An Irresistible History of Alabama Barbecue

by Don Wilding

  In every region of Alabama, people can find one of these famous barbecue restaurants within a relatively short drive. They are mostly located immediately off federal and state highways. In 1946, Cotton’s Barbecue opened on U.S. Highway 63 between Montgomery and Lake Martin, a favorite destination of swimmers, boaters, campers and golfers.216 In 1947, Atkin’s BBQ opened in Eutaw off U.S. Highway 43. In the 1950s, I-20 became the major route for travelers between Tuscaloosa and Jackson, Mississippi, and Atkin’s BBQ sits just off this interstate.217 In 1949, Johnny Graves opened Johnny’s Bar-B-Q not far from U.S. Highway 31 in Cullman between Birmingham and Decatur.218 In 1958, Rocket Drive Inn, known as the Rocket, opened in Jacksonville on Alabama Highway 21 north of Anniston.219

  Throughout the state, Alabamians and tourists can find places just like these, with especially high concentrations in Birmingham and the Tennessee River Valley. Of the twenty-nine restaurants in the Alabama Barbecue Hall of Fame, sixteen started in either the Birmingham area or the Tennessee River Valley from Hollywood to the Shoals.

  The stories behind these restaurants demonstrate how the war, the rise of the middle class and the highway system have influenced the development of Alabama barbecue.

  BIRMINGHAM

  In 1871, Birmingham became a city and attracted corporate investment and residents because of the rich mineral deposits of the Jones Valley. Birmingham residents nicknamed their city the “Magic City” because of its unbelievable growth. Within a decade, Birmingham had become an industrial powerhouse in the South as a major center of mining, iron and steel.220

  After World War II, Birmingham’s economy started to change. Now, it serves as the home to the University of Alabama–Birmingham, international corporations, elite hospitals and global banking institutions. As the largest city in the state, Birmingham serves as the home of many of Alabama’s oldest barbecue restaurants.221

  Founded in 1981 by Gus and Maria Kanellis, Costa’s barbecue has spread throughout Alabama. As of 2016, Costa’s had three locations and sold its sauce on grocery store shelves. Like many of Alabama’s barbecue restaurants, the Kanellis family has Greek origins and located their restaurant on a major road in town. Author’s collection.

  In 1953, Johnny Ray and his family started a barbecue franchise. John Simonetti operated the original location on Valley Avenue in Birmingham. Although this location has closed, Johnny Ray’s has four locations in the Birmingham area, including this one off Highway 280 in Birmingham. Simonetti opened his restaurant during the golden age of Alabama barbecue. Author’s collection.

  Carlile’s Barbecue

  In 1945, Warren and Pearl Carlisle opened a restaurant at the corner of Sixth Avenue South and Thirty-Fifth Street in the Avondale neighborhood of Birmingham. When Warren’s two brothers, Robert and Herman, joined the business, they built their own restaurant at a new location down the road. They picked a spot just north of Highland Park Golf Course. Together, the Carlisle family operated Carlile’s Barbecue.222

  During World War II, Herman and Warren both served in the military, which led to the strange spelling of the restaurant’s name. In official paperwork, a military agent spelled Herman’s last name incorrectly as Carlile. The brothers decided to use the incorrect spelling as the restaurant’s name.223

  In the late 1960s, the Carlisles expanded the menu by adding recipes collected from family vacations across the state. For barbecue, the Carlisles served sandwiches and plates of pork, beef and chicken. They smoke their pork for twelve to fourteen hours. To complement the barbecue, they have three house-made sauces. They have an original, vinegar-based sauce but also a sweeter, thicker version, which has more garlic in it. They also have white sauce, the mayonnaise-based sauce created by Big Bob Gibson.224

  In addition to these items, Carlile’s Barbecue offers BLT sandwiches, roast beef, chicken fingers, wings, salads and numerous side items, including fresh-cut French fries, onion rings, baked beans and much more. They also sell desserts, such as cookies, ice cream, peach cobbler and slices of pie. Of these desserts, they consider their fried apple pie, a relatively new addition to the menu, their specialty.225

