Puer Tea
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Zou Jiaju. 2004. Man Hua Puer Cha (Casual talk about Puer tea). Kunming: Yunnan Minzu Chubanshe.
———. 2005. Man Hua Puer Cha: Jingetiema Da Ye Cha (Casual talk about Puer tea: large-leaf tea during wars). Kunming: Yunnan Meishu Chubanshe.
INDEX
“aged appeal” (chen yun), 86
aged artificially fermented Puer tea, 13
aged Puer tea (lao sheng cha), 20, 34–36, 39–42, 138–40, 143–44, 144f, 190; acquired taste for, 138–41; cult status, 51; history, 54; length of aging, 12, 20, 86, 143, 144f, 161, 182–83, 197, 206; overview, 206; price, 12, 35, 61–65; vs. raw tea, 54, 138, 140–41, 184, 197; at Sanzui tea-tasting event, 161, 165–69; “warmth,” 97, 182, 183
Aged Red Mark (Hong Yin) Puer tea, 35f
aged tea, 6; length of aging, 6, 7. See also aged Puer tea
Ancient Tea-Horse Road (Cha Ma Gu Dao), 93–97, 99. See also Tea-Horse Road
Ancient Tea-Horse Road (TV series), 95
artificially fermented tea (shu cha or shu pu), 6, 12–13, 27, 45, 91, 206; brew of, 7f; invention, 44–45
auctions, Puer tea, 100
authentic tea, search for, 133, 162, 163, 165
“Authentic Tea” (film segment), 203
“authentic tea mountain Yiwu,” 33, 35
Authentic Tea Mountain Yiwu Limited Company, 57
authenticity: an alternative, 197–204; handcrafted, 29–30; and imagined originality, 53–54; of maocha, assessing the, 66–70. See also under tea material; Yiwu
authenticity anxiety, commercialization, and Chinese individualism, 75–77
Bingsheng, Huang, 116
black tea (hong cha), 12
“blank version” (bai ban) tea, 151, 152f, 157
blood pressure, Puer tea as remedy for lowering, 6, 98
blue-green tea (qing cha), 12
bowls, tea, 138–40, 167, 176f
broadcasting teahouses, 192
Burma, 44, 92
caked tea/tea cake (bing cha or yuan cha), 5, 6, 34–38, 45, 102f, 157f, 169, 182f, 187f; character in center of, 107f; handcrafted, 45, 147, 200; pressing, 36, 37, 43, 44f, 147; price, 12, 35, 42, 87; production/processing, 6, 36, 41–43, 44f, 45, 53, 57, 73, 138, 147; shaped by stone press, 43, 44f; Taiwan and, 42–43; weight, 108; Zhang Yi and, 200. See also Golden Melon Tribute tea, 37
Camellia sinensis assamica (“large-leaf tea”), 11, 12, 88–92
Camellia sinensis sinensis (“small-leaf tea”), 11, 88, 91
caravans, tea, 93–97
Central Tea Company of the Republic of China, 44
Chen Jie, 92
Chen Pingyuan, 161
Cheshun Hao, entrance to, 39f
China: transformation and the desire to balance, 16–23. See also specific topics
China Tea Yellow Seal (Zhongcha Huang Yin), 169
Chinese philosophies, traditional, 46, 117. See also Confucianism; Daoism
“coldness” of raw Puer tea, 182–84, 218n4
compressed tea (jin cha), 206
Confucianism, 109, 117, 119, 145
consumption revolution, 20
counterfeits, Puer tea, 7, 9, 33, 35, 75–77, 117. See also fake Puer tea
“crazy Puer tea,” 101
Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon (film), 26
cultural capital, 162, 171
Cultural Revolution, 127, 193
Daoism, 46, 117, 119, 145
Deng Shihai, 97–98
Di, Professor, 116–17
Dian Qing (Yunnan sun-dried green tea), 189
“digitizing Puer tea,” 118
Ding village, 70, 72
drying, 208
Dynamic Yunnan (play), 94–95
earthquakes, two, 110–13
