Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2
Page 43
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be kept warm in a 200-degree oven for half an hour at least.
To serve, remove cover and dip into pumpkin with a long-handled spoon, scraping flesh off bottom and sides of pumpkin with each serving of the filling.
Pumpkin Soup
Use a 6- to 7-pound pumpkin and the same ingredients, except replace the cream with enough chicken stock to come within ½ inch of rim. Stir half a cup or so of heavy cream and a handful of chopped parsley into soup just before serving.
ZUCCHINI — AND OTHER SUMMER SQUASHES
Courgettes
Zucchini, the familiar almost cucumber-shaped green squash that is on the market all year, is our main concern here, although you may substitute yellow crooknecks or straightnecks, or the striped, green, zucchini-like cocozelle in any of the recipes. Scallop or pattypan squash (patisson) may also be adapted, particularly in the recipes for stuffed zucchini.
HOW TO BUY AND STORE SUMMER SQUASHES
When you are buying summer squash, look for obviously fresh, clean specimens that feel heavy, are firm to the touch all over, and have skin so tender you can pierce it easily with a fingernail. Fully edible summer squashes are immature: when you cut them open the seeds are soft and the tissue surrounding the seeds is moist and crisp. In all of these squashes, except for the giant crookneck, size indicates quality. Beware of foot-long zucchini, crook- and straightnecks over 10 inches, cocozelles more than 8 inches, pattypans that exceed 4 inches in diameter. However, if you do find yourself with slightly overage squashes, you can peel them if the skin seems tough, quarter them lengthwise, and cut out the pulpy core and tough seeds; use only the moist, crisp flesh between skin and core. Store summer squashes in a plastic bag in the refrigerator, where they will keep for a week to 10 days if very fresh.
PRELIMINARIES TO COOKING
Peeling, salting, blanching
Tender-skinned squashes need no peeling; their flavor is delicate anyway, and to remove the peel makes them taste even milder. Both yellow and green tender squashes contain a large amount of vegetable water, and if you do not deal with it in some way before the serious cooking begins, you will have watery casseroles and overcooked sautés. There are two methods for eliminating the water, both equally good because neither removes essential flavor. The easiest method, when you are to sauté chunks of zucchini, for instance, or hollow it out for a stuffing, is to drop the whole squash into boiling salted water and boil about 10 minutes, just until the flesh begins to yield to pressure. This is called blanching. The second method, for cut or grated squash, is to salt it, let it stand for 20 minutes until the water oozes out of the tissues, then squeeze or pat it dry. We shall use both systems here, starting out with a number of unusual recipes for blanched, sautéed zucchini.
You will notice that only twice is any herb but parsley used in the following recipes, in order that the delicate flavor of the zucchini may be pointed up rather than masked. Preliminary sautéing of the zucchini before saucing or simmering does much to bring out its flavor, and shallots, onions, garlic, and cheese seem to be its natural complements.
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
1 zucchini 8 inches long and 1¾ inches at its widest diameter weighs 5 to 6 ounces; 3 zucchinis of this size weigh about 1 pound.
1 pound of plain, raw diced or sliced zucchini makes about 3½ cups.
1 pound of freshly grated zucchini, lightly pressed down, makes about 2 cups; when salted and squeezed it makes 1 cup and renders ⅔ cup of juice.
1 pound of zucchini will provide 2 to 3 servings as a vegetable garnish.
Recipes Using Whole Blanched Zucchini
Courgettes Blanchies
TO BLANCH WHOLE ZUCCHINI—OR OTHER SUMMER SQUASH
The object in blanching zucchini or other summer squashes is to boil them just long enough to minimize the oozing out of their vegetable water, but not long enough to cook them quite through. In other words, they are not tender; they hold their shape.
Shave the stem and the tip off each zucchini (or other summer squash), scrub thoroughly but not harshly with a vegetable brush under cold, running water to remove any clinging sand or dirt. Plunge zucchini into a large kettle or saucepan of boiling, salted water; when water returns again to the boil, boil them slowly, uncovered, for 10 to 12 minutes usually, until the flesh will just yield slightly to pressure. Test each zucchini, and remove one by one as they are done, plunging them into cold water. Drain, and the zucchini are ready for sautéing, stuffing, creaming or whatever the following recipes direct. If you are not continuing the recipe until the next day, cover and refrigerate them.
