Am I Boring My Dog

by Ph. d. Edie Jarolim

  Amenities

  As I mentioned earlier, you’ll often find a dog bed (everything from a large pillow to the snug form-fitting kind) in your hotel room. Dog bowls and mats are usually provided, too. The beds are generally yours for a price; the bowls may or may not be intended for transport; and anything personalized—usually just mats—is unambiguously yours. When in doubt, ask, lest you find a surprise on your credit card tab.

  Always yours to take home are the goodie bags you’re likely to receive. Frankie has been gifted with everything from a dog-sized backpack—replete with foldable bowls for the hiking trail (Frankie said no thanks, I’m not a Sherpa)—and squeaky toys to a DVD of My Dog Skip. Biscuits from a local dog bakery are frequently included92 and, almost invariably, small plastic bags. I’m happy to have them; I just don’t like the fact that these not-so-subtle hints that you’re expected to clean up after your pup are labeled luxury amenities.93 Moreover, sometimes they’re pink and scented, which doubly offends me, because Frankie is male and his poop doesn’t stink.

  Room service

  Various combinations of meat, fish, brown rice, eggs, and veggies labeled with clever, dog-related names are often available to be delivered to your door. Usually the meat is ground beef or grilled chicken, but some places, such as the Peninsula Beverly Hills, highlight such items as “Spot’s New York Strip, a juicy 8 oz. grilled steak served sliced and garnished with baby carrots ($19).” I have been known to order food “for Frankie” and eat most of it. Hey, Frankie can’t down a half-pound steak, and I’m not going to find one on a human room service menu for less than 20 bucks.

  Some hotels also offer “premium” brand dog foods that would never pass Frankie’s lips. I suggest you BYOK (bring your own kibble) if your pooch is accustomed to dining on pellets.

  Activities

  Just because your dog is on vacation doesn’t mean she can’t get an education. At the Mandarin Oriental in Miami, for example, you can get a certified dog trainer to work with you (and your dog) on correcting behavior issues. Group classes are also offered at several places.

  Want to mingle with other dogs and their traveling companions? Yappy hours such as the one at the Hotel Monaco Alexandra let pups and their people meet and greet with species-appropriate beverages and snacks.

  Spa/grooming services

  Not only are many hotels teaming up with grooming businesses for pup primping; some even offer in-room94 spa services such as massages.

  Frankie was treated to a massage at the Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort near Phoenix. He initially went along with the program, albeit reluctantly, allowing his little limbs to be stretched and his flank to be kneaded, but he refused to turn over to let the massage therapist work on the other side. I don’t think he’s likely to recommend the treatment to his pup pals.

  Assorted

  My two favorite perks don’t involve pampering, just simple but inspired concepts. At the Kimpton Hotels—the one I visited was FireSky in Scottsdale—your dog’s name is posted on a chalkboard at the property entryway. Imagine how proud Frankie felt to see his name prominently displayed every time we came in!

  And if you check into the Fairmont Washington, D.C., with a dog (or, to be fair, a cat), the hotel will donate 5 percent of the room rate to the Washington Animal Rescue League. It’s too bad only dogs smaller than 20 pounds are permitted, thus limiting the largesse, but it’s still a terrific reminder that dogs don’t need massages and pedicures; they just need a good home.

  ALL DOG, ALL THE TIME

  Want to optimize the time spent with your dog and vacation with other people who are equally canine crazy? Consider a retreat where dog attendance is obligatory. These getaways, with names such as Camp Gone to the Dogs, Paws and Pals, Camp Barking Hills, or Camp Winnaribbun, may offer dorm rooms or rustic cabins where both you and your dog bunk; in some cases, nearby accommodations are arranged. Activities might include agility trials, swimming lessons, lectures on dog communication … even instructions in dog-hair spinning. Typically, these camps are limited—perhaps two weeklong sessions a year or selected weekends. For a full listing with details, see www.dogplay.com/Activities/camps.html.