eating. See food
economic reform. See Reform
Eddie (friend of Zhang), 33–35
fake Puer tea, 23, 27, 33, 89, 92, 104, 112, 200, 202. See also counterfeits
fan, 186; history, 187–88; meanings and uses of the term, 186, 187, 189; vs. mi, 186–90; tea transformed from mi to, 187–88
Fan, Mrs., 166, 167, 169, 170, 172, 177
Fangcun Tea Market, 65, 101, 108, 110–11
Farquhar, Judith, 216n2
fermentation, 186, 205–6, 209; definition and nature of, 11; in tea leaves, deactivating (see “killing the green”). See also artificially fermented tea; postfermentation
film and alternative narratives, 202–4
fine processing, 56, 67, 208
food: attitudes toward and symbolic meanings of, 16–17, 21–22; vs. tea, 130–33. See also specific foods
forest tea (da shu cha), 67–68, 68f, 197, 201; Mr. Wen and, 67, 70, 71; overview, 6; pollarded (vs. nonpollarded), 128, 129f, 133–37, 201; price, 7, 67, 68, 123, 133–35, 134f, 139, 198; supply and demand, 198; vs. terrace tea, 6–7, 67–69, 116, 128, 128f, 133–39, 151, 198
Gao, Mr., 63, 64
Gao, Mrs., 203–4
Gao Fachang, 153–58
Gaoshan, 70
gift, tea given as a, 5, 18, 147, 193
gift economy, 29
gift exchange, 29
globalization, 180, 196
Golden Melon Tribute tea (jin gua gong cha), 38, 83, 84, 101
government and Puer tea, 81, 115. See also specific topics
government regulations, 117–18. See also Quality Safety (QS) Standard and certification system
greasy food and tea consumption, 14, 22, 33, 39, 40, 93, 132
Great Leap Forward, 127
Green Lake Park, 191, 193
green tea, Puer, 184–90, 185f; techniques of fermentation and, 11
Guan, Mr., 124, 126–27, 134
Guangdong, 182–84, 188; supply of and demand for Puer tea in, 65, 111, 115, 175
Guangdong traders, 40, 48, 62
Guangzhou, 108. See also Fangcun Tea Market
Han Chinese, 11, 37, 42, 70, 135–37, 212n2, 213n7
handcrafted authenticity, 29–30
handcrafted caked tea, 147, 200
handcrafted tea, 76; U.S. consumer demand for, 67
handcrafting Puer tea, technique of, 46; makes tea cake “loose” enough for natural fermentation, 45; vs. mechanical processing, 45, 54, 76; revived by Zhang Yi in mid-1990s, 36, 200; in Yiwu, 44, 47, 48, 51, 54
harvesting/picking, 206–7; bloom at a high price, 61–66
He, Hongping (Mrs. He's daughter), 148
He, Mr., 58, 60, 73, 146–50
He, Mrs., 148
He San (Mr. He's son), 147, 148
Hong Kong, 14, 41, 187, 188; history, 41; Jinghong Zhang's visits to, 9, 33, 34, 36, 38, 179; Puer tea consumption, 33, 40, 175, 179, 187, 189, 191–92; storage/stockpiling of Puer tea in, 33, 40, 48, 139, 171, 182, 183, 186; tea markets and shops in, 191. See also Zongming
Hongtu Lantian (web name), 181–85, 187, 190–92, 195
household tea unit (chazhung), 44. See also tea factory(ies)
Hu, Mr., 136, 137
Hu Ba (Mr. Hu's son), 136, 137, 150–51, 153
Hu San (Mr. Hu's son), 136, 137
hua (transformation), 145–46
Huang, Mr., 169
huyou, 165, 171; against, 165, 202
hypertension, Puer tea as remedy for, 6, 98
identity, food and, 17
individualism, Chinese, 214n10; authenticity anxiety, commercialization, and, 75–77
Iron Goddess of Mercy (Tieguanyin), 65, 97
Ivy, Marilyn, 73
Jian (trader from Jiangxi), 48
