by Lisa Chaney
7 Ibid.
8 Paul Morand, Journal inutile, January 11, 1971.
9 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 292.
10 Ibid.
11 Ibid., p. 300.
12 Diana Mosley, ed., The Letters of Nancy Mitford, p. 267.
13 Morand, Allure, p. 140.
14 Ibid., p. 65.
15 Claude Delay, Chanel Solitaire, p. 52.
16 Swiss Archive documents cited above.
17 Morand, Allure, p. 171.
18 Ibid., p. 143.
19 Ibid., p. 73.
20 Ibid., p. 120.
21 Ibid., p. 169.
22 Ibid., pp. 172–73.
23 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 267.
24 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 380.
25 Haedrich, p. 237.
26 In an interview and a number of telephone conversations, Michel Déon was most helpful in his nonjudgmental attitude toward Gabrielle, including the fantasies crucial to her sanity.
27 Michel Déon interview with author, August 2009.
28 Ibid.
29 Ibid.
30 Ibid.
CHAPTER 29: Return: 1954
1 Dodie Kazanjian and Calvin Tomkins, Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman, p. 205.
2 Christian Dior, Dior by Dior, p. 16.
3 Ibid.
4 Ibid., p. 4.
5 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion, p. 237.
6 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 197.
7 Ibid., p. 200.
8 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 120.
9 Chanel Conservatoire interview with Jean Cazaubon.
10 Galante, p. 207.
11 Cocteau, Le passé défini: Journal, vol. II.
CHAPTER 30: I Prefer Disaster to Nothingness
1 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 169.
2 Ibid., p. 171.
3 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 210.
4 Susan Train interview with author, September 2008. Ms. Train’s vivid recall of this dramatic episode was inspiring.
5 Ibid.
6 Ibid.
7 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 18.
8 An ex-Chanel model in conversation.
9 Lady Derwent interview with author, May 2008.
10 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion, p. 311.
11 Ibid.
12 Galante, p. 225.
13 Diana Vreeland, DV, p. 132.
14 Ibid., p. 131.
15 Ibid., p. 130.
16 Ballard, p. 60.
17 Vogue, March 1959.
18 Marquand, p. 87.
19 Ibid., pp. 93, 119.
20 Roland Barthes, The Language of Fashion.
21 Haedrich, p. 215.
22 Ibid., p. 245.
23 Ibid., p. 240.
24 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 45.
25 Galante, p. 268.
26 Morand, Allure, p. 52.
27 Galante, p. 269.
28 Haedrich, p. 178.
29 Ibid.
3 °Claude Delay, Chanel Solitaire, p. 142.
31 Ibid., p. 145.
CHAPTER 31: I Only Hear My Heart on the Stairs
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 55.
2 Claude Delay, Chanel Solitaire, p. 49.
3 Marika Genty, whose knowledge and apprehension of Gabrielle are almost unrivaled, in interview with author, September 2008.
4 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 222.
5 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 276.
6 An ex-Chanel model in conversation.
7 Morand, Allure, p. 21.
8 Ibid.
9 Michel Déon in interview with author.
10 Haedrich, p. 260.
11 Morand, Allure, p. 38.
12 Haedrich, p. 214.
13 Paul Morand, Journal inutile, June 3, 1969.
14 Claude Delay, interview with author, January 2010. Madame Delay’s thoughts on her friend’s inner life were instructive, and her comprehension of Gabrielle as unable to survive without her fantasies is most perceptive.
15 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 43.
16 Claude Delay in interview with author, January 2010.
17 Marquand.
18 Delay, p. 147.
19 Ibid., p. 161.
20 Ibid.
21 Claude Delay in interview with author, January 2010.
22 Haedrich, p. 259.
23 Marquand, p. 167.
24 Claude Delay in interview with author, January 2010.
25 Marquand, pp. 150–51.
26 Haedrich, p. 86.
27 An ex-Chanel model in conversation.
28 Delay, p. 164.
29 Massaro interview, Marika Genty.
30 Michel Déon, Bagages pour Vancouver, p. 276.
31 Morand, Allure, p. 169.
AFTERWORD: Those on Whom Legends Are Built Are Their Legends
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 175.
2 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 226.
3 Un Roi Seul, Dir. T. Demaizière and A. Y. Teurlai, 2008.
4 Suzy Menkes in interview with Karl Lagerfeld, International Herald Tribune, November 2010.
5 Un Roi Seul.
6 Morand, Allure, p. 21.
7 Chanel interview BNF.
8 Suzy Menkes in interview with Karl Lagerfeld, International Herald Tribune, 2010.
9 Haedrich, p. 17.
10 Morand, Allure, p. 45.
SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY
WORKS ON CHANEL
Baudot, François, Chanel, New York: Assouline, 2003.
