Tibetan Foothold

by Dervla Murphy

  In June 1999 came heart-breaking news – a World Bank loan is to fund the resettlement of 55,750 Chinese farmers in Qinghai province, on its western plateaux and steppes, regions sparsely populated since time immemorial by Tibetan nomadic herders. Among these people, Tibetan culture of a peculiar but genuine sort has so far survived uncontaminated by the Han invasion. The World Bank’s US$160 million will bring about the destruction of a way of life that cannot possibly co-exist with the proposed project. According to the bank’s vice-president for East Asia, the loan will ‘provide seeds, fertilisers, forests, irrigation, land improvement, basic roads …’ Very likely, given the altitude and temperature extremes of western Qinghai, this resettlement scheme will become yet another of the World Bank’s infamous failures – leaving in its wake a voiceless multitude of uprooted and starving Chinese peasants and dispossessed and demoralised Tibetan nomads.

  The US government – the World Bank’s major shareholder – has vigorously opposed the Qinghai project, as has Germany, the third-largest shareholder. Yet the bank approved the loan on 24 June, defying the US for the first time in its history.

  There is a theory – I forget, if I ever knew, who first articulated it – that the Tibetan diaspora, though so heart-breaking for most of those involved, must benefit the rest of the world. Does this seem like a Shangri-la fantasy? Many Tibetan exiles, having set up business enterprises that do better if not too closely scrutinised, are unlikely to edify their neighbours. (In Old Tibet everyone, from the richest nobles to the poorest peasants, traded enthusiastically whenever the opportunity arose.) Yet I can easily believe that the majority of exiles, living quietly out of the limelight, are continually enriching the communities among whom they have settled. I know that my months of close companionship with Amala changed me by some mysterious process of osmosis – not in any obvious way, but inwardly. At the end of that happy time, the first local friends I met (an eminently civilised couple, by our standards) seemed almost crude in their perceptions, attitudes and reactions. Yet I was never even momentarily tempted to ‘become a Buddhist’, for the reasons which I hope have emerged incidentally in the preceding pages.

  Lismore, June 1999

  About the Author

  Dervla Murphy’s first book, Full Tilt: From Ireland to India with a Bicycle, was published in 1965. Over twenty other titles have followed, including an account of travels in Northern Ireland during the 1970s, a volume against nuclear power, a consideration of race relations in England during the 1980s and a highly-acclaimed autobiography, Wheels Within Wheels. Dervla has won worldwide praise for her writing and many awards, including the Christopher Ewart-Biggs Memorial Prize.

  Now in her early eighties, she continues to travel around the world, happily setting off to trek in remote mountains, and remains passionate about politics, conservation, bicycling and beer.

  Dervla Murphy was born in 1931 in Co. Waterford, where she still lives when not travelling. Her daughter, Rachel, and three young granddaughters live in Italy and join Dervla on her travels when possible.

  Index

  Aiken, Frank, 1

  Allen, Deirdre, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Alton Khan, 1

  Ambala, 1

  Ambans, 1

  Amdo, region of Tibet, 1

  Aran Islands: see Inishere

  Ariel, Joan, 1

  Arnd, Sigrid, 1

  Atisha, Pandit, 1

  Aut, 1

  Babusar Pass, 1

  Baijnath, 1

  Bardo Thodol (Book of the Dead) 1, 2

  Beas River, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Beck, Mr, 1

  Bedi, Freda (Principal of Young Lamas’ School, Dalhousie), 1, 2, 3

  Bell, Robert, 1

  Benares, 1

  Betts, Doris, 1, 2, 3

  Bhuntar, 1, 2, 3

  Bhutan, 1, 2, 3

  Bland, Mrs, 1

  Bombay, 1

  Bön religion, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Burke, Mr and Mrs, 1

  Burma, 1

  Buxton, Jill, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12

  Calcutta, 1, 2

  Cama Yishy, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

  Canadian University Service Overseas, 1, 2

  Ch’ang-an, 1

  Chapman, Spencer, author of Lhasa: The Holy City, 1

  Chenrezig, Spirit of, 1

  Chensal Namgang 1

  Cheshire Home: see Kalkaji

  China, 1, 2

  Chingis Khan, 1

  Chota Simla, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Chumba, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

