by Lisa Chaney
12 Ibid., pp. 143–44.
CHAPTER 26 : Survival
1 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 178.
2 Ibid.
3 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau, p. 438.
4 Ibid., p. 439.
5 Julian Jackson, France: The Dark Years, pp. 360–63.
6 Ibid., p. 4.
7 Ibid., p. 199.
8 Ibid., p. 308.
9 Charles Roux, Chanel, pp. 324–25.
10 Comte Jean d’Harcourt telephone interview with Adelia Sabatini, April 2010.
11 Archives of the Association Sainte Agnès, Saint-Martin-le-Vinoux, France.
12 Chanel Conservatoire interview, Mme Tassin.
13 Judith Thurman, Secrets of the Flesh: A Life of Colette, p. 197.
14 Ibid., p. 437.
15 Ibid., p. 436.
16 Jean d’Harcourt interview with Adelia Sabatini, April 2010.
17 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 290.
18 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 136.
19 Thurman, p. 445.
20 Coleridge and Woolf quotes from John Kerrigan, The Sonnets and a Lover’s Complaint, p. 51.
21 Jean d’Harcourt interview with Adelia Sabatini, April 2010.
22 Jean-Noël Liaut interview with the author, July 2009.
23 In Meredith Etherington-Smith’s Dalí biography, The Persistence of Memory, “the opium - smoking Cécile Goudreau is a thinly disguised portraitof Coco Chanel—Dalí gives the game away when he has her mention the Auvergne, Chanel’s birthplace,” p. 283.
24 Ibid., p. 89.
25 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 171.
CHAPTER 27: Von Dincklage
1 M. Flügge, Rettung ohne Retter, p. 109.
2 This information and much of what follows on von Dincklage is taken from M. Flügge, p. 109, and from two documents in the Swiss Federal Archives, which include letters from von Dincklage’s lawyer. At the time, 1950, von Dincklage was trying to reenter Switzerland.
3 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 98.
4 Sybille Bedford, Quicksands, p. 90.
5 Archives Fédérales Suisses (Bundesarchiv): Archiv des Schweizerischen Bundesstaates (1848–2009), File C.16-01373, February 2, 1950. According to this report, he was “directeur des transports” in Sanary.
6 Ibid.
7 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 94.
8 Flügge, p. 109.
9 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 96.
10 Bedford, p. 311.
11 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 94.
12 Ibid.
13 Bedford, p. 88.
14 Charles Coton interview, December 10, 1982, in Jacques Grandjonc and Theresia Grundtner, Zone d’ombres 1933–1944. Exil et internement d’Allemands et d’Autrichiens dans le Sud-Est de la France, p. 51.
15 Francine du Plessix Gray, Them, p. 170. The sections on von Dincklage in this brilliant and absorbing memoir proved critical in my unraveling of that secretly repugnant man’s chronology.
16 André Simone (pseudonym of Otto Katz), Men of Europe, pp. 16–17.
17 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 95.
18 Ibid.
19 Ibid., pp. 96–102.
20 Von Dincklage’s lawyer’s statement and the Swiss Archive files cited above in note 2.
21 Bedford, p. 312. Here Bedford describes von Dincklage as “made for the job [of spy], an effective charmer, a ruthless social butterfly with a heart of steel, ignorant of ideals, other humans’ pains.”
22 Plessix Gray, p. 169.
23 Ibid., p. 171.
24 Ibid., p. 169.
25 Samuel Marx, Queen of the Ritz, p. 106.
26 Ibid.
27 Plessix Gray, p. 170.
28 Ibid.
29 Archiv des Schweizerischen Bundesstaates (E4320B#1990/266#1551*, file C.16-01373 P); November 13, 1950, from the chief of police, Geneva, Switzerland, to his counterpart in Berne, Switzerland. The French intelligence report adds that von Dincklage “gave the impression he was trying to make deals with Germany and France . . . [he] visits one Leonardo Dickens (suspected of being head of Gestapo in Lugano).”
30 The police reports confirm von Dincklage’s position.
31 Plessix Gray, p. 218.
32 Dodie Kazanjian and Calvin Tomkins, Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman, p. 98. (Charles Roux, Chanel, version of this episode is on pp. 315–17.)
33 Marx, p. 179.
34 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 242.
35 Jean d’Harcourt interview, July 2009.
36 Archiv des Schweizerischen Bundesstaates (E4320B#1990/266#1551*, file C.16-01373 P); November 13, 1950, from the chief of police, Geneva, Switzerland, to his counterpart in Berne, Switzerland.
