by Nick Zukin
Along the full length of one long edge of the stretched dough and about 2 inches in from the edge, spoon the potato filling in a log shape, weaving around any holes. Slice off the outer lip of the dough, about ½ inch in from the edge, with a sharp knife or pizza cutter.
Pull and stretch the edge of the dough over and around the log of potato filling. Fold in the ends of the dough and, starting at one end of the log, slowly and carefully lift and roll the log of filling, one turn at a time, down the entire length, until all the dough has been rolled around the potato mixture. (Try not to compress the filling unnecessarily at any time while making the knishes or the potato filling will be more likely to expand and split the pastry shell when the knishes are baked.) Straighten the roll and cut it into 16 equal pieces with a sharp knife (wipe it clean between cuts). A serrated bread knife works best for this.
Take a piece of the log and lay the more cleanly cut end flat in your palm. Lightly press in on the potato filling, then pull the dough from the edge into the center of the knish, pinching it together until the dough fully encloses the potato mixture. Place the knish dough side down on the baking sheet. Lightly flatten the top of the knish and form it into a neat circle. Repeat with the remaining pieces of the knish log, evenly spacing the knishes on the baking sheet.
(At this stage, the unbaked knishes can be frozen and will keep for a month in the freezer. Thaw at room temperature before baking.)
Bake the knishes for 25 minutes or until the pastry is golden brown, rotating the baking sheet 180 degrees after 15 minutes. Top each knish with 1 teaspoon of caramelized onions and serve warm.
Baked knishes may be kept in the refrigerator, wrapped in plastic wrap, for up to 5 days. Reheat by placing them in a preheated 450°F oven until warm in the center, about 5 minutes.
Caplansky’s Smoked Meat Knishes
Serves 8
“You must remember this, a knish is still a knish. . . .” We do not recommend belting out this lyric as you dish up the very same meat-party-on-a-plate served by zany-creative Zane Caplansky at his eponymous Toronto deli, Caplansky’s. Watching Casablanca will never be quite the same, and besides, this modern twist on the humble Jewish savory pie is not just another knish. With its pastrami-rich gravy underlying the pastrami-and-potato-filled tart enveloped by a puff pastry rather than traditional piecrust, it bears little resemblance to what your bobe made your zayde back in the old country. We are pleased to share Caplansky’s reinvented knish recipe, adapted for home cooks. Remember that “smoked meat” is a Canadian cured beef that’s nearly identical to pastrami. Use whichever is most readily available in your area.
Gravy
1 tablespoon Chicken Schmaltz or vegetable oil
½ medium white onion, diced
1 large clove garlic, minced
12 ounces pastrami, diced
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups Homemade Chicken Broth or canned low-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
Kosher salt
Knishes
1 (12-ounce) box frozen puff pastry sheets (2 sheets)
1 pound Russet potatoes, cut into ½-inch dice
Kosher salt
1 tablespoon Chicken Schmaltz or vegetable oil
1 medium white onion, diced
2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary
1½ teaspoons ground coriander
1¼ pounds pastrami or smoked meat, finely diced
All-purpose flour, for dusting
1 large egg, beaten
3 teaspoons sesame seeds
To make the gravy, in a large saucepan, melt the schmaltz over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the pastrami and increase the heat to medium-high. Stirring almost constantly, cook the meat until it is evenly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Decrease the heat to medium and stir in the flour. Continue stirring until the flour is light brown in color, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the chicken broth and bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the rosemary and thyme. Simmer the gravy, stirring occasionally, until the flavors come together, about 5 minutes. Taste and add a pinch of salt, if needed. If the gravy is too thick, thin it with additional broth. If using the gravy immediately, keep it warm until the knishes are ready to serve. The gravy can be made in advance and then refrigerated, covered, for up to 3 days. Rewarm it over medium-low heat before serving.
To make the knishes, transfer the box of puff pastry to the refrigerator to partially thaw for about 40 minutes before it will be used. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
Place the potatoes in a large saucepan. Fill the saucepan two-thirds full with cold water, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain the potatoes well and transfer them back to the dry pan. Place the potatoes over low heat until the excess moisture has evaporated, about 1 minute. Remove the potatoes from the heat and mash them with a potato masher. Set them aside to cool.
In a medium skillet, melt the schmaltz over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is soft and browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the rosemary and coriander and cook to release their aroma, about 30 seconds. Transfer the onion mixture to a large bowl. Add the mashed potatoes and pastrami, and stir to combine. Set aside.
Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Unwrap the puff pastry, and working with 1 sheet of puff pastry at a time, unfold the dough. Roll the dough out to an even 13-inch square, lightly flouring the top of the dough and the rolling pin as needed. Place half of the filling mixture in the center of the dough and use your hands to form the filling into a 5-inch square with straight edges and sharp corners that is about 1 inch high. Fold the top and bottom edges of the puff pastry over the top of the filling, and then fold over the sides to completely encase the filling in dough. If the dough is too short to meet in the middle, gently stretch it, or roll it a bit more with the rolling pin, until the edges will slightly overlap on top of the knish. Press the dough gently to secure it, making a tight, square-shaped knish. Transfer it to the prepared baking sheet. Repeat this process with the other sheet of dough and the remaining filling to form a second knish and place it on the other half of the baking sheet.
