A Time of Gifts

by Patrick Leigh Fermor

  Horace, 85–6; Ad Thaliarchum, 85

  Hungary, 190, 206, 222, 235–6, 249; equestrianism, 226–7; Great Plain, 222, 240; Porta Hungarica, 250; the author at the entrance, 274, 300, 307–8, 313–6; his recollections, 276 ff.; national feelings, 294–6; Holy Saturday, 306–16

  India, 6, 10, 127–8

  Jews and Jewish quarters, Brati-slava, 244–5, Prague, 269–70; Feast of Purim, 246–7; Hasidim sect, 298–9

  Karva, 299–300

  Kevelaer, 42

  King’s School, Canterbury, 11–4, 46, 123–6

  Kissujfalu, 290, 292

  Köbölkut, Maundy Thursday, 296–9

  Konrad, Frisian islander, and the author, 199–216 passim; saccha-rine smuggler, 212, 215, 304–5, 305n

  Kövecsespuszta, 276–91

  Krefeld, 45–7; a night in the workhouse, 46–7

  Krems, 169, 184, 187

  Lake Constance, 31, 65–6, 92

  Landsknechts, 97–101, 152, 228, 259

  Leopold, Duke of Austria, 185 and n

  Linz, 146, 193, 264

  Liphart-Ratshoff, Baron Rheinhard von, kindnesses to the author, 111–5, 135–9, 188

  Lipizza, 226 and n

  London, in the Thirties, 125–6, 129, 138

  Ludwigstorff family, 235

  Maas, the, 30–1

  Magyars, 235, 237, 238–42 passim, 295–6

  Maidling-im-Tal, 188

  Marcomanni, the, 167–8, 178, 180, 234

  Mäuseturm, legend of Archbishop Hatto, 61n

  Mauthausen, 157

  Maximilian of Bavaria, at battle of White Hill, 259n

  Melk Abbey, 172–7, 187

  Merwerde, the, 30

  Mitter Arnsdorf, a widow’s reminiscences, 182–4

  Moravia, 235, 240, 251, 253

  Morgenstern, Christian, 285 and n

  Morville, Hugo de, a murderer of Becket, 185–6n

  Moselle, the, 58

  Mount Ida, 85

  Mount Kedros, 5

  Mühlacker, 75

  Munich, 102–15; beer territory, 103–8; loss of a rucksack, 109–11, 111n

  Nagy-Magyar, an evening with the Burgomaster, 277–8; Gipsy women, 278–9

  Nazism, 45, 51, 129, 194, 284; National Socialism display, 38–9; SS troops, 103, 105; a fanatic, 70; in Austria, 193, 195–6

  Neckar, the, 66, 69, 71, 82

  Niebelungen landmarks, 107–8, 170, 177–8

  Nijmegen, 34, 35–6

  Noorwede, the, 30

  Nové Zamky, coffee house, 292–3

  Nuremberg, 149, 155

  Oberlahnstein, 60

  Palatinate, the, 93, 171, 259

  Palatine Anthology, 69n

  Parkan, 308

  Parry-Jones, Basset, 219, 225

  Perg, 157

  Persenbeug, 162

  Petronell, 234

  Pforzheim, 73, 75

  Pöchlarn, 170

  Poetry and Prose, author’s personal choice, 83–7

  Pozony, see Bratislava

  Prideaux, Denys Anstice, 15, 16, 19

  Prague, 149, 253 ff.; St. Vitus’s Cathedral, 255–6; Riders’ Steps, 256–7; Hall of Homage, 258; Landsknecht century, 259; libraries, 249; the Vltava, 263–4; astronomers, 267–8; Waldstein Palace, 268n

  Pressburg, see Bratislava

  Quadi, the, 167–8, 178, 180, 234

  Regensburg (Ratisbon), 149, 154, 163; Altdorfer’s birthplace, 154–6

  Rhine, the, 18; meanderings, 31; Skagerrak Bridge, 46, 47; upstream by barge, 50, 52–8; legend of St. Ursula, 53 and n; historical background, 56–7, 92; riparian vineyards and castles, 60–1; the Lorelei, 62; Christmas Day, 63; the author takes leave, 65–6

  Rhinelanders, 122, 132–3

  Richard Coeur de Lion, imprisonment, 185 and n, 186, 230

  Romilly, Esmond, 124

  Rosenheim, 115

  Rotterdam, 27–8

  Rüdesheim, 63

  Ruhr, the, 42–7

  Rumania, 275, 281

  Saint Boniface, 118–9

  St. Florian’s Abbey, 147–8, 154, 162; Grünewald’s altarpiece, 152–3, 153n, 154

  St. John Nepomuk, 184, 264

  St. Martin’s Castle, 113, 135–6

  SS. Cyril and Methodius, 296

  Salsham-le-Sallows, 8

  Salzburg, 134, 135, 137

  Salzach, the, 134

  Samorin, 276, 279

  Schaffhausen falls, 65–6

  Schey v. Koromla, Baron Philip, 274, 276, 301n; reads Proust, 280, 281, 288; character and appearance, 281–3; literary prototype, 282n; European and English reminiscences, 282–8; later life, 290–1

