Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2
Page 69
for nests or mounds (duchesse)
with turnips (navets parmentier), I: 487
molded, with cheese (galette de, au fromage)
pancakes (crêpes de), I: 521
filled (galettes de, farcies)
made from leftover mashed (galettes de, duchesse)
pie with herbs and cream (tourte limousine)
salads (salade de)
with beans, etc. (niçoise), I: 542
with beef (boeuf à la parisienne), I: 543
with beets (à la d’Argenson), I: 543
French (à l’huile), I: 541
sautéed
balls (parisiennes), I: 528
in butter (sautées; pour garniture; château), I: 526–8
diced (en dés), I: 528
with lemon and garlic (sautées, calabraise)
scalloped
with carrots and cream (gratin de, Crécy), I: 525
in cream (gratin jurassien), I: 524
with meat stock and cheese (gratin savoyard), I: 524
with milk and cheese (gratin dauphinois), I: 523
with onions and tomatoes (gratin de, provençal), I: 525, 578
soups
garlic with (soupe à l’ail aux), I: 48
with leeks
and celery (potage Célestine)
or onion (potage Parmentier), I: 37
vichyssoise, I: 39
and watercress (potage au cresson), I: 38–9
with stews
beef with olives
veal (printanier)
with truffles (sarladaise)
with veal chops or steaks
potiron: see pumpkins and winter squashes
poularde: see chicken
poulet: see chicken
poultry, I: 234–87; 4.1
to disjoint
to half-bone
preserved
stock, I: 109, 236, 237
to truss, I: 237–9; 4.1
see also chicken; duck; goose; etc.
pound cake (le quatre quarts)
pralin (caramelized ground nuts)
almonds (aux amandes), I: 583; 7.1
walnuts (aux noix)
precooking: symbol (*) in recipes
preserved goose (confit d’oie): see goose, preserved
preserves
fillings for crêpes, I: 654
sauces and glazes, I: 593–4
pressure cooker
for dried beans, I: 400
for soups, I: 37, 40
for stocks, I: 107
Progrès, le
prune(s) (pruneaux)
and foie gras stuffing for goose, I: 284
tart with cream cheese, I: 648
puff pastry (feuilletée): see pastry, puff
puff shells; puffs (pâte à choux), I: 177–81
pumpkins and winter squashes (potiron)
general information, 6.1
purée with white beans (gratin de, d’Arpajon)
soup (potage au)
stuffed (tout rond)
purée, to (definition of), I: 13
purée(s) (purées)
apple (soufflé base)
cauliflower and watercress (choufleur en verdure), I: 460
chestnut (de marrons), I: 518
garlic and basil (pistou), 3.1, 6.1, 6.2
jam, preserves, or jelly, for sauce, I: 593
mushroom, to stuff artichoke bottoms
pumpkin with white beans (gratin de potiron d’Arpajon)
raspberry, for sauce, I: 592, 630
rice and turnip (Freneuse)
rutabagas (la, châteaux en Suède)
spinach (d’épinards simple), I: 469
strawberry, for sauce, I: 592
tomato with garlic and herbs (coulis de tomates à la provençale), I: 78
turnip and potato (de navets Parmentier), I: 487
white bean soup with garnish (soupe à la Victorine)
see also potatoes, mashed
puréeing, I: 13
electric blender for soups, I: 37; 1.1
food mill, I: 9; 3, 535
Q
quail, roast (caille rôtie), I: 246
quatre épices, for charcuterie
quatre quarts, le (pound cake)
quenelle(s), I: 184–90
beef (de boeuf provençales)
in chicken filling for vol-au-vent (garniture de volaille, financière)
of fish (de poisson), I: 185
fish for, I: 185
gratin of, I: 188
with oysters (aux huîtres), I: 188
of salmon (de saumon), I: 189
of shellfish (de crustacés), I: 189
of poultry or veal (de volailles ou de veau), I: 189
stuffing for fish filets, I: 216
in sweetbread filling for vol-au-vent (ris de veau à la financière)
see also mousses, entrée
quiche(s), I: 146–53
Camembert, I: 148
cheese (au fromage), I: 147–8
cream and bacon (Lorraine), I: 147
endive (aux endives), I: 152
leek (aux poireaux; flamiche), I: 151
Lorraine, I: 147
mushroom (aux champignons), I: 152
onion (aux oignons), I: 150
pastry shells for
described, I: 143; 2.1
dough, I: 139–43; 2.1, 2.2
forming and baking, I: 143–6; 2.1
Roquefort, I: 148
seafood (aux fruits de mer), I: 149
spinach (aux épinards), I: 153
Swiss cheese), I: 147
tomato (à la tomate, niçoise), I: 148
R
rabbit (lapin)
general information, 3.1
buying and preparing for cooking
thawing frozen
pâté, I: 568
stewed in red wine (au Saupiquet)
rafraîchir (to refresh), I: 13
ragoûts: see beef, stew; veal, stew; etc.
