Athens Directions
Page 6
Apriati
Mitropóleos 9, cnr Pendelis.
Athenians love their jewellery, and this designer store – sandwiched between old-fashioned jewellers – is typical of the innovative upmarket style of the city.
Fokas
Ermoú 11.
Department store at the heart of the fashion shopping area.
Gold Rose
Pandhróssou 85.
Interesting little shop with a wide range of jewellery and decorative items, from icons to body piercings and even samurai swords.
Kendro Ellinikis Paradosis
Mitropóleos 59 or Pandhróssou 36.
This pleasant upstairs emporium opens to Mitropóleos on one side and Pandhróssou on the other. There’s a wide selection of traditional arts and crafts, especially ceramics and woodcarving, and mercifully little of the hard sell often encountered in the nearby flea market. There’s also a quiet café.
Museum of Greek Popular Musical Instruments
Dhioyénous 1–3.
Excellent selection of CDs of traditional Greek music, albeit not cheap, plus some simple instruments to make your own.
National Welfare Organization
Ipatías 6, cnr Apóllonos.
Rugs, embroideries, copperware – traditional craft products made in remote country districts.
Nikos Mavropoulos
Platía Mitropóleos 10.
From the outside a glittering Aladdin’s cave, this is one of a number of wonderfully old-fashioned stores behind the cathedral selling religious paraphernalia – icons, bible covers, robes, chandeliers and much more.
Stavros Melissinos
Pandhróssou 89.
The “poet-sandalmaker” of Athens, Melissinos was something of a celebrity in the 1960s, hammering out sandals for the Beatles, Jackie Onassis and the like; it is said that John Lennon sought him out specifically for his poetic musings on wine and the sea, which Melissinos continues to sell alongside the footwear. The sandals translate better than the poems.
Annita Patrikiadhou
Pandhróssou 58.
Genuine antiquities – pottery and coins mainly, some of them made into jewellery – are sold here, with official export licences to guarantee authenticity and legality. Prices are steep – but then many of the items are over 2000 years old.
Studio Kostas Sokaras
Adhrianoú 25.
Overlooking the Stoa of Attalos, this place is packed with a wonderful jumble of antiques and curiosities, including old shadow puppets, brass doorknobs, musical instruments, pistols and more.
Yiannis Samouelian
Iféstou 36.
Long-established musical instrument shop in the heart of the flea market, selling hand-made guitars, lyra and the like.
Cafés
Antica Cioccalateria
Platía Ayíon Anaryíron.
It seems there’s a café on every corner in Psyrrí, but if you fancy a change from frappé this place serves thirty types of chocolate drink as well as a similar variety of teas.
Bread Deli
Adhrianoú 52.
Inside a glossy new shopping centre in the flea market district, this café/bakery offers a quiet retreat from the furore outside. Great cakes and other bakery treats, too.
Café Kornarou
Kornárou 4.
A good place to break your shopping trip for coffee and a sandwich, just off the bustle of the main Ermoú shopping strip. Similar cafés can be found in many of the side streets north of Ermoú.
Floral Art Café
Platía Ayíon Anaryíron.
Next door to the Antica Cioccalateria, the Floral has a summer roof terrace where you can escape the crowds.
Iy Oréa Ellás
Mitropóleos 59 or Pandhróssou 36.
Tucked inside the Kendro Ellinikis Paradosis store, this atmospheric café has a small but inspired selection of traditional mezédhes at good prices. There’s also a great view of the rooftops of Pláka on the slope towards the Acropolis.
Ydria
Adhrianoú 68 cnr Eólou.
Platía Paliás Agorás, just round the corner from the Roman Forum, is packed with the tables of competing cafés. This is one of the best for a quiet coffee or breakfast; they also serve more substantial meals.
Restaurants
Baïraktaris
Mitropóleos 88, cnr Platía Monastirakíou.
Over a century old, this lively restaurant occupies two buildings, the walls lined with wine barrels and photos of celebrities. Some tables are on the bustling pedestrian street, but for a cosier atmosphere eat inside with the local regulars, where there’s often impromptu live Greek music. The straightforward, inexpensive menu includes souvláki, gyros and oven dishes such as tsoutsoukakia (meatballs in tomato sauce).