  In the 1970s, the Carlisle brothers expanded their presence by opening up a new location in Scottsboro. They situated the restaurant on U.S. Highway 72, which connects the cities of Huntsville and Chattanooga. The new restaurant, called Carlile’s Restaurant, has a similar menu as the original Birmingham location.226

  In 2007, the Collat family bought Carlile’s Barbecue in Birmingham and have worked to modernize the restaurant while staying true to the Carlisle way. The Collat family owns and operates Mayer Electric Supply Company, one of the largest businesses in the Birmingham area. They want to use the same principles developed at Mayer to run their new restaurant: keep it simple. According to family patriarch Charles Collat Sr., “If Carlile’s offers quality food, quality service, consistently, people are going to come in regardless. If you don’t offer quality products with quality service, consistently, they won’t.”227

  The Collat family recognized Carlile’s Barbecue’s past, but they want to update it for the future. During the decade of Collat ownership, they have added many of the newer items to the menu, including the brisket and fried pies. In the future, they want to operate a food truck. Like most of Alabama’s famous barbecue restaurants, the Collats also want to bottle the restaurant’s sauce. “Carlile’s has been here since 1945. It’s an establishment,” commented Nancy Collat Goedecke, who works as the CEO of Mayer Electric. Speaking on behalf of her family, she added, “It is one of the best kept secrets in Birmingham, and we want to keep it relevant.”228

  Leo & Susie’s Famous Green Top Bar-B-Que

  In 1951, Alton and Kenneth Cook opened Green Top Café in Dora, Alabama, just outside Birmingham. At first, they only sold barbecue and burgers to locals and hungry travelers.

  The Cooks chose the location to take advantage of the construction of U.S. Highway 78, which connected Birmingham to Memphis. According to Richard Headrick, who eventually owned and operated the restaurant, “There were a lot of establishments already on the old highway because from the Jefferson County and Walker County line to Mississippi and to Tennessee it was dry, and you couldn’t get alcoholic beverages.” When the new highway opened, Headrick explained, “Green Top Café was the first business on the new highway.”229 threw parties throughout the year for locals, including a yearly Christmas party for employees and friends.233

  At Green Top Bar-B-Que, customers can get barbecue sandwiches, among other items, before hitting the road west to Memphis. Author’s collection.

  In 1951, Kenneth and Alton Cook built Green Top Café in Dora on the newly constructed Highway 78. They strategically located the building in Jefferson County so thirsty travelers could get their fix. After Jefferson County, travelers would only find dry counties until Memphis and Mississippi. Tony Headrick.

  In 1973, Richard’s parents, Leo and Susie Headrick, purchased the restaurant from Edith Carey. From 1959 to 1973, Carey had owned the restaurant but did not make many changes to the menu or the service. For these fourteen years, Green Top Café continued to serve burgers and barbecue. After the Headricks bought the restaurant, it has remained in the family.

  When Susie found out that her husband, Leo, had purchased the restaurant for $25,000, she recalled, “I thought he was an idiot.” Although Susie considered herself a good cook, she never wanted to cook in a restaurant. Leo insisted. During World War II, Leo served in the military but never went abroad. Then, he found work in the coal mines, just like his ancestors. “He was tired of working in the coal mines,” explained Susie, who also remembered that Leo intended to buy the restaurant whether she approved or not. “He just thought he’d like a restaurant better than he did working in the mines.” So Susie quit her job at the pharmacy and went to work in the restaurant with her husband.230

  During the 1970s, Green Top Café had a reputation for selling beer and serving a rough crowd, but the Headricks worked to ch
ange that reputation. “It was kind of rough, and some people called it a beer joint,” recalled Susie. She added, “I never did want them to call it a beer joint.” To straighten out rough crowds, Susie kept a big old stick behind the bar.231

  The customers liked to sing and dance, and Leo liked to join them. “He always sang a lot, especially when he had him several drinks,” remembered Susie. Richard recalls, “He was the entertainer of the family.”232 The Green Top Café became a favorite hangout for local college kids. The Headricks

  In 1973, Edith Carey sold the restaurant to Leo and Susie Headrick, who were beloved by customers, especially for their impromptu singing and dancing. Tony Headrick.

  When Leo and Susie Headrick owned Green Top Bar-B-Que, they often held parties. For decades, Green Top Bar-B-Que has been a gathering place for Walker and Jefferson County residents, as well as people from around the world. Tony Headrick.