raised batters and doughs (pâtes levées)
babas and savarins, I: 658
crêpes, I: 649, 650
French breads, brioches, croissants
raisin(s) (raisins)
with braised onions
bread, 2.1, 2.2
brioche with (kougloff)
in sauce for beef tongue
raspberry(ies) (framboises)
bavarian cream (bavarois), I: 600
in brioche cake (le Marly; la Riposte)
Chantilly, I: 608
cream plombières, I: 595
malakoff, I: 607
sauce, fresh, I: 592
on peaches, I: 630
sherbet and ice cream (mousse aux)
ratatouille, I: 503, 577
ravigote sauce, I: 95
reduce, to (definition of), I: 13
reduire (to reduce), I: 13
en purée (to purée), I: 13
refresh, to (definition of), I: 13
Reine de Saba, I: 677
rémoulade sauce, I: 91
ribbon, to form the, I: 579
rice (riz), I: 528–35
and beet salad (à la d’Argenson), I: 543
boiled, for salads (au blanc), I: 532
braised (risotto; pilaf, pilau), I: 532
buttered (I, II, III) (à l’anglaise; au beurre; étuvé au beurre), I: 530–1
mold, orange-flavored with cherries (des Hespérides)
with mushrooms (duxelles), I: 531
with mussels (pilaf de moules), I: 231
and onions (soubise), I: 355, 485
packaged precooked, I: 534–5
panade for pâtés
pudding (à l’Impératrice), I: 601
ring of (en couronne), I: 534
steamed (à l’indienne; à la vapeur), I: 529
in stuffings: see list of stuffings, app.1
and turnips, purée (purée Freneuse)
wild, I: 535
and zucchini, gratin of (tian)
Ripo
ste, la
ris de veau: see sweetbreads
risotto, I: 532
riz: see rice
rognons: see kidneys
rognures (leftover puff pastry)
rolls
beef: see beef, rolls
brioches, small
cream (rouleaux), 2.1, 7.1
croissants
French bread, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3
rooster, I: 235
rouille, sauce for fish soup, I: 51–2
roulades: see beef, rolls
rouleaux (cream rolls)
as appetizer with cheese filling
as dessert with cream filling
roux
for braising sauce
for brown sauce, I: 68; 3.1
for cheese sauce
for white sauce, I: 56
rum (rhum)
in apple aspic, I: 627
babas, I: 660–1
in butter creams, I: 681–4
cake, caramel custard, flambée (charlotte Jamaïque en flammes)
for cooking, I: 32
soufflé, with macaroons (soufflé démoulé aux macaroons), I: 620
syrup for babas, I: 660
rutabagas, I: 485–6
purée (la purée, châteaux en Suède)
rye flour, in spice cake (pain d’épices)
S
sabayon sauce, for pears
Saint-André, le, 7.1, 7.2
Saint-Cyr, le, glacé
Saint-Jacques en bouillabaisse, les
Saint-Jacques, velouté de
salad(s) (salades), I: 541–4
combination (niçoise), I: 542
mussel (de moules), I: 229
potato (de pommes de terre), I: 541–4
rice for (riz au blanc), I: 532
rice and beet (à la d’Argenson), I: 543
sweet pepper (de poivrons, provençale)
salmon (saumon)
gratin (aux fruits de mer), I: 156
mousse, I: 562
quenelles, I: 189
soufflé, I: 166
variations, I: 167
in stuffing for lamb (farce mentonnaise), I: 338
timbales, I: 175
salt
general information, I: 23
cure of goose
cure of pork
to remove excess, I: 23
