The Ultimate Rice Cooker

by Julie Kaufmann

  2. Preheat the oven to 375ºF.

  3. Wash the rice. Place the rice in a bowl (or use the bowl of your rice cooker) and fill the bowl about half-full with cold tap water. Swirl the rice in the water with your hand. Carefully pour off most of the water, holding one cupped hand under the stream to catch any grains of rice that are carried away with the water. Holding the bowl steady with one hand, use the other to rub and squeeze the wet rice, turning the bowl as you go, so that all the rice is “scrubbed.” The small amount of water in the bowl will turn chalky white. Now, run cold water into the bowl, give the rice a quick swish, and carefully drain off the water as before. Repeat the scrubbing and pouring-off process two more times. By the third time, the water you pour off will be nearly clear.

  4. Place the drained rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add water to the 4-cup mark on the rice cooker. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

  5. While the rice cooks, prepare the salmon. Cover a small baking sheet with aluminum foil. Spray the foil with nonstick cooking spray. Arrange the salmon pieces on the foil. Bake the salmon for 5 to 6 minutes, turning the fish over and continuing to bake until it is just cooked through, about 5 minutes more, depending on the thickness of the fish. (Flake with a fork to check for doneness.) The fish should not brown.

  6. When the fish is cooked, remove it from the foil and place on a plate. Remove and discard the skin and any bones. Using a fork or chopsticks, flake the salmon into very small pieces, not more than ½ inch long on a side. (Larger flakes might cause your rice balls to split open.)

  7. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Fluff the rice briefly with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Remove the bowl from the cooker and allow the rice to cool until it is just cool enough to easily handle, 3 to 4 minutes

  8. Pour 1 tablespoon sea salt on a small plate. To shape the balls, wet your hands with cool water. Touch your index finger to the salt in the dish and rub your hands together to distribute the salt. Scoop a small handful of warm rice into your palm, ⅓ to ½ cup. (Only a bit of experience will tell you what a handful is for you; you need enough to make a nice-sized rice ball but not so much that you cannot shape it properly.) Make a dent in the center of the rice ball and fill the dent with 1 to 2 teaspoons of the salmon. Cup your hands and use them to bury the salmon and shape the rice into an oval, like an egg. You’ll be holding the rice in one cupped hand and using the other one to smooth and turn the rice ball around. Use enough pressure so that the rice sticks together. When the rice ball is smooth and even, set it on a plate. Repeat with the remaining rice and salmon, remembering to wet and salt your hands after every 1 or 2 rice balls. You may have some salmon left over.

  Rice balls can be eaten immediately or stored, covered tightly, at room temperature for several hours. Do not refrigerate; the rice will harden.

  9. Just before serving or packing in a lunch box or picnic basket, add the nori wrap. Cut each sheet of nori into 4 thick strips. Wrap each rice ball in a nori sheet.

  variations: Want to get fancy? Your onigiri can be shaped into triangles. Follow the instructions through step 7 for stuffing the rice with the salmon. Wet and salt your hands as described in step 8. Then scoop a smaller than usual handful of rice into your palm. Put 1 to 2 teaspoons of the salmon onto the rice, then top the salmon with a small dab of rice, 2 teaspoons or so. This makes it easier to bury the salmon. Press the rice around the salmon. To shape the stuffed rice into a triangle, fold the hand holding the rice in half, keeping your fingers together and straight. Use the fingers of your other hand to press the rice into an upright triangle shape. Rotate the rice and press again to shape. Continue rotating and pressing, balancing the triangle upright against the fleshy part of your hand right below your thumb. It’s easier than it sounds!

  bonito-stuffed rice balls: Instead of salmon, use katsuo flakes (those are the shavings of dried bonito that are used to make dashi), ½ cup or so, dampened with a bit of soy sauce. The larger bonito shavings are best for this, not the ones shredded as finely as angel hair pasta. (Don’t use too much soy sauce or your rice balls will be brown instead of white.) Prepare the rice balls as directed, substituting the damp katsuo flakes for the fish.

  tuna-stuffed rice balls: Make a simple tuna salad by combining a well-drained 6-ounce can of oil-packed tuna with 1 to 2 teaspoons mayonnaise and soy sauce to taste (start with ¼ teaspoon or so). Stuff and wrap the rice balls as directed.

  umeboshi-stuffed rice balls: Stuff the rice balls as directed with 1 small or half of a large umeboshi (pickled plum). These are sold in small jars in Asian markets. If you purchase umeboshi with their pits, take care when eating them. Wrap as directed.