37 Marx, p. 174.
38 Jean d’Harcourt interview, July 2009.
39 Denis Demonpion, Arletty, p. 225.
40 Jean d’Harcourt interview, July 2009.
41 Ibid.
42 Ibid.
43 Charles Roux, p. 344.
44 Ibid., p. 334.
45 Letters between Churchill’s office, the Foreign Office, Vera Bate and Chanel (CHAR 1/ 272/, CHAR20/198 A, etc.) in the Churchill Archives Center, Cambridge.
46 Ibid.
47 Courrier du Préfet de Police, Direction de la Sûreté Générale, Contrôle Générale des Services de Police Ad. No. 583. I am indebted to Marika Genty for this document.
48 Ibid.
49 Ibid.
50 Churchill Archives Center documents referred to above, note 45.
51 This section, see James McMillan, Twentieth- Century France, pp. 147–51, and Julian Jackson, France: The Dark Years, pp. 561–66.
52 Jackson, pp. 577–92.
53 Churchill Archives Center documents referred to above, note 45.
54 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, pp. 113–15.
55 Charles Roux, pp. 346, 349.
56 Malcolm Muggeridge, Chronicles of Wasted Time, vol. XI, The Infernal Grove, p. 242.
57 Churchill Archives Center documents referred to above, note 45.
58 Documents and letters between the Foreign Office and the Zonal Executive Offices, Germany, between 1947 and 1948: http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/catalogue/displaycataloguedetails.asp?CATLN=6&CATID=1957690, and CATLN=6&CATID =3579445&j=1.
CHAPTER 28 : Exile
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, pp. 146, 147.
2 Ibid., p. 12.
3 Ibid.
4 Ibid., p. 170.
5 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 173.
6 Guy de Rothschild, The Whims of Fortune, p. 216.
7 Ibid.
8 Paul Morand, Journal inutile, January 11, 1971.
9 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 292.
10 Ibid.
11 Ibid., p. 300.
12 Diana Mosley, ed., The Letters of Nancy Mitford, p. 267.
13 Morand, Allure, p. 140.
14 Ibid., p. 65.
15 Claude Delay, Chanel Solitaire, p. 52.
16 Swiss Archive documents cited above.
17 Morand, Allure, p. 171.
18 Ibid., p. 143.
19 Ibid., p. 73.
20 Ibid., p. 120.
21 Ibid., p. 169.
22 Ibid., pp. 172–73.
23 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 267.
24 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 380.
25 Haedrich, p. 237.
26 In an interview and a number of telephone conversations, Michel Déon was most helpful in his nonjudgmental attitude toward Gabrielle, including the fantasies crucial to her sanity.
27 Michel Déon interview with author, August 2009.
28 Ibid.
29 Ibid.
30 Ibid.
CHAPTER 29 : Return: 1954
1 Dodie Kazanjian and Calvin Tomkins, Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman, p. 205.
2 Christian Dior, Dior by Dior, p. 16.
3 Ibid.
5 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion, p. 237.
6 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 197.
7 Ibid., p. 200.
8 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 120.
9 Chanel Conservatoire interview with Jean Cazaubon.
10 Galante, p. 207.
11 Cocteau, Le passé défini: Journal, vol. II.
CHAPTER 30 : I Prefer Disaster to Nothingness
1 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 169.
2 Ibid., p. 171.
3 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 210.
4 Susan Train interview with author, September 2008. Ms. Train’s vivid recall of this dramatic episode was inspiring.
5 Ibid.
6 Ibid.
7 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 18.
8 An ex-Chanel model in conversation.
9 Lady Derwent interview with author, May 2008.
10 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion, p. 311.
11 Ibid.
12 Galante, p. 225.
13 Diana Vreeland, DV, p. 132.
14 Ibid., p. 131.
15 Ibid., p. 130.
16 Ballard, p. 60.
17 Vogue, March 1959.
18 Marquand, p. 87.
19 Ibid., pp. 93, 119.
20 Roland Barthes, The Language of Fashion.
21 Haedrich, p. 215.
22 Ibid., p. 245.
23 Ibid., p. 240.
24 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 45.
25 Galante, p. 268.
26 Morand, Allure, p. 52.
27 Galante, p. 269.
28 Haedrich, p. 178.
29 Ibid.
30 Claude Delay, Chanel Solitaire, p. 142.
31 Ibid., p. 145.
CHAPTER 31: I Only Hear My Heart on the Stairs
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 55.
