, as some people still do, that the east-west-lying valley had mystical powers. Film director Frank Capra chose the Ojai valley to film the movie Lost Horizon with Ronald Coleman.
Everything from the time I arrived on property was programmed—and nicely so. I was grateful since there was a lot to get in during my brief visit. Upon arriving, I was instructed to check in, leave my bag, change, swim, steam, soak, and eat.
I wanted to sample Spa Ojai’s treatments, and the staff scheduled what they thought would be best. I was to have a “Kuyam” (pronounced “koo-yahm”) at 1 p.m. and a “Zen Shiatsu” massage at 3 p.m. It sounded wonderful. (Would my sons recognize me if they saw me at 4:30?)
Oh my! The Kuyam is Spa Ojai’s signature mud treatment. You leave your robe outside, go into a room, take a seat, and apply Moor mud to your body. I’m sure a spa professional would explain Kuyam differently, but I’m going to relate how I experienced it.
There were six to eight ladies—all strangers to each other—in their birthday suits. (In California you never know what to expect, so I was glad we were all women.) We were seated in a warm, aromatic room, each with our bowl of mud. Some of the ladies smiled, some frowned, and some just wore quizzical expressions on their faces. I can tell you that being nude in a group like this was not everyone’s cup of mud. I applied the Moor mud as instructed to as much of my body as possible. It did not feel particularly glamorous, but I was hopeful. The mud seemed to be doing something to my skin as it firmed up—that is, as the mud firmed up. Soon we were guided in meditation, which was pleasant and definitely different. Then the room began to fill with herb-scented steam released from vents for “inhalation therapy.”
A Swiss shower to wash off the Moor mud followed this part of the treatment. Let me tell you, this mud does not willingly come off the body, especially when it gets into the body’s crevices. (Mine are more like ravines.) This is followed by a second shower for final cleansing; then, you are lotioned, wrapped in a warm linen sheet, and taken to the outdoor loggia to reflect. The price is what you would expect, and yes, I would do it again, just in case it takes two sessions to improve the body, mind, and those crevices.
The scheduled Zen Shiatsu message was most pleasant. This treatment is meant to stimulate and restore balance to the body by releasing blockages along the energy pathways. It involved moderate-to-strong touch using shi (finger) and atsu (pressure). A nonoil treatment, Shiatsu promotes overall well-being by restoring vitality to your body as well as relieving stress, muscular discomfort, and fatigue.
The thirty-one-thousand-square-foot Spa Ojai includes every type of spa amenity you can imagine. This professionally run spa is for women and men who aim to improve themselves via several types of treatments and through cardiovascular fitness, as well as yoga and meditation. Reservations are a must, since this award-winning spa is also open to outside guests.
The Ojai Valley Inn and Spa is a 308-room resort on 220 acres. Walking the grounds is magical. Do you know another place that “encourages guests to
gather fresh herbs in the garden for a wreath-making class”? The standard sports are all offered, but I chose to go horseback riding, which proved relaxing and scenic. I had ridden quite a bit in younger days, so this was pretty easy.
The signature restaurant is Maravilla, serving exceptional California cuisine with a view of the Topatopa Mountains. The Oak Grill serves classic American cuisine, and you can eat inside or on the terrace, where the magnificent oaks keep you company. Café Verde is in the spa. Jimmy’s Pub has an upscale bar menu and is a popular sports bar on property.
I was particularly impressed by how the Ojai Valley Inn and Spa treated its employees. As I mentioned, the property was undergoing major renovation when I was there. Usually when this occurs, staff members are laid off temporarily—but not at Ojai. In order to keep unneeded staff members employed during the renovation, the resort offered training in construction skills such as hanging sheet rock, painting, and plastering so that these staff members could participate in the work and keep that paycheck coming in. I found this exceptionally thoughtful of the owners, the Crown family, and the workers I spoke with took great pride in what they were doing and told me how much they enjoyed being part of the renovations. Applause! Applause!