Bott, Daniele, Chanel: Collections and Creations, London: Thames and Hudson, 2007.
Charles Roux, Edmonde, Chanel, trans. Nancy Amphoux, London: HarperCollins, 1989.
——, The World of Coco Chanel, London: Thames and Hudson, 2005.
Delay, Claude (née Baillén), Chanel Solitaire, trans. Barbara Bray, London: Collins, 1973.
Fiemeyer, Isabelle, Coco Chanel: Un parfum de mystère, Paris: Petite Bibliothèque Payot, Editions Payot & Rivages, 2004.
Galante, Pierre, Mademoiselle Chanel, trans. E. Geist and J. Wood, Chicago: H. Regnery, 1973.
Gidel, Henry, Coco Chanel, Paris: Editions Flammarion, 2000.
Haedrich, Marcel, Coco Chanel, trans. C. L. Markmann, London: Robert Hale, 1972.
Haye, Amy de la, Chanel: The Couturière at Work, London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1994.
Leymarie, Jean, Chanel, Geneva: Editions d’Art Albert Skira, 1987.
Madsen, Axel, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, New York: Henry Holt and Co., 1990.
Marquand, Lilou, Chanel m’a dit, Paris: Editions Jean-Claude Lattès, 1990.
OTHER WORKS
Acton, Harold, Memoirs of an Aesthete, London: Hamish Hamilton, 1984.
Acton, Harold, More Memoirs of an Aesthete, London: Methuen, 1970.
Alexander, Grand Duke of Russia, Always a Grand Duke, New York: Farrar & Rinehart Inc., 1933.
Association des Amis d’André Gide, ed., Cahiers André Gide, vol. VIII, Paris: Gallimard, 1979.
Ballard, Bettina, In My Fashion, New York: David McKay, 1960.
Barthes, Roland, The Language of Fashion, Oxford: Berg, 2006.
Baudelaire, Charles, “The Painter of Modern Life” in The Painter of Modern Life and Other Essays, trans. and ed. Jonathan Mayne, London: Phaidon, 1964.
Beaton, Cecil, Beaton in the Sixties, Unexpurgated Diaries (ed. Hugo Vickers), London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 2003.
——, The Glass of Fashion, London: Cassell, 1954.
Bedford, Sybille, Quicksands, London: Hamish Hamilton, 2005.
Beevor, Antony, and Cooper Artemis, Paris After the Liberation, 1944–1949, London: Penguin, 2007.
Benstock, Shari, Women of the Left Bank, London: Virago, 1994.
Bernheimer, Charles, Figures of Ill Repute, London: Duke University Press, 1997.
Bernstein-Gruber, Georges, Bernstein le magnifique, Paris: Editions J. C. Lattès, 1988.
Billot, Marcel, ed., Journal de l’Abbé Mugnier (1877–1939), Paris: Mercure de France, 1985.
Blanche, Emile, More Portraits of a Lifetime, trans. Walter Clement, London: Dent and Sons, 1939.
——, Revue de Paris, t.6 279: Au Bureau de Revue de Paris.
Bodley, Ronald Victor Courtenay, Indiscretions of a Young Man, London: Harold Shaylor, 1931.
Buckle, Richard, Diaghilev, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1979.
Callil, Carmen, Bad Faith, London: Jonathan Cape, 2006.
Callwell, Sir C. E., Sir Henry Wilson: His Life and Diaries, London: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1927.
Capel, Arthur, De quoi demain sera-t-il fait?, Paris: Librairie de Médicis, 1939 (What Will Tomorrow Be Made Of?). trans. Adelia Sabatini. Published posthumously.
——, Reflections on Victory and a Project for the Federation of Governments, London: Verner Laurie, 1917.
Chadwick, Whitney, and Tirza True Latimer, eds., The Modern Woman Revisited, New Brunswick, NJ, and London: Rutgers University Press, 2003.
Chazot, Jacques, Chazot Jacques, Paris: Editions Stock, 1975.
Churchill, Winston and Clementine, Speaking for Themselves, ed. Mary Soames, London: Black Swan, 1999.
Clermont-Tonnerre, Elisabeth de, Mémoires, vol. I: Au temps des équipages, Paris: Bernard Grasset, 1928.
Clermont-Tonnerre, Elisabeth de, Mémoires, vol. II: Les marronniers en fleurs, Paris: Bernard Grasset, 1929.
Clermont-Tonnerre, Elisabeth de, Mémoires, vol. III: Clair de lune et taxi-auto, Paris: Bernard Grasset, 1932.
Clermont-Tonnerre, Elisabeth de, Mémoires, vol. IV: La treizième heure, Paris: Bernard Grasset, 1935.
Cocteau, Jean, Journal 1942–1945, Paris: Gallimard, 1989.
——, Le passé défini: Journal, vol. V (1956–57), Paris: Gallimard, 2006.
