Survive!

by Les Stroud

  Clove Hitch: The clove hitch is nothing more than two loops “stacked” on each other. It’s a great simple knot for securing rope between trees or poles, and for hanging things from a horizontal pole. Be aware, though, that to be effective it requires a load on each end, and it has been known to slip.

  A bowline knot is a simple one to learn, and it’s very strong.

  To tie a clove hitch, work from left to right. Make a loop somewhere along the length of the rope. Then make a second identical loop to the immediate right of the first. Stack the second (right) loop on top of the first. Place both loops over the pole and pull the free ends of the rope to tighten.

  If you’re tying a clove hitch to a standing object such as a tree, begin by wrapping the rope once around the tree. After the working end of the rope passes around the tree, it should cross over the main stem of the rope. Wrap the working end of the rope around the tree again, this time passing it through the loop you’ve just created. Pull both ends of the rope taut to finish the knot.

  Figure Eight (and Double Figure Eight): Though traditionally used in climbing, the figure eight and double figure eight are also great for tying rope to other objects. They bind so well, though, that untying them can be a real chore. Make a long loop by passing the working end of the rope back under the main rope stem. Cross the working end over the main rope stem and pass it up through the loop from the bottom. Repeat this procedure for the double figure eight.

  Clove Hitch

  1. Form two loops as shown.

  2. Stack one on top of the other.

  3. When tied properly around a tree or pole, this knot will self-tighten.

  4. Here I used a clove hitch and a small stone to secure a tarp corner.

  Figure Eight

  To make a figure eight knot, the string goes around the tree and then follows its own path back.

  1. The figure eight: first stage.

  2. The double figure eight: second stage.

  Making Knives

  KNIVES COME IN TO PLAY in almost every aspect of survival. If you’re without a knife, there are ways of making basic knives that will do the job. All you need is a semi-sharp edge. That edge can be made from a number of materials, including rock, metal, bone, or even wood.

  Knives from Rock

  One of the oldest skills known to humankind is taking a piece of solid rock and breaking it to form a cutting edge. Over time this became a complicated and refined skill, now referred to as flint knapping. The good news is that you need only learn the basics to fashion a knife edge sharp enough to get you through most situations. No, it won’t be as sharp as a steel knife, but a survival blade will give you a rough, serrated edge for cutting or scraping.

  The most useful blades I have made while surviving have come from throwing a rock—one I hoped would break—against another rock (while carefully protecting my eyes) until I had sheared-off edges sharp enough to cut into wood.

  Refined flint knapping is a useful primitive living skill, but too advanced for the survival situations to which this book is dedicated. Like bow making, flint knapping takes much time and mentored practice to master. With that in mind, the following pictures illustrate the most rudimentary methods for breaking a rock down to a usable edge.

  Knives from Metal

  When making survival knives, there is simply no substitute for metal. The biggest challenge is finding a piece that’s roughly the right size and shape. Rub the metal against a hard surface to sharpen the point and blade (this will take a long time, so sit down and be patient). Unlike most survival knives, a metal blade will require a handle to protect your hands. Tape, cloth, or rope can all be used as knife handles.

  Knives from Bone

  Bone knives work better for puncturing than for cutting or scraping because they don’t hold an edge very well. To make this type of knife, you need to start with a decent-size bone, such as a leg bone from a large mammal.

  Splitting a Rock to Make an Edge

  1. Splitting a rock in two can be a relatively easy undertaking, provided you find the right rock. Use a larger rock to hammer the smaller one.

  2. Here, I’ve made a perfect split.

  3. Given the right material, a split rock can be used effectively as a cutting or scraping edge, and can be further sharpened by rubbing it against another rock.

  4. Your rudimentary rock knife has many uses, so keep it safe. Here, I’m making tinder by cutting into a dry branch.

  You can use a variety of materials to make cutting edges and knives, as well as handles for any metal blades you are lucky enough to salvage.

  Shards of bone are useful as knives in a pinch, though they need refinement after shattering.

  Lay the bone on a hard object and shatter it by striking it with a heavy object. Chances are you’ll find a suitably pointy piece among the shattered bits. You can refine its shape by rubbing the bone piece on a rough rock. If you have only small bones or shards to work with, before rubbing, tie one to a piece of wood or other similar object.

  You can also make a bone blade by scoring the bone along its length until you can insert a chisel of sorts and split the bone lengthwise.

  Scoring a bone.

  Bone blades of various shapes and sizes made by scoring.

  Knives from Wood

  As with bone, it is difficult to get a sharp edge from wood, so wood knives are best suited for puncturing and scraping. This is certainly a last-ditch knife-making method, as it requires time, patience, and diligence. To make a wood knife, start with a piece of hardwood about 12 inches (30 cm) long and 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter; the blade should be 6 inches (15 cm) long. Shave the wood down to a point by rubbing it against a rough, hard surface, such as a rock.

  You can further harden the blade by drying it over a fire until it’s slightly charred. The drier the wood, the harder the point will become.