Driving Diva Update: The Ojai Valley Inn and Spa received AAA’s Five Diamond Award in 2007.
Addendum: The owners of Ojai Valley Inn and Spa built Casa Elar, a beautiful Tuscan-style villa. Its provenance alone reveals that Casa Elar is exceptional. There are two suites downstairs and a master suite upstairs, as well as a private massage room, elevator, great room, entertainment room, and so much more. The gourmet kitchen and extra rooms, private pool and spa, and shaded terrace with stone pizza oven and gas BBQ all overlook the valley. You can rent this spectacular oasis, and there is no doubt you will have a fantastic experience.
Suzanne’s Cuisine
502 W. Ojai Ave.
805-640-1961
www.suzannescuisine.com
We enjoyed dinner at Suzanne’s Cuisine, which is located a short drive off property. Opening this special “cuisine” in 1992, Suzanne had become a gourmet fixture and Ojai star by 2000. Her menu is exceptional; only the finest items and freshest herbs are used to create her specialties. The interior of this restaurant is calming and understated. Suzanne was previously an interior decorator, and her decorating talents have not been lost here. One could say that this restaurant gem is a family affair. Daughter Sandra, who has an MBA in finance and marketing, now runs the business side as well as lunchtime. Mother tends to other things until the evening, when she is back at the helm.
Three of us dined together. Among the superb courses we shared were crab and corn cakes with white sauce, shrimp and mango salad, fried crab cake balls with hoisin sauce, halibut, lamb chops, shrimp with ginger sauce, coffee ice cream with Kahlua and chocolate syrup, and coconut ice cream. Everything about Suzanne’s is gem quality, and you will agree. Enjoy.
At first glance, the town of Ojai itself doesn’t seem that impressive, but during the very short drive to Suzanne’s, I was surprised by all that I saw. Then the next day I saw more. It was Sunday, and the farmers’ market (www.ojaicertifiedfarmersmarket.com) was bustling, as were several attractive, upscale shops. While most places weren’t for the bargain hunter, I did find a consignment shop. It is fun to look.
I look forward to revisiting this fabulous place—Ojai.
On the Road Again
Seventeen miles northwest of Los Angeles, but somehow still “in” LA, is the magnificent Getty Center.
Getty Center
1200 Getty Center Dr.
301-440-7330
www.getty.edu
Admission is free, although, before 5 p.m., parking will set you back $15 per car (in 2011). Situated high atop a mountain overlooking the San Diego Freeway, the Getty Center is a wonderful place to visit, even if you’re not an art aficionado.
You park your car and take a tram up to the center’s Arrival Plaza, some 881 feet above sea level. I would suggest getting the “Map and Guide” folder and the “Architecture & Gardens” folder, both of which are extremely helpful and easy to read.
Driving Diva Factoid: The Getty Center uses 164,648 square feet of exterior glass, and the travertine used on the buildings—one hundred shiploads’ worth—is from the same quarry as that used to build the Colosseum and the colonnade of St. Peter’s Basilica.
There are three different eateries at the Getty: fine dining on the plaza level at the Restaurant (310-440-6810; reservations recommended), cafeteria-style dining on the lower level in the Cafe at the Getty Center, and coffee, lunch, and snacks at the Garden Terrace Cafe, also on the lower level but with outdoor seating only.
Santa Monica
Ten miles from the Getty Center is Santa Monica, where hardly an inch of prime oceanfront property has gone undeveloped. Famous for its fabulous beach, pier with arcade, famous 1922 merry-go-round, and chic celebrity inhabitants, it had a surprising number of squatting people on and around the beach: bodybuilders (male and female), jugglers, guitar players, and what I call meditators and contemplators (people staring into space or chanting). It was more bizarre than dangerous, but as a woman, I wouldn’t strike up an impromptu conversation with any of these characters. (A friend of mine’s daughter once ran away to Santa Monica, causing my friend to fly post haste to get the daughter back and on her medication. From what I saw, it is not a place you would want your child to escape to with or without her meds!)
Now to the beautiful, attractive, funky, and delightful finds I made in Santa Monica.
