The Ultimate Rice Cooker

by Julie Kaufmann

  We keep leftovers in small plastic freezer bags, ready to be defrosted overnight in the refrigerator or in the microwave, to add to recipes. The first preparation that comes to mind for leftover rice is fried rice, improvised in the kitchen and made anew with each batch. Rice is also a great ingredient in other recipes, such as in soups, fried rice, rice salads, and pancakes, just to name a few. We have assembled a selection here to get you inspired, but remember your leftover rice for stuffings, casseroles, muffins, and yeast breads as well.

  plain rice and green tea (ochazuke)

  Ochazuke is as simple as it gets: plain cooked rice warmed up with brewed green tea, in roughly the same proportions as cereal and milk. Ochazuke is such popular JapaneseAmerican family food that it even has a baby talk name: cha-cha gohan (cha-cha refers to the tea; gohan is rice). The rice can be fresh from your rice cooker’s Keep Warm cycle or at room temperature. If it has been refrigerated, you may wish to reheat it slightly, either in the rice cooker or in the microwave. At the very least, remove it from the fridge while you prepare the tea. It can be a snack, a quick, light meal, or a way to end a family supper. If you wish, you can eat your tea rice with Japanese pickles or a pickled plum (umeboshi).

  YIELD: Serves 2

  1½ cups cooked Japanese-style white rice

  1 cup freshly brewed hot green tea

  Divide the rice between two bowls. Pour the hot tea over the rice and serve.

  japanese-style leftover rice soup

  This is a type of zosui, the quick Japanese rice porridge made with cooked rice (as opposed to okai or okayu, which is made on the Porridge cycle or on the stove with raw rice). It is a great fridge-emptier for lunch the day after you’ve fixed a chicken dinner and have just one or two pieces left over. This recipe is from Julie’s friend Sharon Noguchi, who learned to make it when she lived in Tokyo.

  YIELD: Serves 2

  2 large or 3 small dried or fresh shiitake mushrooms

  3 cups water

  One 1-inch square kombu (the seaweed used to make Dashi)

  ½ cup grated carrot

  ½ cup cooked skinless chicken cut into small chunks (or use another type of rather plain cooked meat)

  1 cup sliced Napa cabbage leaves cut crosswise ½ inch thick

  ¼ cup frozen petite peas

  1½ cups cooked Japanese-style white rice

  1 or 2 large eggs

  Salt (optional)

  Prepared chile sauce, chile paste, or chile oil, or a few drops of soy sauce (optional)

  1. If you are using dried mushrooms, soften them by soaking in hot water to cover for 30 minutes, or microwave them. To microwave, place the mushrooms in a container just large enough to hold them and add water just to cover. Cover the container tightly with plastic wrap and micro wave on high for 2 minutes. Let the mushrooms rest until they are cool enough to handle. Drain.

  2. Meanwhile, place the water in a medium-size saucepan. Gently clean the kombu square by wiping it with a damp paper towel, but do not remove the white powder, which adds flavor. Place the kombu in the water. Turn the heat to high. When the water boils, turn off the heat.

  3. To prepare the softened mushrooms, trim off the tough stems and discard. Slice the caps as thinly as possible. If you are using fresh mushrooms, simply trim away the stems and thinly slice the caps. Add the mushrooms to the pan with the kombu, along with the carrot and chicken, and turn the heat to high again. Stir in the cabbage and peas. When the mixture comes to a boil, stir in the rice. Gently pour in the beaten egg in a swirl pattern, letting it set for a few seconds before stirring. The result will be threads of egg. Cook 2 to 3 minutes more, until the rice begins to soften.

  4. Serve immediately, seasoned (if you wish) with salt to taste; a dash of chile sauce, paste, or oil; or just a few drops of soy sauce.

  FRIED RICE

  Giving recipes for fried rice is like giving recipes for tossed green salad. Yes, you can go to the store, buy specific items, and follow a recipe if you wish, but few salads are actually made that way. In reality, salad-makers open their crisper drawers and toss in what’s there. Leafy greens, yes, and the rest depends on what’s on hand.