COURGETTES SAUTÉES, MAÎTRE D’HÔTEL
[Zucchini Sautéed in Butter with Lemon and Parsley]
One of the very easiest and most delicious ways to serve zucchini is to blanch it whole, cut it into large dice, then toss in butter and seasonings, finishing it off with lemon juice and parsley. Cooked this way, zucchini goes with anything, and it is particularly recommended when you want a simply done green vegetable to go with something rather elaborate, such as escalopes de veau à la crème or a chicken fricassee.
For 6 people
1) Sautéing the zucchini
2 to 2½ lbs. blanched zucchini (6 to 7 zucchini 8 by 1¾ inches, for example)
Paper towels
About 4 Tb butter
1 to 2 Tb olive oil or cooking oil
A large (11-inch) no-stick or enameled frying pan
A cover for the pan
Salt and pepper
After the zucchini have been scrubbed, blanched, and drained as in the preceding directions, cut them in quarters or sixths lengthwise, depending on their diameter. Cut the lengths crosswise into 1-inch pieces, and pat dry with paper towels. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter with 1 of oil over high heat. When butter foam has begun to subside, toss in the zucchini. Toss and turn frequently, shaking and swirling the pan by its handle, for 5 minutes or more, until zucchini is beginning to brown very lightly. By this time, it should be just tender; if not, cover pan and cook over low heat for several minutes. (If you are using a smaller pan, sauté in several batches and turn each batch out onto a dish until all is done, then return them all to the pan.) Toss with salt and pepper to taste.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be done in advance to this point. Set aside. Reheat to sizzling before continuing.
2) The maître d’hôtel seasoning
Drops of fresh lemon juice
Remaining butter from Step 1
2 to 3 Tb fresh minced parsley
A hot serving dish or the meat platter
Just before serving, toss with drops of lemon juice; correct seasoning, and add a little more lemon juice if you feel it is necessary. Then toss with another tablespoon or so of butter and the parsley. Turn out onto hot dish and serve immediately.
VARIATIONS
Courgettes Sautées à la Provençale
[Zucchini Sautéed in Olive Oil with Garlic and Parsley]
Garlic and olive oil are especially good with zucchini, and this dish goes well with steaks, chops, broiled chicken, and fish.
2 to 2½ lbs. blanched zucchini quartered lengthwise and cut into 1-inch pieces
3 to 4 Tb olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
2 to 3 cloves garlic, mashed or finely minced
Optional: ¼ cup dry, fairly coarse crumbs from non-sweetened homemade-type white bread
3 to 4 Tb fresh minced parsley
Dry the zucchini pieces with paper toweling and sauté, tossing frequently, in hot olive oil until just tender and very lightly browned. The moment before serving, toss over moderately high heat with the seasonings, garlic, and optional bread crumbs, then with the parsley.
Courgettes Gratinées à la Milanaise
[Zucchini Pieces Sautéed, then Baked with Cheese]
This is a convenient ahead-of-time preparation that goes nicely with broiled chicken or fish and with steaks or chops.
2 to 2½ lbs. zucchini prepared as in either
of the 2 preceding recipes
A heavily buttered 6- to 8-cup baking and serving dish about 2½ inches deep
½ cup grated Parmesan or Swiss and Parmesan cheese
2 Tb melted butter or olive oil
Prepare the zucchini as directed, but leave it slightly undercooked. Sprinkle baking dish with cheese, and fill with layers of zucchini and cheese, dribbling butter or oil over all. If zucchini is still warm, reheat and brown lightly for several minutes under the broiler; otherwise, reheat to sizzling for about 15 minutes in upper third of a 425-degree oven.