2 Claude Delay, Chanel Solitaire, p. 49.
3 Marika Genty, whose knowledge and apprehension of Gabrielle are almost unrivaled, in interview with author, September 2008.
4 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 222.
5 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 276.
6 An ex-Chanel model in conversation.
7 Morand, Allure, p. 21.
8 Ibid.
9 Michel Déon in interview with author.
10 Haedrich, p. 260.
11 Morand, Allure, p. 38.
12 Haedrich, p. 214.
13 Paul Morand, Journal inutile, June 3, 1969.
14 Claude Delay, interview with author, January 2010. Madame Delay’s thoughts on her friend’s inner life were instructive, and her comprehension of Gabrielle as unable to survive without her fantasies is most perceptive.
15 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 43.
16 Claude Delay in interview with author, January 2010.
17 Marquand.
18 Delay, p. 147.
19 Ibid., p. 161.
20 Ibid.
21 Claude Delay in interview with author, January 2010.
22 Haedrich, p. 259.
23 Marquand, p. 167.
24 Claude Delay in interview with author, January 2010.
25 Marquand, pp. 150–51.
26 Haedrich, p. 86.
27 An ex-Chanel model in conversation.
28 Delay, p. 164.
29 Massaro interview, Marika Genty.
30 Michel Déon, Bagages pour Vancouver, p. 276.
31 Morand, Allure, p. 169.
AFTERWORD: Those on Whom Legends Are Built Are Their Legends
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 175.
2 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 226.
3 Un Roi Seul, Dir. T. Demaizière and A. Y. Teurlai, 2008.
4 Suzy Menkes in interview with Karl Lagerfeld, International Herald Tribune, November 2010.
5 Un Roi Seul.
6 Morand, Allure, p. 21.
7 Chanel interview BNF.
8 Suzy Menkes in interview with Karl Lagerfeld, International Herald Tribune, 2010.
9 Haedrich, p. 17.
10 Morand, Allure, p. 45.
SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY
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Baudot, François, Chanel, New York: Assouline, 2003.
Bott, Daniele, Chanel: Collections and Creations, London: Thames and Hudson, 2007.
Charles Roux, Edmonde, Chanel, trans. Nancy Amphoux, London: HarperCollins, 1989.
———, The World of Coco Chanel, London: Thames and Hudson, 2005.
Delay, Claude (née Baillén), Chanel Solitaire, trans. Barbara Bray, London: Collins, 1973.
Fiemeyer, Isabelle, Coco Chanel: Un parfum de mystère, Paris: Petite Bibliothèque Payot, Editions Payot & Rivages, 2004.
Galante, Pierre, Mademoiselle Chanel, trans. E. Geist and J. Wood, Chicago: H. Regnery, 1973.
Gidel, Henry, Coco Chanel, Paris: Editions Flammarion, 2000.
Haedrich, Marcel, Coco Chanel, trans. C. L. Markmann, London: Robert Hale, 1972.
Haye, Amy de la, Chanel: The Couturière at Work, London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1994.
Leymarie, Jean, Chanel, Geneva: Editions d’Art Albert Skira, 1987.
Madsen, Axel, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, New York: Henry Holt and Co., 1990.
Marquand, Lilou, Chanel m’a dit, Paris: Editions Jean-Claude Lattès, 1990.
OTHER WORKS
Acton, Harold, Memoirs of an Aesthete, London: Hamish Hamilton, 1984.
Acton, Harold, More Memoirs of an Aesthete, London: Methuen, 1970.
Alexander, Grand Duke of Russia, Always a Grand Duke, New York: Farrar & Rinehart Inc., 1933.
Association des Amis d’André Gide, ed., Cahiers André Gide, vol. VIII, Paris: Gallimard, 1979.
Ballard, Bettina, In My Fashion, New York: David McKay, 1960.
Barthes, Roland, The Language of Fashion, Oxford: Berg, 2006.
Baudelaire, Charles, “The Painter of Modern Life” in The Painter of Modern Life and Other Essays, trans. and ed. Jonathan Mayne, London: Phaidon, 1964.
Beaton, Cecil, Beaton in the Sixties, Unexpurgated Diaries (ed. Hugo Vickers), London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 2003.
———, The Glass of Fashion, London: Cassell, 1954.
Bedford, Sybille, Quicksands, London: Hamish Hamilton, 2005.
Beevor, Antony, and Cooper Artemis, Paris After the Liberation, 1944–1949, London: Penguin, 2007.