jianghu, 177; hua (transformation) and, 145–46; meanings and uses of the term, 23–27, 30; as metaphor for the space occupied by, 25–28; of Puer tea and handcrafted authenticity, 23–30; rethinking jianghu and multiplicity, 199–202
“killing the green” (sha qing), 56, 79f, 108, 207–9
Kunming, 116, 183–84, 189–95; companies moving to Yiwu from, 64; Jinghong Zhang in, 5, 6, 9, 64, 106, 175, 179; tea establishments, 20; tea-tasting events, 163, 164 (see also Sanzui tea-tasting event); teahouses
, 8, 20, 50, 107; “Voices from Yunnan” symposium in, 113, 116, 117. See also He, Mr.; Wen, Mr.; Zongming; specific topics
Kunming tea trade fair (2007), 7f
Lahu people, 15f
Lao Li, 184, 185, 188–90, 193, 195
Laobanzhang, 48, 62
Laos, 92
“large-leaf tea” (Camellia sinensis assamica), 11, 12, 88–92
Lévi-Strauss, Claude, 109
Li, Mr., 58, 73; house, 58, 60, 60f
Lianxiang Lou (restaurant), 33
localization, 180
loose tea (sancha), 206
Lü, Mr., 41, 42, 138–41
MacDougall, David, 203
maocha (loose dried tea leaves), 12–13, 69–71, 129; assessing the quality and “authenticity” of, 66–70; defined, 12; fine processing and, 56, 208; Mr. Wen and, 61, 62, 66, 67, 69–72; photographs of, 6f, 66f; price, 61–67, 70, 71, 123–24 (see also Puer tea: price); rough processing and, 67, 74, 206; sun-dried in the main street of Yiwu, 66f; two kinds of, 6f. See also specific topics
media and the downfall of Puer tea, 116
Mekong, 48
Mencius, 124, 125
Menghai, 15f 43–45, 47–48, 86
“Menghai taste,” 45, 47
Menghai Tea Factory, 44, 139
Mengku tea, 181–83, 185
mi: vs. fan, 186–90; meanings and uses of the term, 186, 188, 189
milk in America, parallels between the stories of Puer tea in China and, 214n7
National Administration of Quality Supervision, 56
National Tea Factory of Menghai, 44
nationalization of tea business, aspects of Puer tea that changed in Yiwu during, 126–30
neolocalization, 180
nostalgia, 22, 51, 52, 72–73, 195
Ohnuki-Tierney, Emiko, 17, 21
“original aura” of Puer tea production, 53–54, 76, 77
originality, 28, 33, 35, 45, 52, 54, 103–4; “imagined,” 53–54
Ortner, Sherry B., 125
oxidation, deactivating. See “killing the green”
packaging of tea, 20–21
Peters, John Durham, 196
picking, 206–7
Ping, Mr., 174–75
planting methods, 127–28
pollarding: defined, 217n5. See also under forest tea
postfermentation, 12–14, 89, 90, 186, 190, 209
production and consumption, 196. See also under Yunnan
production process, 13t, 206–7; stages, 56
Puer City. See Simao
Puer Jianghu magazine, 23, 24f
Puer tea: cultural dilemma, 119–20; cultural value, 99–100; definition and redefining of, 12, 89–93, 128–29; financial value, 100; flavor, 97–98; historical process revealed by, 21; jianghu of, and handcrafted authenticity, 23–30; multiple visions of the image of, 196; multiply imagined home, 103–5; outward appearance, 206; “overcooked” vs. “rawness” explanations of the downfall of, 115–20; price, 12, 35, 42, 47–48, 62, 100, 110–11, 129–30, 130f (see also aged Puer tea: price; forest tea: price; maocha: price; speculation; terrace tea: price); symbolic meanings, 16–23; therapeutic effects and health value, 6, 98–99, 116 (see also greasy food and tea consumption); types/categories of, 6, 6f, 12–13, 13t, 90–91; various shapes of compressed, 6f; viewed with “bifocal vision,” 196; wrapped in simple white paper, see “blank version” (bai ban) tea)