Brachera
Platía Avyssinías 3 tel 210 32 17 202. Eves (from 9pm) & Sun lunch only. Closed Mon.
Upmarket, modern Greek and Mediterranean café/bar/restaurant in a restored mansion overlooking the flea market. In summer, the roof garden offers views of the Acropolis.
Café Abysinia
Kynnétou 7, Platía Avyssinías tel 210 32 17 047. Tues–Sun 10am–1am, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm.
With dining on two floors, this restaurant is one of the best in Athens, popular with a local alternative crowd. The food, moderately priced, is also alternative – a modern take on traditional mezédhes. Live music most weekday evenings and weekend lunchtimes.
Furin Kazan
Apóllonos 2 tel 210 32 29 170. Closed Sun.
Strikingly decorated and popular diner-style sushi bar in a central location.
Gotzila
Ríga Palamídhou 5 tel 210 32 21 086. Eves only.
Sushi bar in this über trendy little street off Platía Ayíon Anaryíron. Mostly a late-night joint, and not badly priced.
Iy Ipeiros
Ayíou Filípou, just off Adhrianoú tel 210 32 45 572. Daytime only.
Very basic, cheap taverna at the edge of Monastiráki flea market – popular with locals for lunch and handy for the Agora.
Mandhra
Ayíon Anaryíron 8, cnr Táki tel 210 32 13 765.
Popular place right by the main square in Psyrrí, with live music most evenings and standard taverna fare at prices that reflect the location.
Iy Palea Skala
Lepeniótou 25, cnr Leokoríou tel 210 32 12 677.
With seating inside an old house and on a terrace in summer, this place is generally packed and lots of fun. Excellent mezédhes and wine at reasonable prices to accompany the acoustic house band.
Iy Stoa tou Vangeli
Evripídhou 63 tel 210 32 51 513. Open Mon–Sat 6am–9pm (market hours); closed Aug.
Congenial taverna with an authentic Greek atmosphere, frequented by local workers and liveliest during late lunchtime. The decor includes songbirds in a huge cage and a large butcher block in the corner where your meats are cut to order. It serves simple, inexpensive taverna appetizers, soups, grills and abundant Greek salads.
Taverna Platía Iróon
Platía Iróon 1 tel 210 32 11 915.
With tables set out on the less crowded square in Psyrrí, this is a great place for people-watching; inside, there’s often live music in the evening. The food includes excellent fava (hummus-like bean purée) and taverna standards, good value for the location.
Taverna tou Psyrri
Eskhýlou 12 tel 210 32 14 923.
One of the most original and cheapest establishments in Psyrrí, offering tasty traditional fare, usually including fresh fish and some less well-known recipes. Menu in deliberately obscure Greek only, so it may be easier to choose from the kitchen.
O Thanasis
Mitropóleos 69.
Reckoned to be the best souvláki and gyros place in this part of Athens, where there’s plenty of competition. Inexpensive, and always packed with locals at lunchtime: there’s no booking, so you’ll have to fight for a table. Watch for the side dish of peppers, which ar
e unusually fiery.
Yoga Bala
Ríga Palamídhou 5 tel 210 33 11 335.Eves only.
A super-stylish, expensive Indian restaurant done out in gold and pink, catering to an upmarket Psyrrí crowd.
Zidhoron
Táki 10, cnr Ayíon Anaryíron tel 210 32 15 368. Closed Aug.
A typical Psyrrí upscale mezhedopolío, painted bright yellow and in a great location right by the square. It serves tasty middle eastern foods like pastourmás, haloúmi and hummus, as well as Greek favourites such as baked feta, grilled peppers and baked aubergine.
Zýthos
Karaïskáki 28 tel 210 33 14 601.
This “beer restaurant” lays more emphasis on the beer than the food – claiming to serve 120 beers plus eight from the barrel. The accompanying dishes have an appropriately Germanic influence.
Bars
Astron
Táki 3 tel 697 74 69 356. Eves only.
One of Psyrrí’s busiest bars – partly perhaps because it’s so small – which gets really packed when the guest DJs crank it up later on.
Bee
Miaoúli 6 cnr Thémidos tel 210 32 12 624. Closed Sun.
