Scent and Subversion
Page 30
Andron by Jovan, 202
Angel by Thierry Mugler, 216
Angélique Encens by Creed, 55
Anne Klein II by Anne Klein, 194
Antaeus by Chanel, 177
Antilope by Weil, 82, 82
Aphrodisia by Fabergé, 69
Après L’Ondée by Guerlain, 22
Aramis by Estée Lauder, 119
Aromatics Elixir by Clinique, 140
Arpège by Lanvin, 46
Asja by Fendi, 213
Au Thé Vert Au Parfumée by Bulgari, 216
Audace by Rochas, 141, 141
Aviance by Prince Matchabelli, 149, 149
Azurée by Estée Lauder, 126
Azzaro by Azzaro, 161
Babe by Fabergé, 154
Baghari by Robert Piguet, 98
Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez, 113
Bambou by Weil, 60
Bandit by Robert Piguet, 79, 79
Bat-Sheba by Judith Muller, 122
Bellodgia by Caron, 47, 47
Bill Blass by Bill Blass, 161, 161
Blazer by Anne Klein, 154
Blue Carnation by Roger & Gallet, 65
Blue Grass by Elizabeth Arden, 60
Bois des Îles by Chanel, 45
Boucheron by Boucheron, 201
Bouquet de Catherine by Rallet, 26
Bulgari Black by Bulgari, 225
Byblos by Byblos, 210
Ça Sent Beau by Kenzo, 206
Cabochard by Grès, 109
Cabotine by Grès, 210
Calandre by Paco Rabanne, 127
Calèche by Hermès, 112
Calvin Klein by Calvin Klein, 162
Calypso by Robert Piguet, 92
Calyx by Prescriptives, 197
Canoe by Dana, 64
Cardin by Pierre Cardin, 156
Carnet de Bal by Révillon, 67
Chamade by Guerlain, 127, 128
Champagne (now Yvresse) by Yves Saint Laurent, 219
Chanel No. 5 by Chanel, 32
Chanel No. 19 by Chanel, 136
Chanel No. 22 by Chanel, 34
Chant d’Aromes by Guerlain, 113, 113
Chantilly by Houbigant, 78
Charlie by Revlon, 143, 143
Chimère by Prince Matchabelli, 184
Chloe by Lagerfeld, 150
Chypre de Coty, 18, 27, 27
Cialenga by Balenciaga, 144
Ciara by Revson, 115
Cinnabar by Estée Lauder, 162
Civet by Alyssa Ashley for Houbigant, 144
CK One by Calvin Klein, 208, 221
Coco by Chanel, 191
Cocktail Dry by Jean Patou, 96
Coeur-Joie by Nina Ricci, 83
Colony by Jean Patou, 70, 70
Confetti by Lenthéric, 75
Coriandre by Jean Couturier, 145
Crêpe de Chine by F. Millot, 39, 40
Crescendo by Lanvin, 119
Cristalle by Chanel, 147
Crysanthème by Lubin, 26
Cuir de Russie (or Russia Leather) by Chanel, 37, 37
Cuir de Russie by Lubin, 21
Derby by Guerlain, 194
Diorama by Christian Dior, 93
Diorella by Christian Dior, 141, 142
Dioressence by Christian Dior, 128
Diorissimo by Christian Dior, 105
Diorling by Christian Dior, 115
Diva by Ungaro, 174, 187
Djedi by Guerlain, 45
Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche, 185
Eau de Gucci, 220
Eau d’Hermès, 98
Eau du Fier by Annick Goutal, 228
Eau Dynamisante by Clarins, 199
Eau Fraîche by Christian Dior, 101
Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior, 121
Écusson by Jean d’Albret, 84
Eden by Cacharel, 222
Emeraude by Coty, 32, 170
Empreinte by Courrèges, 137
English Leather by MEM Company, 94
English Leather Timberline by MEM Company, 125
Enjoli by Charles of the Ritz, 163, 163
Envie by Lubin, 42
Envy by Gucci, 224
Escape by Calvin Klein, 214
Estée by Estée Lauder, 125
Evening in Paris by Bourjois, 48
Ex’cla.ma’tion by Coty, 203
Fahrenheit by Christian Dior, 203
Farnesiana by Caron, 85
Féminité du Bois by Shiseido, 217
Femme by Rochas, 80, 80
Fête by Molyneux, 114
Fidji by Guy Laroche, 121, 121
Fille d’Ève by Nina Ricci, 100
First by Van Cleef & Arpels, 156
Flambeau by Fabergé, 103, 103
Fleeting Moment (La Fuite des Heures) by Balenciaga, 94
Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron, 61
Fougère Royale by Houbigant, 20
Fracas by Robert Piguet, 90
French Cancan, Caron, 50
Futur by Robert Piguet, 122
Gauloises by Molyneux, 175
Geminesse by Max Factor, 147
Gin Fizz by Lubin, 104, 104
Giorgio by Giorgio of Beverly Hills, 178
Givenchy III by Givenchy, 135
Graffiti by Capucci, 124
Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene, 156
Gri Gri by Weil, 89
Gucci No. 1, 148
Gucci Rush by Gucci, 228
Habanita by Molinard, 33, 33
Halston by Halston, 150
Hypnotique by Max Factor, 109
Idole by Lubin, 114
Imprévu by Coty, 120
Indiscret by Lucien Lelong, 63
Infini by Caron, 143
Inoui by Shiseido, 157
Intimate by Revlon, 104, 105
Intoxication by D’Orsay, 71, 71
Iris Gris by Jacques Fath, 85, 85
Island Gardenia by Jovan, 185
Ivoire by Pierre Balmain, 176, 176
J’ai Osé by Guy Laroche, 159
Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain, 187
Je Reviens by Worth, 52, 73
Jealousy by Blanchard, 71
Jean Naté by Charles of the Ritz, 63
Jet by Corday, 89
Jicky by Guerlain, 20
Jil Sander Woman 2 by Jil Sander, 188
Jil Sander Woman 3 by Jil Sander, 197
Jil Sander Woman 4 by Jil Sander, 210
Jitrois by Jitrois, 214
Jolie Madame by Pierre Balmain, 101, 101
Joy by Jean Patou, 51, 51
Jungle Gardenia by Tuvaché, 52
Jungle L’Éléphant by Kenzo, 224
Jungle Le Tigre by Kenzo, 225
K by Krizia, 179
Kobako by Bourjois, 66
Knize Ten by Knize, 37
Knowing by Estée Lauder, 204
Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent, 179
Krazy by Krizia, 215
L’Aimant by Coty, 46, 46
L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci, 90
L’Ardente Nuit, by Corday, 58
L’Arte di Gucci, 215
L’Eau d’Issey by Issey Miyake, 218
L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain, 23
L’Interdit by Givenchy, 108, 108
L’Origan by Coty, 22, 22
La Fête Des Roses by Caron, 117
La Folie de Minuit by Lanier, 105
La Nuit by Paco Rabanne, 194
La Parfum Idèal by Houbigant, 28
Lancetti by Lancetti, 157
Laundromat by Demeter, 229
Lauren by Ralph Lauren, 164
Le Dandy by D’Orsay, 41, 41
Le Dix by Balenciaga, 86
Le Feu d’Issey by Issey Miyake, 226
Le Jardin by Max Factor, 185
Le Numéro Cinq (Le Parfum Connu) by Molyneux, 43
Liberator, The, by Cupid’s Quiver, 134
Liù by Guerlain, 49, 49
Loulou by Cacharel, 200
Love’s Baby Soft by Love Cosmetics, 158
/> Lutèce by Houbigant, 191
Ma Griffe by Carven, 83, 132
Macassar by Rochas, 177
Madame Rochas by Rochas, 2, 112
Madeleine de Madeleine by Madeleine Mono, 164
Magie Noire by Lancôme, 165
Mais Oui by Bourjois, 72, 72
Masumi by Coty, 123, 123
Maxim’s de Paris by Cardin, 191
Menace by Evyan, 92
Mētāl by Paco Rabanne, 172
Méteor by Coty, 95
Mink and Pearls by Jovan, 126
Miss Balmain by Pierre Balmain, 124
Miss Dior by Christian Dior, 86
Mitsouko by Guerlain, 28
Mollie Parnis by Weil, 165
Monsieur Balmain by Pierre Balmain, 116
Moon Drops by Revlon, 135
Muguet des Bois by Coty, 64, 65
Murasaki by Shiseido, 177
Musc Oil by Bruno Acampora, 151
Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens, 226
Musk by Alyssa Ashley for Houbigant, 129
Must de Cartier, 180
My Sin by Lanvin, 38, 38, 130
Mystère by Rochas, 166
Nahéma by Guerlain, 172
Narcisse Noir by Caron, 23
Niki de Saint Phalle by Niki de Saint Phalle, 188
Nocturnes de Caron by Caron, 181
Noir by Weil, 259
Nombre Noir by Shiseido, 182
Norell by Norell, 131
Nuance by Coty, 151, 152
Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin, 61