Puer Tea (Deng), 97–98
Puer Tea Association of Yunnan, 113. See also Tea Association of Yunnan
Puer tea battle (debate about the origin of Puer tea). See Yunnan: as (original) “home of Puer tea”
Puer tea categories: date of production, 205; processing techniques, 205–6
Puer tea paste, 98f
Puzi (web name), 50, 175–77, 183, 184
Quality Safety (QS) certification mark, 151, 157
Quality Safety (QS) Standard and certification system, 55–58, 60, 63, 73, 131, 149–51, 161; “blank versions” and, 151, 157; conflicts surrounding, 73, 77, 146; focused on fine rather than rough processing, 67; Hu Ba and, 150–51; Mr. He and, 60, 146–50; producers’ “wait-and-see” approach to, 151, 153
Quality Safety Standard requirements, 152, 153; as “tunnel vision,” 153
raw tea (sheng cha or sheng pu), 6, 6f, 12, 27, 45, 90, 205; brew of, 7f; coldness, 182–84, 218n4
red (black) tea (hong cha), 12
Reform and Opening Up, 127, 133, 164, 180, 189, 193
Reform-era China, 8, 19–21, 28, 76, 104, 120, 180
rice, symbolic meanings of, 17, 18, 21
rice production and tea production, 124–27, 131–33
“ripe” Puer tea. See artificially fermented tea
rolling, 208
rough processing, 56, 67, 74, 206
rubber, tea planted along with, 132–33, 154–56, 155f
samples, tea, 118, 168, 170–72
Sanzui tea-tasting event, 161–66, 172–77; aged Puer tea served at, 161, 165–69; ancient plus modern elements in, 166–68; multiple layers of space touched upon through, 177–78; silent tasting, 168–72; Zongming and participants from, 179
Sanzui website, 161, 162
self, rice as metaphor of the, 17, 21
self-representation and taste preferences, 162–63
seven-son tea cake (qi zi bing), 43, 44f
Shangri-la, 95, 96f
Shen Nong, 10
Simao, 81–83, 82f, 83f; caravans from, 87; chain of tea trees in, 82f, 85; claimed to be the home of Golden Melon Tribute tea, 83; claimed to be the home of Puer tea, 85, 86, 88, 93, 104; documentary about people involved in tea production in, 5; earthquake in, 110; General Tea Bureau (Zong Cha Dian) established in, 39; history and overview, 81; linked to tea consumption of the imperial household, 85; meetings in tea shops in, 107; as one of the world's origins of tea, 85; renamed Puer City, 81–86, 88, 93, 110, 112, 115; tea tree resources in, 10
Simao tea trade fair, 83, 84f, 99f, 102f
Sin (trader from Kunming), 73
singing teahouses, pure, 192
Six Great Tea Mountains, 81; books about, 156, 200; family commercial brands in, 205; history, 38–39, 43–44, 49, 84–85, 156, 200, 213n4; maps of, 50–51, 70, 153; overview, 38; Puer Prefecture and, 84–85; Puzi, 50; relics of, 52; rubber area in, 156; tea companies in, 205; tea processing in, 39, 43. See also Yiwu
“small-leaf tea” (Camellia sinensis sinensis), 11, 88, 91
social relationships, tea production symbolizing, 47
sorting, 207
speculation, tea (chao cha), 107–12, 116, 119, 120
Spring Harvest (film), 203
stir-roasting (chao cha), 108–10, 207–8, 212n10. See also “killing the green”
storage, 209
storytelling at teahouses, 192