spiced, for charcuterie (sel épicé)
sauce(s), I: 54–105
note: sauces for desserts listed separately
general information, I: 54–5
aïoli, I: 92; 1.1
for chicken (bouillabaisse)
for fish stew (bourride)
alsacienne; de Sorges, I: 93
anchovy (aux anchois), I: 66
with garlic for beef stew (provençale), I: 324
aurore, I: 62
bâtarde, I: 64
béarnaise, I: 84
with meat-glaze flavoring (Colbert), I: 85
with tomato flavoring (Choron), I: 85
béchamel, I: 55–64
with eggplant
bercy
with fish filets, I: 210
with steak, I: 294
bonne femme, I: 216
bordelaise, I: 76, 295, 419
bourguignonne, I: 76
brandy, I: 296
brown (brunes), I: 66–76
butter (beurre)
brown (noir; noisette), I: 98–9
for calf’s brains, I: 413
for chicken breasts (noisette), I: 270
cold flavored, I: 99–105
lemon (au citron), I: 98
white (blanc; nantais), I: 96
caper (aux câpres), I: 65
Chantilly, I: 83
chasseur, I: 75, 368
chaud-froid
blanche neige, I: 105
for chicken
cheese with wine and garlic (fondue de fromage), I: 105, 118
chivry, I: 62
choron, I: 85
Colbert, I: 85
cream (crème; suprême), I: 59, 60, 268, 458
and mushroom, for ham, I: 392
and mustard, for liver, I: 406
sour (vinaigrette à la crème), with dill, I: 95
and white wine, for chicken fricassee, I: 260
curry
brown (brune au cari), I: 73
white (au cari), I: 63, 261; 3.1
deglazing, I: 76, 255–6, 271
diable, I: 71
dieppoise, I: 214
dill, I: 95
duxelles, I: 74
egg yolk
(parisienne; allemande), I: 60
see also below hollandaise; mayonnaise
espagnole (sauce base), I: 66
game (poivrade), I: 70
garlic (à l’ail)
and anchovy for beef stew, I: 324
and basil (pistou), I: 45; 3.1, 6.1, 6.2
and egg yolks for chicken, I: 257
for lamb, I: 334
mayonnaise (aïoli), I: 92; 1.1, 4.1
and pepper (rouille) for fish soup, I: 52
herbal
brown (aux fines herbes), I: 73
hollandaise, I: 82
mayonnaise, I: 89–90, 93
white wine (Chivry), I: 62
hollandaise, I: 79–85
electric blender, I: 81
handmade, I: 79
mock (bâtarde; au beurre), I: 64
variations, I: 82–5
italienne, I: 76, 411
jus lié, I: 70
Madeira (madère), I: 75, 298, 300
brown, with truffles (Périgueux), I: 75
with mushrooms, I: 515
for tongue
maltaise, I: 83
marchand de vins, I: 295
marrow (moelle), I: 76, 294–5, 419
matelote, I: 415
mayonnaise, I: 86–93
electric blender, I: 88
handmade, I: 87
remedy for turned, I: 88
variations, I: 89–93
mornay, I: 61, 193
for broccoli
for poached chicken
mousseline, I: 83
sabayon, I: 84, 169
mushroom (duxelles), I: 74
brown (à l’italienne), I: 76, 411
and cream, I: 392
with tomatoes (chasseur), I: 75, 368
mustard (moutarde), I: 66, 95
brown (Robert), I: 72
with cream (à la normande), I: 382
for liver, I: 406
with pearl onions and raisins, for tongue (à l’aigre—douce)
with tomatoes and cream (Nénette), I: 387
Nantua, I: 216
Nénette, I: 387
normande, I: 215
onion (soubise), I: 64, 355, 485
orange, I: 76, 276
paprika (au paprika), I: 262, 268
parisienne, I: 60, 212, 214–16