Benstock, Shari, Women of the Left Bank, London: Virago, 1994.
Bernheimer, Charles, Figures of Ill Repute, London: Duke University Press, 1997.
Bernstein-Gruber, Georges, Bernstein le magnifique, Paris: Editions J. C. Lattès, 1988.
Billot, Marcel, ed., Journal de l’Abbé Mugnier (1877–1939), Paris: Mercure de France, 1985.
Blanche, Emile, More Portraits of a Lifetime, trans. Walter Clement, London: Dent and Sons, 1939.
———, Revue de Paris, t.6 279: Au Bureau de Revue de Paris.
Bodley, Ronald Victor Courtenay, Indiscretions of a Young Man, London: Harold Shaylor, 1931.
Buckle, Richard, Diaghilev, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1979.
Callil, Carmen, Bad Faith, London: Jonathan Cape, 2006.
Callwell, Sir C. E., Sir Henry Wilson: His Life and Diaries, London: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1927.
Capel, Arthur, De quoi demain sera-t-il fait?, Paris: Librairie de Médicis, 1939 (What Will Tomorrow Be Made Of?). trans. Adelia Sabatini. Published posthumously.
———, Reflections on Victory and a Project for the Federation of Governments, London: Verner Laurie, 1917.
Chadwick, Whitney, and Tirza True Latimer, eds., The Modern Woman Revisited, New Brunswick, NJ, and London: Rutgers University Press, 2003.
Chazot, Jacques, Chazot Jacques, Paris: Editions Stock, 1975.
Churchill, Winston and Clementine, Speaking for Themselves, ed. Mary Soames, London: Black Swan, 1999.
Clermont-Tonnerre, Elisabeth de, Mémoires, vol. I: Au temps des équipages, Paris: Bernard Grasset, 1928.
; Clermont-Tonnerre, Elisabeth de, Mémoires, vol. II: Les marronniers en fleurs, Paris: Bernard Grasset, 1929.
Clermont-Tonnerre, Elisabeth de, Mémoires, vol. III: Clair de lune et taxi-auto, Paris: Bernard Grasset, 1932.
Clermont-Tonnerre, Elisabeth de, Mémoires, vol. IV: La treizième heure, Paris: Bernard Grasset, 1935.
Cocteau, Jean, Journal 1942–1945, Paris: Gallimard, 1989.
———, Le passé défini: Journal, vol. V (1956–57), Paris: Gallimard, 2006.
Cocteau, Jean, Lettres à Sa mere, Paris: Gallimard, 1989.
———, Lettres à Jean Marais, Paris: Albin Michel, 1987.
———, Past Tense: Diaries, vol. I, London: Hamish Hamilton, 1987.
———, Past Tense: Diaries, vol. II, London: Methuen, 1990.
Colette, Autobiographie, Paris: Fayard, 1968.
———, The Complete Claudine, trans. Antonia White, New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2001.
———, My Apprenticeship, Music Hall Sidelights, London: Secker and Warburg, 1957.
Corbett, Patricia, Verdura, London: Thames and Hudson, 2002.
Craft, Robert, Stravinsky: Chronicle of a Friendship, New York: Alfred Knopf, 1972.
D’Abernon, Helen Venetia Duncombe Vincent, Red Cross and Berlin Embassy, 1915–1926: Extracts from the Diaries of Viscountess d’Abernon, London: John Murray, 1946.
Dalí, Salvador, Hidden Faces, trans. Haakon Chevalier, London: Peter Owen, 1973.
Das Braune Netz—Wie Hitlers Agenten in Auslande arbeiten und den Krieg vorbereiten, Paris: Editions du Carrefour, 1935 (The Brown Network: The Activities of the Nazis in Foreign Countries, New York: Knight Publications, 1936).
Davis, Mary E., Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism, Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 2006.
Débordes, Jacqueline, Coco Chanel, Olliergues: Editions de la Montmarie, 2006.
Demonpion, Denis, Arletty, Paris: Flammarion, 1996.
Déon, Michel, Bagages pour Vancouver—Mes arches de Noé, Paris: La Table Ronde, 1985.
Deslandres, Yvonne, and Florence Muller, Histoire de la mode, Paris: Flammarion, 1978.
Dior, Christian, Dior by Dior, trans. Antonia Fraser, London: V&A Publications, 2001.
Doerries, Reinhard R., Hitler’s Last Chief of Foreign Intelligence: Allied Interrogations of Walter Schellenberg, Portland, Oregon: Frank Cass Publishers, 2003.