“sun-dried basic tea leaves” (shai qing maocha), 129
sun-dried tea, 11, 66f, 90, 151, 172, 183, 188, 189, 207, 208
Taiwan, 41–43, 45, 49, 50, 138–39, 189; Jinghong Zhang's visits to, 9, 141; Puer tea collected in, 6, 33, 39; tea cake and, 42–43; tea purchased from, 14, 41, 42; tea quality and, 48, 66, 190. See also specific topics
Tao, Xia, 110
Taoism. See Daoism
taste preferences, 43–48, 182–83; factors and influence, 162; fermentation and, 186; “standard”/“collective,” 183. See also tea-tasting events
tea: drinking alone vs. with another person, 176; history, 10; symbolic meanings, 16–23. See also specific topics
Tea Association of Yunnan, 114. See also Puer Tea Association of Yunnan
tea bowls, 138–40, 167, 176f
tea cake. See caked tea/tea cake “tea capital,” 171
tea factory(ies) (chachang), 44, 111, 213n10; in Menghai, 48; Mr. Gao's, 63; Mr. He's, 60, 146–50; national, 44, 45, 126, 129, 205; state-owned, 41. See also specific factories
Tea-Horse Road, 51, 52, 72, 87f. See also Ancient Tea-Horse Road
tea material, methods of ascertaining the origin of, 118–
19. See also authenticity
tea production. See production
tea-tasting events (chahui), 163, 164f, 173–78; contexts in which they emerged, 163–65. See also Sanzui tea-tasting event
teahouses: ancient and modern elements and materials in, 166–68; Kunming, 8, 20, 50, 107; types of, 192
teas: named after places, 11; types of, 11–12, 90
telling stories teahouses, 192
terrace tea (tai di cha or xiao shu cha), 69f, 154; vs. forest tea, 6–7, 67–69, 116, 128, 128f, 133–39, 151, 198; overview, 6, 7; price, 67, 68, 71, 133, 134f, 139, 198
terroir, 103
Tibet, 40
tradition: new, 190–95; protecting, 194–95
transformation (hua), 145–46; and the desire to balance, 16–23
transformations, multiple, 158
translocality, 104
transport, modes of, 14
tu cha (earthy/indigenous tea), 157
values, “great,” 97–100
“Voices from Yunnan—The Clarification of Puer Tea's Current Situation” symposium, 113, 116, 117
“wait-and-see” attitude, 151, 153
Wang, 74–75
Wang Hai, 117
“warmth” of aged Puer tea, 97, 182, 183
Wei, Mr., 169
Wen, Mr. (trader from Kunming), 61, 64, 66–72, 175, 203; maocha and, 61, 62, 66, 67, 69–72
white tea (bai cha), 12
Xiaguan Bowl Tea Grade B (Xiaguan Yi Tuo) of 1988, 172, 173
Xiao Hu, 70, 71
Xishuangbanna, 44, 86–88; documentary about people involved in tea production in, 5; tea prices in, 130. See also specific topics
Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture, 3f
Xu (trader from Guangzhou), 64–65
Xu Kun, 129–30, 138
Xu Yahe, 92
Yan, Mr., 161, 162, 166, 168, 170, 174, 177
Yang, Mr., 173–74
Yao people, 70, 72
Ye, Mr., 34, 35
Yellow Leaf Puer tea (Lao Huang Pian), 121f
yellow tea (huang cha), 11–12
Yi people, 37, 70
Yiwu: an acquired taste for aged Puer tea in, 138–41; a cultural tea tour of, 49–53; handcrafting Puer tea in, 44, 47, 48, 51, 54; historical glory, 36–43; history from nationalized to private tea business in, 125–30; Jinghong Zhang's first visits to, 36; price of Puer tea in, 129–30, 130f; sketch map of central, 59f; struggling for the authentic, 72–75. See also specific topics
Yiwu Township, 36
Yiwu zheng shan, 35