The museum also has a sensibly priced café.
Walt Disney Concert Hall
111 S. Grand Ave.
323-850-2000
www.laphil.com
Home to the Los Angeles Philharmonic, the hall is about half a mile from the Biltmore.
Staples Center
1111 S. Figueroa St.
213-742-7340
www.staplescenter.com
Home of the Lakers, the arena is just five minutes from the Biltmore.
Conveniently, the Pershing Square metro station is across the street from the Biltmore.
Broadway is also just a short walk away and contains several congested blocks of little shops, primarily Hispanic. I wouldn’t venture out onto Broadway at night, but during the day, you’re fine if you keep your street sense about you.
Pink’s
709 N. La Brea Ave.
323-931-7594
www.pinkshollywood.com
I had heard so much about this unique landmark beyond downtown that I could not wait to see and eat firsthand. The drive to Pinks takes you through a bit of Hollywood; then you turn onto nondescript North La Brea Avenue, and there in front of you is Pink’s. It was not even 11 a.m., but people of every variety were already queuing up to place their orders.
Pink’s opened in 1939 and apparently hasn’t changed much since then. Famous for its variety of chili dogs, I decided on an “almost-loaded” concoction, full of taste and artery-clogging possibilities. Still, I ate every bit of this monster. Pink’s is very reasonably priced but accepts cash only, and the lines can be long. I found it well worth the wait.
Beverly Hills
Beverly Hills’s much-touted Rodeo Drive (www.rodeodrive-bh.com) is actually only three blocks long. It purports to be the most famous shopping district in America and the three most expensive blocks of shops in the world. Well, if you say so.
Bijan
420 Rodeo Dr.
310-273-6544
www.bijan.com
Bijan is supposed to be the most expensive boutique in the world, requiring an appointment just to shop there—even if you are only in the market for a $50 pair of socks. Still, much has changed since Julia Roberts traipsed down the famous drive in Pretty Woman. Many of the fancy stores are still there, but so are the same chain stores that you can find in Kalamazoo.
A creatively designed mall called Two Rodeo is a recent development.
Two Rodeo Drive
9480 Dayton Way, Ste. 200
310-247-7040
www.2rodeo.com
Essentially an upscale, small, outdoor mall, with tenants like Tiffany, Valentino, Cartier, Jose Eber, and others, Two Rodeo has small shops, various restaurants, and no bargains, but it is still very attractive.
Driving Diva Tip: “Gently worn” used, upscale clothing can be found at Rodeo Drive Resale in Sherman Oaks (not Beverly Hills).
Rodeo Drive Resale
13727 Ventura Blvd.
713-777-0390 or 888-697-3725 (MY-RESALE)
www.rodeodriveresale.com
The selection is quite large, and “100% authenticity” is guaranteed. Their website is excellent, and you can take advantage of the fabulous collections.
Beverly Wilshire Hotel
9500 Wilshire Blvd.
310-275-5200
www.fourseasons.com/beverlywilshire
This grand hotel is not far from Rodeo Drive. Hollywood’s stars and history over the years have added to the property’s reputation. As a tribute to the hotel’s construction, it has withstood three earthquakes and served as an air raid shelter during World War II. There have been many owners over the years, but Hernando Courtright and his group of investors brought the hotel to elite status and made it an enclave for the Hollywood crowd. Pennies have never been pinched as it is continually being updated, the latest renovation being a $35 million makeover in 2005. The restaurants are excellent, but if you have to ask the price, then . . . well, that should give you a clue.
Driving Diva Factoid: The Beverly Wilshire uses black dinner napkins so you don’t get bits of white linen on your dark clothes. Excellent. I was told they were the first to use black napkins. Very considerate.
Riverside
Fifty-five miles east of Los Angeles, Riverside is the navel orange capital of California. It’s charming, with its Victorian homes and the very unique Mission Inn Hotel & Spa.