  Note: Not all dogs are happy campers. Think carefully about whether your dog would be well-suited for a lot of social activity.

  84. WHERE’S THE BEST PLACE TO LEAVE MY DOG IF I CAN’T TAKE HIM WITH ME?

  If you have family or friends who are willing to take your dog in, and a dog who’s willing to stay with them, you’ve got it made. Not only do you get free dogsitting, but anyone who agrees to care for your pup is probably close enough to you (or owes you enough) to put up with you calling several times a day and asking to put your pooch on the phone. Don’t forget to bring back gifts for the caretakers as well as for your dog.

  Similarly, if you’ve successfully arranged play dates through dog networks, a longer vacation exchange might be worth trying. And most doggie daycare centers offer overnight boarding. See question 76 for details about both.

  But there are dogs—and, yes, I’m talking about Frankie again—who don’t like to leave home. They’re stressed enough that you’re going away; mess with their lives any more and they’re over the top. This is where dogsitters come in.

  You’ll find them the same way as you’ll find doggie daycare centers and dog walkers: referrals from friends, dog park acquaintances, vets, organizations such as The Pet Sitting Directory (www.petsittingdirectory.com) or the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (www.petsitters.org), and … well, you never know. I found one great dogsitter through a local chef that I’m friendly with. He’d asked me where I’d been traveling lately, and when I told him I hadn’t really gone anywhere since Frankie was diagnosed with diabetes, he suggested I try Linda, his former pastry chef, who had started a dog-sitting business. I tend to trust people who know how to make desserts (and are insured and bonded). Sure enough, Linda was terrific with Frankie and his shots.

  When Linda wasn’t available, I called my vet’s office and discovered that Sarah, one of the receptionists, had just started a dog-sitting business. Frankie was fond of her, and Sarah had the three vets in the practice on speed dial. What more could you ask for? Oh yes, communication: both Linda and Sarah e-mailed me with a Frankie status report at least once a day, often more.

  In a typical arrangement, the dogsitter will stay overnight and feed and walk your dog in the morning and evening. Unless you pay extra for the sitter to check in, your dog is generally on her own during the day. Again, fees range by location—and expertise. I used to pay $25 for a college student to hang out with Frankie but when insulin shots got involved, the rates rose (I’ve paid from $40 to $65). Expect prices to go up commensurately in major metropolitan areas, but resist offers to exchange a stay in your conveniently located Manhattan or San Francisco apartment for free dog care—unless, of course, the offerer falls into the trusted family or friends category. Your pup might not get the attention she deserves from a sitter looking to enjoy a slice of big city life.

  CHAPTER 9

  BETTER DOG HOMES AND GARDENS

  85. IS IT OKAY TO LEAVE MY DOG OUTDOORS WHEN I’M NOT HOME?

  If you don’t live in an apartment building;95 if you have a secure yard; if the weather isn’t too hot or too cold; and if your dog has a shelter to duck into—maybe. But you need to consider other, less predictable, factors. For example, in the desert Southwest, it wouldn’t be wise to leave a small dog vulnerable all day to attack by a territorial bird of prey.96

  A day outdoors should provide fresh air, visual stimulation, and unlimited bathroom access for your dog. It should not be designed to keep him from destroying the house—that’s what training and the suggestions in the following question are for—or as a form of punishment. Nor should the outdoors be associated with social isolation. If you don’t have a dog door, let your pup in the house as soon as you come home—or, at least, right after you go to the bathroom. (Dogs either stare at you with intense interest whi
le you go, or hold vigil outside if you close the door to what they clearly believe is a tele-transporter, hurtling you to another dimension.)

  The following are some preconditions for better outdoor dog living.

  SECURE YARD

  By this I mean a yard that has a barrier that can’t be breached by other animals (including humans)—generally, a fence with a locked gate. Opacity is desirable, too. An attractive dog like Frankie might prove extremely tempting to thieves, for example, while large, scary looking breeds inspire some macho idiots—you know, the ones who tease tigers in the zoo—to annoy these captive pups.