  Chumba Valley, 1, 2

  CIA 1

  Clinton, Bill 1

  Cork, 1

  Dalai Lama, H.H. the, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16

  Dalhousie, 1, 2, 3

  — Young Lamas’ School, 1, 2

  Dall Lake, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Daramkote, 1

  Darjeeling, 1, 2

  Dato Nik Kamil, 1

  Davies, Mrs, 1

  Dawa Norbu, 1, 2;

  Tibet: The Road Ahead, 1

  Dehra, 1

  Dehra Dun, 1

  Dela, 1

  Delhi, New, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12

  —, Old, 1, 2

  Deng Xiaoping, 1

  Dharamsala, Upper and Lower, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

  Dhauladhur, 1

  Dhondrup, 1

  Diki, 1

  Dixon, Sir Pierson, 1

  Dolma, 1, 2

  Döme, Tibetan province, 1

  Donnet, Pierre, 1

  Döte, Tibetan province, 1

  Dowa, a Tibetan cobbler, 1

  Dubkay, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6– 7, 8

  Eggler, Herr Albert, 1

  Evans-Wentz, Dr, 1, 2, 3, 4

  European Parliament, 1

  exiles, Tibetan, 1

  Forsythe Bazaar, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

  Galway, 1

  Gangtok, 1

  Gelder, Stuart & Roma: The Timely Rain, 1, 2

  Gelug-Pa, sect, 1, 2

  Geneva, 1;

  UN High Commission for Refugees, 1

  Gomhol, Tibet, 1

  Gushri Khan, 1

  Gyari, Lodi Gyaltsen, 1

  Haimendorf, Professor C., von Fürer-, 1

  Harun Al-Rashed, Caliph, 1

  Haslem, Dr, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Himachal Pradesh, 1

  Inishere, Aran Islands, 1

  International Commission of Jurists, 1

  Ireland, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Jalori Pass, 1, 2, 3

  Jamdagnishri (Jamlu), 1, 2, 3

  James, Lois, 1, 2

  Jamieson, Mr, 1

  Janpath, 1

  Jari, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Jiang Zemin, President of China, 1

  Jullundur, 1

  Jung, Carl, 1, 2

  Kagan Valley, 1

  Kailas (sacred mountain), 1

  Kalimpong, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Kalkaji, Cheshire Home in, 1

  Kalsang Lhawang, 1

  Kangra, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  — Boys’ School, 1, 2, 3

  — Canadian Mission Hospital, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  — School for Tibetan Girls, 1, 2,

  — Valley, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

  Kasauli, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Kashag, The (Tibetan Cabinet), 1

  Kashmir Cottage, 1, 2

  Kazi Dawa-Sandup, Lama, 1

  Kennedy, President, 1, 2

  Kesang, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Kham, region of Tibet, 1

  Khanag, 1

  Khantoul, 1

  Kiang-Hsi, Emperor, 1

  Kublai Khan, 1, 2

  Kulu, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

  —Valley, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

  Kundeling, Mr, 1, 2, 3

  Ladakh, 1

  Lahoul, 1

  Lang Darma, King of Tibet, 2, 1

  Lang-Sims, Lois, 1

  Lhamo, 1, 2

  Lhasa, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

  Lismore, 1

  Llewellen,
Mrs, 1

  Lobsang, 1, 2

  Lobsang Dowa, 1

  Ludhiana Hospital, 1

  Luhri, 1

  Macleod Ganj, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12

  Malana, 1, 2, 3

  Manali, 1, 2, 3

  Manchuria, 1

  Mandela, Nelson, 1

  Mandi, 1, 2, 3

  Mandi-Largi Gorge, 1, 2

  Manikand, 1

  Manor, The (Simla), 1, 2, 3

  Maraini, Fosco, 1

  Maskell, Juliet, 1, 2, 3, 4– 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28

  Menon, Krishna, 1

  Menteth, Mr and Mrs Stuart, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

  Migot, Dr André, author of Tibetan Marches, 1

  Murray, Doris, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8o

  Murree, 1

  Mussoorie, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9

  — Tibetan Children’s Homes, 1

  — Tibetan Refugee School, 1

  Namgyal, 1

  Nanda Devi, Mt, 1

  Narkanda, 1

  Nehru, Pandit, 1, 2

  Nepal, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Neufe, M. (head of YMCA World

