by Lisa Chaney
Schiaparelli, Elsa, Shocking Life, London: J. M. Dent, 1954.
Schwartz, Vanessa, Spectacular Realities: Early Mass Culture in Fin-de-siècle Paris, Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 1999.
Sert, Misia, Two or Three Muses, London: Museum Press, 1953.
Servadio, Gaia, Luchino Visconti: A Biography, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1981.
Simone, André, Men of Europe, New York: Modern Age, 1941.
Simpson, Colin, Artful Partners, London: Unwin, 1988.
Sire, H. J. A., Gentlemen Philosophers: Catholic Higher Education at Liège and Stonyhurst 1774–1916, Worthing: Churchman Publishing, 1988.
Snow, Carmel, The World of Carmel Snow, New York: McGraw-Hill, 1962.
Stanley, Edward, Paris 1918: War Diary of the British Ambassador, Liverpool, UK: Liverpool University Press, 2001.
Steegmuller, Francis, Cocteau, London: Constable, 1986.
Steele, Valerie, Paris Fashion: A Cultural History, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1988.
——, Women of Fashion: Twentieth-Century Designers, New York: Rizzoli International Publications, 1991.
Stendhal, The Red and the Black, trans. M. R. Shaw, London: Penguin, 1969.
Stravinsky, Igor, An Autobiography, New York: W. W. Norton, 1962.
Stuart, Amanda Mackenzie, Consuelo and Alva Vanderbilt, London: HarperCollins, 2005.
Sydney, Philip, Modern Rome in Modern England, London: The Religious Tract Society, 1906.
Symons Barrow, George de, The Fire of Life, London: Hutchinson, 1942.
Thurman, Judith, Secrets of the Flesh: A Life of Colette, London: Bloomsbury, 2000.
Train, Susan, ed., Le théâtre de la mode, Paris: Le May, 1990.
Vreeland, Diana, DV, New York: Da Capo Press, 1997.
Walsh, Stephen, Igor Stravinsky: A Creative Spring: Russia and France 1882–1934, London: Pimlico, 2002.
Weber, Eugen, Peasants into Frenchmen, Stanford: Stanford University Press, 2007.
Westminster, Loelia, Duchess of, Grace and Favour, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1961.
Wilcox, Claire, ed., The Golden Age of Couture: 1947–57, London: V&A Publications, 2007.
——, ed., Radical Fashion, London: V&A Publications, 2001.
Wilson, Edmund, A Literary Chronicle of the Forties, London: W. H. Allen, 1951.
Wilson, Elizabeth, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, London: Virago Press, 1985.
ARCHIVES
Archives of the Association Sainte Agnès, Saint-Martin-le-Vinoux, France.
Archives Fédérales Suisses.
Capel, Arthur, correspondence, courtesy of Christopher Osborn.
Capel, Diana, correspondence to Duff Cooper, Churchill Archives Centre, Churchill College, Cambridge.
Chanel, Gabrielle, correspondence, courtesy of the Chanel Conservatoire.
Churchill Papers, Churchill Archives Centre, Churchill College, Cambridge.
Dalí correspondence, courtesy Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, Figueres, Spain.
Municipal Archives, Biarritz, France (Mairie de Biarritz, Service des Archives).
Municipal Archives, Garches, France (Mairie de Garches, Service des Archives — Documentation).
National Archives, Kew. Foreign Office records, FO 944/35 and FO 371/70892.
National Archives, Kew. War Office Records, WO339/55790, Arthur Capel file.
National Archives, Paris (Fonds Chanoine Mugnier).
Pavlovich, Dmitri, diaries, translated by William Lee, courtesy of Prince Chavchavadze.
Ponsonby, Dorothy, diaries, courtesy the Honorable Laura Ponsonby.
ILLUSTRATION CREDITS
1. View from Ponteils; author’s photo.
2. The Chanel inn, Ponteils; author’s photo.
3. Aubazine; author’s photo.
4. Gabrielle and Adrienne Chanel c. 1904. Courtesy
LIFE
©. All rights reserved.