Courgettes Étuvées à la Crème
[Zucchini Simmered in Cream and Tarragon]
The French word moelleux can probably best describe the tender, melting, softly fragrant quality of zucchini warmed in butter and shallots and then simmered in cream and tarragon. This lovely dish goes particularly well with roast chicken and veal.
PRELIMINARY NOTE: Cut the zucchini into any shape you wish. Although the 1-inch pieces used in the preceding recipes are easiest to cook, round slices half an inch thick or lengthwise strips ⅜ inch thick and 2½ to 3 inches long are attractive to serve. Choose for the cooking an 11- to 12-inch no-stick or enameled frying pan, straight-sided chicken fryer, electric skillet, or casserole. If you decide to cut the zucchini into strips, you will have to do the preliminary sauté in several batches.
For 6 people
2 to 2½ lbs. zucchini blanched whole as directed
About 4 Tb butter
One of the pans discussed in preceding paragraph
Salt and white pepper
2 Tb minced shallots or scallions
1 tsp fresh minced tarragon or ¼ tsp fragrant dried tarragon; more if needed
About 1 cup crème fraîche or heavy cream, more if needed
Cut the blanched zucchini as discussed in preceding paragraph; dry well on paper towels. Over moderate heat, melt enough butter in pan to film it by 1⁄16 inch. When butter foam begins to subside, sauté the zucchini for 2 to 3 minutes, tossing or turning, until it is well warmed through but is not browning. Season to taste with salt and pepper, sprinkle on the shallots or scallions and tarragon, and pour in the cream. Simmer for about 10 minutes, basting frequently with the cream, until zucchini is tender and cream has reduced enough to enrobe the zucchini pieces.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be done in advance to this point; set aside uncovered. Reheat to simmer before proceeding.
More cream if needed, and the remaining butter
2 Tb fresh minced parsley plus 1 tsp fresh minced tarragon if available
A hot serving dish
Just before serving, taste carefully for seasoning, adding a little more tarragon as well as salt and pepper if needed. If sauce has reduced too much or if it looks slightly curdled, add 2 to 3 tablespoons more cream; bring to simmer, remove from heat, and baste the zucchini to smooth out the sauce. Add also another tablespoon of butter, basting until it has been absorbed. Arrange on hot dish, sprinkle on the herbs, and serve immediately.
A slightly less fattening variation
Rather than simmering the zucchini in pure cream, you may use a thin cream sauce, such as that in which the sliced potatoes and basil simmer (pommes de terre au basilic).
OTHER WAYS OF SERVING BLANCHED SAUTÉED ZUCCHINI
Courgettes Gratinées, Mornay
[Zucchini Gratinéed with Cheese Sauce]
When you want a creamy vegetable dish to go with broiled meats or roast chicken, and one that you can get ready for the oven well ahead of time, prepare sautéed zucchini with lemon and parsley as in the Master Recipe. Then turn to the Broccoli Mornay recipe; fold the zucchini into the cheese sauce, arrange in a baking dish, and finish it off with cheese and butter in the oven as described for the broccoli.
Courgettes en Persillade, Gratinées
[Zucchini Baked with Garlic, Parsley, and Béchamel]
An alternative to the preceding cheese sauce is zucchini sautéed in olive oil with garlic and parsley, as in the first variation, then baked in a béchamel sauce topped with bread crumbs and butter, following aubergines en persillade, grainées. The little hint of garlic here is delicious, and the dish goes nicely with steaks, chops, and roast lamb.
Courgettes en Pistouille
[Zucchini with Tomatoes, Peppers, Garlic, and Basil]
Here sautéed zucchini is simmered in a mixture of cooked onions, peppers, and tomatoes, and given a final pistou flavoring of garlic and basil. This goes hot with broiled fish, chicken, roasts, steaks, and chops, and cold on picnics. Follow the pistouille recipe, substituting blanched, sautéed zucchini pieces for eggplant.