  * * *

  STROUD’S TIP

  To sharpen a real knife, use a clockwise circular motion and push the blade away from you across the stone while applying consistent pressure on the blade. Try to keep it at a constant angle, say, 45 degrees. Do not drag the knife toward you under pressure, as this may create burrs on the blade. Regularly add water to the stone, if you have it. Reducing pressure gradually while you work will produce a finer edge.

  * * *

  My Favorite MacGyverisms

  AS MANY OF YOU KNOW, the hit TV show MacGyver (1985–1992) was based on the exploits of secret agent Angus MacGyver, whose claim to fame was his uncanny ability to use common items (and a Swiss Army knife) to improvise often-complex devices. During the many survival ordeals I’ve experienced, I’ve often tried to emulate MacGyver, with varying levels of success. Here is a short list of MacGyverisms I’ve managed in the field.

  Using Underwear as a Hunting Tool

  Desperate to catch fish, I cut the elastic strap from my underwear, combined it with a common ballpoint pen and a found piece of bamboo to make a Hawaiian sling spear.

  Fishing with Gum

  In the swamps of Georgia, I made a fishing lure out of a credit card that I cut into pieces. Then I used bubble gum to make a very thick bubble, pinched it off at the bottom, and used it as my fishing float. Had I been successful—there are 100-pound (45-kg) catfish in those swamps!—I could have enjoyed a very substantial meal.

  Making Goggles out of a Snowmobile Cushion

  One of the most insidious dangers in the Arctic is snowblindness. While surviving there, I cut a strip off my snowmobile’s seat cushion to make goggles. All I needed was a knife to make the cut. In that survival situation, the goggles saved my eyes.

  Purifying Water with a Plastic Bottle

  In Africa, I suspended a plastic water bottle over a fire, letting the flames just lick the bottom of the bottle but not consume it. I was able to boil water without significantly melting the plastic.

  Making a Flashlight from Car Parts

  Use wire to connect the battery directly to the leads on the headlamps.r />
  Making Rope from Car Parts

  Wire from any vehicle’s engine makes great rope.

  Making Signals from Reflective Objects

  Anything shiny is enough to flash sunlight at a passing airplane to attract rescue.

  Making Knives from Glass

  Broken glass can be used as an effective cutting tool.

  Using Hand Sanitizer as a Fire Starter

  Just about anything with a high percentage of alcohol can be used to make a fire.

  Making a Throwing Stick

  A THROWING STICK is a solid chunk of hardwood, approximately 18 inches (45 cm) long, that you can grip and throw efficiently, much the way you would a boomerang. Your purpose is to aim it well enough to stun or kill a rabbit, squirrel, or bird that’s within range. It can be very effective when thrown at a group of roosting songbirds (see “Food,” Chapter 8).

  Making Clubs and Spears

  ALTHOUGH SPEARS AND CLUBS were used by our prehistoric ancestors for hunting and warring, you’ll likely find that they are most useful for protection and reassurance when you’re in a place where there might be dangerous or predatory animals around. If you are surviving in a jungle, for example, and you know there might be 7-foot (2-m) cobras underfoot, a long piece of wood feels mighty good in your hands. You can make the tip of the spear itself quite sharp, or tie a handmade blade to the end.

  To put a little distance between me and possible predators in Africa, I attached a handmade spear to a hunting knife.

  But the usefulness of spears and clubs doesn’t end there. Like ropes and knives, these are versatile items that can be used for just about anything, from digging holes to knocking fruit from nearby trees to pounding stakes in the ground. So go ahead and make one even if you don’t think you have a use for it at the time. Eventually, you will.

  Like the throwing stick, a club is simply a tree branch. Size matters. Too long and you won’t be able to swing it easily or quickly. Too short and it won’t do any damage to whatever you’re trying to hit. Hardwood is the best material, if you can find it. You can make a club more effective (especially for killing newly caught small game in your snare) by weighting one end. Tying a rock or similar heavy object to the end is the most common way to do this.

  Making Eye Protection

  SUNGLASSES ARE MORE THAN A FASHION STATEMENT. In the wild, exposure to the elements wreaks havoc not only on your body but also on your eyes. Unfortunately, sunglasses are not particularly robust items, and even if you bring a pair along with you, chances are they will get broken or lost during your survival ordeal.

  You must protect your eyes against sunblindness (when you’re on open water), and snowblindness (when you’re surrounded by snow). In essence, both of these conditions are sunburns on your retina, causing discomfort and blindness for up to three days. Worse yet, being blind in an emergency—no matter how long the episode lasts—can mean the difference between life and death.

  The Inuit protected their eyes by making sun goggles from caribou or walrus bone. When I was in the Arctic, I didn’t have the luxury of these materials, so I made my own from a slit cut in a strip of vinyl. You can use almost anything for sun goggles as long as it limits the amount of sun beating against your eyes.

  Making Packs

  WHEN YOU’RE ON THE MOVE, there is nothing worse than trying to carry all your vital survival materials in your hands or arms. It’s not only slow, cumbersome, and frustrating, it’s also dangerous because it impedes your ability to use your hands at a moment’s notice.

  You can use almost anything to make a pack on the fly, including plant fibers and bark, wood, rope, animal skins, or any other type of material you may have on hand.