  In 1985, Jackson County changed its laws and allowed the sale of alcohol, so Green Top Café in nearby Walker County calmed down, and the Headricks could finally put more focus on the food. “We still sell alcoholic beverages, but we sell more iced tea than we do that now,” explained Susie.234 According to her son Richard, many people thought Green Top Café would fail after the passage of the new liquor laws in the neighboring county, but the Headricks had no doubt they would succeed. “We knew we had a good product in our barbecue,” boasted Richard. He added, “We’re more known as a family restaurant. And pretty well that’s the way I like it.”235

  The Headricks have expanded the menu as part of their effort to focus on food. “We’ve added smoked wings, smoked chicken and a few other things,” explained Richard’s son, Tony. Currently, they have a large menu featuring chicken fingers, salads, baked potatoes and various standard side items. For about a decade, they have also served their smoked chickens with white sauce. They make their salad dressing from scratch.236

  The Headrick family worked together in the restaurant, which has employed four generations. After the Headricks purchased the restaurant, Leo kept his job at the coal mine for a few years. As a young man, Richard also worked in the coal mines. During the day, Susie and Richard worked the restaurant. After completing the day shift, Richard went to the coal mine. At night, Leo worked in the restaurant after working in the coal mine all day.237 In 1997, Leo passed away, so Richard stepped up his role in the restaurant. In 2014, Richard passed away. Until Susie died in 2015, she managed the restaurant’s money.238

  Currently, Tony Headrick runs the restaurant with his wife, LeeAnn, and his son, Ricky. “I started here at the age of ten or twelve,” explained Tony. “By then, we had gotten rid of the rough element.” At first, Tony bused tables and washed dishes. By the time Tony started high school, he had started working in the barbecue pit. “Now, I run the day-to-day operations for two locations,” he explained, referring to the original restaurant in Dora and the newer location in Jasper, which opened in June 2014. He has continued to expand the menu by adding some side items, including macaroni and cheese.239

  Despite the changes, Tony remains true to the open-pit cooking method. They still use indirect heat. “We cook straight off of hickory. We don’t cook barbecue in an oven,” explained Tony. They cook both whole shoulders and Boston butts, which they chop or slice to order.

  Currently, Tony Headrick runs Green Top Bar-B-Que. They have two locations. In addition to the original Dora location, they now operate a restaurant in Jasper. Author’s collection.

  Tony has continued to emphasize the restaurant’s food. They make their sauce from scratch. Like most Birmingham-area restaurants, Green Top Café has a tomato-based sauce. “It has a little bit of tang to it. It’s not so sweet,” explained Tony. Like many Birmingham barbecue joints, the pork sandwiches come topped with pickles.

  When the Cooks started the restaurant, they benefited from the opening of Highway 78, but now I-22 runs between Birmingham and Memphis. According to Headrick, “The new corridor took away a lot of the truck traffic.” With this in mind, they chose Jasper as the site for their second restaurant. Despite the new interstate, the business has continued to thrive. “We still have a lot of local business,” he added. After fifty years in business, Green Top Café has become a destination for many people, not just a pit stop. He explained, “I have a lot of people come in here when they come back to the area for holidays. They need to get their Green Top before heading out.”240

  Top Hat Barbecue

  Since 1952, travelers on U.S. Highway 31 connecting Birmingham to Cullman and Decatur have stopped at Top Hat Barbecue in Hayden because of the smell of the smoke from the pit. According to current owner Dale Pettit, the valley’s winds carry the smoke in all directions. He boasted, “Hundreds of people over the years have stopped because they smelled the smoke when they went by.”241

  In 1967, Wilbur and Ruth Pettit purchased Top Hat Inn from Arilla Simmons. She knew Wilbur because he worked for the Tip Top Bread Company and sold bread to her. When she wanted to retire, she had many offers for the restaurant, but she called Wilbur and offered it to him because she trusted him. Dale explained, “She had known him for several years and trust is a word that you could use very easily with my father.”242

  When the Pettits took over the restaurant, they wanted to build on the success earned by Simmons. According to Dale, “Mrs. Simmons had a great reputation of serving good food.” The Pettits kept most of her original staff, who helped them transition to restaurant ownership.