Lightly brush the tops of the knishes with the egg, and then sprinkle each with the sesame seeds. Bake the knishes until the crusts are golden brown and slightly puffy, about 30 minutes. Allow them to cool for about 5 minutes, and then cut each knish into 4 slices. Serve them on warmed plates atop a pool of the gravy.
Talking Deli with . . .
Sharon Lebewohl
The 2nd Avenue Deli is on the short list of New York City classics. Sharon Lebewohl is the daughter of its founder, Abe Lebewohl, who was murdered in 1996 on his way from the deli to the bank. Sharon and Abe’s brother, Jack Lebewohl, have carried on the family business ever since that sad day, with the exception of a one-year closure and relocation between 2006 and 2007.
What was it like growing up as a Jewish deli insider? Any special memories you can share?
Lebewohl: The deli, or “the store,” as we referred to it, was my second home. After school, my sister and I went to the store to do our homework. On Sundays and holidays we both worked in the deli. We bused tables, socialized with customers, and hosted. I once filled in as the dishwasher. I felt very connected to the deli and my father. Even though my father worked 14 hours a day, which continued until the day he died, my sister and I saw him every day. During the summer, we would go to the deli at 10 PM and walk my father home. After I had children, they worked in the deli as well. We never took vacations, but I never felt deprived.
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Thanksgiving to me was very special. We would deliver orders, work in the restaurant, and when we could no longer move, my whole family would sit down to Thanksgiving dinner together in the deli.
What are the most and least endearing qualities of the traditional Jewish deli?
Lebewohl: Jewish deli brings me back to my roots. It feels comfortable, soul-nourishing, and it fills me with a sense of belonging. But obviously deli food has some drawbacks.
My father was once on a panel with Mark Federman, third-generation owner of Russ and Daughters, the best appetizing store in the country. They were asked to speak on the topic, “Is deli dying in New York?” Mark had voluminous notes and spoke for a half hour about the health benefits of fish. My father, on the other hand, was not very prepared. When it was his turn to speak, he looked at the audience for a full minute without uttering a word. Finally he said, “What am I gonna tell you? My food will kill you.” After the laughs died down and he gave his speech, all the health-conscious speakers and food writers made a beeline for the buffet. The first things to go were fatty mountains of kishke, pastrami, and corned beef.
You can’t eat deli food every day, but when you eat it, it should be the best. Most customers eat a healthy diet most of the time, but it’s OK to splurge every now and then.
Have you been to Mile End or any of the other modern Jewish delis?
Lebewohl: I have eaten at Mile End. I thought the food was amazing. I had smoked meat in Montreal, and Mile End’s smoked meat was even better than I remember it.
Does the Jewish deli have a role in the advancement of Jewish culture? Do you have a prediction for the deli’s future?
Lebewohl: Delis are definitely part of Jewish culture, and I often wonder what would happen to the cultural connection if the Jewish delis were to die out. There are “bagel and lox Jews” for whom the deli may be their only connection to Judaism, but they feel as connected as someone who goes to synagogue three times a day. There is definitely a future for the Jewish deli, but on certain conditions. Quality is the most important thing. The food needs to be homemade and not taste like it comes from a mix. The Jewish deli also needs to stay current with culinary trends. In his day, my father was always experimenting with new foods. To survive, today’s delis need to do that, too.
Crispy Potato Latkes with Chunky Ginger Applesauce
Makes 6 or 7 latkes
Latkes are a labor-intensive delicacy associated with the late fall or winter celebration of Hanukkah, the Jewish Festival of Lights. However, these traditional potato pancakes are delicious any time of year. It used to be that the sign of a dedicated latke maker was scraped knuckles from hand-grating potatoes and onions with a box grater, or even worse, the old standup grater that looked like a miniature washboard. For all but the most devout traditionalist, the food processor has taken the worst of the labor (and likelihood of injury) out of the equation. Use a coarse grating disk for the potatoes after slicing them in quarters lengthwise to fit into the feed tube. For the onions, grate them in the food processor using either the fine grating disk or by pulsing the onions into a fine mince using the metal blade. If you have Chicken Schmaltz on hand, use it as a flavorful old-style frying medium in place of vegetable oil. But you didn’t hear that from us.
1 pound Russet potatoes
1½ medium (8 ounces) yellow or white onions
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 large egg
1½ cups vegetable oil or Chicken Schmaltz
1 cup Chunky Ginger Applesauce (optional)
1 cup sour cream (optional)
Fill a large bowl with ice water. Peel and grate the potatoes, placing the potatoes in the ice water to keep them from discoloring. Peel and grate the onions. Put the onions into a fine-mesh strainer and use your hand to press down until most of the liquid is drained. Drain the potatoes and dry them thoroughly using a salad spinner, paper towels, or a clean kitchen towel.
