Dearie

by Bob Spitz

  “He was quite ill”: McJannet interview.

  “I remember Julia putting a stick of butter”: Pépin interview.

  Twenty-seven THE RAFT

  “As long as I am able to continue”: Pat Pratt, interview with author, December 2, 2008.

  “My work gives me purpose”: Stephanie Hersh, interview with author, May 6, 2009.

  “a zoo”: Ibid.

  “I don’t have it in me”: “It’s a task I’ll probably leave to other, better writers.” JC, interview with author, September 19, 1992.

  “Julia loved gossip”: Jasper White, interview with author, August 30, 2011.

  “I’ve done this terrible thing”: “I always came to Julia when I needed advice.” Sara Moulton, interview with author, January 12, 2009.

  “there was plenty of fire left in her”: Jacques Pépin, interview with author, January 6, 2009.

  “She was an elderly woman”: Geoffrey Drummond, interview with author, November 11, 2008.

  “I thought this could be a terrific book”: “It caught my imagination right away.” Judith Jones, interview with author, April 2, 2009, and May 27, 2011.

  “She loved getting into conflict with Jacques”: Geoffrey Drummond, interview with author, November 30, 2011.

  “You’re not going to take that French macho stuff”: “Judith liked to throw oil on the fire.” Geoffrey Drummond, interview with author, November 16, 2011.

  “He’d ball up his fist”: “She really frustrated him, no question.” Judith Jones, interview with author, May 12, 2011.

  “She was worn out physically”: Hersh interview.

  “The prices for some of these”: Child and Pépin, Julia and Jacques: Cooking at Home, p. 42.

  “Fuck ’em! Fuck ’em all!”: David Nussbaum, “In Julia Child’s Kitchen, October 5, 1998,” Gastronomica (Summer 2005), p. 38.

  “The bulldozed nine hundred ancient”: Richard Sanford, interview with author, September 9, 2009.

  “Rules—she didn’t like rules”: Eric Spivey, interview with author, September 9, 2009.

  “I’m going to be shifting”: Hersh interview.

  Julia later said that she decided: “I always intended to end my days in California.” JC, interview with author, September 20, 1992.

  “In her heart, Julia was always”: Phila Cousins, interview with author, May 11, 2009.

  “It was the only time Julia ever put her name”: “They made obscure culinary creative stuff instead of roast chicken and pot au feu.” Clark Wolf, interview with author, April 24, 2009.

  “She was so impressed with the architecture”: “She loved it!” Sanford interview.

  “Tommy flipped a switch”: Drummond interview, November 30, 2011.

  “This is just like Pearl Harbor!”: Ibid.

  “was always magical”: Alex Prud’homme, interview with author, January 21, 2010.

  “There wasn’t a day”: Spivey interview.

  “She was very concerned”: “She loathed getting into the wrong social milieu.” Sanford interview.

  she always spent a few minutes: Rebecca Alssid, interview with author, August 30, 2011.

  “It’s tremendously impressive”: JC interview, September 19, 1992.

  “We were all very copasetic”: Jo Duff, interview with author, January 26, 2010.

  “When no one was looking”: “She absolutely loved bacon.” Sanford interview.

  “She lived off that bacon”: Spivey interview.

  “Julia was in horrible pain”: Thekla Sanford, interview with author, September 9, 2009.

  “It was a thankless task policing”: Hersh interview.

  “We can just leave that open”: Jones interview, April 2, 2009.

  “All right, dearie, maybe we should”: JC, My Life, p. x.

  “an especially meritorious contribution”: Executive Order 9586, United States, signed July 6, 1945.

  it was uncertain that she would accept: “Friends feared that she would turn down such recognition from a Republican.” R. W. Apple, Jr., “Recalling Julia Child,” New York Times, August 18, 2004.

  “Julia loved Clinton”: Rebecca Alssid, interview with author, December 8, 2008.

  “Julia, I wish you were here”: Spivey interview and Hersh interview. Both Spivey and Hersh were present.

  “My God, that Brad Pitt is certainly handsome”: “The last movie I saw with her was Troy.” Cousins interview.

  “I have my sous chefs with me”: White interview.

  “She seemed half-asleep on her feet”: Clark Wolf, interview with author, July 1, 2009.

  “It was clear that her health was failing”: Alex Prud’homme interview.

  “We really don’t have much time left”: “Dr. Cooperman, her regular doctor, called me that summer, while I was in the east.” Cousins interview.

