Am I Boring My Dog

by Ph. d. Edie Jarolim

  10. YOU’VE MENTIONED PUPPY MILLS SEVERAL TIMES. HOW DO I AVOID THEM AND FIND A RESPONSIBLE BREEDER?

  As defined by the ASPCA, a puppy mill is any large-scale commercial breeding operation where profits are given a higher priority than the dogs’ well-being. Although they’ve only recently begun to get widespread and well-deserved censure, these mass puppy producers have been around since the 1960s, when the demand—fed by franchises that realized putting adorable doggies in the window was the best way to draw people in to buy pet supplies—began outstripping the supply. Today, about 5,000 such operations, many on farms in the Midwest and Pennsylvania formerly devoted to raising pigs and chickens supply many of America’s pet stores.7

  These stores and boutiques, which tend to be in upscale malls or posh neighborhoods, hide the (often literally) dirty secret of the origins of their cute customer magnets. Puppy mills or factories have been found crowding some 1,000 dogs into facilities that are at best sterile and devoid of opportunities for social contact but far more frequently unsanitary and cruel.

  But the puppies at least have to look healthy to be salable, although many have genetic defects based on bad breeding practices, not to mention diseases spread by overcrowding. The conditions under which the breeding mothers literally labor are far worse. Many of these dams, whom the public never sees, spend their entire lives in wire cages stacked one on top of the other, and left in cold, dark sheds. Because it costs more to secure the services of a vet than to get a new dog to push out puppies, sick mothers are often left to starve to death when they outlive their usefulness. Sometimes this occurs even when the dogs aren’t sick but when a particular breed goes out of fashion.

  Feeling upset enough yet? Here’s more: Most of these doggie gulags are completely legal. They operate under the same USDA regulations applied to farm animals slated to be killed and consumed—except that, when the livestock consists of puppies, even fewer inspectors are assigned to ensure that conditions are even minimally humane.

  Pet stores aren’t the only places that purvey canine unfortunates. 8 Beware of ads in local giveaway papers and vendors hawking “purebred” puppies on street corners. True, the Penny Saver advertisers and sidewalk hawkers may only be backyard breeders—as amateurs looking to make a buck off their best friends are known—as opposed to puppy mill operators trying to get around the bad press and lemon laws associated with selling their wares through pet stores. But in neither case do you get a guarantee of the health or temperament of the dogs being sold, nor verifiable information on the conditions under which they’ve been raised.

  These days, the Internet is a major source of mass-produced puppies. Shady dog vendors keep few records, but it’s a good bet that virtual sales are catching up with, if not outpacing, brick-and-mortar transactions. You’d be surprised how many people are taken in by slick-looking websites, sending money for long-distance pets without even requesting references. I’m not sure which is worse—actually receiving a puppy mill graduate who might be seriously ill and break your heart as well as your bank account, or wiring money to Nigeria and getting no dog at all.

  Which brings me to the question of how to find a reputable breeder. Because one of the things that makes breeders reputable is their focus on one or, at the most, two breeds—thus allowing them to acquire in-depth knowledge of everything from standard appearance and temperament to health problems—you first need to decide on the breed you’re interested in. In addition, attending local dog shows and agility trials sanctioned by the American Kennel Club or the United Kennel Club is a good way to check out different types of dogs in action and to meet breeders. However, these shows—which are not held in every town—don’t give you the chance to make the acquaintance of less peppy and performance-oriented pups.

  After you decide on a breed, seek referrals through friends, veterinarians, groomers, and through the AKC or UKC; these last two groups offer comprehensive lists of good breeders throughout the United States. Make sure to look for someone within easy visiting distance, because no matter how much you trust a referral, you’ll want to check out a breeder’s premises personally.9

  When you’ve found some promising possibilities, let the scrutiny begin.

  PHASE 1: WEEDING OUT THE SEEDY BREEDERS

  Before making a trip to visit the premises, ask the following questions.

  Do you always have puppies available?

  This is a trick question. An affirmative answer suggests that mama dog is kept bare-pawed and pregnant more frequently than is good for her health. Once-a-year breeding is ideal; more than twice borders on abuse. Good breeders keep a list of interested buyers to contact when the next litter is available.

  A corollary of this question is “How soon after he’s born can I get the puppy?” Be suspicious of any breeder willing to separate a puppy from dam and siblings before eight weeks at a minimum.

  Will I be able to meet the parents of my puppy so I can get a sense of the offspring’s appearance and temperament?

  There’s no reason you shouldn’t be able to make the mother’s acquaintance. If the father can’t be present—and you’re within your rights to ask why not—request to see documents proving that poppa has been registered with the AKC or UKC. (Beware of someone who says that they’ve got documentation from, say, the Siberian Kennel Club—even if you’re looking at Siberian Huskies.)

  Can you provide references from a local vet and from families who have purchased puppies from you?

  Be sure to follow up with them all if for no other reason than that it’s fun to chat with fellow admirers of the breed to hear about the joys—and travails—of bringing up the pups.

  What potential health problems is the breed subject to?