  At 9:30 a.m. in Blount Springs, the smoke pours out of the chimney at Top Hat Barbecue. The smell of hickory and pork fills the entire valley and serves as the restaurant’s only advertising. Author’s collection.

  At lunch, customers enjoy their meals at Top Hat Barbecue in Blount Springs. Author’s collection.

  The Pettits quickly learned how to barbecue. According to Dale, “Neither of them [his parents] knew anything about barbecuing or working with food or anything and had to sort of learn as they went along.” They benefited from the expertise of Betty Cooley and Catherine Hoooper, who stayed with the restaurant when it changed hands from Simmons to the Pettit family. They taught Wilbur and Ruth how to cook and much more.243

  Although the Pettits had the help of former employees, they did not have their son available to help. They purchased the restaurant one month after Dale joined the navy at the height of the Cold War.244 In the navy, Dale served on destroyers. At one point, he sailed into the Black Sea. “It was pretty scary times. It would be like the Russians getting into Lake Michigan in the middle of the Cold War,” he explained.245

  By 1974, Dale had finished his career in the navy and joined the restaurant with his father. “I had always hoped that he and I could have a business together,” he said. They figured out new ways of cooking and developed new recipes, mostly due to Dale’s ingenuity. “I have changed most everything,” he explained.246

  When Dale made changes, Wilbur would question him about it, so Dale would have to prove that the new way worked better. “I had to prove it first. Then, he’d take credit for the changes,” he joked. Among the changes, he started cooking the whole shoulders from start to finish with the fat on the bottom near the fire. “It protects the lean side. If it burns, it burns the fat, not the lean meat,” he explained.247

  After one year of working together, Wilbur retired and traveled with Ruth, so Dale took control. For more than forty years, Dale has operated Top Hat Barbecue. He puts a lot of care into every detail and every product. He developed that philosophy as a young man. His family worked as sharecroppers around Blount Springs and Cullman. They grew everything they ate, so Dale continues to emphasize local, quality products.

  Dale’s attention to detail starts with the wood. He has specific requirements for the wood to burn exactly how he wants it. “I know the wood men who deliver to Dale. If it does not come the way he wants it, they will have to take it back,” explained Dale’s friend Van Sykes, who owns Bob Sykes Bar-B-Q in Bessemer.248 At Top
Hat Barbecue, Dale uses new hickory, which gives the meat its flavor.249

  He purchases local, fresh meat. “I try to deal with local people. I could buy foreign fish for half what I pay now,” he explained. “People play the pork and fish market like the stock market,” he added. With this method, restaurateurs buy meat at low prices and freeze it to use when prices rise. He does not like this method. “My pork was running around a few days ago,” he boasted.250

  Dale Pettit, who arrives at the restaurant at 4:00 a.m. to start cooking barbecue, does not need any instruments to take temperature. He only needs a fork, his sense of touch and his eyes to know when his barbecue has finished cooking to maximum tenderness and taste. Author’s collection.

  After hours of work, Dale Pettit finally removes a pork shoulder from the pit. Author’s collection.

  He carefully tends the meat. He continues to do a majority of the cooking in the pits with the help of an associate. “If I make a mistake, we lose money,” he said. The cooking takes between nine and ten hours for the whole shoulders. At Top Hat Barbecue, Dale blends the two parts of the shoulder: the picnic and the Boston butt. This blend gives Top Hat Barbecue a unique flavor because the butt consists of tender meat and the picnic adds juicy, sweet flavor.251

  Dale takes special pride in his sauce. When Wilbur bought the business, he had to buy the sauce recipe separately. “The original recipe, strangely enough, comes from the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York. I still have it,” explained Dale.252 For a few years, Wilbur and Dale kept tinkering with the sauce, but Dale has not made any changes in more than four decades.253 Like other Birmingham-area restaurants, Top Hat Barbecue has a tomato-based sauce. Unlike other restaurants, Top Hat Barbecue heats up the sauce before serving to bring out the spices. His daughter Heather Phillips makes the sauce from scratch a few times a week. “There’s not a written copy of the recipe anywhere,” said Heather. “We keep it very secret because we’re proud of it.”254