5. Etienne Balsan c. 1903. Courtesy of Antoine Balsan and Philippe Gontier.
6. Gabrielle Chanel c. 1910. Apic/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
7. Emilienne d’Alençon, 1875. Apic/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
8. Royallieu. All rights reserved.
9. Arthur Capel c. 1910. Courtesy of Christopher Osborn.
10. Arthur Capel and Gabrielle Chanel on horseback c. 1910. Courtesy
LIFE ©
All rights reserved.
11. Arthur Capel on horseback c. 1910. Courtesy of Christopher Osborn.
12. Gabrielle in her own hat designs;
Comoedia Illustré
, 1910. All rights reserved.
13. Gabrielle Dorziat in “Marie-Louise” hats;
Comoedia Illustré
, 1910. All rights reserved.
14. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat, 1912. All rights reserved.
15. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat;
Journal des Modes
, 1912. All rights reserved.
16. Adrienne and Gabrielle Chanel in front of her Deauville shop. Courtesy
LIFE
©. All rights reserved.
17.
Tangoville sur mer
, caricature of Coco Chanel and Arthur Capel by Sem; Bibliothèque des Arts Decoratifs, Paris/Archives Charmet/Bridgeman Art Library.
18. Gabrielle and friends outside Deauville shop c. 1914. Courtesy Ville de Deauville ©. All rights reserved.
19. Coco Chanel playing golf c. 1913; Apic/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
20. Coco Chanel and Arthur Capel on the beach at St-Jean-de-Luz, 1915; Apic/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
21. Pablo and Olga Picasso, 1917; Popperfoto/Getty Images.
22. Diana Capel by John Sargent; Private Collection.
23. The Capel Polo Trophy. Courtesy Polo de Paris; photo Adelia Sabatini.
24. Sergei Diaghilev and Igor Stravinsky; © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
25. Igor Stravinsky, José Maria Sert, Gabrielle Chanel and Misia Sert, 1920; Igor Stravinsky Collection; © Paul Sacher Foundation, Zurich.
26. Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich. From
Chanel: A Woman of Her Own
, Axel Madsen. All rights reserved.
27. Gabrielle and her dog at the Faubourg St-Honoré; Henri de Beaumont; All rights reserved.
28. Gabrielle Chanel and Dmitri Pavlovich c. 1921; All rights reserved.
29. Chanel N
°
5 by Sem, Musee Carnavalet/Roger Viollet/Getty Images.
30. Dancers from
Le Train bleu
, 1924; © Hulton Deutsch Collection, CORBIS.
31. Dancers from
Le Train bleu
, 1924; © Hulton Deutsch Collection, CORBIS.
32. Lubov Tchernicheva in
Apollon musagète
Courtesy
Dancing Times
Archive
.
33. Pierre Reverdy; Roger Viollet/Topfoto.
34. Paul Morand c. 1910; Martinie Roger Viollet/Getty Images.
35. Duke of Westminster;
Sunday Telegraph
, all rights reserved.
36. Eaton Hall; Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
37. Randolph and Winston Churchill with Coco Chanel; Hulton Archive/ Getty Images.
38. Marion Morehouse in dress by Chanel c. 1926; © Condé Nast Archive/ CORBIS.
39. Coco Chanel at Biarritz, 1928; FPG/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
40. Coco Chanel, Misia and José Maria Sert, etc., on the Venice Lido; © Mary Evans/Rue des Archives/Talendier.
41. Gabrielle Chanel skiing with Etienne de Beaumont,
etc.
Henri de Beaumont. All rights reserved.
42. Coco Chanel in jersey suit c. 1931; Getty Images.
43. Coco Chanel in white satin pajamas; Photo by New York Times Co./Getty Images.
44. Coco Chanel with Lady Pamela Smith and models, 1932; © Bettmann/ CORBIS.
45. Coco Chanel with Cecil Beaton c. 1937; Joh
n Phillips/Time & Life Pictures
Getty Images.blockquote>
46. Coco Chanel and Fulco di Verdura, 1937; Lipnitzki Roger Viollet/Getty Images.
47. Gabrielle with Salvador Dalí c. 1938. Image Rights of Salvador Dalí reserved. Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, Figueres, 2011.