  Decidedly not included in the secure category—by virtue of both visibility and of cruelty—is a yard guarded by an electric fence. Electric fences leave your dog open to outside harassment, including by malevolent squirrels, who can scamper in and out at will. These fences are also counterproductive. If your dog runs away—and why wouldn’t he want to?—it’s unlikely he would want to risk another shock by coming back in. (Yes, electric fence varieties exist that give your dog a “correction” until he returns to the perimeter—but that doesn’t resolve such issues as squirrel harassment.)

  On the other end of the security spectrum are tall masonry or brick walls—a dream for keeping your dog safe while he plays outdoors. Zoning and economics might dictate your use of other materials to build a barrier, however, as might your dog’s natural drives. Consider the following behaviors when deciding on exactly how to secure your yard.

  Chewing

  An oral fixation could rule out wooden fencing; many dogs find tree-based products very tasty. You don’t want your pooch to chew through slats and get a mouthful of splinters. The good news: dogs often outgrow an inclination toward dental entertainment, and you may eventually be able to install more attractive fencing.

  Digging

  I’ll go into more detail about digging in question 89, but if you live with a serious burrower, fortify the fence line with cement blocks or large rocks, or dig a narrow trench and fill it with concrete. Alternatively, sink chicken wire into the ground about 6 to 12 inches deep, curving it in 2 or 3 feet toward the yard. Make sure to roll up the sharp edges so your dog doesn’t injure herself.

  Leaping

  For the garden variety, as it were, fence jumper, regular precautions might suffice. Avoid leaving anything near the fence that your dog could use as a launch pad—patio table, garbage can, barbecue … even piles of snow could give your pup an extra leg up. For Olympic-level vaulters, add height to the fence and tilt it inward with angled steel extensions, perhaps strung with fence fabric (but nothing that could trap your dog’s paw or collar).

  Another option is to plant shrubbery—or install a barrier that your dog can’t impale himself on—at a distance designed to thwart a running start.

  Note: If it’s too expensive for you to go the whole fence route and/or your dog is a serious escape artist, consider a smaller—but large enough to roam in and use as a bathroom—enclosure, built adjacent to the house and in conjunction with a dog door (see the following section).

  GIVE THEM SHELTER

  Doghouses were once modest structures, intended only for basic protection against the elements—thus their reputation as retreats of last resort for the human badly behaved. Now they’ve gone from crude shelter to shelter magazine. Some architects advertise their design skills with elaborate dog homes; magazines from This Old House to Woman’s Day have featured canine-sized renditions of classic American styles.

  Can’t afford a custom-built replica of your abode? No worries. You can still cater to your dog’s comfort and your aesthetic sense with (theoretically) easy-to-construct models. Styles listed on DogHouse.com, for example, range from the Arctic-themed Dogloo ($120) to the porch-fronted Swiss chalet ($387)—not to mention the 8-foot-tall Victorian-style cottage that doubles as a kennel ($5,800).

  Consider the following when buying a doghouse.

  Size

  Get a house large enough for your dog to fit his entire body into, but not so large as to be drafty. (If your pup is a social animal, you can get a duplex.) DogHouse.com offers tips on how to choose the correct size—for example, the door height opening should be no less than three fourths of the dog’s shoulder-to-ground measurement.

  Suitability

  Plastic and wood are the most common doghouse materials; metal may be an option, too. Take the weather conditions in your region into account when you decide which to choose. Wood is probably a bad idea in a wet or snow-bound area, for example, although a pitched roof can help offset precipitation issues.

  Placement

  Again, consider geography. If you live in the Midwest, say, you don’t want the opening of the doghouse to face the wind during the coldest time of year. In the Southwest, you need to avoid the midday sun in summer.