  It’s pretty much the same with fried rice, which is popular in many Asian countries, and in the United States, too. “Fried rice for dinner is a staple for me,” says Judith Dunbar Hines, cultural liaison for the city of Chicago and former cooking teacher and recipe development consultant. “I always make double the amount of rice, usually Thai jasmine, keep two-inch chunks of bacon in the freezer, then mix and match with what is in the refrigerator—bits of raw or cooked vegetables and leftover chicken or pork. It is a different dish every time.” To make fried rice, you need rice, of course, some kind of onion, and whatever else you like—eggs, garlic, vegetables, bits of meat or seafood; all of these are good. Using some of these ingredients—or none of these—is also fine. Your seasoning can be as plain as a dash of salt and pepper or a splash of soy sauce or fish sauce, or you can use more elaborate bottled condiments such as oyster sauce and chile paste.

  Usually cookbooks have only one or two fried rice recipes at best, so we took it upon ourselves to gather a few favorite recipes from friends who are fried rice lovers. In the pages that follow, you can find some really special recipes. But first, here are some general tips for making fried rice. After reading them, you’ll be ready to clean out your own refrigerator!

  CLICK TO SEE THE BASICS : FRIED RICE

  fried shrimp brown rice

  This recipe is adapted from one in All American Waves of Grain by Barbara Grunes and Virginia Van Dynckt (Henry Holt, 1997), one of Beth’s favorite books. The recipe has had a few transmutations with every making, but it is a delightfully savory fried rice with small shrimp (we like to use the 51/60 count). The omelet is a snap to cut into strips with a nice pair of kitchen shears, such as ones made by KitchenAid, with blades that are as sharp as a paring knife and used only for food. We use the authors’ tip to use very cold rice (made the day before), even frozen rice that has just been taken out of the freezer before stir-frying, which seems to be especially important when using tender brown rices.

  YIELD: Serves 4 to 6

  ½ cup dried shiitake mushrooms

  3 tablespoons vegetable oil or Asian sesame oil

  2 large or extra-large eggs, lightly beaten

  1 large egg white, beaten until foamy

  2 teaspoons dry white wine

  2 teaspoons cornstarch

  ½ pound small shrimp, shelled, rinsed, and patted dry

  4 green onions, white parts and 3 inches of the green parts, chopped

  1 heaping cup bean sprouts

  ½ cup coarsely grated carrot

  ½ cup finely diced celery

  ½ cup finely diced zucchini

  2 ribs bok choy, chopped, or ¼ cup chopped fresh green beans

  ¼ cup reduced-sodium tamari (a thick, strong soy sauce)

  4 cups cold cooked brown rice, such as long-grain brown Texmati, Wehani, or red rice

  Asian sesame oil, for serving (optional)

  1. Soak the mushrooms in boiling water to cover until nice and soft, about 30 minutes, or microwave, covered tightly with plastic wrap, for 2 minutes. Let cool before draining. Trim away and discard the stems. Mince the caps and set aside.

  2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a 10-inch skillet or wok. Pour in the beaten whole eggs. When they have set, turn the omelet over with 2 spatulas; cook briefly on the second side, but do not brown. Slide the omelet out of the pan onto a plate; cut into thin strips with kitchen shears or a knife.

  3. In a medium-size bowl, whisk together the egg white, wine, and cornstarch. Add the shrimp and toss to coat.

  4. Wipe out the skillet or wok with a paper towel and add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over high heat. Add the shrimp mixture and stir-fry until lightly cooked, about 30 seconds. Transfer the shrimp to a bowl, leaving any liquid in the pan. Add the mushrooms, green onions, sprouts, carrot, celery, zucchini, and bok choy; sti
r-fry until cooked and warmed through, a few minutes. Add the tamari and rice; stir-fry, breaking up any clumps of rice, until nice and hot, about 5 minutes. Stir in the shrimp and cook until hot.

  5. Serve the rice immediately, with a drizzle of sesame oil over the top, if desired.

  plain fried rice, egg, and peas

  This is as plain as it gets. You can leave out the egg, the peas, or both and have an even simpler dish. Beth adds ½ cup or so of diced Chinese barbecued pork or honey-baked ham and a few sliced water chestnuts to this basic fry. Remember to use a very cold rice, such as Chinese-Style Plain Rice, so it will hold up during the cooking.