Mission Inn Hotel & Spa
3649 Mission Inn Ave.
951-784-0300
www.missioninn.com
Built in 1876, the Mission Inn Hotel has grown in many stages and is now the size of an entire city block. Its turrets, domes, circular stairs, art collections, bell collection (largest in the world), wedding chapel, and Tiffany windows all evoke the feel of a Spanish town. No two of its 238 Spanish-themed rooms are the same.
The inn contains Kelly’s Spa (800-440-5910) and five restaurants. Duane’s Prime Steaks & Seafood is baronial in atmosphere and serves a fine steak. 54° at Duane’s offers wines and tapas in a modern setting. The Mission Inn Restaurant (951-341-6767) offers more traditional fare. Adjacent is the Spanish Patio, the perfect place for alfresco dining. Las Campanas features Mexican cuisine and outdoor dining in the garden. The Presidential Lounge (888-326-4448) was at one time a four-room apartment used by eight U.S. presidents, and Richard and Pat Nixon were married here. It now has live jazz on Friday and Saturday, and the menu is casual. Another gastronomic addition at the Mission Inn is Bella Trattoria, which offers southern Italian cuisine: pasta, pizza, pressed panini sandwiches, and more. The ultimate for every sweet tooth is Casey’s Cupcakes. These cupcakes of many varieties won Cupcake Wars on the Food Network.
Driving Diva Factoid: The inn participates in Riverside’s spectacular annual Festival of Lights, which lasts from the day after Thanksgiving until the end of the first week in January. Some 2 million lights adorn holiday decorations all over the property, aided by frequent live singing of carols.
Long Beach
I’d say that the beach community of Long Beach has a lot of potential. It’s a little funky in places and chic in others, but it also has a city aura, perhaps because Los Angeles is so close.
Note: You can take the metro from LA to Long Beach.
Driving Diva Factoid: The post office had bulletproof-glass windows!
Queen Mary
1126 Queens Hwy.
562-435-3511 or 877-342-0738
www.queenmary.com
A famous Long Beach landmark, the Queen of the Seas is permanently docked here and is now a hotel. Checking in, you board the Queen Mary just as if it were about to sail, and then you are shown to your cabin.
The Queen Mary not only transported the elite “across the pond,” but during World War II it served as a troopship, transporting over eight hundred thousand soldiers and traveling over six hundred thousand miles. After the war and some 1,001 transatlantic crossings, the city of Long Beach had the foresight to purchase the ship in 1967. After extensive overhauling in 1972, the Hotel Queen Mary was opened.
Everything is as it was on the original steamship, except some of the engines have been removed. There are many places to dine and imbibe on board, from the elegant Sir Winston’s Restaurant & Lounge (562-499-1657) to the Promenade Café, the Observation Bar, and the Chelsea Chowder House & Bar (562-499-6695). Since I was on board, a lot has been added in the way of entertainment, such as Tibbies Great American Cabaret (888-484-2243) and Vamp: The Lounge (562-499-6625).There is also an annual Art Deco Festival as well as other special events.
Obtaining passage on the Queen Mary is a unique way to have a shipboard-hotel experience. Accommodations start at around $190 and up, and no Dramamine is needed!
Scorpion
1126 Queens Hwy.
&n
bsp; 562-435-3511
www.russiansublongbeach.com
The Scorpion, a Russian submarine of the Foxtrot class (to be tediously precise, a Povodnaya Lodka B-427), is docked next to the Queen Mary. Open to the public, the Scorpion is in near-operational condition.
Driving Diva Plan: On your next trip to Long Beach, take the ferry to special Catalina Island.
Carlsbad
Less than one hundred miles from Los Angeles is Carlsbad, but don’t let the distance fool you: It took me almost three hours to get there in typical Southern California traffic.
La Costa Resort and Spa
2100 Costa Del Mar Rd.
760-438-9111 or 800 854 5000
www.lacosta.com
My visit to this feature of Carlsbad coincided with the Acura Tennis Tournament, so the place was jammed, and much of the hotel was closed off since it was undergoing a $140 million renovation. While the staff definitely could have used a little help managing the crowds, getting my car parked and checking in was not a problem. Bellmen take you and your bags around in golf carts since La Costa’s terrain is hilly (but scenic). As with many such resorts, there was no real signage, so I had to make a mental note of landmarks so that I didn’t get lost among the hills. But even with all the construction and the tennis tournament, I was pleased to see how well everything was functioning.
