Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang

by Lonely Planet

  Jawi Peranakan MansionBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 8888; www.georgetownheritage.com/jawi-peranakan-mansion; 153 Jln Hutton; r incl breakfast from RM400; aWs)

  The latest in the GTH collection of boutique hotels in restored heritage buildings delivers Indian chic with its carved wooden doorways and wrought-iron details. It's a little bit of a walk from the main Heritage Zone but nothing too strenuous, and there's a good pool here to cool down in too.

  oClove HallHOTEL$$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-229 0818; www.clovehall.com; 11 Jln Clove Hall; ste incl breakfast RM575-675; aiWs)

  An Edwardian Anglo-Malay mansion housing six luxury suites, Clove Hall is the place to go if you want to feel and be treated like a mogul of the early 1900s – hardly surprising giving that the structure was originally the Sarkies brothers' (of the Eastern & Oriental Hotel fame) first Penang home.

  Jln Clove Hall intersects with Jln Burma about 1km north of Jln Transfer; a RM15 taxi ride from central George Town.

  Penaga HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 1891; www.hotelpenaga.com; cnr Lg Hutton & Jln Transfer; r/ste from RM350/550; aiWs)

  This hotel takes up most of a city block and spans three sections: a row of two-storey family-friendly mini-homes, apartment-sized suites and spacious rooms. All are decorated with a mix of original art, vintage-themed furnishings, and some charming touches such as cowhide rugs and mid-century-modern furniture. The stack of amenities includes a pool, central gardens and a coffee shop.

  G Hotel KelawaiBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-219 0000; www.ghotel.com.my; 2 Persiaran Maktab; r/ste from RM521/1453; ais)

  The hipper sibling of the nearby G Hotel Gurney ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-238 0000; www.ghotel.com.my; 168 Persiaran Gurney; r/ste from RM584/819; aiWs), this place is particularly popular with local visitors over the weekends, so book ahead if you wish to check in then. Rooms are all cool monochrome and elegance. The fab pool and superb rooftop bar are pluses.

  Batu Ferringhi & Teluk Bahang

  Explore

  Batu Ferringhi is the best easy-access beach stop on Penang, and it does make a pleasant break from the city. However, the beach doesn’t count among Malaysia’s finest; the water isn’t as clear as you might expect, swimming often means battling jellyfish, and the beach itself can be dirty. The vast majority of the area’s accommodation and restaurants are located along Jln Batu Ferringhi, the main strip, a short walk from the beach.

  Teluk Bahang is the quiet (sometimes deathly so) beach a few kilometres past Batu Ferringhi. The best reason for heading out this way is to spend time in Penang National Park, which also has deserted beaches you can hike to. Other attractions include a couple of gorgeous tropical gardens, Entopia by Penang Butterfly Farm and the Escape adventure park.

  The Best...

  ASight Penang National Park

  APlace to Eat Tree Monkey

  AActivity Tropical Spice Garden Cooking Courses

  Top Tip

  Contact the Penang Nature Tourist Guide Association (PNTGA; %04-881 4788; h8am-6pm) to arrange a guide for Penang National Park. Guided walks for up to five people start from RM250.

  Getting There & Away

  Bus 101 runs from Weld Quay and KOMTAR in George Town and takes around 30 minutes to reach Batu Ferringhi and another 10 to reach Teluk Bahang (both destinations RM4). A taxi from George Town to Batu Ferringhi/Teluk Bahang will cost at least RM40/50.

  1Sights

  oPenang National ParkNATIONAL PARK

  (Taman Negara Pulau Pinang; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-881 3500; h8am-5pm; g101)F

  At just 2300 hectares, Penang National Park is the smallest in Malaysia; it’s also one of the newest, having attained national park status in 2003. It offers some interesting and challenging jungle trails, as well as some of the island’s finest and quietest beaches.

  Private guides and several boat operators can be found near the park entrance. Travel one way from Teluk Duyung (Monkey Beach) is RM50, from Pantai Kerachut is RM90 and from Teluk Kampi is RM100.

  The park entrance is a short walk from Teluk Bahang’s main bus stop. It’s an easy 20-minute walk to the head of the canopy walkway (now permanently closed), from where you have the choice of two routes: bearing west towards Muka Head or south to Pantai Kerachut.