  Schirach, Baldur von, 38

  Schönbühel Schloss, 178

  Schweik, see Hasek

  Scott-Malden, Gilbert and Phyllis, 11

  Senec, 279

  Sered, 279

  Seredy, Mgr., 314

  Shakespeare, William, 118, 171–2, 200; The Winter’s Tale, 171–2, 200, 270, 272

  Sitwell family (Into High Germany) 84

  Slovakia, Slovaks, 237, 239–40; national complaints, 295–6; a flight of storks, 308–10

  Spain, horsemanship, 226–7

  Spengel, Herr and Frau, 67, 71; family, 67–71

  Spires, 65; Prince Bishops, 71

  Starhemberg, Prince, 217; Home Guard Militia, 144

  Steyr, Trout quintet, 168

  Stolzenfels, Gothic keep, 60

  Strasbourg, 55, 65

  Stuttgart, student hospitality, 75–82; dinner with a business family, 79–81

  Styria, 135, 159, 169, 232

  Švejk, see Hašek

  Swabia, 77, 82, 87–92, 100, 122, 150, 155; a walk in a snowstorm, 88–9; Habsburgs, 185–6n

  Switzerland, 65, 92; woodcarving, 123

  Talbot-Rice, David, 20

  Thirty Years’ War, 92–3, 100, 189, 254, 259, 262, 268n

  Thurn, Count, 258–9

  Tiel, 32, 34

  Toynbee, Philip, 124

  Tratzberg Schloss, 233n

  Traunstein, 134

  Turks, and Central Europe, 229, 238–9

  Tyrol, the, 96, 135, 148, 159, 169–70

  Ulm, 163, 187; the Danube sighted, 89–90; the Minster, 90, 94; battle honours, 94

  Ulrich von Zatzikhoven, 185–6n

  Var (Vah), the, log-traffic, 287–8, 300

  Vienna, 149, 163, 206–7, 285; a penniless approach, 192–4; armed demonstration, 193–4; Salvation Army refuge, 194, 197 ff.; the author sketches for money, 202–12; Habsburg citizens, 206 and n; hospitality, 217–9; Konsularakademie, 219; museum explorations, 222–3, 229; horsemanship, 224–7; Turkish attack, 229–31

  Vltava (Moldau), its course, 263–4

  Waal, the, 30, 31, 35

  Wachau, the, 177–8, 187, 237

  Wallenstein, Albrecht von, 268 and nn

  Wasserman, Jakob, Christian Wahnschaffe, 282n

  Watts, Alan, 12

  Wedgwood, Dame Veronica, The Thirty Years’ War, 268n

  Wellesz, Dr. Egon, Byzantine plainsong, 246

  Westphalia, 37, 38

  Wittelsbachs, 93, 122

  World War I, 43–5, 51; German attitude, 130, 131

  World War II, the author in Crete, 5, 86, 220–1

  Worms, 65

  Württemberg, 75, 94

  Ybbs, 168, 169, 256; Knight of, 166

  Yugoslavia, 236, 308

  Yuste, Hieronymite monastery, 228

  Zaltbommel, 31

  Ziegler, Hans, and family, harbour the author, 237, 245, 253, 270, 272–3

  Zuyder Zee, 35

  THIS IS A NEW YORK REVIEW BOOK

  PUBLISHED BY THE NEW YORK REVIEW OF BOOKS

  435 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014

  www.nyrb.com

  Copyright © 1977 by Patrick Leigh Fermor

  Introduction copyright © 2005 by Jan Morris

  All rights reserved.

  First published in the United Kingdom by John Murray Ltd.

  Cover painting: Pi
eter Brueghel the Elder, Hunters in the Snow (detail), 1565; Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna/Bridgeman Art Library

  Cover design: Katy Homans

  The Library of Congress has cataloged the earlier printing as follows:

  Fermor, Patrick Leigh.

  A time of gifts / by Patrick Leigh Fermor ; introduction by Jan Morris.

  p. cm. — (New York Review Books classics)

  Originally published: London : J. Murray, 1977.

  Includes index.

  ISBN 1-59017-165-9 (alk. paper)

  1. Europe—Description and travel. 2. Europe, Central—Description and travel.

  3. Fermor, Patrick Leigh. I. Title. II. Series.

  D923.F47 2005

  914’.0455—dc22

  2005011625

  eISBN 978-1-59017-517-0

  v1.0

  For a complete list of books in the NYRB Classics series, visit www.nyrb.com or write to:

  Catalog Requests, NYRB, 435 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014