48. Gabrielle with Apelles Fenosa; Hoyningen Huene c. 1939. © R. J. Horst. Photo: courtesy Staley/Wise Gallery NYC.
49. Baroness M. van Zuylen and Serge Lifar; © Mary Evans/Rue des Archives/ Tallandier.
50. Baron Hans von Dincklage, passport photograph, 1950.
51. Model wearing Chanel suit; © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS.
52. Model in tiered strapless gown with roses; © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS.
53. Coco Chanel on mirrored staircase at her couture house, 1954; © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS.
54. Chanel models at 31 rue Cambon, 1958; Roger Viollet/Topfoto.
55. Coco Chanel pinning dress on model 1959; Archive Photos/Getty Images.
56. Animal sculptures in Chanel’s rue Cambon salon; © Simon Upton, The Interior Archive.
57. Dining room in Chanel’s rue Cambon apartment; © Massimo Listri/ CORBIS.
58. Fashion designer Coco Chanel c. 1965; © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS.
59. Models attending mass for Coco Chanel; © Bettmann/CORBIS.
INDEX
Abdy, Lady
Abernon, Helen d’
Abetz, Otto
Abetz, Suzanne
Action Française
actresses
Aimée, Anouk
Alain-Fournier
À la recherche du temps perdu (Proust)
Albania
Alcazar
aldehydes
Alençon, Emilienne d’
Alexander, King of Yugoslavia
alienation
Allenby, Edmund
Allied Force Headquarters
Allied War Coal Commission
Allure of Chanel, The (Morand)
Amazons
American Emergency Rescue Committee
Amiot, Félix
Angèle (seamstress)
Antigone (Sophocles)
anti-Semitism
Apollinaire, Guillaume
Apollon musagète (ballet)
Après-midi d’un faune, L’ (ballet)
Aquascutum
Aragon, Louis
A. Rallet & Co.
Arbuthnot-Leslie, Mrs. William
Arcangues, Comtesse Mimi D’
archery
architecture
Argentina
Arletty
Arnaud, Marie-Hélène
Arrivabene, Madina
Arrivabene, Niki
Astruc, Gabriel
atelier system
Aubazine convent
Aubert, Mme.
Auden, W. H.
Auric, Georges
Auschwitz
Austria
Avedon, Richard
Bacall, Lauren
Bader, Théophile
Bailey, David
Baker, Josephine
Bakst, Léon
Balanchine, George
Bal du Comte d’Orgel, Le
Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Ballard, Bettina
Ballets Russes
Balmain, Pierre
Balsan, Charles
Balsan, Consuelo Vanderbilt
Balsan, Etienne
and Coco’s relationship with Capel
as horseman
in proposals to Coco
as womanizer
Balsan, Jacques
Balsan, Robert
Balzac, Honoré de
Banque de France
Barney, Natalie
Barrie, J. M.