  The easiest walk is the 15-minute stroll west to Teluk Tukun beach where Sungai Tukun flows into the ocean. There are some little pools to swim in here. Following this trail along the coast about 10 minutes more brings you to the private University of Malaysia Marine Research Station, where there is a supply jetty, as well as Tanjung Aling, a nice beach to stop at for a rest. From here it’s another 45 minutes or so down the beach to Teluk Duyung, also called Monkey Beach (after the numerous primates who scamper about here). It's another 30 minutes to Muka Head, the isolated rocky promontory at the extreme northwestern corner of the island, where on the peak of the head is an off-limits lighthouse dating from 1883 and an Achenese-style graveyard. The views of the surrounding islands from up here are worth the sweaty uphill jaunt.

  A longer and more difficult trail heads south from the suspension bridge towards Pantai Kerachut, a beautiful white-sand beach that is a popular spot for picnics and is a green turtle nesting ground. Count on about 1½ hours to walk to the beach on the clear and well-used trail. On your way is the unusual meromictic lake, a rare natural feature composed of two separate layers of unmixed freshwater on top and seawater below, supporting a unique mini-ecosystem. From Pantai Kerachut beach you can walk about 40 minutes onward to further-flung and isolated Teluk Kampi, which is the longest beach in the park; look for trenches along the coast that are remnants of the Japanese occupation in WWII.

  oTropical Spice GardenGARDENS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-881 1797; www.tropicalspicegarden.com; Jl Teluk Bahang; adult/child RM27.50/15.90, incl tour RM37.10/21.20; h9am-6pm; g101)

  This beautifully landscaped oasis of tropical, fragrant fecundity offers trails past more than 500 species of flora, with an emphasis on edible herbs and spices. You can explore the grounds on your own, or join one of four daily guided tours at 9am, 11.30am, 1.30pm and 3.30pm. Take bus 101 from George Town (RM4) and let the driver know that you want to get off here.

  The garden offers well-regarded cooking courses and its restaurant is worth a visit. There's also a good shop, and just across the road from the gardens there's a beautiful white-sand beach.

  oArt & Garden by Fuan WongGARDENS, GALLERY

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %013-533 1232; www.facebook.com/ArtandGardenbyFuanWong; adult/child RM30/15; h9am-6.30pm Thu-Mon; g501)

  Rising up a hillside on a part of the family’s durian orchard is this amazing conceptual garden where glass artist Fuan Wong marries his superb collection of weird and wonderful plants with his sculptures and installations. Creative works by other artists are dotted throughout the garden, which also offers breathtaking views of Penang Hill.

  Entopia by Penang Butterfly FarmGARDENS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-888 8111; www.entopia.com; 830 Jln Teluk Bahang; adult/child RM49/29; h9am-7pm; g501)

  Entopia is about so much more than tropical butterflies – even though there's some 13,000 of these beauties from around 120 species fluttering freely around the well-designed attraction's outdoor gardens. You'll also be able to see and learn about all kinds of insects and invertebrates while wandering around this large maze-like environment.

  Count on spending at least a couple of hours here to see everything; there's a good cafe you can pause at half-way around.

  EscapeAMUSEMENT PARK

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-881 1106; www.escape.my; 282 Jln Teluk Bahang; adult/child RM83/55; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun; g501)

  Fun for all the family here, but be warned: adults report being more challenged than their kids by the adventurous games and attractions at this eco-themed play park, some of which involve climbing and jumping.

  Escape is about 1km south of Teluk
Bahang's roundabout.

  5Eating & Drinking

  Most of Batu Ferringhi's restaurants are strung along Jln Batu Ferringhi, close by the beach. There's plenty of budget options and hawker stalls as well as a preponderance of places serving Middle Eastern food, all aiming to capture the Arab visitors who favour the resort.

  You can get a beer at most non-halal places, but outside of the hotels, toes-in-the-sand-type beach bars are few – Bora Bora ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-885 1313; www.facebook.com/boraborabysunset; Jln Batu Ferringhi; hnoon-1am Sun-Thu, until 3am Fri & Sat; g101), located roughly in the centre of the strip, is the exception.

  The main shopping area along the road heading east to Batu Ferringhi has a few coffee shops where you’ll find cheaper Chinese dishes and seafood, as well as a couple of places selling nasi kandar (standard rice with a choice of curry and vegetables), such as Restoran K-Haleel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Teluk Bahang; mains RM1.50-4; h24hr; g101).

