What She Ate
Page 26
NOTES
Introduction
which was fatal: Notable exceptions include the work of Susan Strasser (Never Done: A History of American Housework, 1982) and Ruth Schwartz Cowan (More Work for Mother: The Ironies of Household Technology, 1983).
Nell B. Nichols: “Nell B. Nichols’ Food Calendar,” Woman’s Home Companion, May 1953, 107.
“had a laugh”: Mabel Dodge Luhan, Intimate Memories, 89.
“numerous trivial details”: William Knight, ed., Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth, vii.
“People blame one”: Barbara Pym, No Fond Return of Love, 169.
“While we were at Breakfast”: Pamela Woof, ed., The Grasmere and Alfoxden Journals, Grasmere Journal entry March 14, 1802, 78.
only a “day laborer”: “A Plate of Sandwiches,” New York Times, June 10, 1894.
“What you call ‘premier’”: Mary Lawton, The Queen of Cooks—And Some Kings, 91.
“dog-like attachment”: Quoted in Victoria Glendinning, Anthony Trollope, 334.
“He might have been happier”: Eleanor Roosevelt, This I Remember, 349.
“Today finished my 4th novel”: MS Pym 45, Oct. 10, 1954, Papers of Barbara Mary Crampton Pym, Bodleian Library, University of Oxford, Oxford, UK.
Dorothy Wordsworth
“wild and startling”: Thomas De Quincey, Recollections of the Lakes and the Lake Poets, 134.
“impossible to describe”: Dorothy Wordsworth to Jane Pollard, April 21, 1794, Ernest de Selincourt and Chester L. Shavers, eds., The Letters of William and Dorothy Wordsworth, vol. I, 114.
“rambling about the country”: DW to Mrs. Crackanthorpe, ibid., 117.
“thick”: Pamela Woof, ed., The Grasmere and Alfoxden Journals, Grasmere Journal entry Jan. 16, 1803, 137.
“May 14 1800”: Ibid., 1.
More than two centuries: Peter Brears, who has conducted extensive research on the cooking at Dove Cottage, takes a different view. Citing several examples of Dorothy’s “culinary disasters” in his Cooking and Dining with the Wordsworths (23), he concludes that she was able to prepare plain, basic dishes but lacked the skills for anything more challenging.
“my saddest thoughts”: Woof, ed., Grasmere Journal entry May 16, 1800, 2.
“We had ate up”: Ibid., Jan. 27, 1802, 59.
“We got no dinner”: Ibid., June 12, 1802, 108.
“Wm was composing”: Ibid., Aug. 23, 1800, 17.
“Coleridge obliged to go”: Ibid., Sept. 1, 1800, 19.
“I baked pies”: Ibid., Dec. 23, 1801, 52.
“Priscilla drank tea”: Ibid., Dec. 2, 1800, 34.
“We had Mr Clarkson’s”: Ibid., Jan. 24, 1802, 58.
“We had pork”: Ibid., Feb. 11, 1802, 66.
“I made bread”: Ibid., May 29, 1802, 102.
“I threw him the cloak”: Ibid., June 14, 1802, 109.
“Oh the darling!”: Ibid., March 4, 1802, 74.
“How glad I was”: Ibid., March 7, 1802, 119.
“There was a sky-like”: Ibid., July 8, 1802, 119.
“I looked at everything”: Ibid., [Oct. 1802], 126.
Examined under infrared light: Ibid., 265.
“I kept myself as quiet”: Ibid., 126.
“Dear Mary had never seen”: Ibid., 128.
“melted away”: Ibid., 129.
“I cannot describe”: Ibid., 132.
“Again I have neglected”: Ibid., Jan. 11, 1803, 135.
“nice”: Ibid., 137.
“Intensely cold”: Ibid., Jan. 16, 1803, 137.
“Monda”: Ibid., [Jan. 17, 1803], 137.