The accommodations were most attractive and the view from the porch outside my room wonderful.
La Costa features a beautiful golf course, many tennis courts, inviting swimming pools, and even a center for children. Eating options include Legends Bistro, a pleasant way to start the day sitting outside amid the beautiful scenery, but the breakfast buffet was ordinary. Blackbirds made themselves right at home on my chair and even on the table. (This was not a problem; in fact, it was rather nice.) Since my visit, BlueFire Grill has been added, and from what I hear it’s wonderful.
In addition to the Spa at La Costa (800-729-4772), where I enjoyed a very good treatment, La Costa is home to the Chopra Center for Well-being (888-424-6772), founded by new age guru Deepak Chopra, “which offers programs in mind body medicine, yoga, self-discovery, emotional wellness, meditation and personal empowerment.”
From all I experienced here at La Costa, KSL Resorts has a gem of a Carlsbad property.
Driving Diva Munch Discovery: Pei Wei Asian Diner (pronounced “pay way”; www.peiwei.com) uses the freshest ingredients, cooked to order and sensibly priced. Enjoy! Find one and go enjoy.
Out and about in greater Carlsbad and on into Rancho Santa Fe and Encinitas, one finds lots of upscale neighborhoods, small boutique shopping areas, and places to stop and snack.
Sheri Designer Resale
920 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas
858-481-3843
Carolyn’s Designer Resale
1310 Camino Del Mar
760-943-1556
Carolyn’s has top-quality designer clothes at reasonable prices.
Just down the highway is Thrifty Threads.
Thrifty Threads
607 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas
760-753-0028
This is an eclectic, colorful shop.
Dana Point and Points South Again
The following discoveries are not listed in travel order due to scheduling and reservation availability.
Heading north from Carlsbad, my next destination was Dana Point, specifically the St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort.
Driving Diva Humble Confession (a First!): I had already driven almost six thousand miles, so perhaps white-line fever was finally getting to me. Anyway, I pulled into this impressive entryway to be met by a very efficient doorman and bellman, the latter of whom whisked my bags away. Upon checking in, I was presented with the news that I did not have a reservation. I quickly took out my confirmation letter and realized that I had just done something totally “blonde”: I was in the lobby of the Ritz, not the nearby St. Regis!
St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort
One Monarch Beach Resort
949-234-3200
www.stregismb.com
There’s one word for the St. Regis: “splendid.” This is not just another impressive property. I felt as if I were in a palatial Arabian Night’s setting—though the hotel information says the interior design is Tuscan inspired. The decor begins at the reception desk and continues throughout, with commissioned paintings, formidable mirrors, ceiling murals, and glass art by Dale Chihuly. Yes, it is a museum of sorts, complete with a listing and description of each piece of art.
The view from the lobby is of the huge pool and then the magnificent Pacific Ocean. If you walk to the far end of the pool and look back, the splendor and magnificence of the property are easy to grasp. I found the accommodations everything you would expect—excellent in every way.
There are three pools: the Main Pool, the Lagoon Pool, and a three-lane lap pool at the Spa Gaucin fitness center (949-234-3367) in the spa. At the Main Pool you can rent a fully equipped cabana with a private patio, flat-screen TV, DVD video system, CD stereo, fax machine, cordless telephone, ceiling fan, and Internet access including Wi-Fi. Oh my! I could have just stayed there.
The private six-acre beach and Monarch Bay Club (949-234-3330) are available only to registered overnight guests and are accessible only by the hotel’s tram.
There are many half- and full-day activities for children, and include studying seashells, building sand castles, riding waves, playing tennis, taking etiquette classes, doing yoga, and more. The experienced babysitters at the St. Regis are also trained in CPR, first aid, and child care.