  This is another trick question. If the breeder answers “none,” that’s a sign of either ignorance or dishonesty. All breeds are predisposed toward certain health problems; good breeders work diligently to avoid them. You need to know how severe any inherited condition might be and—more important—whether a puppy from a litter you’re contemplating has in fact inherited it.

  If you decide to get a puppy from a breeder, it’s completely kosher to request documentation from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (www.offa.org)—an organization devoted to reducing the incidence of a wide range of genetic diseases—that the parents and grandparents have been tested and shown to be defect free.

  PHASE 2: PEERING AROUND THE PREMISES

  Assuming a breeder has passed these preliminary pup quizzes, it’s time to head out to see how the dogs are kept. If a breeder has a problem with your visiting when no puppies are available, then you have a problem with the breeder.

  Look for the following.

  Do the dogs you encounter seem healthy, upbeat, and friendly toward strangers?

  If they slink off or bark frantically, you might consider slinking off, too.

  Where do the dogs stay? Are they allowed indoors and kept in clean, well-maintained areas, or are they confined in smelly outdoor pens? Do they have sufficient room for exercise?

  Or, in short, is this a place you wouldn’t wish on a dog.

  Does the breeder use harsh methods to make the dogs behave?

  A well-behaved dog doesn’t necessarily mean a happy dog, just one that’s toed the line. I have no idea if stress hormones have an impact on the development of puppies (though why wouldn’t they?); I just wouldn’t want to buy a dog from a mean breeder.

  PHASE 3: GETTING TO KNOW ME

  A breeder should be interested in you, too, not just in your money.

  Some signs that the well-being of the dog is foremost to the breeder:

  Multiple, relaxed visits are encouraged with your entire family.

  You’re asked why you want a dog and who in the family will be responsible for her daily care.

  You’re required to provide proof from your landlord or co-op board that you’re allowed to have a dog (if you live in a building like the one where I used to live in Manhattan, you should be as
ked for verification that the puppy has personally passed muster with the co-op board).

  If you already have another dog, you’re asked for references from a vet.

  PHASE 4: ASSESSING THE LITTER

  This is perhaps the toughest phase because actually viewing puppies is bound to cloud your ability to think clearly. Nevertheless, try not to be swayed by their overwhelming cuteness and consider the following.

  Are the puppies kept with their mothers and siblings—and encouraged to interact with humans, too?

  Duking it out for position with other dogs, being handled by humans, and being introduced to a variety of stimuli—all part of the process known as socialization—are essential to a well-balanced dog.

  PHASE 5: BRINGING HOME BABY

  When you’re ready to take your new puppy home you should expect …

  A written contract that you will return the dog if you can’t keep her (see question 14). Unless you get a show-quality dog, the contract is likely to include an agreement that you will spay or neuter him.

  Records of veterinary visits for the puppy, a detailed explanation of her medical history, and a clear list of what vaccinations she will need and when.

  Assurances that advice on the care and feeding of your new friend will be available when you need it.

  No, a breeder isn’t required to be on call at all hours like a pediatrician, but one who cares about dogs will want to help you succeed in your new responsibilities, which can be overwhelming initially.

  11. WHAT ABOUT MIXED BREEDS—AREN’T THE PROBLEMS OF FINDING THE RIGHT DOG COMPOUNDED WHEN YOU RESCUE A MUTT?

  Quite the opposite. All but the most reputable breeders are solely in the dog business for the money, whereas shelters and rescue organizations (see the following question) are in it for the love—which means that their only motive is to ensure that their charges find good homes. As a result, most do their best to assess each animal’s temperament before sending them off to be adopted; many offer adoption counseling. And with mixed breeds, you have the added advantage of being free from preconceptions, so the pup’s actual personality isn’t obscured by breed stereotypes.

  Evaluating dogs and their potential guardians—on an individual basis—is the premise of the excellent Meet Your Match (MYM) program being introduced into more and more shelters, with the goal of determining whether you and a particular dog are suited for one another. A kind of interspecies Match.com, MYM evaluates the dogs’ behavior, then categorizes them by character traits like “wallflower,” “free spirit,” or “teacher’s pet.” A potential adopter fills out a short form that serves as a canine personality wish list—and voilà, a love connection that’s based on more than just looks. Developed by Emily Weiss, DVM, and sanctioned by the ASPCA, this program has greatly increased adoptions in the shelters that have used it—and cut back on returns.

  Sadly, not all shelters have the funding and the staff to institute these types of programs or even to do detailed evaluations. In these cases, an excellent alternative is to hire your own matchmaker: a trainer. Good trainers (see Chapter 6 for advice on finding them) are especially well equipped for the task because they work with difficult-to-handle humans on a regular basis. Thus they are capable of not only assessing the temperament of dogs at the pound but also of talking potential adopters down from emotional reactions such as “he’s so sweet” or “she’d make such a good hiking companion” if the dog that elicits it doesn’t fit their lifestyle (or apartment).

  Then there’s the dumb luck factor. Full disclosure: Faced with appealing photographs and persuasive dog rescuers, my best (human) friend Clare and I eschewed the painstaking research I’m advocating here and took the blind emotional route. And we couldn’t be crazier about our furry gentlemen friends, Archie and Frankie.