Thanks to a location right by an exit from Monastiráki metro station on the way up to Psyrrí, this cool, modern, moodily lit bar is a popular meeting place. Food is served during the day.
Soul Garden
Evripídhou 65 tel 210 33 10 907.
Popular bar/restaurant with the emphasis on bar, serving Thai-influenced food, with a garden in summer, fine cocktails and a top-floor club (Fri & Sat).
Clubs
Blaze-T
Aristophánous 30 tel 210 32 34 823.
Freestyle disco with sounds ranging from hip-hop to techno.
Vibe
Aristophánous 1 tel 210 32 47 94.
Minimalist, Japanese-style decor and frequent “happenings” at this bar/club, featuring guest DJs playing everything from trance to house.
Live music
Pinakothíki
Ayías Théklas 5 tel 210 32 47 741.Closed Sun.
Small, cosy folk music venue with appearances from respected Greek and foreign artists.
Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona
West of the Acropolis rise three substantial hills: Filopáppou, Pnyx and the Hill of the Nymphs. Easily accessed from Dhionysíou Areopayítou or Apóstolou Pávlou, the pedestrianized streets that run around the Acropolis site, they offer famous views of the city, looking down over the Acropolis itself. There are also plenty of paths for not too strenuous walking.
On the far side of Filopáppou lies the quiet, residential neighbourhood of Áno Petrálona, among the least spoilt in Athens, and with some of the city’s best tavernas. Thissío, to the north of here, is an increasingly fashionable address where new bars and cafés are edging out the more traditional places.
The Kerameikos site, north again, is remarkably little visited considering the riches inside – above all, the remains of the main cemetery of ancient Athens.
Gázi, to the west and north of Kerameikos, is a former industrial area where the reinvention of the old gasworks as the Tekhnópolis cultural centre has sparked a rush of alternative bars and restaurants.
Between them, these places offer some excellent and authentic eating and drinking options – a welcome antidote to Plaka’s tourist traps. You’ll find everything from the lively, youth-oriented bars and restaurants of Gázi to positively sleepy, old-fashioned tavernas in Áno Petrálona. Thissío, easily accessed by metro, has a good mix, with some of the best night-time views of the Acropolis from cafés around the traffic-free junction of Apóstolou Pávlou and Iraklidhón. It also provides some lively nightlife, drawing a younger crowd. In Gázi, the trendy spots are more scattered, and the streets, some partly derelict, can feel threatening at night, so you may want to take a taxi. Gázi is a late-night place: there’s not much point trying to eat before 9, or drink before 11 – preferably later. It really comes into its own late on Friday night and over the weekend – by day, and early in the week, it can be deserted. Áno Petrálona, too, is a short taxi ride from the centre, and most places are also easily accessible from Petrálona metro.
Filopáppou Hill
A network of paths leads from traffic-free Dhionysíou Areopayítou, below the Acropolis entrance, up Filopáppou Hill, also known in antiquity as the “Hill of the Muses” (Lófos Mousón). It provides fabulous views of the Acropolis and the city beyond, especially at sunset (although night-time muggings have occurred here, so take care).
This strategic height has played an important, if generally sorry, role in the city’s history. In 1687 it was from here that the shell that destroyed the roof of the Parthenon was lobbed; more recently, the colonels placed tanks on the slopes during their coup of 1967. The hill’s summit is capped by a grandiose monument to a Roman senator and consul, Filopappus, who is depicted driving his chariot on its frieze. To the west is the Dora Stratou Theatre. On the way up the hill, the main path follows a line of truncated ancient walls, past the attractive sixteenth-centurychurch of Áyios Dhimítrios, inside which are some original Byzantine frescoes. Further down, in the rock-face near the base of the hill, you can make out a kind of cave dwelling, known (more from imagination than evidence) as the prison of Socrates.
The Pnyx
The Hill of the Pnyx was used in Classical Athens as the meeting place for the democratic assembly, which gathered more than forty times a year. All except the most serious political issues were aired here, the hill on the north side providing a convenient semicircular terrace from which to address the crowd. All male citizens could vote and, at least in theory, all could voice their opinions, though the assembly was harsh on inarticulate or foolish speakers. There are some impressive remains of the original walls, which formed the theatre-like court, and of stoas where the assembly would have taken refreshment. This atmospheric setting provides commanding Acropolis views, while benches on the west side allow you to contemplate the vista across Pireás and out to sea.
