by Lisa Chaney
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———, Le Regard de la mémoire (1914–1945), Paris: Actes Sud, 1983.
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———, Diaghilev et les Ballets Russes, Paris: Fayard, 1973.
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———, Twentieth- Century France, 1898–1991, London: Arnold, 1992.
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———, The Allure of Chanel, trans. Euan Cameron, London: Pushkin Press, 2008.
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———, Journal inutile, Paris: Gallimard, 2001.
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———, Lewis et Irène, Paris: Grasset, 1924.
———, Venices, trans. Euan Cameron, London: Pushkin Press, 2002.
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Musée Cévenol, Un secret Cévenol de Coco Chanel, Le Vigan: Gard, no date.
Norwich, John Julius (ed.), The Duff Cooper Diaries, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 2005.
Novick, Peter, The Resistance versus Vichy, London: Chatto and Windus, 1968.
Pavlovna, Marie, Grand Duchess of Russia, A Princess in Exile, New York: Viking Press, 1932.
Picardie, Justine, Coco Chanel, London: HarperCollins, 2010.
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Poiret, Paul, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret, trans. Stephen Haden Guest, Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1994.
Pomian, John, ed., J. Retinger: Memoirs of an Eminence Grise, Sussex: Sussex University Press, 1972.
Pougy, Liane de, My Blue Notebooks, trans. Diana Athill, London: André Deutsch, 1979.
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Reverdy, Pierre, Prose Poems, trans. Ron Padgett, New York: The Brooklyn Rail Black Square Editions, 2007.
Reves, Wendy and Emery, The Wendy and Emery Reves Collection, Dallas: Dallas Museum of Art, 1985.
Richardson, John, A Life of Picasso, vol. II, London: Pimlico, 1997.
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Rothschild, Guy de, The Whims of Fortune, London: Granada, 1985.
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Schiaparelli, Elsa, Shocking Life, London: J. M. Dent, 1954.
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Sert, Misia, Two or Three Muses, London: Museum Press, 1953.
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———, Women of Fashion: Twentieth- Century Designers, New York: Rizzoli International Publications, 1991.
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Wilson, Edmund, A Literary Chronicle of the Forties, London: W. H. Allen, 1951.
Wilson, Elizabeth, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, London: Virago Press, 1985.
ARCHIVES
Archives of the Association Sainte Agnès, Saint-Martin-le-Vinoux, France.
Archives Fédérales Suisses.
Capel, Arthur, correspondence, courtesy of Christopher Osborn.
Capel, Diana, correspondence to Duff Cooper, Churchill Archives Centre, Churchill College, Cambridge.
Chanel, Gabrielle, correspondence, courtesy of the Chanel Conservatoire.
Churchill Papers, Churchill Archives Centre, Churchill College, Cambridge.
Dalí correspondence, courtesy Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, Figueres, Spain.
Municipal Archives, Biarritz, France (Mairie de Biarritz, Service des Archives).
Municipal Archives, Garches, France (Mairie de Garches, Service des Archives—Documentation).
National Archives, Kew. Foreign Office records, FO 944/35 and FO 371/70892.
National Archives, Kew. War Office Records, WO339/55790, Arthur Capel file.
National Archives, Paris (Fonds Chanoine Mugnier).
Pavlovich, Dmitri, diaries, translated by William Lee, courtesy of Prince Chavchavadze.
Ponsonby, Dorothy, diaries, courtesy the Honorable Laura Ponsonby.
ILLUSTRATION CREDITS
1. View from Ponteils; author’s photo.
2. The Chanel inn, Ponteils; author’s photo.
3. Aubazine; author’s photo.
4. Gabrielle and Adrienne Chanel c. 1904. Courtesy LIFE ©. All rights reserved.
5. Etienne Balsan c. 1903. Courtesy of Antoine Balsan and Philippe Gontier.
6. Gabrielle Chanel c. 1910. Apic/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
7. Emilienne d’Alençon, 1875. Apic/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
8. Royallieu. All rights reserved.
9. Arthur Capel c. 1910. Courtesy of Christopher Osborn.
10. Arthur Capel and Gabrielle Chanel on horseback c. 1910. Courtesy LIFE ©. All rights reserved.
11. Arthur Capel on horseback c. 1910. Courtesy of Christopher Osborn.
12. Gabrielle in her own hat designs; Comoedia Illustré, 1910. All rights reserved.
13. Gabrielle Dorziat in “Marie-Louise” hats; Comoedia Illustré, 1910. All rights reserved.
14. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat, 1912. All rights reserved.
15. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat; Journal des Modes, 1912. All rights reserved.
16. Adrienne and Gabrielle Chanel in front of her Deauville shop. Courtesy LIFE ©. All rights reserved.
17. Tangoville sur mer, caricature of Coco Chanel and Arthur Capel by Sem; Bibliothèque des Arts Decoratifs, Paris/Archives Charmet/Bridgeman Art Library.
18. Gabrielle and friends outside Deauville shop c. 1914. Courtesy Ville de Deauville ©. All rights reserved.
19. Coco Chanel playing golf c. 1913; Apic/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
20. Coco Chanel and Arthur Capel on the beach at St-Jean-de-Luz, 1915; Apic/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
21. Pablo and Olga Picasso, 1917; Popperfoto/Getty Images.
22. Diana Capel by John Sargent; Private Collection.
23. The Capel Polo Trophy. Courtesy Polo de Paris; photo Adelia Sabatini.
24. Sergei Diaghilev and Igor Stravinsky; © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
25. Igor Stravinsky, José Maria Sert, Gabrielle Chanel and Misia Sert, 1920; Igor Stravinsky Collection; © Paul Sacher Foundation, Zurich.
26. Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich. From Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, Axel Madsen. All rights reserved.
27. Gabrielle and her dog at the Faubourg St-Honoré; Henri de Beaumont; All rights reserved.
28. Gabrielle Chanel and Dmitri Pavlovich c. 1921; All rights reserved.
29. Chanel N°5 by Sem, Musee Carnavalet/Roger Viollet/Getty Images.
30. Dancers from Le Train bleu, 1924; © Hulton Deutsch Collection, CORBIS.
31. Dancers from Le Train bleu, 1924; © Hulton Deutsch Collection, CORBIS.
32. Lubov Tchernicheva in Apollon musagète. Courtesy Dancing Times Archive.
33. Pierre Reverdy; Roger Viollet/Topfoto.
34. Paul Morand c. 1910; Martinie Roger Viollet/Getty Images.
35. Duke of Westminster; Sunday Telegraph, all rights reserved.
36. Eaton Hall; Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
37. Randolph and Winston Churchill with Coco Chanel; Hulton Archive/ Getty Images.
38. Marion Morehouse in dress by Chanel c. 1926; © Condé Nast Archive/ CORBIS.
39. Coco Chanel at Biarritz, 1928; FPG/Hulton Archive/Getty Images.
40. Coco Chanel, Misia and José Maria Sert, etc., on the Venice Lido; © Mary Evans/Rue des Archives/Talendier.
41. Gabrielle Chanel skiing with Etienne de Beaumont, etc. Henri de Beaumont. All rights reserved.
42. Coco Chanel in jersey suit c. 1931; Getty Images.
43. Coco Chanel in white satin pajamas; Photo by New York Times Co./Getty Images.
44. Coco Chanel with Lady Pamela Smith and models, 1932; © Bettmann/ CORBIS.
45. Coco Chanel with Cecil Beaton c. 1937; John Phillips/Time & Life Pictures /Getty Images.
46. Coco Chanel and Fulco di Verdura, 1937; Lipnitzki Roger Viollet/Getty Images.
47. Gabrielle with Salvador Dalí c. 1938. Image Rights of Salvador Dalí reserved. Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, Figueres, 2011.
48. Gabrielle with Apel-les Fenosa; Hoyningen Huene c. 1939. © R. J. Horst. Photo: courtesy Staley/Wise Gallery NYC.
49. Baroness M. van Zuylen and Serge Lifar; © Mary Evans/Rue des Archives/ Tallandier.
50. Baron Hans von Dincklage, passport photograph, 1950.
51. Model wearing Chanel suit; © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS.
52. Model in tiered strapless gown with roses; © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS.
53. Coco Chanel on mirrored staircase at her couture house, 1954; © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS.
54. Chanel models at 31 rue Cambon, 1958; Roger Viollet/Topfoto.
55. Coco Chanel pinning dress on model 1959; Archive Photos/Getty Images.
56. Animal sculptures in Chanel’s rue Cambon salon; © Simon Upton, The Interior Archive.
57. Dining room in Chanel’s rue Cambon apartment; © Massimo Listri/ CORBIS.
58. Fashion designer Coco Chanel c. 1965; © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS.
59. Models attending mass for Coco Chanel; © Bettmann/CORBIS.
INDEX
Abdy, Lady
Abernon, Helen d’
Abetz, Otto
Abetz, Suzanne
Action Française
actresses
Aimée, Anouk
Alain-Fournier
À la recherche du temps perdu (Proust)
Albania
Alcazar
<
br /> aldehydes
Alençon, Emilienne d’
Alexander, King of Yugoslavia
alienation
Allenby, Edmund
Allied Force Headquarters
Allied War Coal Commission
Allure of Chanel, The (Morand)
Amazons
American Emergency Rescue Committee
Amiot, Félix
Angèle (seamstress)
Antigone (Sophocles)
anti-Semitism
Apollinaire, Guillaume
Apollon musagète (ballet)
Après-midi d’un faune, L’ (ballet)
Aquascutum
Aragon, Louis
A. Rallet & Co.
Arbuthnot-Leslie, Mrs. William
Arcangues, Comtesse Mimi D’
archery
architecture
Argentina
Arletty
Arnaud, Marie-Hélène
Arrivabene, Madina
Arrivabene, Niki
Astruc, Gabriel
atelier system
Aubazine convent
Aubert, Mme.
Auden, W. H.
Auric, Georges
Auschwitz
Austria
Avedon, Richard
Bacall, Lauren
Bader, Théophile
Bailey, David
Baker, Josephine
Bakst, Léon
Balanchine, George
Bal du Comte d’Orgel, Le
Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Ballard, Bettina
Ballets Russes
Balmain, Pierre
Balsan, Charles
Balsan, Consuelo Vanderbilt
Balsan, Etienne
and Coco’s relationship with Capel
as horseman
in proposals to Coco
as womanizer
Balsan, Jacques
Balsan, Robert
Balzac, Honoré de
Banque de France
Barney, Natalie
Barrie, J. M.
Barrow, George de Symons
Barthes, Roland
Barthou, Foreign Minister
Basilica of Saint Anthony, Padua
Bate, Frederick
Bate-Lombardi, Vera
battle of the sexes
Beaton, Cecil
Beaufort Castle
Beaumont, Edith
Beaumont, Etienne de
Beaumont College
Beaux, Ernest
Bedford, Sybille
Beige