Recipes Using Coarsely Grated and Salted Zucchini
Courgettes Rapées
An interesting and easy way to serve zucchini or other tender summer squashes is to grate them, salt them so the vegetable water runs out, squeeze gently dry, and sauté in butter or olive oil for a few minutes until tender. You can then serve the zucchini as is, simmer it with cream, bake it in a sauce, or turn it into a molded custard. The preliminary sauté gives added flavor, as well as removing extra vegetable water. Anyone eating grated zucchini for the first time is almost certain to think it is a remarkable new vegetable.
TO GRATE AND SALT ZUCCHINI—OR OTHER SUMMER SQUASHES
Shave the stem and the tip off each zucchini (or other summer squash), scrub the vegetable thoroughly but not harshly with a brush under cold running water to remove any clinging sand or dirt. If vegetables are large, halve or quarter them. If seeds are large and at all tough, and surrounding flesh is coarse rather than moist and crisp, which is more often the case with yellow squashes and striped green cocozelles than with zucchini, cut out and discard the cores. Rub the squash against the coarse side of a grater, and place grated flesh in a colander set over a bowl. For each 1 pound (2 cups) of grated squash, toss with 1 teaspoon of salt, mixing thoroughly. Let the squash drain 3 or 4 minutes, or until you are ready to proceed. Just before cooking, squeeze a handful dry and taste. If by any chance the squash is too salty, rinse in a large bowl of cold water, taste again; rinse and drain again if necessary. Then squeeze gently by handfuls, letting juices run back into bowl. Dry on paper towels. Zucchini will not be fluffy; it is still dampish, but the excess liquid is out.
The pale-green, slightly saline juice drained and squeezed out of the zucchini has a certain faint flavor that can find its uses in vegetable soups, canned soups, or vegetable sauces.
COURGETTES RAPÉES, SAUTÉES
[Grated Zucchini Sautéed in Butter and Shallots]
This is the base recipe for sautéed grated zucchini. Serve it as is, with the addition of a little more butter, or turn it into one of the variations that follow. Like the blanched and sautéed zucchini pieces, this recipe goes with anything and is particularly useful when you want a rather neutral but attractive green accompaniment to creamed dishes like sweetbreads and elaborate soles in white wine sauces. You may also use it rather than spinach as a bed for poached eggs in hollandaise sauce, creamed chicken, and their like.
For 4 to 6 servings
1) Preliminary sautéing
2 to 2½ lbs. zucchini (6 to 7 zucchini 8 by 1¾ inches, for example)
2 Tb butter
1 Tb olive oil or cooking oil
A large (11-inch) no-stick or enameled frying pan
2 to 3 Tb minced shallots or scallions
A cover for the pan if needed
Trim, wash, grate, salt, squeeze, and dry the zucchini as directed in notes preceding this recipe. (You will have 2 to 2½ cups.) Melt the butter with the olive oil over moderate heat, stir in the shallots or scallions, and cook for a moment, then raise heat to moderately high. When butter foam has begun to subside, add zucchini. Toss and turn it frequently for 4 to 5 minutes, shaking and swirling the pan by its handle. Zucchini is ready to serve as soon as it is tender; taste to check. (If you wish, you may cover the pan and finish cooking for a few more minutes over low heat.)
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: Zu
cchini may be completed to this point several hours in advance of serving. Set aside uncovered; cover when cool, and reheat before proceeding.
2) Final flavoring and serving
More salt if needed, and white pepper
2 to 3 Tb soft butter, more if you wish
A rubber spatula
A hot serving dish
Shortly before serving, reheat the zucchini, tossing and turning it. Taste carefully for seasoning. Remove from heat and fold in the butter, a tablespoon at a time, with rubber spatula. Turn into hot dish and serve immediately.
VARIATIONS
Courgettes Rapées à la Crème
[Grated Zucchini Simmered in Cream]
After sautéing the zucchini, Step 1 in the preceding Master Recipe, pour in about 1 cup of crème fraîche or heavy cream; simmer the zucchini for several minutes until cream has been absorbed and thickened. Reheat just before serving, and fold in a tablespoon or so of soft butter.
Courgettes Rapées, Sautées à la Provençale
[Grated Zucchini Sautéed in Olive Oil with Garlic]