  TOASTING SEEDS AND NUTS

  Shelled nuts and seeds are often added to rice dishes, providing flavor along with naturally built-in nourishment. Nuts bring a unique character to rice dishes due to their high percentage of flavorful natural fat, which is released in the presence of heat. You can use raw nuts, toasted nuts, dry-roasted nuts, and nuts with or without salt, as desired. Favorite nuts include almonds, walnuts, and pine nuts. Chestnuts are used in Japanese and Italian rices, pistachios are used in Indian rices, and macadamia nuts are used in fusion recipes. Almonds and hazelnuts, unlike walnuts and pecans, have thin skins, which can be removed by blanching before using. Store all shelled nuts in the refrigerator for about nine months or in the freezer for no longer than one year, until the next year’s new crop, but fresh is best.

  To Toast Almonds, Pecans, Walnuts, and Pine Nuts

  Toasting gives nuts a richer flavor and crisps the texture. Slivered or sliced nuts will toast much more quickly than pieces or halves.

  In a conventional oven: Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place the nuts on an ungreased baking sheet on the center rack and toast for 10 to 15 minutes (depending on the size of the nuts), stirring once with a flat spatula. The nuts should be hot and very pale golden; if they get darker, the flavor will be destroyed and the nuts will taste burnt. Let cool to room temperature before using.

  In the microwave oven: Place the nuts in a single layer on a shallow paper plate or double layer of paper towels. Toast the nuts on high power for 4 to 5 minutes per ½ cup, stirring every 1 to 2 minutes to prevent burning and facilitate even browning. This method toasts nuts very quickly, so watch carefully! Let cool to room temperature before using.

  On the stovetop: When a recipe calls for 1/4 cup or less of toasted nuts, they can be toasted in a heavy skillet or sauté pan on the stovetop. Place whole or chopped nuts in a clean, dry skillet over medium-low heat. Stir constantly or shake the pan until the nuts are slightly colored and aromatic, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove from the pan to cool to room temperature before using.

  To Blanch Almonds

  Fill a medium-size saucepan three-quarters full of water and bring it to a boil. Add the whole shelled almonds and remove the pan from the heat. Let stand for 3 minutes, then rinse the nuts under cold running water. Squeeze the nut kernel out of its loosened brown layer of skin by holding the nut between your thumb and index finger. Let the nuts dry on a layer of paper towels for at least 2 hours or gently oven-dry on a baking sheet in a preheated 300°F. oven for 4 to 5 minutes.

  To Skin and Oven-Dry Pistachio Nuts

  Place the nuts in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Let the nuts stand for 1 minute, then drain. Turn the nuts out onto a dish towel and rub off the skins. Dry the nuts on a baking sheet in a preheated 300°F oven for about 8 minutes. Store in an airtight container in the freezer.

  To Toastand Skin Hazelnuts or Filberts

  These nuts have a tough, loose skin that is first removed by toasting. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the hazelnuts in one layer in a baking pan. Toast for 10 to 15 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the nuts are lightly colored and the skins blister. Wrap the nuts in a dish towel and let them stand for 1 minute. Rub the nuts in a towel to remove the skins. Let cool to room temperature before using.
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br />   To Toast Macadamia Nuts

  Macadamia nuts are most commonly available already salted. They are perfectly fine to use like this, just take care to adjust any other salt required in the recipe. If you want unsalted nuts, place the nuts in a mesh strainer and rinse with cold water. Drain on paper towels and proceed to toast as directed. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the nuts in one layer in a baking pan. Toast for about 7 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the nuts are lightly colored. Macadamias burn easily, so take care not to overcook. Let cool to room temperature before using.