  YIELD: Serves 2

  1 green onion, white and green parts, sliced

  1 clove garlic, minced

  2 cups cold cooked rice

  1 large egg, lightly beaten (optional)

  ¼ cup frozen petite peas, thawed

  ½ teaspoon salt, or to taste (optional)

  2 teaspoons soy sauce

  1. Coat a 10- or 12-inch nonstick skillet or wok with nonstick cooking spray twice. Heat the skillet over medium-high heat. Add the green onion and garlic and stir-fry for a minute or two to soften the onion; do not let the garlic burn. Add the rice, breaking up any clumps; stir-fry the rice, allowing it to heat up and grow fragrant.

  2. If using the egg, push the rice over to one side of the pan and pour the egg into the empty space. Don’t worry if the edges of the egg run into the rice. Allow the egg to cook for a few seconds undisturbed; the bottom will begin to set. Then stir the rice into the egg, folding the rice and egg over and over to distribute the egg bits as evenly as possible throughout the rice. Add the peas and keep stirring. When the peas are almost hot, add the salt, if using, and soy sauce. Stir to combine and serve the rice immediately.

  mushroom fried rice with walnutsand scallions

  From creative recipe consultant Julia Scannel, here is one of her unique home recipes. She recommends serving this rice as a meal starter or appetizer piled into individual butter lettuce leaves with a drizzle of plum sauce—like the minced chicken dish served with lettuce leaves for rolling, burrito style, found at some Chinese restaurants. The fried rice should be hot so it contrasts with the cold lettuce leaf, a real sensory treat.

  YIELD: Serves 2 as a light meal, 4 as

  part of a larger meal

  ¼ cup fresh green beans cut on the diagonal into ½-inch lengths

  2 tablespoons soy sauce

  1 tablespoon oyster sauce

  1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine (available in Chinese markets) or medium-dry sherry

  1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon peanut oil ½ small white onion, diced

  2 cups chopped fresh mushrooms (mix of cremini, oyster, and shiitake)

  1 clove garlic, minced

  2 large eggs, lightly beaten

  1½ cups cold cooked white rice

  1 green onion, white and green parts, thinly sliced on the diagonal, for garnish

  2 tablespoons coarsely chopped walnuts, toasted, for garnish

  1. Blanch the green beans in a pot of salted boiling water for 1 minute; drain and set aside.

  2. Combine the soy sauce, oyster sauce, and wine in a small bowl and set aside.

  3. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a 12-inch skillet or heavy wok over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 2 minutes, stirring frequently to avoid burning. Add the mushrooms and stir frequently until they have cooked through, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and beans and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

  4. Make a large well in the bottom of the skillet by pushing the mushroom mixture to the outside of the pan. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon oil to the middle of the skillet. When the oil is hot, add the eggs to the well. After the eggs begin to set, gently stir until they reach a crumbly stage. Add the rice to the skillet and stir to incorporate the eggs and rice into the mushroom mixture, breaking up any clumps in the rice. Add the soy sauce mixture and stir to combine.

  5. Serve the rice immediately, sprinkled with the green onion and walnuts.

  sausage and portobello fried rice

  Atsuko Ishii, the source of so much of the information about Japanese cooking in this book, contributed this recipe. At home in Tokyo, Atsuko would make this fried rice with fresh shiitake mushrooms, but here in the States, the portobellos are always available and more reasonably priced. Choose oyster sauce for a mild dish, chile bean paste for a spicier one.

  YIELD: Serves 4 to 6

  2 medium-size to large portobellos or ½ pound fresh shiitake mushrooms

  8 ounces Polish smoked sausage

  3 large eggs, lightly beaten

  4 cups cold cooked rice

  4 green onions, white and green parts, sliced

  1 tablespoon oyster sauce or 1 tablespoon chile bean paste

  2 tablespoons soy sauce

  1. Clean the mushrooms by wiping them gently with a damp paper towel. Break off and discard the stems. Slice the caps about ½ inch thick. Cut the larger slices in half or thirds crosswise.

  2. Slice the sausage in half lengthwise, then into half-moon slices about 1.3 inch thick.

  3. Coat a 12-inch nonstick skillet with nonstick cooking spray. Heat the skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring gently so as not to break them. When they begin to soften, add the sausage and stir-fry until the sausage is slightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms and sausage to a plate.