Place the potatoes, onions, salt, pepper, and flour in a large bowl and thoroughly mix the ingredients together. Add the egg and mix again until it is completely incorporated.
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Place a large skillet over medium heat. Add the oil and heat it until hot. Test the oil by dropping a small amount of the latke batter in the oil. If the batter bubbles and fries immediately, the oil is ready.
Measure ⅓ cup of the latke batter and place it between your hands, squeezing it, allowing most of the liquid to drain back into the bowl. In your hand, flatten the batter into a patty and place it gently in the hot oil. To minimize the risk of splattering, place the patty on a spatula and then use a fork or knife to slide the patty from the spatula into the oil. Repeat the process with as many patties as can fit into the skillet without crowding the pan. Cook until the underside is dark golden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes. To prevent uneven frying, the latkes can be rotated 180 degrees halfway through the cooking time.
Flip each latke, flattening it with the back of a spatula, and cook until dark golden brown and crisp on the second side, about 4 minutes, rotating them for even browning halfway through the cooking time.
Transfer to a heatproof platter or baking sheet lined with a double thickness of paper towels. Keep warm in the oven while you fry additional batches. Serve with applesauce or sour cream, if desired. The latkes can be held in a 200°F oven for up to 30 minutes.
Variations
Garlic Latkes
Add 2 tablespoons roasted puréed garlic to the ingredients when you add the onions. (Lightly roasted garlic is better than raw here, which can have an excessively sharp taste.)
Roasted Pepper Latkes
Add ⅔ cup of finely diced Roasted Red Peppers to the ingredients when you add the onions. Or you can use the same quantity of Anaheim peppers roasted in a similar way, or buy canned or jarred red peppers. Add another 2 tablespoons finely diced peppers to ½ cup sour cream, if desired, and use as a topping for the latkes.
Chunky Ginger Applesauce
Makes about 2 cups
On its own or as a match-made-in-heaven accompaniment to potato latkes, this simple-to-prepare homemade applesauce beats the jarred varieties hands down. Our recipe refreshes the prosaic applesauce standard with assertive accents of ground ginger and cloves in addition to the more traditional cinnamon. Brown sugar replaces granulated white sugar for added depth, and using both tart-firm and sweet-soft apples as the foundation for the recipe lends a well-balanced flavor and texture to the finished applesauce. The bonus benefit from making this recipe is your heavenly smelling home.
For a milder, more classic-tasting applesauce, replace the brown sugar with ¼ cup granulated sugar and 2 tablespoons honey. Decrease the quantity of spices, using only ⅛ teaspoon cinnamon, ⅛ teaspoon ginger, and just a pinch of cloves. For a smooth-textured applesauce, cook the apples longer, until easily mashed with a fork or the back of a spoon. Instead of a potato masher, use an immersion blender, food processor, or full-size blender to make the sauce smooth rather than chunky.
2 Granny Smith or other firm, tart apples, peeled and diced
2 Golden Delicious or other soft, sweet apples, peeled and diced
1 cup lightly packed light brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
Pinch of salt
In a medium saucepan, combine the apples, sugar, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, 2 tablespoons water, and the salt. Cover the pan and place over medium heat. Simmer the apple mixture until the apples release some liquid and the juices begin to simmer, 5 to 10 minutes. Uncover the pan and stir. Continue to cook, covered, until the apples have completely softened, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and mash with a potato masher or the back of a fork until the sauce ha
s a nice chunky texture. Transfer to a serving bowl. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
Fluffy Potato Latkes
Makes 8 or 9 latkes
These latkes epitomize the trend in modern Jewish deli cooking to rethink and update classic dishes. Instead of the traditional shredded Russet potatoes, this recipe relies on the golden-colored, creamy-textured Yukon Gold variety, which is finely chopped in the food processor, not shredded. And for those trying to avoid excess calories, cooking oil is used sparingly—just enough to coat the skillet. Although we love our traditional latkes, one of our testers summarized her sentiments succinctly: “These latkes are less greasy, they’re easier to make, and they taste better. And it was great not having to squeeze water out of the potatoes.” Give them a try and see what you think.
1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes
1½ medium (8 ounces) yellow or white onions, coarsely chopped
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
¼ cup vegetable oil, plus more for frying
Chunky Ginger Applesauce, for serving (optional)
Sour cream, for serving (optional)
Fill a large bowl with ice water. Peel and dice the potatoes, placing them in the ice water to keep them from discoloring. Place the onions in a food processor and pulse until finely minced. Transfer the onions to a fine-mesh strainer and press to remove as much liquid as possible. Set aside, over a bowl to allow further draining. Thoroughly drain the potatoes and place them in the food processor. Use long pulses to finely chop the potatoes, scraping down the sides of the work bowl as needed. The potatoes should be finely minced but not pureed.