“There are not many places”: William Wordsworth to Lord Lonsdale, [March] 1828, Ernest de Selincourt and Alan G. Hill, eds., The Letters of William and Dorothy Wordsworth, vol. V, 595.
a “fireside companion”: DW to Mary Laing, June 3, 1828, Ernest de Selincourt and Alan G. Hill, eds., The Letters of William and Dorothy Wordsworth, vol. IV, 611.
“in a sharp and cold”: John Nichols, The History and Antiquities of the County of Leicester, vol. 3, part 2, 1112.
“Five weeks have I been here”: DW to Jane [Pollard] Marshall, Dec. 26, 1828, de Selincourt and Hill, eds., Letters, vol. IV, 697.
“A gloomy morning”: DW unpublished journal, Nov. 25–30, 1828, DCMS 104.10, Jerwood Centre, Wordsworth Trust, Grasmere, UK.
“It may be called”: DW to Marshall.
“I am more useful”: Ibid.
“an honest good creature”: DW to Maria Jane Jewsbury, May 21, 1828, de Selincourt and Hill, eds., Letters, vol. IV, 606.
“all sorts of nice things”: DW to Catherine Clarkson, April 24, 1814, Ernest de Selincourt, Mary Moorman, and Alan G. Hill, eds., The Letters of William and Dorothy Wordsworth, vol. III, 137.
“She will be a right”: DW to Jewsbury.
“Dined on black puddings”: DW unpublished journal, Jan. 13, 1829.
“Rabbit pie”: Ibid., Dec. 25, 1828.
“our homely Westmoreland”: DW to Jewsbury.
“Fill the skins”: Hannah Glasse, The Art of Cookery, 249.
“so ill manufactured”: Mary Radcliffe, Domestic Cookery, 115.
“Merry Andrew”: Austin Dobson, ed., Selected Poems of Matthew Prior, 65.
“Moggy”: Philip Breslaw, Breslaw’s Last Legacy, 114.
“savoury and piquant”: John Totter Brockett, Glossary, 39.
“Black puddings are not bad”: Georgiana Hill, The Breakfast Book, in Kaori O’Connor, The English Breakfast, 115.
“I can walk 15 miles”: DW to William Jackson, Feb. 12, 1828, de Selincourt and Hill, eds., Letters, vol. IV, 580.
“excruciating torture”: WW to Jackson, April 10, 1829, de Selincourt and Hill, eds., Letters, vol. V, 63.
“child-like feebleness”: Mary Wordsworth to Henry Crabb Robinson, July 4, 1836, Ernest de Selincourt and Alan G. Hill, eds., The Letters of William and Dorothy Wordsworth, vol. VI, 275.
“faintness and hollowness”: WW to Robinson, July 6, 1835, ibid., 75.
“Let that pass”: Woof, ed., Grasmere Journal entry May 31, 1802, 103.
“It drew tears”: DW to Robinson, May 2, 1829, de Selincourt and Hill, eds., Letters, vol. V, 71.
“Wm & Mary left us”: Quoted in Robert Gittings and Jo Manton, Dorothy Wordsworth, 269.
“It will please Aunty”: Mary Wordsworth to Mary Hutchinson, Nov. 11, 1850, Alan G. Hill, ed., Letters of William and Dorothy Wordsworth, vol. VII, 291.
she said she was “ill-used”: Mary Wordsworth to Marshall, [December] 1835, Mary E. Burton, ed., The Letters of Mary Wordsworth, 140.
“You see”: Ibid.
“she was sure”: WW to Robinson, Nov. 25, 1835, de Selincourt and Hill, eds., Letters, vol. VI, 121.
“If I ask”: WW to Samuel Rogers, Sept. 26, 1835, ibid., 97.
“This is an intolerable”: Mary Wordsworth to Dora Wordsworth, Aug. 14, 1837, Burton, 164.
“I have been perfectly”: DW to Catherine Clarkson, April 27, 1830, de Selincourt and Hill, eds., Letters, vol. VI, 75.
“I wish you could”: Mary Wordsworth to Marshall.
“I feel my hand-shaking”: WW to Robinson, July 6, 1835, de Selincourt and Hill, eds., Letters, vol. VI, 75.
“She is . . . for a short space”: Mary Wordsworth to Robinson.