Barrow, George de Symons
Barthes, Roland
Barthou, Foreign Minister
Basilica of Saint Anthony, Padua
Bate, Frederick
Bate-Lombardi, Vera
battle of the sexes
Beaton, Cecil
Beaufort Castle
Beaumont, Edith
Beaumont, Etienne de
Beaumont College
Beaux, Ernest
Bedford, Sybille
Beige
Bel Ami (Maupassant)
belle excentrique, La (ballet)
Bel Respiro
Bend’Or
Bérard, Christian (Bébé)
Bergen, Candice
Bergman, Ingrid
Bernhardt, Sarah
Bernstein, Antoinette
Bernstein, Georges
Bernstein, Henri-Adrien
Berthelot, Philippe
Besson, Luc
beuglants
Biarritz, France
bias-cut clothes
Bibesco, Princess Marthe
Bibliothèque Nationale
biches, Les (Diaghilev ballet)
Blanche, Jacques-Emile
Bloomingdale’s
blues
Blue Train
Blum, Léon
boeuf sur le toit, Le (Cocteau)
Boeuf sur le Toit, Le (bar)
Bohan, Marc
Boldini, Giovanni
Bon Marché, Le
Bonnard, Pierre
Boulez, Pierre
Bouquet, Carole
Bouquet de Catherine
Bourdelle, Antoine
Bourjois
Bousquet, Marie-Louise
boussac, Marcel
Bow, Clara
brands
Braque, Georges
Breker, Arno
Bresson, Robert
Breton, André
British Expeditionary Force
British War Office
Brosse
Brown Network, The
Brunhoff, Maurice de
Brunhoff, Michel de
Buchenwald
Bullitt, William
Burberry
Burton, Richard
cabarets
Café de Paris
café society
Caillavet, Simone de
calisthenics
camellia flower
Capel, Ann Diana France Ayesha
Capel, Arthur
birth of
Coco’s first meeting with
Coco supported by
death of
inheritance of
letters of
marriage proposal to Wyndham by
on Misia’s decorations
in Morand’s novel
poor health of
rumored paternity of
in Sem’s caricature
at Sorel’s dinner party
treatise on women by
at Versailles conference
will of
womanizing by
work done by
in World War I,
Wyndham’s affair with
Capel, Arthur Joseph
Capel, Bertha
Capel, Berthe
Capel, Edith
Capel, June
Capel, Marie-Henriette
Capel, Thomas
Caracciolo, Olga
Cardin, Pierre
Cartier
Caryathis (Elise Toulemon)
Casa Maury, Marquise de
Casati, Luisa
Castelain, Admiral
Castellane, Boni de
Castries, Countess
Catholics
Céline (Gabrielle’s maid)
Cendrars, Blaise
Cévennes, France
Chagall, Marc
Chaillet, Robert
Chamberlain, Neville
Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne
Chambrun, René de
Chanel, Adrienne
advertising for Coco by
in affair with de Nexon
beuglants visited by
clothing of
death of
at draper’s shop
at Notre Dame convent
> suitors of
Chanel, Alphonse
birth of
death of
placed with peasant farmers
Chanel, Angélina
Chanel, Antoinette
in Aubazine convent
at Biarritz shop
birth of
in Coco’s hat shop
in departure to Buenos Aires
marriage of
at Notre Dame convent
suicide of
Chanel, Eugénie Jeanne Devolle:
Coco’s reminiscences of
death of
marriage of
pregnancy of
work by
Chanel, Gabrielle (Coco):
appearance of
artistic character of
artists supported by
in Aubazine convent
“aunts” of
autobiographical stories of
Balsan’s affair with
Balsan’s proprosals to
Bend’Or’s affair with
beuglants visited by
birth of
bisexuality of
Capel’s affair with
Capel’s death and
Capel’s educating of
Capel’s support for
Catholicism of
Chapel’s marriage and
childhood pranks of
cleanliness as preoccupation of
collaboration charge against
Dalí’s affair with
in Dalí’s novel
dancing by
death of
d’Harcourt’s affair with
at draper’s shop
drug use of
education of
effects of Depression on
in escape from World War II Paris
estate of
grudge against family held by
hats worn by
as horsewoman
importance of socializing to
independence pursued by
influence sought by
injuries of
intelligence of
Iribe’s affair with
kidnapped by Resistance
lack of sophistication in
life story desired by
Lipchitz’s sculpture of
loneliness of
luxurious lifestyle of
make-believe practiced by
memoirs of
as modern woman
modesty of
money earned by
in Morand’s novel
mother’s death and
myth of
needlework of
nickname of
at Notre Dame convent
novels read by
at Parade’s premiere
paradoxes of
Pavlovich’s affair with
peace settlement negotiations of
photos of
polo learned by
practicality of
at premier of Rite of Spring
as rejected by father
as reluctant writer