  Organisation for Refugees) and Mme, 1

  Ngawang Lobsang Gyatso, 1, 2

  Nobel Peace Prize 1

  Ockenden Venture, 1

  Pach Marhi, 1

  Padma Sambhava, 1, 2, 3

  Pakistan, 1

  Palampur, 1

  Panchen Lama, The, 1, 2, 3

  Pandoh, 1

  Parvati Valley, 1, 2

  Pasang, 1

  Pathancot, 1, 2

  Pearce, Joyce, 1

  Pema-La (younger sister of the Dalai Lama), 1, 2

  Peters, Mr (head of YMCA, India), 1

  Phalla, 1, 2

  Pol-den Lha-mo, Abbess, 1

  Pooh-Bah (Puba), 1, 2

  Potala, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Pullen, Judy, 1, 2

  Punjab, 1

  Radhakrishnan, Dr, 1, 2

  Raghunathjee, 1

  Rahola, 1

  Rahula, Ven. Dr Wolpola, 1

  Raison, 1, 2

  Richardson, Hugh, 1, 2, 3

  Rinchin, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Rothang Pass, 1

  Rupi, State of, 1

  Sakya Pandita 1, 2

  Samye, Tibetan Monastery, 1

  Save the Children Fund, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

  Sawnay, Sister, 1, 2

  Senn, Dr Oliver, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24;

  his fiancee, Claudia, 1, 2

  Service Civil International, at Kasauli, 1

  Shat, 1

  Shigatse 1, 2

  Shoja, 1

  Sikkim, 1, 2, 3

  — Maharajah of, 1

  Simla, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15

  Snell, Dr and Mrs, 1

  Sonam, Mr (chief interpreter to the Dalai Lama), 1

  Sonam Dorje, 1

  Sonam Nobo (Tenzing Chockia), 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  South China Morning Post, 1, 2

  Spiti, 1, 2, 3

  Stirling Castle, Simla, 1, 2, 3

  Strasbourg Statement, 1

  Sutlej River and Valley, 1

  Suyin, Han: Lhasa, The Open City, 1

  Swiss Tibetan Homesteads, 1, 2

  Switzerland, 1, 2, 3

  Taktser 1

  Taring, Jigme Sumchan Wang-Po Namgyal, 1, 2

  Taring, Rinchen Dolma, 1, 2; Daughter of Tibet, 1

  Tenzing, Sherpa of Everest, 1

  Thondup, 1

  Thupten Gyatso, 1

  Tibetan Book of the Dead: see Bardo Thodol

  Tibetan Drama School, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Tibetan Government-in-Exile, 1, 2 3, 4, 5

  Tom Dooley Foundation, 1

  Triund Rest House, 1

  Tsarong, Tsi-pon, 1

  Tsiring Dolma, Mrs (sister of the

  Dalai Lama), 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12

  Tsiring Thondup, 1

  Tsong-Kapa, 1

  Tubung Churbu Monastery, Abbot of, 1, 2

  Umadevi, 1, 2

  US Congressional Human Rights Caucus, 1

  Utsang, province of Tibet, 1

  Vietnam, South, 1

  Waddell, Dr L. A., 1

  Westropp, Jenny, 1

  Williams, David, 1, 2

  Woodroffe, Sir John, 1

  World Organisation for Refugees, 1

  Yamdrock Lake, 1

  Yangchen Dolma, 1

  Yangste River, 1

  Yonten Gonpo, Yuthok, 1

  Younghusband Expedition, 1

  Young Lamas’ School: see Dalhousie

  YMCA, Indian, 1

  Zimey, Rimpoche, 1

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  Eland was started in 1982 to revive great travel books that had fallen out of print. Although the list has diversified into biography and fiction, it is united by a quest to define the spirit of place. These are books for travellers, and for readers who aspire to explore the world but who are also content to travel in their own minds. Eland books open out our understanding of other cultures, interpret the unknown and reveal different environments as well as celebrating the humour and occasional horrors of travel. We take immense trouble to select only the most readable books and therefore many readers collect the entire series.

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