“Wakened from a wilderness”: DW to Dora Wordsworth, March 20, 1837, in Jiro Nagasawa, “An Unpublished Dorothy Wordsworth Letter of 20 March 1837,” Notes and Queries 48 (June 2001): 121.
Rosa Lewis
“England’s greatest woman chef”: “England’s Greatest Woman Chef,” Daily Mail, Feb. 25, 1909.
“the greatest woman cook”: “Cookery Best Paid Profession in the World,” Daily Sketch, June 13, 1914.
“When you cook a quail”: “British Queen of Coo
ks Advises Plain Cooking,” New York Times, Jan. 16, 1927.
“Rosa Lewis, cook!”: Mary Lawton, The Queen of Cooks—And Some Kings, 54.
“She began life”: Ibid., xi.
“Once, when I went out”: Ibid., 38.
“travesty”: “World-Famous Cook,” Daily Mail, Aug. 24, 1925.
“Her life is a solitary one”: Isabella Beeton, Beeton’s Book of Household Management, 1001.
“if cold meat”: Ibid., 1002.
“a little needlework”: Ibid., 1005.
“washer-up”: Lawton, 6.
“I worked in their family”: Ibid., 9.
“For an Englishwoman”: Ibid.
“I learnt to think”: Ibid.
“Just one of a number”: Ibid., 10.
“My family did not know”: Ibid., 4.
“I went off to church”: Ibid., 16.
“I took full charge”: Ibid., 44.
“I used to go”: Ibid., 51.
“I furnished the linen”: Ibid., 79.
“So I put my shoulder”: Ibid., 21.
“One King leads”: Ibid., 67.
“Woman Cook’s Triumph”: “Foreign Office Dinner,” Daily Telegraph, Feb. 20, 1909, 14.
“I was at the top”: Lawton, 86.
“What is to become of me?”: George Bernard Shaw, Pygmalion, edited by L. W. Connolly, 93.
“I was overwhelmed”: Lawton, 7.
“If you had a round back”: Ibid.
“She was one of the most perfect”: Ibid., 11.
“Lord Ribblesdale was the most”: Ibid., 100.
“boughten”: Ibid., 124.
“people used to lie under”: Ibid., 164.
“I was smartly dressed”: Ibid., 43.
“Although I was a servant”: Ibid., 183.
“Mrs. Charlotte”: Ibid., facing 84.
“My cook photographed”: Ibid. 83.
“Then I made all the gentry”: Ibid.
“the other side of life”: Ibid., 84.
“very ugly”: Ibid., 165.
“pure and classical parlance”: Lynda Mugglestone, Talking Proper: The Rise of Accent as Social Symbol, 212.
“insufferably vulgar”: Ibid., 93.
“Nothing more plainly shows”: How to Dine, or Etiquette of the Dinner Table, 12.
“They need not necessarily”: Lady Colin Campbell, ed., The Etiquette of Good Society, 135.
“Soup will constitute”: How to Dine, 8.
“Fish should be eaten”: A Member of the Aristocracy, Manners and Tone of Good Society, 93.
“No age, since that of Nero”: Harold Nicolson, “The Edwardian Weekend,” in The Age of Extravagance, Mary Elisabeth Edes and Dudley Frasier, eds., 247.
“A guest never eats”: Party-giving on Every Scale, or The Cost of Entertainments, 183.
“piquant savories”: Ibid., 207.
“Ample choice”: Campbell, 132.
“I still remember”: Consuelo Vanderbilt Balsan, The Glitter and the Gold, 83.
“very ragged”: Anthony Trollope, Miss Mackenzie, 97.
“thick and clotted”: Ibid.
“so fabricated”: Ibid., 99.
“After the little dishes”: Ibid., 101.
“Why tell of the ruin”: Ibid.
“Her place in the world”: Ibid., 102.
“the ordinary Englishman”: Ibid., 102.
“a by-word of ridicule”: Charles Elmé Francatelli, The Modern Cook, vi.
“A good woman cook”: Lawton, 91.