  To make a pack, lay a piece of square material on the ground, with your relevant items on one edge. Roll the material and the items toward the opposite edge. Once the bundle is cylindrical, securely tie off each end with one long piece of rope, about 6 feet (1.8 m) long. You can now use the long rope to drape the pack over your shoulder. Add extra ties along the length of the bundle to prevent contents from falling out (see page 221).

  Making Snowshoes

  Good for a multitude of uses, spruce boughs also make great snowshoes. Clump them together into the approximate size and shape you need, then tie the bundle together with some rope or cord. Lash the shoes to your feet, and you’re off (see page 339).

  Making Torches

  As you may suspect, in a wilderness emergency there are many times when you will need to see in the dark but don’t have a flashlight. As long as you have a fire, you will have light. Although there are many different ways to make a survival torch, the bark torch is one of the simplest yet most effective. You’ll need a stick for the handle and a fairly thick strip of flexible bark (birch bark works very well) about 2 feet (60 cm) long and 6 inches (15 cm) wide.

  Wrap the bark around the stick, and tie the base of the bark coil to the stick to secure it. Now wrap some cord or rope around the bark coil to prevent it from opening. You can burn the bark itself, but the torch will burn better if you fill the coil with flammable material, such as grass, small sticks, or small pieces of bark. Once you’ve lit the material inside the coil, it should last a good, long time (see page 339).

  Here, I’m wearing snowboots and spruce-bough snowshoes, which make walking on top of snow a lot easier.

  You could simply light some cloth on fire, but a correctly made torch will last much longer, increasing your chances of nighttime survival.

  Group Versus Solo Survival

  BEING IN A GROUP CAN BE A REAL BENEFIT when it comes to creating and sharing tools. You will have not only the benefit of a wider range of expertise and skills, but more people on hand to make the tools you need to survive. Your group will likely need only one good knife, for example, but three people can make it more easily than one!

  Chapter Fifteen

  WHEN DISASTER STRIKES CLOSE TO HOME

  If you think about it, your chances of finding yourself in a true wilderness survival situation are slim, even if you’re an avid outdoors person. In fact, you have a greater chance of getting caught in a natural disaster close to home. From hurricanes and earthquakes to tsunamis, from fires and floods and blackouts to extreme heat and cold spells, there are many ways that things can go dangerously wrong right in your own backyard.

  Mental and Psychological Attitude

  WHEN FACING A NATURAL DISASTER, you should call on the same psychological strength that is so critical in wilderness survival. Do not panic; stop and assess the situation. Recognize that you will go through a range of emotions. Prioritize your needs.

  Where natural disaster survival differs from true wilderness survival is in your ability, in most cases, to stay in touch with the outside world during the ordeal. If possible, stay connected through the media (for example, using a rechargeable hand-crank radio), if only to find out what else might be coming at you and how and when rescue/relief efforts may arrive.

  Planning and Preparation

  YOU NEED TO GET PAST THE “IT CAN’T HAPPEN TO ME” ATTITUDE and understand that disasters can occur anywhere, anytime. The best way to prepare is to keep a few key items handy, just in case, in your home survival kit.

  Like any survival kit, the one for your home must be tailored to your region and the events that are most likely to occur there. I live in Ontario, Canada, where earthquakes are rare. However, there’s a good chance we could be struck by a blizzard and suffer a subsequent blackout, which could mean I’d be out of power, out of water (since I’m on a pump system), and out of heat. And if it was a prolonged blackout, I could eventually run out of food.

  I recommend that you keep in your survival kit a one-week supply of everything you need to live. Refer to the checklist in the back of this book for everything you’ll need to include.

  Signaling

  THE ABILITY TO MAKE AN EFFECTIVE SIGNAL is important in disasters at or close to home. People are often trapped after natural disasters and need to s
ignal for rescue, which is bound to come eventually. But if you’re trapped, you will definitely need to let people know where you are and how you are.

  Water

  IF YOU HAVE THE LUXURY OF KNOWING IN ADVANCE that a disaster will occur, fill your bathtub, as well as any other sink or receptacle you have available, with tap water. This is routine at our house when bad weather is on the way, and has paid off more than once. A water filter (not the cheap one that sits in a pitcher in your refrigerator) is useful if your supply becomes tainted or if you’re getting your water from a nearby river or lake.

  Remember that the water in the back tank of your toilet is perfectly drinkable, as it comes right from the tap and never contacts the bowl itself. Ice cubes that you’ve left in your freezer are another potential (though admittedly limited) source.

  Fire

  IF YOU LIVE IN A COLD CLIMATE, or disaster occurs during winter weather, you may need a fire source to keep yourself warm and to cook. Making a fire will not be an issue, since there should be fire-starting materials on hand; the trick comes in building and maintaining the fire in a safe place. The only safe places to make a fire that will keep the inside of a house warm are a wood stove or a fireplace. Fuel-based space heaters are also good backups. An electric stove can be used for heat, but you need to be extremely careful, particularly if there are small children around. Don’t ever use your gas stove to heat your home.