Hill of the Nymphs
Observatory www.noa.gr. Open first Fri of every month.
The Hill of the Nymphs (Lófos Nymfón) is so called because nymphs were associated with the dusty whirlwinds to which this hill is particularly prone. Slightly lower and quieter than its better-known neighbours, it’s a peaceful place with good views across to the western suburbs of Athens and beyond, as well as pleasant shaded walks. The summit is dominated by the impressive Neoclassical bulk of the National Observatory of Athens. First opened in 1842, though with many later additions, it has been in operation as a research institute ever since.
Kerameikos
Entrance on Ermoú. Entry included in joint Acropolis ticket.
Providing a fascinating and quiet retreat from the Acropolis, the Kerameikos site encompasses, among other things, a section of the old city wall, two important gates to the city, the Pompeion, from which ceremonial processions started, and, above all, part of the principal cemetery of ancient Athens, which lay just beyond the walls. Always peaceful, there’s something of an oasis feel about the place, with the lush Iridhanós channel, speckled with water lilies, flowing across it from east to west.
To the right of the entrance can be seen the double line of the city wall. The inner wall was hastily cobbled together by the men, women and children of Athens in 479 BC while Themistocles was pretending to negotiate a mutual disarmament treaty with Sparta. Two roads pierced the wall here: the great Dipylon Gate was the busiest in the ancient city, where the road from Pireás, Eleusis and the north entered; the Sacred Gate was a ceremonial entrance where the Ierá Odhós or Sacred Way entered the city – it was used for the Eleusinian and Panathenaic processions.
Between the two gates are the foundations of the Pompeion, a spacious building with a peristyle courtyard, used for the preparation of festival processions and where the sacral items used at the Panathenaic procession were stored. Branching off to the left from the Sacred Way, the Street
of the Tombs, which is actually the old road to Pireás, heads through the cemetery. The burial mounds that have been excavated along either side were reserved for the plots of wealthy Athenians. Some twenty can be seen, each containing numerous commemorative monuments, and their original stones or replicas reinstated. The flat, vertical stelae were the main funerary monuments of the Classical world; the sarcophagi that you see are later, from the Hellenistic or Roman periods. The sculpted crescent with the massive base to the left of the path is the Memorial of Dexileos, a 20-year-old warrior who died in battle in 394 BC; there’s a relief scene of Dexileos on his horse. The adjacent plot contains the Monument of Dionysios of Kollytos, in the shape of a pillar stele supporting a bull. There are also many more humbler monuments, such as the poignant statue of a girl with a dog on the north side of the street.
Tekhnópolis
Pireós 100 tel 210 34 67 322, www.athens-technopolis.gr.
The former gasworks from which the Gázi district takes its name has been converted into a stunning series of spaces for concerts and changing exhibitions, mostly of contemporary art and photography. Two round gas-holders have become circular glass offices – one for Athens 98.4FM, the other for Tekhnópolis administration – while in the various pumping stations and boiler rooms surrounding them, galleries and exhibition halls of varying sizes, as well as a café, have been created, many with parts of the original machinery preserved. The only permanent display here is a small Maria Callas Museum (Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; free), whose collection of personal letters and photos, plus a pair of gloves and a fur coat, is really for fans only.
Athinaïs
Kastoriás 34–36 tel 210 34 80 000, www.athinais.com.gr.
A magnificent restoration of an early twentieth-century silk factory, the Athinaïs complex contains a theatre, music space, movie screen, two restaurants, a bar and café, exhibition halls, a museum and, the real purpose of the place, a sizeable conference centre. The Pierídhes Museum of Ancient Cypriot Art (daily 9.30am–1pm; €3) is beautifully presented in four small galleries, with some top-class exhibits including ceramics and very early glassware – although it might seem strange to be admiring these Cypriot objects in Athens. The museum shop is full of lavish (and lavishly priced) arty gifts, while upstairs are art galleries with temporary exhibitions. Details of what’s on can be found on the website or in the local press.