Dining options at the St. Regis include Motif (949-234-3272), which offers a “small plate,” with many (perhaps too many) choices presented rather haphazardly. (I don’t like to have to ask for bread and butter, for example.) Sunday brunch at Motif is expensive with or without champagne, but the restaurant does offer forty different types of pancakes. Reservations are a must. The private Club 19 (949-234-3685) at the Monarch Beach Golf Links offers breakfast—at which I queried the stated freshness of the orange juice—and a full lunch at the Lobby Lounge (949-234-3309) provides seating inside or out with an ocean view. Here you must order this decadent delight: truffle butter popcorn. So good! The Monarch Bay Club served me what I can only call a perfect dinner: scallops on a bed of spinach with a thin sauce to start, a Caesar salad, and a steak entrée.
At the tiny shop Crust (949-234-3471), you can get breakfast, sandwiches, all sorts of coffee, and other delicious treats if you don’t want to sit in a restaurant.
I have been told the Stonehill Tavern (800-722-1543) is only fabulous. It had not opened when I was there.
Then, of course, there is Spa Gaucin (949-234-3367). As you enter, the scent of fresh flowers fills the air, as does the sound of the spa’s three-story waterfall. The toss of a coin into the “Well of Desires,” to symbolize your leaving all cares behind, begins your spa treatment. There are many treatments to choose from, but I enjoyed every split second of an orange frappé lathering. Orange, honey, and yogurt were spread over my body, which was then wrapped in steamy, warm linens. This fruity treatment was then followed by a scalp and face massage and a citrus mist of my entire body, followed by a shower, followed by a cream orange lotion massage. (I’ve gone limp just writing about it.) A very relaxing stay by the pool in the spa area capped off the afternoon. There is a very healthy café at Spa Gaucin.
The town of Dana Point itself is quiet and charming, encompassing only 6.5 square miles with a population of about thirty-five thousand, including Monarch and Capistrano bays. This is obviously a savvy, affluent community.
On the Road
There are two “on-the-road” gastronomical beacons this Driving Diva adores. One might refer to them as hamburger joints. Call them whatever you want; just know they are d
eliciously fabulous and not pricey, and their other items are equally good.
In-N-Out
800-786-1000
www.in-n-out.com
This establishment started in 1948 with three very simple criteria: highest-quality foods, friendly service, and sparkling-clean environment. You’ll find hamburgers, cheeseburgers, french fries, milk shakes, Coca-Cola classic and other standard drinks, plus iced tea, coffee, and milk. There are many locations. Look for this delight and park and enjoy.
Ruby’s
30622 Coast Hwy. 101, Laguna Beach
949-497-7829 (RUBY)
www.rubys.com
Ruby’s advertises “the Best Burger in Orange County” and just may be right. Also delicious are the sandwiches, soups, salads, fries, shakes, and other wonderful food. These 1950s-style diners can be found throughout California. They also serve breakfast and lunch/dinner. Ruby’s burgers and sliders have zero trans fats. Ruby’s is a must. The atmosphere, decor, and music all blend so well that you might want to get up and Lindy Hop.
Laguna Beach
Due to its topography and proximity to Hollywood, arty and attractive Laguna Beach was a haven for stars and starlets. Walking shoes are suggested.
San Clemente
Just down the coast and (in)famous as the residence of President Richard Nixon, San Clemente is also a popular spot for tourists, as the many rental properties along the beach indicate. I managed to find one thrift store, and there are probably more.
Toby’s House Thrift and Gift
110 S. El Camino Real
949-361-7721
www.tobyshouse.com
Proceeds go to help abused women, so of course I bought something.
La Jolla
La Jolla (pronounced “la hoya,” meaning “the jewel”) is further south. It’s a dressy place. I don’t mean fancy—just neat and not sloppy. There are lots and lots of shops and eateries but few bargains.
Deli-icious: The Locals Deli
1237 Prospect St., Ste. J
858-456-6235
This was a definite find with nothing on the menu over $6 (then). It was delightful and felt very good to sit down.
Coronado
Romancing the Roads Page 27