  Tree MonkeyTHAI$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-881 3993; www.treemonkey.com.my; Tropical Spice Garden, Jln Teluk Bahang; mains RM18-80; h10.30am-10.30pm; W; g101)

  This is al fresco at its best, with a view of the sea and on the doorstep of the lush Tropical Spice Garden. A Thai owner oversees a huge variety of tasty Thai dishes, including several ‘tapas’ sets (RM38 to RM168).

  Ferringhi GardenINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-881 1193; Jln Batu Ferringhi; mains RM25-350; hcafe 8am-5pm, restaurant 5-11pm; aW; g101)

  Everyone falls in love with the outdoor setting with its terracotta tiles and hardwood surrounded by bamboo – not to mention the seafood-heavy menu. During the daytime hours, the neighbouring cafe serves good breakfast and real coffee – a relative rarity in Batu Ferringhi.

  BungalowINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-886 8686; www.lonepinehotel.com; Lone Pine Hotel, 97 Jln Batu Ferringhi; mains RM28-40; W; g101)

  Back in the 1940s, the bungalow that this beachside restaurant partly occupies was the hub of the Lone Pine Hotel, one of Batu Ferringhi's most historic properties. That period is evoked in dishes such as chicken chop – remnants of the era when Hainanese chefs, former colonial-era domestic servants, dominated restaurant kitchens. Other Malaysian and international dishes are available.

  On Sunday from 12.30pm to 3.30pm it serves a good-value buffet for RM65.

  TarbushMIDDLE EASTERN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-885 2558; www.tarbush.com.my; Jln Batu Ferringhi; mains RM15-60; hnoon-midnight; a; g101)

  Middle Eastern visitors have brought their cuisine to Batu Ferringhi, and Lebanese restaurants line the town’s main strip. This branch of a KL restaurant empire is reliable. We fancy the two meze platters, which bring together everything from hummus to kibbeh (lamb meatballs with bulgur).

  2Activities

  There’s plenty of water-sports rental outfits along the beach; options include jet skis (RM70 for 15 minutes), banana-boating (RM25 per person) and parasailing (RM150 per ride) trips.

  After which you might need a relaxing massage. All sorts of foot masseuses will offer you their services; expect to pay around RM40 for a 30-minute deep-tissue massage.

  Tropical Spice Garden Cooking CoursesCOOKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-881 1797; http://tsgcookingschool.com; Jl Teluk Bahang; adult/child RM233.20/116.60; hlessons 9am-1pm Mon-Sat; g101)

  Hands-on cooking classes, of up to 10 people, provide all you need to know on how to prepare local dishes using ingredients that are grown just outside the door in the Tropical Spice Garden. The half-day course begins with a guided tour of the garden and ends with lunch.

  Chi the Spa at Shangri-laSPA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-888 8888; www.shangri-la.com; Rasa Sayang Resort, Jln Batu Ferringhi; treatments from RM150; g101)

  By a wide margin the most luxurious spa on Penang, Chi is its own little wonderland of pampering, with massages and other treatments taking place in one of 11 private villas in a lush beachside setting.

  4Sleeping

  There are lots of somewhat overpriced, chain-style resorts in Batu Ferringhi catering to families, and quite a few extremely overpriced, homestay budget places, but very little in between. The vast majority of accommodation is along Jln Batu Ferringhi, the town's main strip, which runs parallel to the beach.

  Teluk Bahang has mainly budget and midrange accommodation with nothing particularly outstanding. For top-end resorts, the closest option is to stay in nearby Batu Ferringhi. Alternatively you could sample Malaysian homelife by contacting the local homestay collective (%019-412 4729; www.homestaytelukbahang.com; r full board from RM140).

  RoomiesHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-881 1344; www.roomiespenang.com; 4th fl, 76C-4 Jln Batu Ferringhi; dm/r incl breakfast RM40/150; aiW; g101)

  If you don't mind sleeping communally, Roomies is by far the most appealing budget option in Batu Ferringhi. The dorm spans 10 beds, and is spacious, bright and clean. There are also two private rooms and all rooms share a clean set of bathrooms. The rooftop area with a hydroponic lettuce garden is a plus!

  LZBGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-881 1252; 392 Jln Batu Ferringhi; dm RM30, r with/without bathroom RM70/60; a; g101)

  Located just off the main strip, behind a convenience store, LZB (formerly Lazy Boys) has smartened up its act since it was taken over by friendly Wan and her family. The dorms and rooms are clean and functional.

  Baba Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-881 1686; babaguesthouse2000@yahoo.com; 52 Batu Ferringhi; r from RM70; aW; g101)

  A turquoise-painted domestic compound belonging to a friendly Chinese family houses large and spotless rooms – although bare. Half the rooms share bathrooms, while the more expensive air-con rooms come with a fridge and shower.

  Roomies SuitesHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-881 1378; www.roomiespenang.com; 4th fl, 1-9B Eden Parade, Lg Sungai Emas; r incl breakfast from RM150; aiW; g101)

  Despite being on the 4th floor of a shopping complex, Roomies Suites is easily Batu Ferringhi's best midrange option. The 13 rooms here are stylish and spacious, and are looked after by a friendly host.

  It offers the same high standards as its sister property, which has a dorm.

  Sea Princess HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-346 0981; 811A Jln Hassan Abas; r from RM120; aiW; g101)

  You can't miss this brightly coloured, three-storey block, located along Teluk Bahang's main drag. The 18 rooms are clean and spacious, and have a dash of character thanks to feature wallpaper. The place is overseen by an enthusiastic owner.

  Hotel SportfishingHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-885 2728; Jln Nelayan; d/tr from RM120/125; aW; g101)

  The two floors of plain-but-clean rooms are at the edge of the beach and look over the fishing pier. You'll pay about RM10 extra for a sea-view room.

  oLone Pine HotelRESORT$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-886 8686; www.lonepinehotel.com; 97 Jln Batu Ferringhi; r/ste incl breakfast from RM644/1064; aiWs; g101)

  Dating back to the 1940s, this is one of Batu Ferringhi’s oldest – and best – resorts. The 90 rooms are spacious and bright; a few offer personal plunge pools or private gardens. The grounds have a stately, national-park-like feel, with hammocks suspended between the pines (actually casuarina trees), and a huge 'spa salt' pool as a centrepiece.

  oRasa Sayang ResortRESORT$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-881 1966; www.shangri-la.com; Jln Batu Ferringhi; r/ste incl breakfast from RM875/2290; aiWs; g101)

  Spread across 30 acres, its beachside grounds shaded by historic raintrees, the Rasa Sayang is Batu Ferringhi's top resort. It's split into two wings, Garden and Rasa, with the latter offering the more exclusive atmosphere. Rooms are large and pleasantly decorated; all have balconies and many have sea views.

  Shangri-La Golden Sands ResortRESORT$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-886 1191; www.shangri-la.com; Jln Batu Ferringhi; r f
rom RM495; aiWs; g101)

  You can almost imagine Julie the cruise director leading you through the orderly array of blue, rubber-woven lawn chairs, sprawling cement walkways and mushroom-like thatched huts at this family-oriented resort. Rooms move into the modern age and are spacious with marble bathrooms.

  Hard Rock HotelRESORT$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-881 1711; http://penang.hardrockhotels.net; Jln Batu Ferringhi; r/ste incl breakfast from RM464/1160; aiWs; g101)

  If you can stomach the corny, hyper-corporate vibe, this resort can be a fun place to stay. There’s a particular emphasis on family-friendliness, with child-friendly pools, kid-friendly suites and teen-themed play areas (complete with pool table and video games).

  A branch of the Hard Rock Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-886 8050; http://penang.hardrockhotels.net; Jln Batu Ferringhi; h11.30am-2am; g101) is attached to the resort.

  The Rest of Penang

  Explore

  Travelling around Penang, you’ll find the same cultural mix as in George Town but in smaller doses and with a more paradisaical backdrop. There are hilltop views, quaint fishing villages, picturesque temples and smaller islands to discover.

  While there are buses from George Town to specific destinations, there is no round-island bus route. So if you want to make the 70km circuit of the island, hire a car or motorcycle and plan to spend a minimum of five hours driving, including plenty of sightseeing and refreshment stops. If you are really fit, cycling is an option but you’ll need to allow all day or – better still – consider scheduling a stop in Teluk Bahang for the night to rest the thighs. The north-coast road runs beside the beaches.