  Insulation/protection

  You may not have the wherewithal to install central heating or A/C in your dog’s daytime quarters, but insulation is essential where temperatures are extreme.97 Some pricey models have built-in protection, and off-center doors help keep the wind and rain from reaching your pup. Hanging strips of plastic over the doghouse door also helps ward off the elements, and putting a blanket, heated pad, or even straw on the floor keeps your dog toasty.

  Amenities

  Especially if he doesn’t have access to your house while you’re gone, your pup needs a supply of fresh water in his doghouse. Nix the food, however, except in toys that make it difficult to get to. Comestibles—remember Chapter 4?—may attract the bad company noted in the next section.

  Cleanliness

  No, a doghouse doesn’t have to pass the white glove test, but you’d be surprised at the company your dog may be keeping if you’re not vigilant: pack rats, bees, and other undesirables. Plastic houses are generally the easiest to clean, but some wood ones come with removable roofs. Consider, too, a raised panel floor: it keeps the air flowing and the debris under the house, not in it.

  ENTRY AND EXIT STRATEGIES

  Call it providence or serendipity. Before I got Frankie, I bought a home that caters to a small dog’s comings and goings.98 The sliding-glass doors on the side of my house are fronted by wrought-iron security bars that are a Frankie-size distance from one another. Tucson’s warm weather and general nonbugginess allows me to leave the glass doors open without a screen much of the year; when I’m home, Frankie can exit and reenter without asking permission.

  Installing a dog door typically requires you to cut a hole in a standard door or wall. Most door models come in three standard sizes, and of course you can pay extra to get something tailored to your pup’s proportions. The larger the door, the more of a temperature control and security issue99 it poses.

  Perhaps the biggest decision you’ll need to make regards the operation of the door: manual or automatic/electronic.

  Manual

  Generally consisting of flaps that your dog can walk through at will, manual doors used to be simple and inexpensive but

  Automatic/electronic100

  The premise is the same for all varieties: your dog wears a special collar that allows him—and only him, as opposed to the random raccoon—to unlock the door, which then shuts behind him automatically. These doors vary in the type of technology they employ—from magnetic to battery-powered infrared and radio-frequency—as well as in style. Some resemble traditional flap doors; others glide up and down.

  I applaud the dog empowerment concept and the added security these doors afford but they’re costly to install and repair. And I don’t entirely trust the technology. I once put in a battery-operated doorbell that went off constantly and indiscriminately, generally in the middle of the night, whenever … well, I’m not sure what set the bell off—police radar? Garage door openers? When it comes to a door dropping down on your dog or locking him out of the house, we’re talking about more than just an annoyance.

  86. DOES MY HOUSE HAVE TO GO TO THE DOGS, OR ARE THERE WAYS TO KEEP IT LOOKING NICE?
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br />   Loving your dog and wanting lovely digs are by no means mutually exclusive. It’s often just a question of stepping up the training and making a few inexpensive décor changes. But if you want to redecorate with your pup in mind, you don’t have to sacrifice style to avoid permanent slobber stains.

  Note: Dogs are notoriously bad at wiping their feet when they enter the house. Keep an old towel by the door and head your dog off at the pass before she has a chance to bring the outdoors in—in a bad way.

  FLOORING

  Tile is a no-brainer for the canine inclined, the harder and the more impervious to scratches the better; unlike carpeting, tile repels hair and odors, and is simple to clean. Wood floors are also dog-durable, although larger pooches can scratch the softer varieties; these may require a factory finish laminate—and a strict nail-trimming regimen—to maintain their good looks. Linoleum, which is tough, inexpensive, and environment friendly,101 has made a comeback, so don’t rule it out because you’re picturing the colors and patterns of an ancient relative’s kitchen.

  Because much of this flooring tends to be slippery and dogs don’t have good skid control, and because hard surfaces are tough on arthritic dog hips, area rugs with nonslip pads make a good safety—as well as décor—complement. For hiding, as well as repelling, dirt and stains, think dense, cut-pile wool or high-grade nylon in midrange colors. Patterns are your friends, too. Hemp, sisal, or seagrass weaves provide cover for light-haired shedders.