Nuit de Noël by Caron, 34
Nuits Indiennes by Jean-Louis Scherrer, 220
Ô de Lancôme by Lancôme, 131
Obsession by Calvin Klein, 195
Occur! by Avon, 115
Old Spice by Shulton, 67
Ombre Rose by Broussard, 182
Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, 159
Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum by Paloma Picasso, 192, 192
Panthère by Cartier, 198
Parfum d’Été by Kenzo, 218
Parfum de Peau by Claude Montana, 198
Parfum Rare by Jacomo, 199
Parfum Sacré by Caron, 211
Paris by Yves Saint Laurent, 189
Parure by Guerlain, 152
Passion by Elizabeth Taylor, 201
Peau d’Espagne by Santa Maria Novella, 21
Pheromone by Marilyn Miglin, 166
Phul-Nana by Grossmith, 21
Platine by Dana, 78, 78
Poème by Lancôme, 224
Poison by Christian Dior, 195, 195
Poivre by Caron, 99, 99, 231
Polo by Ralph Lauren, 167
Premier Figuier by L’Artisan, 223
Prétexte by Lanvin, 67
Primitif by Max Factor, 106, 106
Private Collection by Estée Lauder, 145
Que Sais-Je? by Jean Patou, 43
Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant, 24
Rallet No. 1 by A. Rallet & Co., 35
Reflections by Ciro, 56
Réplique by Raphael, 81
Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent, 137
Robe d’un Soir by Carven, 87
Roma by Laura Biagiotti, 204
Rosine Nuit de Chine by Paul Poiret, 27
Rumba by Balenciaga, 205
Rumeur by Lanvin, 61, 62
Sables by Annick Goutal, 196
Safari by Ralph Lauren, 211
Saint and Sinner by Adrían, 93
Samsara by Guerlain, 206
Sand and Sable by Coty, 190
Scandal by Lanvin, 56, 56
Scherrer 1 by Jean-Louis Scherrer, 172
Scherrer 2 by Jean-Louis Scherrer, 199
Secret of Venus by Weil, 57
Shalimar by Guerlain, 17, 30, 44, 44
Shocking by Schiaparelli, 68, 68
Sikkim by Lancôme, 138
Silences by Jacomo, 168
Sinan by Jean-Marc Sinan, 193
Sirocco by Lucien Lelong, 62, 62
Skin Musk by Bonne Bell, 153
Skinny Dip by Leeming Pfizer, 148
Snob by Galion, 100
Sophia by Coty, 183
Sortilège by Galion, 69, 69, 230
Sous le Vent by Guerlain, 57, 57
Sport Scent for Women by Jovan, 168
Straw Hat by Fabergé, 74
Styx by Coty, 23
Sublime by Jean Patou, 219
Sunflowers by Elizabeth Arden, 221
Surrender by Ciro, 53, 54
Tabac Blond by Caron, 29
Tabu by Dana, 54, 55, 107
Tailspin by Lucien Lelong, 78
Theorema by Fendi, 227
Tigress by Fabergé, 15, 74
Toujours Moi by Corday, 17, 39, 39, 88
Trésor by Lancôme, 212
Trussardi by Trussardi, 190
Tuvara by Tuvaché, 91
Un Air Embaumé by Rigaud, 31, 36
Vent Vert by Balmain, 87, 87
Via Lanvin by Lanvin, 139
Visa by Robert Piguet, 82
Vivara by Emilio Pucci, 120, 120
Vol de Nuit by Guerlain, 59, 59
Voulez-Vous by D’Orsay, 63, 110
Weil de Weil, 139
White Linen by Estée Lauder, 169
White Shoulders by Hartness, 93
Wild Musk by Coty, 146
Wind Drift English Leather by MEM Company, 136
Woman by Jovan, 160
Woodhue by Fabergé, 81
Wrappings by Clinique, 212
Y by Yves Saint Laurent, 118
Yatagan by Caron, 158
Yendi by Capucci, 153
Youth Dew by Estée Lauder, 101
Ysatis by Givenchy, 193
Zen by Shiseido, 118
Zibeline by Weil, 48, 48
Perfume Makers
A. Rallet & Co., 35
Adrían, 93
Alyssa Ashley, 148
for Houbigant, 129, 144
Amouage, 186
Anne Klein, 154, 194
Annick Goutal, 196, 228
Avon, 115
Azzaro, 161
Balenciaga, 86, 94, 144, 205
Balmain, 87, 87
Bill Blass, 161, 161
Blanchard, 71
Bonne Bell, 153
Boucheron, 201
Bourjois, iii, 48, 66, 72, 72, 95
Broussard, 182
Bruno Acampora, 151
Bulgari, 216, 225
Byblos, 210