  “Julia was really getting disgusted”: Alssid interview.

  “Our dear friend and mentor”: Elaine Morello, interview with author, November 30, 2011.

  Bibliography

  BOOKS BY JULIA CHILD

  Mastering the Art of French Cooking. With Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1961.

  The French Chef Cookbook. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1968.

  Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume II. With Simone Beck. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1970.

  From Julia Child’s Kitchen. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1975.

  Julia Child and Company. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1978.

  Julia Child and More Company. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1979.

  The Way to Cook. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1989.

  Julia Child’s Menu Cookbook. New York: Wings (Random House), 1991.

  Cooking with Master Chefs. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1993.

  In Julia Child’s Kitchen with Master Chefs. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1995.

  Baking with Julia. Written by Dorie Greenspan. New York: William Morrow, 1996.

  Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home. With Jacques Pépin. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1999.

  Julia’s Kitchen Wisdom. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2000.

  My Life in France. With Alex Prud’homme. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2006.

  TELEVISION SERIES FEATURING JULIA CHILD

  The French Chef, WGBH, Boston, 1963–1973.

  Julia Child and Company, WGBH, Boston, 1978.

  Julia Child and More Company, WGBH, Boston, 1979.

  Dinner at Julia’s, WGBH, Boston, 1983.

  Cooking with Master Chefs, Maryland Public Broadcasting, 1993.

  In Julia’s Kitchen with Master Chefs, Maryland Public Broadcasting, 1994.

  Baking with Julia, Maryland Public Broadcasting, 1996.

  Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home, KQED, San Francisco, 1999.

  VIDEOS FEATURING JULIA CHILD

  Julia and Jacques “Cooking in Concert,” DVD, A La Carte Video, August 1994.

  Julia and Jacques “More Cooking in Concert,” DVD, A La Carte Video, August 1996.

  Julia Child! America’s Favorite Chef, DVD, WGBH Boston Video, 2004.

  The French Chef with Julia Child, 3 DVDs, WGBH Boston Video, 2005.

  The French Chef 2 with Julia Child, 3 DVDs, WGBH Boston Video, 2005.

  Julia Child and Graham Kerr. Cooking in Concert, DVD, A La Carte Video, 1995.

  SELECTED BOOKS

  Algren, Nelson. America Eats. Iowa City: University of Iowa Press, 1992.

  Ali-Bab (Henri Babinski). Gastronomie Pratique. Paris: Flammarion, 1926.

  Barr, Nancy Verde. Backstage with Julia. Hoboken: John Wiley and Sons, 2007.

  Batterberry, Michael and Ariane. On the Town in New York. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1973.

  Beard, James. Cook It Outdoors. New York: M. Barrows, 1941.

  ———. The Fireside Cook Book. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1949.

  ———. Paris Cuisine. With Alexander Watt. Boston: Little, Brown, 1952.

  ———. Jim Beard’s Barbecue Cooking. New York: Maco, 1954.

>   ———. James Beard’s Fish Cookery. Boston: Little, Brown, 1954.

  ———. Jim Beard’s Casserole Cookbook. New York: Maco, 1955.

  ———. The Complete Book of Outdoor Cookery. With Helen Evans Brown. New York: Doubleday, 1955.

  ———. The James Beard Cookbook. With Isabel Callvert. New York: Dell, 1959.

  ———. Delights and Prejudices. New York: Atheneum, 1964.

  ———. James Beard’s American Cookery. Boston: Little, Brown, 1972.

  ———. Beard on Bread. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1973.

  ———. James Beard’s Theory & Practice of Good Cooking. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1977.

  ———. The New James Beard. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1981.

  ———. Beard on Pasta. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1983.

  Beck, Simone. Simca’s Cuisine. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1972.

  ———. Food & Friends. With Suzy Patterson. New York: Viking Press, 1991.

  Bemelmans, Ludwig. La Bonne Table. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1964.

  Bertholle, Louisette, and Simone Beck. What’s Cooking in France. New York: Ives Washburn, 1952.

  Brenner, Leslie. American Appetite. New York: Bard, 1999.

  Brillat-Savarin. The Physiology of Taste (La Physiologie du gout, 1825). Translated by Anne Drayton. New York: Penguin, 1994.

  Camp, Charles. American Foodways: What, When, Why and How We Eat in America. Little Rock, Ark.: August House, 1989.

  Cannon, Poppy. The Can-Opener Cookbook. New York: Crowell, 1952.