  12. ARE THERE DIFFERENT TYPES OF SHELTERS—AND DOES IT MATTER WHICH ONE I VISIT TO FIND A DOG?

  Sometimes called “pounds” because they once housed only impounded animals, shelters vary in everything from their admission and euthanization policies,10 medical services, and outreach programs to the size and cleanliness of their facilities. No centralized agency exists to set guidelines or even to collect data about them. Strange but true: shelters with names that include “SPCA” or “Humane Society” have no affiliation with the Humane Society of the United States or with the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. The ASPCA does operate one shelter, in Manhattan, but it and the HSUS are primarily educational organizations, not governing or funding bodies.

  The care of homeless or displaced dogs falls to three basic types of organizations.

  MUNICIPAL SHELTERS

  These are government-owned and -operated and thus funded by state, county, city, or township tax dollars. They typically come under the aegis of health care or law enforcement departments. Historically created to protect people from animals, they often do the opposite these days. If, for example, they’re supervised by law enforcement, police officers may bring in dogs that have been abused—as well as those who’ve bitten neighborhood children (often one and the same pup). You can generally recognize municipal shelters by such utilitarian phrases in their names as “Animal Control” or “Animal Service.”

  PRIVATE NONPROFIT SHELTERS

  The only thing that these shelters have in common is that they’re designed to protect animals from people—or from the elements—and that they don’t make money by doing so. They may get some funding from municipal contracts or may operate solely on the basis of private donations, large and small.

  RESCUE GROUPS

  These informal, privately funded organizations work with both municipal and private shelters, as well as with individuals who surrender their dogs. They may have a physical facility but more typically they keep the dogs they save from euthanization in foster homes or kennels.11 Many focus on a single breed and may therefore operate under the auspices of a breed club. However, because the goal of most rescue groups is to find good homes for as many dogs as possible, they aren’t always terribly strict about their categorizations.

  For example, Frankie’s rescuer, Rebecca, was affiliated with Arizona Mini-Schnauzer Rescue. Although Frankie shows no signs of Schnauzer—mini or maxi—parentage, Rebecca fostered him anyway because she’s kind-hearted and Arizona Cute Fuzzy Dogs of Indeterminate Origin Rescue doesn’t exist. I shudder to think that Frankie might have been executed because of breed profiling—or lack thereof.

  All this may matter little to you as a potential adopter, especially if you find your dog through the Internet—where shelters and rescue groups post their resident pups on sites such as Petfinder.com—and you only go to the shelter to retrieve her. But if you’re doing a search in person, it’s useful to know a shelter’s euthanization policy. You may not be comfortable going to a place where you’ll need to make a quick adoption decision—or, on the other hand, you may want to have urgency imposed because you’re a ditherer. And if you discover that your local shelter doesn’t have the resources to do temperament evaluations, you’ll know that you need to bring an expert along.

  But the dogs are equally worthy at every facility. And after you’ve settled in with your pound pup, you can decide at leisure which shelter or rescue group deserves your donations and/or can best benefit from your volunteer efforts.

  13. IF RESCUING A DOG IS A GOOD DEED, WHY DO I HAVE TO PAY A FEE AND HAVE SOMEONE INSPECT MY PLACE?

  To prove that you’re not going to use your new pal as bait in a dog-fighting ring. Many people give away dogs with the best of intentions—and the best of results. But pups offered gratis to complete strangers too often end up in bad situations.

  And if you can’t find the money to make the (generally) required contribution to a shelter, then you probably can’t afford to feed and care for a dog, either. Fees are usually considerably less than they would be for the same exam and neutering/spaying procedure done privately because many vets volunteer their services at local shelters. You’re unlikely to have t
o come up with more than $200 initially.

  Not all rescue groups have time to do home inspections, but many require them, so don’t get insulted if someone wants to come check out your house. And don’t worry. The nice folks at the shelter want to make sure that your adoptee is not going to escape through that big hole in your fence and find himself homeless again. They are not, as I had assumed, judging your décor, your cleaning skills, or your domestic arrangements (unless these include living with two dozen cats—or children—and/or with a burly rifle-wielding person). While I waited for my dog’s rescuer to come over to evaluate the suitability of my house, I fretted that she would think it wasn’t tidy enough. If you want proof that I knew next to nothing about dog rescue before I got Frankie, there you have it in a nutshell.

  That said, rescuers and fosterers have been known to make unreasonable demands on potential pet owners for a variety of reasons that all boil down to “bad human, bad human!” If you like a dog and are uncertain of the appropriateness of an inspector’s requirements, call the organization you’re working with and ask for clarification.

  14. WHAT IF I GET A DOG WHO DOESN’T LIKE ME?

  This question will only seem odd to people who have had a chance to get acquainted with their new pals before bringing them home. If, as I did, you fall for a picture that a dog rescuer e-mails you, it’s not an altogether irrational concern.

  Rebecca, the aforementioned dog rescuer and fosterer, had told me that Frankie was sweet natured, which was true. Not having had the opportunity to observe his behavior long-term, however, she couldn’t know that he was a one-person pup, a canine serial monogamist. During the tour of my house, Frankie shadowed Saint Rebecca, avoiding me like