Cacharel, 171, 171, 200, 222
Calvin Klein, 162, 195, 214, 221
Capucci, 124, 153
Cardin, 191
Caron, 29, 34, 47, 47, 50, 61, 74, 85, 99, 99, 117, 143, 158, 181, 211
Cartier, 198
Carven, 83, 87, 132
Chanel, 32, 34, 37, 37, 45, 136, 147, 177, 191
Charles of the Ritz, 63, 163, 163
Christian Dior, 86, 93, 101, 105, 115, 121, 128, 141, 142, 195, 195, 203
Ciro, 53, 54, 56
Clarins, 199
Claude Montana, 198
Clinique, 140, 212
Corday, vi, 39, 39, 58, 76, 88, 89
Coty, 22, 22, 23, 32, 46, 46, 60, 64, 65, 95, 120, 123, 123, 146, 151, 152, 170, 183, 190, 203
Courrèges, 137
Creed, 55, 91
Cupid’s Quiver, 136
D’Orsay, 41, 41, 63, 71, 71, 110
Dana, 8, 54, 55, 64, 78, 78, 102, 102, 107, 155, 173
Demeter, 229
Elizabeth Arden, 60, 221
Elizabeth Taylor, 201
Emilio Pucci, 120, 120
Estée Lauder, 101, 119, 125, 126, 140, 145, 162, 169, 204
Evyan, 92
F. Millot, 39, 40
Fabergé, 15, 69, 74, 81, 103, 103, 154
Fendi, 213, 227
Galion, 69, 69, 100, 230
Geoffrey Beene, 156
Giorgio of Beverly Hills, 178
Givenchy, 108, 108, 135, 193, 213
Grès, 109, 210
> Grossmith, 21
Gucci, 224, 228
Guerlain, 20, 22, 23, 28, 30, 44, 45, 49, 49, 57, 57, 59, 59, 113, 113, 127, 128, 152, 172, 187, 194, 206
Guy Laroche, 121, 121, 159, 185
Halston, 150
Hartnell, 93
Hermès, 112, 147, 223
Houbigant, 20, 24, 25, 28, 78, 191
Issey Miyake, 218, 226
Jacomo, 168, 199
Jacques Fath, 85, 85
Jean Couturier, 145
Jean d’Albret, 84
Jean Desprez, 11
Jean Patou, 43, 70, 70, 96, 219, 231
Jean-Louis Scherrer, 172, 199, 220
Jean-Marc Sinan, 193
Jil Sander, 188, 197, 210
Jovan, 126, 160, 168, 185, 202
Judith Muller, 122
Kenzo, 206, 218, 224, 225
Knize, 37
Krizia, 179, 215
L’Artisan, 223
Lagerfeld, 150
Lancetti, 157
Lancôme, 131, 138, 165, 212, 224
Lanier, 105
Lanvin, 16, 38, 38, 46, 56, 56, 61, 62, 67, 119, 130, 139
Laura Biagiotti, 204
Leeming Pfizer, 148
Lenthéric, 75
Love Cosmetics, 158
Lubin, 21, 26, 42, 61, 104, 104, 114
Lucien Lelong, 62, 62, 63, 78
Madeleine Mono, 164
Marilyn Miglin, 166
Max Factor, 12, 106, 106, 109, 147, 185
MEM Company, 94, 125, 136
Molinard, 33, 33
Molyneux, 43, 114, 175
Niki de Saint Phalle, 188
Nina Ricci, 83, 90, 100
Norell, 131
Paco Rabanne, 127, 172, 194
Paloma Picasso, 192, 192
Patou, 51, 51
Paul Poiret, 27
Pierre Balmain, 101, 101, 116, 124, 176, 176
Pierre Cardin, 156
Pinaud, 84
Prescriptives, 197
Prince Matchabelli, 103, 149, 149, 184
Rallet, 26
Ralph Lauren, 164, 167, 211
Raphael, 81
Révillon, 67
Revlon, 104, 105, 135, 143, 143
Revson, 115
Rigaud, 31, 36
Robert Piguet, 79, 79, 82, 90, 92, 98, 122
Rochas, 2, 80, 80, 112, 141, 141, 166, 177
Roger & Gallet, 65
Santa Maria Novella, 21
Schiaparelli, 68, 68
Serge Lutens, 226
Shiseido, 118, 157, 177, 182, 217
Shulton, 67
Thierry Mugler, 216
Trussardi, 190
Tuvaché, 52, 91
Ungaro, 174, 187
Van Cleef & Arpels, 156
Weil, 48, 48, 57, 60, 82, 82, 89, 165, 259
Worth, 52, 73
Yves Saint Laurent, 118, 137, 159, 179, 189, 219
About the Author
Photo courtesy of Caroline Voagen Nelson
Barbara Herman has been the go-to expert on vintage perfume since she began her blog, Yesterday’s Perfume, named as one of the top three perfume blogs by The Huffington Post. A former editor for TrèsSugar.com, she is now a freelance writer and perfume consultant. Her essays on perfume history have appeared in TheState.ae, Refnery21.com, VintageLifeMagazine.com, and Time Out NYC. She lives in New York City. Visit her at yesterdays perfume.com.