  Chamberlain, Samuel. Clémentine in the Kitchen. New York: Hastings House, 1943.

  ———. Bouquet de France: An Epicurean Tour of the French Provinces. New York: Gourmet, 1952.

  Chelminski, Rudolph. The French at Table. New York: William Morrow, 1985.

  Child, Charles Tripler. The How and Why of Electricity. New York, Electrical Review Publishing Co., 1902.

  Child, Charles. Roots in the Rock. Boston: Little, Brown, 1964.

  Child, Paul. Bubbles from the Spring. N.p.: Antique Press, 1974.

  Claiborne, Craig. New York Times Cookbook. New York: Harper & Row, 1961.

  ———. Craig Claiborne’s Favorites from the New York Times: Series III. New York: Times Books, 1977.

  ———. A Feast Made for Laughter. New York: Doubleday, 1982.

  Clark, Robert. James Beard: A Biography. New York: Harper Collins, 1993.

  Collins, Kathleen. Watching What We Eat: The Evolution of Television Cooking Shows. New York, Continuum, 2009.

  Conant, Jennet. A Covert Affair: Julia Child and Paul Child in the OSS. New York: Simon and Schuster, 2011.

  Conaway, James. Napa. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1990.

  Cooke, Phillip S., ed. The Second Symposium on American Cuisine. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1984.

  Cushing, James. Genealogy of the Cushing Family. Worcester, Mass.: Perrault Printing, 1877.

  David, Elizabeth. French Country Cooking. London: Lehman, 1951.

  ———. Italian Food. London: Macdonald, 1954.

  ———. French Provincial Cooking. London: Michael Joseph, 1960.

  Diat, Louis. French Cooking for Americans. Philadelphia: Lippincott, 1946.

  Ephron, Nora. I Feel Bad About My Neck. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2006.

  Escoffier, Auguste. Memories of My Life. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1997.

  Farmer, Fannie. A New Book of Cookery. Boston: Little, Brown, 1912.

  Fisher, M. F. K. The Gastronomical Me. New York: Duell, Sloan and Pearce, 1943.

  ———. Map of Another Town: A Memoir of Province. Boston: Little, Brown, 1964.

  ———. Among Friends. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1970.

  ———. Stay Me, Oh Comfort Me. New York: Pantheon, 1993.

  ———. A Life in Letters: Correspondence 1929–1991. Edited by Norah K. Barr, Marsha Moran, and Patrrick Moran. Washington, D.C.: Counterpoint, 1997.

  Ferrone, John, editor. James Beard: Love and Kisses and a Halo of Truffles. New York: Arcade, 1994.

  Fitch, Noel Riley. Appetite for Life. New York: Doubleday, 1997.

  Fussell, Betty. I Hear America Cooking. New York: Viking Press, 1986.

  ———. Masters of American Cookery: MFK Fisher, James Beard, Craig Claiborne, Julia Child. Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 2005.

  Garrett, Martin. Provence: A Cultural History. New York: Oxford University Press, 2006.

  Greene, Gael. Bite: A New York Restaurant Strategy. New York: W. W. Norton, 1971.

  Grimes, William. Appetite City: A Culinary History of New York. New York: North Point Press, 2010.

  Grimshaw, William R. Grimshaw’s Narrative. Sacramento, 1872.

  Guérard, Michel. La Grande Cuisine Minceur. Paris: Editions Robert Laffont, 1976.

  Guillot, André. La Grande Cuisine Bourgeoise. Paris: Flammarion, 1976.

  Hazan, Marcella. The Classic Italian Cookbook. New York: Harper’s Magazine Press, 1973.

  Hibben, Sheila. American Regional Cookery. Boston: Little, Brown, 1946.

  James, Michael. Slow Food. New York: Warner Books, 1992.

  Jones, Evan. American Food: The Gastronomic Story. New York: E. P. Dutton, 1975.

  ———. Epicurean Delight: The Life and Times of James Beard. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1990.

  Jones, Judith. The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2007.

  Kafka, Barbara. The Opinionated Palate: Passion and Peeves on Eating and Food. New York: William Morrow, 1992.

  Kennedy, Robert Woods. A Classical Education. New York: W. W. Norton, 1973.

  Kuh, Patrick. The Last Days of Haute Cuisine. New York: Penguin Press, 2001.

  Levenstein, Harvey. Paradox of Plenty: A Social History of Eating in Modern America. New York: Oxford University Press, 1993.