Cocteau, Jean, Lettres à Sa mere, Paris: Gallimard, 1989.
——, Lettres à Jean Marais, Paris: Albin Michel, 1987.
——, Past Tense: Diaries, vol. I, London: Hamish Hamilton, 1987.
——, Past Tense: Diaries, vol. II, London: Methuen, 1990.
Colette, Autobiographie, Paris: Fayard, 1968.
——, The Complete Claudine, trans. Antonia White, New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2001.
——, My Apprenticeship, Music Hall Sidelights, London: Secker and Warburg, 1957.
Corbett, Patricia, Verdura, London: Thames and Hudson, 2002.
Craft, Robert, Stravinsky: Chronicle of a Friendship, New York: Alfred Knopf, 1972.
D’Abernon, Helen Venetia Duncombe Vincent, Red Cross and Berlin Embassy, 1915–1926: Extracts from the Diaries of Viscountess d’Abernon, London: John Murray, 1946.
Dalí, Salvador, Hidden Faces, trans. Haakon Chevalier, London: Peter Owen, 1973.
Das Braune Netz — Wie Hitlers Agenten in Auslande arbeiten und den Krieg vorbereiten, Paris: Editions du Carrefour, 1935 (The Brown Network: The Activities of the Nazis in Foreign Countries, New York: Knight Publications, 1936).
Davis, Mary E., Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism, Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 2006.
Débordes, Jacqueline, Coco Chanel, Olliergues: Editions de la Montmarie, 2006.
Demonpion, Denis, Arletty, Paris: Flammarion, 1996.
Déon, Michel, Bagages pour Vancouver — Mes arches de Noé, Paris: La Table Ronde, 1985.
Deslandres, Yvonne, and Florence Muller, Histoire de la mode, Paris: Flammarion, 1978.
Dior, Christian, Dior by Dior, trans. Antonia Fraser, London: V&A Publications, 2001.
Doerries, Reinhard R., Hitler’s Last Chief of Foreign Intelligence: Allied Interrogations of Walter Schellenberg, Portland, Oregon: Frank Cass Publishers, 2003.
Duncan, Isadora, My Life, New York: Boni and Liveright, 1927.
Egremont, Max, Under Two Flags: The Life of Major General Sir Edward Spears, London: Phoenix, 1998, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1997.
Eksteins, Modris, Rites of Spring, London: Black Swan, 1990.
Elgey, Georgette, La république des illusions, 1945–1951, Paris: Grasset, 1975.
Etherington-Smith, Meredith, The Persistence of Memory: A Biography of Dalí, New York: Random House, 1992.
Fenosa, Nicole, and Bertrand Tillier, Apelles Fenosa: Catalogue raisonné de l’œuvre sculpté, Barcelona: Ediciones Polígrafa, 2002.
Field, Leslie, Bendor: Golden Duke of Westminster, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1983.
Fizdale, Robert, and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, London: Macmillan, 1980.
Flanner, Janet, Paris Was Yesterday, New York: Popular Library, no date.
Flügge, Manfred, Heinrich Mann: Eine Biographie, Reinbek: Rowohlt, 2006.
——, Rettung ohne Retter, oder, Ein Zug aus Theresienstadt, Munich: Deutscher Taschen-buch, 2004.
Font, Lourdes, Fashion Theory, vol. VIII, September 2004: Oxford: Berg, 2004.
Franck, Dan, Bohemian Paris, trans. Cynthia Liebow, New York: Grove Press, 2001.
Garafola, Lynn, The Ballets Russes and Its World, eds. Lynn Garafola and Nancy van Norman Baer, New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1999.
Goncourt, Edmond, and Jules Goncourt, Pages from the Journal, ed. and trans. Robert Baldick, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1978.
Grana, César, and Marigay Grana, On Bohemia: The Code of the Self-Exiled, London and New Brunswick, NJ: Transaction, 1990.
Grandjonc, Jacques, and Theresia Grundtner, Zone d’ombres 1933–1944. Exil et internement d’Allemands et d’Autrichiens dans le Sud-Est de la France, Aix-en-Provence: Alinéa, 1990.
Grange, Ernest de la, Open House in Flanders, London: John Murray, 1929.
Green, Julian, Journal 1938–49, Paris: Plon, 1969.
Guitard-Auviste, Ginette, Paul Morand, 1888–1976: Légende et verités, Paris: Editions Bal-land, 1994.
Harrison, Michael, Lord of London, London: W. H. Allen, 1966.
Heller, Gerhard, Un Allemand à Paris, 1940–1944, Paris: Editions du Seuil, 1981.
Hickman, Katie, Courtesans, London: Harper Perennial, 2004.
Home, Sir Archibald, The Diary of a World War I Cavalry Officer, Tunbridge Wells: Costello, 1985.
