by Nick Zukin
Dough for Kreplach and Varnishkes
Makes 1 pound
This basic egg dough does double duty—as the wrapper for the Jewish dumplings known as Kreplach (see here) and as the bow-tie noodles, varnishkes in Yiddish, that go with Kasha (see here). Whether you use a pasta machine or a rolling pin, be sure to roll out the dough to about ¹⁄16 inch or thin enough to be able to see your hand through it. If the dough starts to pull back after hand-rolling, use an old baker’s trick: Instead of fighting it, let the dough rest for a minute or two before rolling it out. Don’t be discouraged if your pasta pockets or bow ties aren’t perfect on your first try. It takes a little practice to be as good as your grandmother.
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
½ teaspoon kosher salt
3 large eggs, beaten
Combine the flour and salt in the work bowl of a food processor. Pulse three times to distribute the salt. Add the eggs and 1 tablespoon water and process until a ball forms, 15 to 30 seconds. If after 15 seconds the dough doesn’t begin to form a ball (it will probably appear sandy or pebbly), add a little more water (just a teaspoon at a time) without stopping the machine until a ball forms.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until the dough is smooth and supple, about 2 minutes. Form the dough into a ball, and then use a knife to divide it into 5 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a fat disk. Wrap each disk in plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature to rest for at least 20 minutes, and up to 3 hours, before using.
To roll out the dough: If using a pasta machine, set the roller to its widest setting. Remove the plastic from 1 disk of dough and shape the dough into a rectangular shape thin enough to pass through the pasta roller. Pass it through the pasta roller, and then fold it end to end and pass it through the rollers again. Repeat folding and passing the sheet of pasta through the rollers five more times, lightly dusting the pasta if it begins to stick to the rollers. Set your pasta roller to the next smallest width and pass the sheet of pasta through the rollers. Continue passing the pasta through the rollers, decreasing the width of the rollers each time, until the pasta is thin enough that you can see your hand through it, usually the thinnest or next-to-thinnest setting on the pasta rollers. Dust the pasta on both sides with flour and set on a clean dry work surface, Left uncut, the sheet of pasta should be about 32 inches long and 5½ inches wide. Cut it in half crosswise if it is too long to fit on the counter.
To cut the dough for kreplach: For triangular kreplach, use a sharp knife to cut the sheet of pasta lengthwise into 2 long even strips, each about 2½ inches wide. Cut the strips into 2½-inch squares, reserving any uneven edge pieces. For half-moon kreplach, use a 2½-inch biscuit cutter to cut pasta circles. The pieces of pasta can be dusted with flour, stacked, covered in plastic, and stored in the refrigerator for up to a day before using. The scraps can be re-rolled and cut to make additional pieces.
To cut the dough for varnishkes (bow-tie pasta): Using a sharp knife, cut the sheet of pasta lengthwise into 4 even strips, each about 1¼ inches wide. (Cutting the pasta will be easier if you cut the sheet of pasta into shorter segments first.) Cut each strip of pasta into rectangles twice as long as they are wide, creating individual pieces about 1¼ inches by 2½ inches. Place your index finger in the middle of one of the pieces, your thumb on the center of the bottom edge, and your middle finger on the center of the top edge of the piece of pasta. Delicately holding the piece of pasta in place with your index finger, draw your thumb and middle finger toward your index finger, dragging the edges of the pasta into your index finger and forming a bow-tie shape with a crease down the center of the piece of pasta. Lift your index finger from the pasta and squeeze your thumb and middle finger together, sealing the edges of the pasta together in the middle and securing the bow-tie shape.
Kreplach Fillings
The origins of the krepl (the singular in Yiddish; kreplach is plural) are uncertain. Different sources speculate that the idea of boiled or fried noodle pockets stuffed with a chopped filling came to the northern European Ashkenazis from Italy, the home of ravioli, or from Asia, brought by Tatar invaders. Regardless of origin, these dumplings represent a timeless method to efficiently use up too-expensive-to-waste leftover meat. Modern filling ideas encompass more than meat, such as our cheese or mushroom varieties. A little filling goes a long way, since only a small amount is needed for each krepl. Either freeze any unused filling for next time or call out the reinforcements to help make enough kreplach to serve everyone at extended family gatherings.
Mushroom Filling
Makes 1 cup (enough for about 100 kreplach)
This vegetarian-friendly filling is full of flavor and hearty enough to satisfy any appetite. If it’s available, porcini powder (see Sources and Resources) adds a distinctive deep earthiness to the mix.
8 ounces cremini mushrooms, stem ends trimmed and sliced or coarsely chopped
¼ large yellow onion, coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon porcini mushroom powder (optional)
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon dried thyme
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
In the work bowl of a food processor, process the cremini mushrooms, onion, garlic, porcini mushroom powder, if using, salt, thyme, coriander, and pepper until the mixture is evenly and very finely chopped.
Place a medium skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil. When the pan is hot and the oil begins to shimmer, add the mushroom mixture.
Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms release their liquid and the liquid evaporates, leaving a moist paste, but no puddling in the pan, about 10 minutes. Use immediately; or cool, transfer to an airtight container, and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 1 month.
Beef Filling
Makes 2 cups (enough for about 200 kreplach)
This is an ideal use for leftover Seasonal Pot Roast (see here and here). Use the roast instead of fresh beef, skip the browning, and reduce the braising time to about 30 minutes.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1½ pounds beef brisket or boneless chuck, trimmed of fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 (3-inch) piece peeled carrot, coarsely chopped
½ medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon dried parsley
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup Homemade Chicken Broth, canned low-sodium chicken broth, or water
Kosher salt
Place a Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the oil. When the oil begins to smoke, add the beef in one layer, without crowding the pan, and brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. (Brown the meat in batches, if necessary, adding more oil as needed.)
Meanwhile, in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, process the carrot, onion, and garlic until finely minced.
When the meat is browned, add the minced vegetables to the pan along with the thyme, parsley, and black pepper. Stir to combine, cooking until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth. Using a wooden spoon, stir to scrape up any browned bits that are stuck to the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the beef is very soft and easily falls apart, about 2½ hours.
Remove the lid and raise the heat to medium. Using a fork or spatula, shred the beef. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until nearly all of the liquid evaporates, leaving only moist shredded beef. Taste the meat, adding salt, if needed. Use immediately; or cool, transfer to an airtight container, and refrigerate for up to 5 days or freeze for up to 1 month.
Savory Cheese Filling
Makes ½ cup (enough for a
bout 50 kreplach)
The simple combination of farmer cheese and seasonal fresh herbs completes our trio of filling favorites. Don’t worry if most of the cheese absorbs into the kreplach skin. The flavor will remain intact.
½ cup farmer cheese
1 tablespoon finely chopped mixed fresh herbs (such as chives, flat-leaf parsley, and/or dill)
Kosher salt
In a medium bowl, whisk together the cheese and herbs. Most farmer cheese is salty enough on its own, but taste and add a pinch or two of salt, if desired. Use immediately, or transfer to a covered container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.
Russian Dressing
Makes 1 cup
Our not-so-secret Russian dressing recipe gets its zip from Worcestershire and hot sauces and our own Spicy Pickle Relish. If desired, substitute a sweetish store-bought relish to save some time. Mexican- or Louisiana-style hot sauces are fine to use, but for our money, the Asian-style sriracha is the best in class. This dressing can be used for salad, including our Deli Chopped Salad, but it is also a vital component in our Pastrami Reuben Sandwiches and in Kenny & Zuke’s popular Pastrami Burgers.
¾ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons ketchup
2 tablespoons Spicy Pickle Relish or store-bought sweet pickle relish
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon hot sauce (Mexican, Louisiana, or sriracha variety)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, ketchup, relish, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, and salt. Stir together until thoroughly combined. Transfer to a covered container and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
Bagel Chips
Makes 40 to 50 chips
Don’t throw away those day-old or even two-day-old bagels! Make bagel chips instead. Lightly salted and baked with just a touch of oil, they are as addictive as potato or corn chips, but not nearly as greasy. These chips can also be used to accompany your favorite dip or, broken into pieces, as a salad topper in place of croutons. When slicing the bagels, ensure that the slices are of even thickness to avoid having some burn while others are not baked to complete crispness. Cooking spray ensures that these treats are all but oil-free; however, brushing the slices very lightly with vegetable oil works too.
2 bagels
Vegetable oil cooking spray
Kosher salt
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper.
Place a bagel flat on a cutting board. Use a serrated bread knife or sharp chef’s knife to slice the bagel as thinly as possible from top to bottom. Repeat with the other bagel.
Arrange the slices in a single layer on the prepared baking sheets. Evenly coat the bagel slices with the cooking spray, then turn them over and coat the other side. Lightly sprinkle the bagel slices with salt. Place in the oven and bake until lightly golden brown and beginning to crisp, 8 to 12 minutes. The bagel chips will crisp up more as they cool. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Chapter 2
On a typical deli visit, the focus is invariably on the meats and breads—from pastrami and corned beef to rye bread and bagels. We love this stuff as much as anyone and devote entire chapters to each (Chapters 5 and 6). But that’s barely scratching the surface of a century-long tradition of generous and wide-ranging Jewish deli hospitality.
Among a long list of favorites, there are dozens of items typically enjoyed before the jaw-challenging sandwiches are served or as an accompaniment to the main course. Many of the offerings center on the starches that helped keep shtetl-bound Ashkenazis full at minimal cost. The knish—a Jewish version of a savory turnover—is offered for your heat-and-eat pleasure in two versions: with mashed potato and onion (see here) and with smoked meat (see here), a recipe from our friends at Caplansky’s in Toronto. The potatoey pleasure of the latke is another deli treat, and we have three recipes to try: classic Crispy Potato Latkes with Chunky Ginger Applesauce, simple Fluffy Potato Latkes, and lighter, modern-leaning Zucchini Latkes with Tomato Relish, which skip the potato altogether.