  To Peel and Oven- Dry Chestnuts

  While there are vacuum-packed cans of chestnuts in well-stocked grocery stores, the flavor of fresh chestnuts is a real treat in rice dishes. Chestnuts have the reputation of being the most time-consuming nut to peel, but the reward is apparent with the first bite. Place the whole chestnuts in their shells in a large bowl. Completely cover with boiling water. Let stand for 30 minutes, then drain in a colander. With a paring knife, peel off the brown shell and underlying thin brown skin. Cut the nut into the desired number of pieces. Use as is or oven-dry the pieces on a baking sheet in a preheated 300°F oven for 5 to 8 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces.

  PRESERVED LEMONS

  Preserved lemons are made by soaking lemons in a brine solution made of lemon juice plus salt, sugar, or a combination of the two until the lemons turn pulpy and soft. They are used as a condiment or flavor accent in Moroccan cuisine. While they may sound exotic, one taste and people sure do get excited about preserved lemons! That’s what our colleague Carolyn Jung at the San Jose Mercury News found when she wrote about making preserved lemons, an easy yet fascinating process. Carolyn had attended a class in Moroccan cooking taught by cookbook author Kitty Morse, stocked up on salt and Meyer lemons, and then found she was very nearly obsessed with watching the fruit change, day by day, into the tart, pulpy, and addictive preserved lemons. This can take a month or more, but you can speed up the process by chopping or slicing the lemons instead of just slitting them. Some cooks freeze the lemons for several hours first, or boil the filled jars, also to hasten the process. Many recipes say to rinse the salt off the lemons before using and to use only the peels. Carolyn disagrees, and so do we. We like the way preserved lemons add salt as well as a deeply lemony flavor to foods. Just finely chop the lemons and add to a dish (like our Moroccan Brown Rice) during cooking, or at the end. Or use the lemons uncooked, such as in vinaigrettes.

  About 6 to 12 juicy lemons, preferably thin-skinned Meyers

  Kosher salt

  One 1-quart glass jar with a tight-fitting lid

  1. Wash the lemons and dry them thoroughly. Using a clean dry knife, quarter the lemons, remove any seeds, and trim and discard the ends.

  2. Sprinkle about 1 tablespoon of salt in the bottom of the jar. Layer the lemons in the jar, alternating with salt, adding 1 tablespoon of salt for each whole lemon. As you reach the top of the jar, press down on the lemons to cram as many pieces as possible into the jar. As you do this, the lemons will exude their juice. When the jar is tightly packed, the level of juice will have risen to or near the top of the jar. You want the jar to be truly full, so if need be, squeeze in some additional lemon juice. Seal the jar and gently shake it to mix the salt and juice. If you are having trouble submerging the lemons, fill the space at the top of the jar with a piece of crumpled plastic wrap.

  3. Place the jar on a countertop out of direct sunlight and shake it gently every day or so. In the first few days, as the lemons begin to soften, they may pack down enough to allow you to add another lemon or two. Do so if you can. The lemons are done when they are truly mushy and the juice is syrupy. This will take a few weeks. Once you begin to use the lemons, store the jar in the refrigerator, where it will keep for several months.

  TWO RECIPES FOR ENTERTAINING

  Sometimes you need an extra-large batch of rice for a special occasion—a holiday, a birthday party, an open house. Here are two recipes.

  Rice with Fresh Greens

  Here is steamed rice, just a little bit special, to serve with grilled fish and chicken. The combination of parsley, mint, and basil is very Italian and ever so good. Remember that, whenever cooking rice to the full capacity of the cooker bowl, the rice on the bottom will be a bit squishy, so a thorough but gentle mixing after the steaming period is imperative.

  MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/off

  CYCLE: Regular

  YIELD: Serves 20 to 24

  6 cups long-grain white rice, such as basmati, Texmati, converted, or Carolina

  7¾ cups water

  5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

  1¼ tablespoons salt

  ½ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves

  ½ cup chopped fresh mint leaves

  ½ cup chopped fresh basil leaves

  1. Place the rice in a fine strainer or bowl, rinse with cold water 2 to 4 times, and drain.

  2. Coat the rice cooker bowl with nonstick cooking spray or a film of vegetable oil. Place the rice in the rice bowl. Add the water, butter, and salt; swirl just to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

  3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Add the herbs to the rice bowl; stir with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon to evenly distribute. Close the cover and let the rice steam for 30 minutes. This rice will hold on Keep Warm for up to 2 hours. Serve hot.