Georgian Hotel
1415 Ocean Ave.
310-395-9945
www.georgianhotel.com
Built as a hideaway for the stars in 1933, the Georgian takes you back into another era. I found it just as the brochure described it: a light blue edifice with a wonderful big porch facing the ocean. Entering the lobby, you can just picture the dignified participants in one of those clandestine affairs of yore. After checking in, I was shown to the mahogany-paneled elevator, where, lo and behold, there was a real, live elevator operator.
My room was comfortable, although darkish in decor. The bathroom was “original,” but the nice touch was the rubber ducky by the tub, and the accommodations were clean and comfortable.
The wonderful porch is the highlight of the Georgian Hotel. You can sit and watch the beach scene as you enjoy breakfast—such an excellent way to start the day. (The hotel’s restaurant is the Veranda, and the original Speakeasy is now used for special events.)
Driving Diva Update: Since I visited, the Georgian has been renovated and the elevator replaced, presumably putting its operator out of work.
Montana Avenue
In Santa Monica, Montana Avenue (www.montanaave.com) is ten blocks of eclectic, upscale boutiques, coffee shops, cafés, and restaurants. Take your time. There is a lot to see. The Third Street Promenade is a wide, bustling, three-block stretch open only to pedestrians. It contains over fifteen movie theaters, a collection of shops and restaurants, and hordes of people. There is a lot of street entertainment on the promenade, such as dancers, magicians, fortune tellers, and the like.
Los Angeles
Thirteen miles from Santa Monica is downtown Los Angeles. There are several ways to get there, but my favorite is Wilshire Boulevard.
Where else to stay in downtown LA but the fabulous Millennium Biltmore Hotel?
Millennium Biltmore Hotel
506 S. Grand Ave.
213-624-1011
www.millenniumhotels.com/Biltmore
Built in 1923, this grand dame is indeed a magnificent beauty. Touted as the “toast of the coast,” this impressive building was designed by Schultz and Weaver (designers of the Waldorf Astoria, among other prominent properties). The nearly seven hundred rooms (of all types and sizes) are v
ery comfortable. When I stayed there, I was upgraded to a suite, so I had a lot of room. The decor was appropriate for a historic hotel, mixing the new with the old. The ballroom, known as the Biltmore Bowl, hosted the Academy Awards in the 1930s and 1940s, and the lobby is adorned with photographs from that era.
Tea is served daily in the beautiful Rendezvous Court (213-612-1562), which was at one time the hotel’s main lobby. This afternoon tradition lasts from 2 to 5p.m.; champagne, sherry, and kir are also on offer. This is a great respite after a busy morning, but I don’t recommend having tea late in the day if a big dinner is planned. The Rendezvous Court also has a bar. The Gallery Bar and Cognac Room are very cosmopolitan and a wonderful place to meet someone for drinks. Both are also congenial if you are alone. When I was there, I exchanged much chatter with the bartender about my hotel adventures, past and present. A couple drinks and the evening was a wrap—and delightfully so.
Dining at the Biltmore has always been exceptional. Smeraldi’s Restaurant (213-612-1562) serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner and specializes in Californian Mediterranean cuisine. There is also Sai Sai Restaurant (213-624-1100) with its sushi bar and modern Asian cuisine.
The Biltmore used to have something called the chef’s dinner, for which you were invited to dine in the kitchen. I was delighted to receive such an invitation. The original china, crystal, and silverware were used, and not a thing was left undone. The menu card for my chef’s dinner read, “Le Grand Menu (Inspired by the Spartan’s Award Dinner 1946 with a 21st century twist).”
The chef outdid himself, and my dinner dates—the then general manager, his wife, the public relations manger, and a few other personnel—all combined to make it a very memorable evening.
The Biltmore is located downtown and, some say, off LA’s beaten path. But there is still a lot going on in the area.
Museum of Contemporary Art
250 S. Grand Ave.
213-626-6222
www.moca.org
Romancing the Roads Page 26