  4. Quickly rinse and dry the skillet with a paper towel, coat it with nonstick cooking spray twice, and heat it over medium-high heat. When hot, pour in the eggs. Allow them to cook undisturbed for about 1 minute, until they are about half-set. Working quickly, add the rice, breaking up any clumps with your fingers or the spatula, and green onions. Stir to combine. Return the sausage and mushrooms to the skillet, stir to combine, and reheat. Add the oyster sauce and soy sauce and stir to combine. Serve the rice immediately.

  fried wild rice with chicken and vegetables

  Wild rice may sound unusual as a base for Chinese-style fried rice, but it is just as good as any Asian rice. It is a great way to use up leftovers, but we prefer to use it in equal proportions with long-grain white or brown jasmine rice to cut the inherent intensity of the grain.

  YIELD: Serves 4

  2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons canola oil or Asian sesame oil

  1 large or extra-large egg, lightly beaten

  1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

  1 teaspoon minced garlic

  3 fresh mushrooms, sliced, or one 4-ounce can straw mushrooms, drained and left whole

  1 whole boneless, skinless chicken breast, trimmed of fat and cut into strips

  2 green onions, white parts and some of the green parts, chopped

  1 stalk celery, diced

  ½ cup frozen petite peas or blend of peas and carrots, thawed

  ¼ cup diced cooked ham

  4 cups cold cooked wild rice or white and wild rice blend

  2 tablespoons oyster sauce or vegetarian mushroom oyster sauce

  1 tablespoon soy sauce

  2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil

  Pinch of freshly ground white pepper

  ¼ cup chicken stock

  1. Heat a small nonstick skillet over medium heat. When hot, add 2 teaspoons of the canola oil and the egg; tip the pan to spread the egg over the bottom of the pan (like you are making a crepe). Cook the egg until barely set; turn once and cook the other side for about 30 seconds. Slide the egg out of the pan and let cool. Fold over and cut into thin shreds with kitchen shears or a knife.

  2. In a 12-inch skillet or wok, heat 1 tablespoon of the canola oil over high heat. Add the ginger, garlic, and fresh mushrooms (if using straw mushrooms, add with the rice later in the recipe); stir-fry for 10 seconds. Add the chicken and stir-fry until cooked through, a few minutes. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, leaving any juices in the pan.

  3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon canola oil to the pan and add the green onions and celery. Stir-
fry until softened, a few minutes. Add the peas, ham, rice, and straw mushrooms, if using; stir-fry, breaking up any clumps of rice, until nice and hot, at least 5 minutes. Add the oyster sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, pepper, and chicken stock. Stir the chicken mixture and egg threads back in and cook until hot and the stock is evaporated. Serve immediately.

  poo khao phat supparot (thai pineapple fried jasmine rice with crab)

  This fabulously exotic recipe for fried rice comes from San Francisco food writer Joyce Jue. Although any long-grain rice can be used for Thai fried rice, long-grain jasmine rice works best. In Thailand, jasmine rice is also called fragrant or scented rice. While jasmine rice does not have an actual jasmine scent, or any fragrant flower petal for that matter, it does emit a pleasant floral aroma when cooked. The crab paste in soybean sauce is a prepared condiment. It is not crabby or fishy but it does bring a savory essence to the dish; it is easily found in Asian specialty markets.

  YIELD: Serves 4 to 6

  1 ripe fresh pineapple

  2 tablespoons vegetable oil

  ½ teaspoon salt

  3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

  ¼ pound medium-size shrimp, shelled and deveined

  ¼ pound cooked chicken, cut into ½-inch dice

  2 large or extra-large eggs

  1½ tablespoons Thai crab paste in soybean sauce

  1 to 2 tablespoons ketchup

  3 green onions, white parts and 1 inch of the green parts, thinly sliced

  4 cups cold cooked Thai Jasmine Rice, gently crushed to break up clumps

  2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla)

  Fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish

  2 ounces fresh lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, for garnish

  1 tablespoon crispy fried shallot flakes (a ready-to-use product), for garnish (optional)

  1. Preheat the oven to 400ºF.

  2. Cut the pineapple in half lengthwise. Hollow out each half, leaving the shells intact. Place the hollow shells on a baking sheet and set in the oven for 10 minutes to dry out. When dried, remove from the oven and set aside. Coarsely chop 1 cup of pineapple; place in a bowl and set aside. Keep the remaining pineapple for another use.