  Lucas, Dione. The Cordon Bleu Cook Book. Boston: Little, Brown, 1947.

  MacDonald, Elizabeth P. Undercover Girl. New York: Macmillan, 1947.

  McDougal, Dennis. Privileged Son: Otis Chandler and the Rise and Fall of the L.A. Times Dynasty. New York: DaCapo, 2002.

  McKinzie, Richard D. The New Deal for American Artists. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1973.

  McNamee, Thomas. Alice Waters and Chez Panisse. New York: Penguin Press, 1997.

  McWilliams, John. Recollections of His Youth. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1921.

  McIntosh, Elizabeth P. The Role of Women in Intelligence. McLean, Va.: Association of Former Intelligence Officers, 1989.

  ———. Sisterhood of Spies: The Women of the OSS. New York: Random House, 1998.

  Montagne, Prosper. Larousse Gastronomique. Edited by Charlotte Turgeon and Nina Froud. New York: Crown, 1961.

  Morrow, Mayo. Los Angeles. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1933.

  O’Brien, Kenneth Paul, and Lynn H. Parsons. The Home-Front War. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press, 1995.

  Olney, Richard. The French Menu Cookbook. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1970.

  ———. Simple French Food. New York: Atheneum, 1974.

  ———. Reflexions. New York: Brick Tower Press, 1999.

  Paddleford, Clementine. How America Eats. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1960.

  Pasadena Blue Book: Crown City Clubdom. Pasadena: Mission Press, 1919.

  Pépin, Jacques. A French Chef Cooks at Home. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1975.

  ———. La Technique. New York: Times Books, 1976.

  ———. La Methode. New York: Times Books, 1979.

  ———. The Apprentice: My Life in the Kitchen. New York: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2003.

  Pineda, Manuel, and E. Caswell Perry. Pasadena Area History. Pasadena: Anderson, 1972.

  Reardon, Joan. M. F. K. Fisher, Julia Child and Alice Waters: Celebrating the Pleasures of the Table. New York: Harmony Books, 1994.

  ———. As Always, Julia: The Letters of Julia Child and Avis Devoto. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2010.

  Rohrboug
h, Malcolm J. Days of Gold: The California Gold Rush and the American Nation. N.p.: University of California Press, 1997.

  Rombauer, Irma S. The Joy of Cooking. Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1936.

  Root, Waverly. The Food of France. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1958.

  ———. Eating in America. New York: William Morrow, 1976.

  Saint-Ange, Madame E., La Bonne Cuisine, Paris: Larousse, 1995.

  Shapiro, Laura. Perfection Salad: Women and Cooking at the Turn of the Century. New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1986.

  ———. Something from the Oven: Reinventing Dinner in 1950s America. New York: Viking Press, 2004.

  ———. Julia Child. New York: Viking Press, 2007.

  Scheid, Ann. Pasadena: Crown of the Valley. Northridge, Calif.: Windsor Pub., 1986.

  ———. The Valley Hunt Club: 100 Years. Privately published, Pasadena, 1988.

  Stacey, Michelle. Consumed: Why Americans Love, Hate and Fear Food. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1995.

  Stegner, Wallace. The Uneasy Chair: A Biography of Bernard DeVoto. New York: Doubleday, 1974.

  Trager, James. The Food Chronology. New York: Henry Holt, 1995.

  Tuchman, Barbara W. Stilwell and the American Experience in China. New York: Macmillan, 1970.

  Verdon, René. The White House Chef Cookbook. New York: Doubleday, 1967.

  Vilas, James. American Taste: A Celebration of Gastronomy Coast-to-Coast. New York: Arbor House, 1982.

  Waters, Alice. Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook. New York: Random House, 1982.

  Werner, Emmy E. Pioneer Children on the Journey West. New York: Basic Books, 1996.

  Ziegler, Philip. Montbatten. New York: Harper & Row, 1985.

  ARCHIVES, MANUSCRIPT COLLECTIONS, AND PRIVATE PAPERS

  Beck, Simone, archives. Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe, Cambridge, Mass.

  Child, Julia, archives. Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe, Cambridge, Mass.

  Child, Paul, archives. Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe, Cambridge, Mass.

  DeVoto, Avis, archives. Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe, Cambridge, Mass.

  DeVoto, Avis. Memoir About Julia Child. Dictated October 16, 1988.

  Fisher, M. F. K., archives. Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe, Cambridge, Mass.

  Howe, Fisher. Which Reminds Me: Julia and Paul Child Remembered. May 23, 2008.