Not to ruin all the fun of poking around in this chapter (don’t worry; it covers a lot of territory), but chopped-liver lovers will have to see how our version on see here stacks up against the kind their bobe (grandmother) used to make. And speaking of ancestral favorites, Michael’s grandmother, Rose Fertig, who grew up in a Yiddish-speaking household, made a crispy-topped, buttery noodle keegal that we have lovingly re-created on see here from her original little-of-this-little-of-that instructions.
Wise Sons’ Shtetl Toast
Serves 4 to 6
The Wise Sons supplied this recipe, which is a perfect example of old-line deli ingredients being used in a new and interesting way. Wise Sons co-proprietor Evan Bloom shared his thoughts: “Shmaltz is an ingredient that many wince at. We get a lot of empty stares when we tell people that it is rendered chicken fat and onions. I explain that it is the base of many delicious Jewish foods—from chopped liver to matzo balls to kasha varnishkes. We’re not ashamed to say that we use it to build flavor in a lot of our cooking. Here it’s spread on toast, the luxurious savory fat cut by a simple herb salad. Don’t be scared—bobe lived to be 95!”
½ large clove garlic, minced
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Flaked sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 to 6 slices Classic Deli Sandwich Rye
½ cup Chicken Schmaltz, at room temperature
Leaves from ½ bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley
Fronds from ½ bunch fresh dill
3 large radishes, thinly sliced into rounds (use red or French breakfast radishes)
⅓ cup coarsely chopped Gribenes (see here)
Kosher salt
In a medium bowl, macerate the garlic in the vinegar for 15 minutes. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until completely combined (emulsified). Add sea salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
Heat a griddle or large cast-iron pan over medium-high heat until hot. While the pan is heating, liberally brush both sides of the bread with schmaltz. Arrange the slices on the griddle or in the pan and cook until crisp and golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip to crisp the other side, about 2 minutes longer.
Meanwhile, give the dressing a quick stir, add the herbs and radishes to the bowl, and toss until lightly dressed. Place a slice of the fried bread on a warm plate, mound a small portion of the salad in the center, and garnish with the gribenes and a sprinkling of kosher salt.
Open-Face Potato Knishes
Makes 16 knishes
With a heritage that stretches back to the pushcarts that plied the streets of New York City in the late nineteenth century, the knish is one of the defining Jewish delicatessen dishes. The open-face baked knish is a tradition that Yonah Schimmel’s has carried on continuously for more than a century, first on Coney Island, then on the Lower East Side, where the shop that has been open since 1910 still remains. Our knish recipe, adapted from one by Canadian Jewish cookbook author and blogger Pam Reiss, follows the same luscious tradition. If desired, the potatoes can be mixed with cooked mushrooms, kasha, mashed sweet potatoes, other vegetables, or even meat (see here for our Smoked Meat Knish recipe). These knishes make a fine side dish to roast chicken or one of our seasonal brisket preparations (see here and here). Or eat them as a snack with deli mustard on the side.
Dough
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 large egg
½ cup vegetable oil
½ cup lukewarm water
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
Filling
3 pounds Russet potatoes, peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon kosher salt
/> ½ teaspoon finely ground black pepper
1½ cups Caramelized Onions, plus ⅓ cup for topping the knishes
To make the dough, fit a stand mixer with the paddle attachment. In the mixer bowl, combine 1 cup of the flour, the baking powder, and salt. Mix the contents on medium speed for 15 seconds. Add the egg, oil, water, and vinegar to the center of the flour mixture. Mix on medium speed until fully combined and the mixture has the consistency of cake batter, about 2 minutes. Remove the paddle attachment, scraping any excess into the bowl. Fit the mixer with the dough hook attachment. Add the remaining 1 cup flour to the center of the bowl. With the mixer on low speed, knead the dough until it is smooth and glossy, 5 to 8 minutes. Use your hands to form the dough into a ball and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap. Set it aside to rest at room temperature for about 2 hours.
To make the filling, while the dough is resting, steam the potatoes in a pot fitted with a steamer basket until very soft, about 15 minutes. Drain the potatoes thoroughly, place them in a large bowl, and mash with the salt and pepper until most of the large lumps have been eliminated. Fold in the 1½ cups of caramelized onions until evenly distributed in the mashed potatoes. Allow the potato-onion mixture to cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
Unwrap the dough and place it on a large, smooth, unfloured work surface. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out as thin as possible into a rectangle. Then begin stretching the dough by hand into a larger rectangle, approximately 16 by 32 inches, by lifting up the dough from the center and slowly and gently pulling it outward and laying it back down. Work around the dough in a circle, until it is stretched to the point of being very thin and translucent. Where it remains thicker in the middle of the sheet, lift up the dough so that it rests evenly on the backs of your hands, and gently stretch the dough before laying it back down on the work surface. It will tear in places, leaving holes. Since the dough will be rolled in a later step, creating layers, some tearing is acceptable. After the bulk of the dough is stretched into a rectangle, stretch any thick portions of the lip of the dough sheet as much as possible.