Périgueux, I: 75
pimento, for chicken (suprême pimentée)
piquante, I: 72
poivrade, I: 70
port wine (au porto), I: 75
ragoût, I: 69
ravigote, I: 95
rémoulade, I: 91
Riviera, I: 90
Robert, I: 72
roux
for brown sauce, I: 68; 3.1
for braising sauce
for cheese sauce
for white sauce, I: 56
Saupiquet, for braising rabbit
soubise, I: 64, 355, 485
suprême, I: 59, 188
tarragon (estragon)
béarnaise, I: 84
brown (brune à l’), I: 73, 251
for chicken, I: 262; 4.1
white (Chivry), I: 62
tartare, I: 90
thermidor, I: 221
tomato (tomate)
with canned tomatoes
classic, I: 76
fresh tomatoes (coulis), I: 78, 388
truffle (Périgueux), I: 75, 271
velouté, I: 55–64, 356–7,
363
venison (venaison), I: 70
vinaigrette, I: 94–5
Walewska, I: 215
white
béchamels and veloutés, I: 55–66
butter (beurre blanc; beurre nantais), I: 96
wine, I: 62, 84, 217, 294–5
sauce(s) for desserts, I: 588–93
apricot (confit d’abricots en sirop)
chocolate
custard
crème anglaise, I: 588, 683; 7.1, 7.2
sabayon
jam or jelly, I: 593
raspberry (aux framboises), I: 592, 630
sabayon, for pears
strawberry (aux fraises), I: 592
saucisse, saucisson: see sausage
sauerkraut (choucroute), I: 280, 385
braised (braisée à l’alsacienne), I: 498
with meat garnish (garnie), I: 499
sausage(s) (saucisses et saucissons)
general information, 5.1
casings
buying and preparing
filling
substitutes for
caul fat
cheesecloth
to cure, to hang (saucisson à cuire)
cuts for
fat for
making links
salt and spices (épices fines)
with beans (cassoulet), I: 401
with boiled beef (pot-au-feu), I: 306
boudin blanc, 4.1, 5.1
breakfast (chair à saucisse)
in brioche (en brioche)
with aspic
formed in a loaf pan
free-form
braised beef and greens (les tous nus; quenelles de boeuf provençales)
cakes, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3
French type, homemade, I: 403
casings: see above, general information, casings
chard or spinach
with beef (tous nus)
pork and liver (caillettes)
chicken liver in brioche (de foies de volaille)
chipolatas, 5.1, 5.2
goose-neck, stuffed (cou d’oie farcie)
gratin, with potatoes, I: 155
large, fresh, to cook (à cuire)
other suggestions
links
liver, chicken (de foies de volaille)
liver, pork, and greens (caillettes; gayettes)
meat loaf, 5.1, 5.2
panade for, 5.1, 5.2
plain pork (chair à)
in plain or puff pastry (en croûte)
Polish, I: 404
pork and liver with greens (caillettes; gayettes)
pork and veal with truffles and foie gras (truffé au foie gras)
Provençal, braised beef and greens (les tous nus; quenelles de boeuf)
in stuffings, I: 275, 286; 3.1, 3.2, 5.1, 6.1
white-meat (boudin blanc), 4.1, 5.1
sauté, general information, I: 13
sauter (to sauté), I: 13
savarins, I: 662–5
fillings for, I: 664
mold for, I: 662
small (petits), I: 665
syrup for, I: 663
with whipped cream (Chantilly), I: 664
scallop(s) (coquilles Saint-Jacques)
bouillabaisse of (les Saint-Jacques en bouillabaisse)
variations