Hugo, Jean, Carnets (1946–1984), Paris: Actes Sud, 1994.
——, Le Regard de la mémoire (1914–1945), Paris: Actes Sud, 1983.
Hussey, Andrew, Paris: The Secret History, London: Penguin Books, 2007.
Israel, Lee, Estée Lauder, London: Arlington Books, 1986.
Jackson, Julian, France: The Dark Years, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2001.
Jones, Colin, Paris: Biography of a City, London: Penguin, 2006.
Kahan, Sylvia, Music’s Modern Muse: The Life of Winnaretta Singer, Rochester, NY: University of Rochester Press, 2003.
Kazanjian, Dodie, and Calvin Tomkins, Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman, New York: Knopf, 1993.
Kerrigan, John, The Sonnets and a Lover’s Complaint, London: Penguin, 1995.
Kiste, John Van der, The Romanovs, Sutton: Stroud, 1998.
Kochno, Boris, Christian Bérard, Paris: Editions Herscher, 1987.
——, Diaghilev et les Ballets Russes, Paris: Fayard, 1973.
Laval, Michel, Brasillach ou la trahison du clerc, Paris: Hachette, 1992.
Lifar, Serge, Ma Vie, trans. James Holman Mason, London: Hutchinson, 1976.
McMillan, James, ed., Modern France, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2003.
——, Twentieth-Century France, 1898–1991, London: Arnold, 1992.
Malraux, André, Antimémoires, Paris: Gallimard, 1967.
Marx, Samuel, Queen of the Ritz, London: W. H. Allen, 1979.
Maurois, Michelle, Déchirez cette lettre, Paris: Flammarion, 1990.
Morand, Paul, L’Allure de Chanel, Paris: Hermann, 1976.
——, The Allure of Chanel, trans. Euan Cameron, London: Pushkin Press, 2008.
——, Chroniques, 1931–1954, Paris: Grasset, 2001.
——, Journal inutile, Paris: Gallimard, 2001.
; ——, Lettres du voyageur, Paris: Editions du Rocher, 1988.
——, Lewis et Irène, Paris: Grasset, 1924.
——, Venices, trans. Euan Cameron, London: Pushkin Press, 2002.
Muggeridge, Malcolm, Chronicles of Wasted Time, vol. XI, The Infernal Grove, London: Collins, 1973.
Musée Cévenol, Un secret Cévenol de Coco Chanel, Le Vigan: Gard, no date.
Norwich, John Julius (ed.), The Duff Cooper Diaries, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 2005.
Novick, Peter, The Resistance versus Vichy, London: Chatto and Windus, 1968.
Pavlovna, Marie, Grand Duchess of Russia, A Princess in Exile, New York: Viking Press, 1932.
Picardie, Justine, Coco Chanel, London: HarperCollins, 2010.
Plessix Gray, Francine du, Them, London: Penguin, 2006.
Poiret, Paul, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret, trans. Stephen Haden Guest, Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1994.
Pomian, John, ed., J. Retinger: Memoirs of an Eminence Grise, Sussex: Sussex University Press, 1972.
Pougy, Liane de, My Blue Notebooks, trans. Diana Athill, London: André Deutsch, 1979.
Pritchard, Jane, ed., Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes (exhibition catalogue), London: V&A Publishing, 2010.
Ragache, Jean-Robert, La vie quotidienne des écrivains et des artistes sous l’Occupation, 1940–1944, Paris: Hachette, 1988.
Reverdy, Pierre, Prose Poems, trans. Ron Padgett, New York: The Brooklyn Rail Black Square Editions, 2007.
Reves, Wendy and Emery, The Wendy and Emery Reves Collection, Dallas: Dallas Museum of Art, 1985.
Richardson, John, A Life of Picasso, vol. II, London: Pimlico, 1997.
——, A Life of Picasso, vol. III, London: Jonathan Cape, 2007.
Ridley, George, Bend’Or, Duke of Westminster, London: Robin Clark, 1985.
Rose, Francis C., Saying Life: The Memoirs of Sir Francis Rose, London: Cassell, 1961.
Rothschild, Guy de, The Whims of Fortune, London: Granada, 1985.
Rounding, Virginia, Grandes Horizontales, London: Bloomsbury, 2004.
Rubinstein, Arthur, My Many Years, London: Cape, 1980.
Sachs, Maurice, Au Temps du Boeuf sur le Toit, 1939 reprint, Paris: Grasset, 2005.
——, La décade de l’illusion, Paris: Gallimard, 1950.
Scheijen, Sjeng, Diaghilev, trans. J. Headley Price and S. J. Leinbach, London: Profile Books, 2009.
Schellenberg, Walter, Schellenberg, ed. and trans. Louis Hagen, London: Mayflower Books, 1965.