  Creamy Dill Rice

  A simple but filling rice with herbs that can be served alongside roast turkey or ham. It is made creamy by the use of sour cream (reduced-fat, including nonfat, varieties are acceptable) stirred in at the very end just before serving.

  MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/off

  CYCLE: Regular

  YIELD: Serves 30

  7½ cups long-grain white rice, such as basmati, Texmati, or Carolina

  9½ cups chicken stock

  6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

  1 tablespoon salt

  1 cup chopped fresh dill

  ½ cup minced fresh Italian parsley leaves

  ¼ cup minced fresh tarragon leaves

  3 cups sour cream

  Freshly ground black pepper

  1. Place the rice in a fine strainer or bowl, rinse with cold water 2 to 4 times, and drain.

  2. Coat the rice cooker bowl with nonstick cooking spray or a film of vegetable oil. Place the rice in the rice bowl. Add the stock, butter, salt, dill, parsley, and tarragon; swirl just to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

  3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 30 minutes. Fluff gently but thoroughly with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This rice will hold on Keep Warm for up to 2 hours.

  4. When ready to serve, stir the sour cream to loosen it, then stir it into the hot rice. Serve immediately, passing the pepper grinder.

  the family of PILAFS

  Riz au Beurre

  Qui’s Basmati Pilaf

  Brown Rice Pilaf

  Rizau Parmesan

  Indian Yellow Rice

  Orange Rice Pilaf

  Vintner’s Rice

  Tomato-Rice Pilaf

  Rice Pilaf with Fresh Peas

  Carrot Basmati Pilaf

  French Pilaf

  Riz Persillé

  Rice Pilaf with Fresh Herbs

  Arroz Negro

  Green Pilaf with Baby Spinach and Endive

  Riz à l ’ Indienne

  Brown Butter Apricotand Pine Nut Pilaf

  Riz Oriental

  Mexican Rice

  Rice and Vermicelli Pilaf

  Classic Sopa Seca

  Arroz Verde

  Arroz Amarillo (Caribbean Yellow Rice )

  Thai Curried Rice

  Aromatic Kalijira Rice Pilaw

  Fruited Pilaf

  Lamb Biryani

  Zucchini an
d Mung Dal

  Simple Indian Rice

  Rice Cooker Paella

  Vegetable Paella

  Arrozcon Pollo

  A pilaf, so to speak, is as old as the hills. Invented in ancient Persia, it is derived from the Turkish word pilau, the method of preparing rice by first cooking it in meat fat or oil to enrich the flavor and keep the grains perfectly separated when cooked, then adding meat or poultry broth for steaming.

  Rice, along with spices, incense, cloth, and jewels, was one of the basic commodities traded along the ancient sea route from Egypt down through the Red Sea and between the Arabian Peninsula and India. This maritime highway is known to have been in use by 2500 B.C.

  An ancestor of the local wild grass called nivara, rice had been growing along the Indus River valley for about two thousand years when the first Near East sea traders began their merchant voyages to the ancient world’s delta ports. The fertile, silt-rich area, perfect for the grain that needs so much water, runs along the western Indian border from the mountains of Tibet into the Arabian Sea, through the length of present-day Pakistan. It is one of the sites of rice’s earliest cultivation, a populated area estimated at 500,000 square miles, and is the basis for India being one of the great rice centers of the world, along with China.

  The great Indus River valley culture centered at the archaeological site of Mohenjo-Daro, one of six large cities as old and as sophisticated as the ancient civilization of Mesopotamia and the pyramid builders of Egypt. The inhabitants of Mohenjo-Daro ran their agricultural economy by nature’s clock, the monsoon, which helped create an extensive natural irrigation system. At the time, the rice-growing area boasted a concentration of approximately one-quarter of the world’s population, each person eating hundreds of pounds of rice per year. Soon rice became a delicious staple in the neighboring Persian Empire, which then introduced the art of rice cultivation to the Babylonians of the Euphrates Valley, the “cradle” of civilization.