“M. Escoffier holds”: Nathaniel Newnham-Davis, The Gourmet’s Guide to London, 19.
“Baisers de Vierge”: Ibid., 20.
“one of the few Frenchmen”: Lawton, 91.
“I did the buying myself”: Ibid., 52.
“Whatever I got”: Ibid., 53.
“What I have always done”: Ibid., 13.
“just the same as if”: Ibid., 14.
“Good cooking really came”: Ibid., 89.
“You don’t want to know”: Ibid., 90.
“And I don’t like anything”: Ibid., 89.
“Englishwomen seem to be”: “England’s Greatest Woman Chef.”
“To cook, to a Frenchman”: “Cookery Best Paid Profession in the World.”
“Your American darkies”: Lawton, 92.
“the most wonderful”: Ibid., 63.
“There is probably no man”: “Hors d’Oeuvre,” Food and Cookery, July 1900, 196.
“an unconscious mockery”: Jane Ridley, The Heir Apparent, 445.
“Do you know”: “Cookery Best Paid Profession in the World.”
“Into the tea-room”: Newnham-Davis, 314.
“Mrs. Lewis lays it down”: Ibid., 315.
“one of those delicious”: Ibid.
“Pouding de Cailles”: Charles Herman Senn, The New Century Cookery Book, 541. I am indebted to Ivan Day for tracing Rosa’s signature dish back to Senn.
“Life became the War”: Lawton, 85.
“Every man who left”: Ibid., 180.
“a nice, damp plum-cake”: Charles Lister, Letters and Recollections, 222.
“I can not get”: Lawton, 206.
“There is nothing”: Ibid., 180.
“The young bloods”: Ibid., 179.
“The only thing”: Ibid., 180.
“Sables of Sin”: Ibid., 197.
“wearing a bile-green coat”: Joseph Bryan III, “’Orrible Woman,” New Yorker, Sept. 16, 1933, 23.
“had suddenly decided”: Anthony Powell, Messengers of Day, 51.
“an irascible, scowling”: Daphne Fielding, Mercury Presides, 171.
“cherrybum”: Theodora FitzGibbon, With Love, 50.
“after a court ball”: Fielding, Mercury, 172.
“You don’t know”: Powell, 135.
“Game Pie”: FitzGibbon, 48.
“the most remarkable woman”: Bryan, 23.
“You all know Lord Thingummy”: Evelyn Waugh, Vile Bodies, 43.
“The food at Shepheard’s”: Ibid., 112.
“the greatest people”: Lawton, 205.
“I wish I hadn’t”: Isabella Gardner to George Peabody Gardner and Rose Grosvenor Gardner, October 1937, quoted in Marian Janssen, Not at All What One Is Used To: The Life and Times of Isabella Gardner, 42.
“We were supposed to have”: Lawton, 54.
“many other families”: “Rosa Lewis funeral,” in “Tanfield’s Diary,” Daily Mail, Dec. 4, 1952.
Eleanor Roosevelt
“Victuals to her”: James Roosevelt and Sidney Shalett, Affectionately, F.D.R., 238.
“I am sorry”: Eleanor Roosevelt to the Ladies’ Home Journal, Sept. 29, 1939, quoted in Joseph Lash, Eleanor and Franklin, 456.
“sick-looking”: Alonzo Fields, My 21 Years in the White House, 46.
“infinitely superior”: Hiram Johnson to son, April 1, 1933, quoted in Frank Freidel, Franklin D. Roosevelt: Launching the New Deal, 285.
“We had a rainwater”: Ernest Hemingway to Mrs. Paul Pfeiffer, Aug. 2, 1937, in Carlos Baker, ed., Ernest Hemingway: Selected Letters, 1917–1961, 460.
“I suppose one ought”: Harold L. Ickes, The Secret Diary of Harold L. Ickes, 248.
“traditionally American”: “Roosevelts Hosts at State Dinner,” New York Times, Nov. 17, 1933.
“Gentlemen, let us adjourn”: William Harlan Hale, “An Attack Without Mercy,” Washington Post, Nov. 18, 1933.
“light American wines”: Catherine MacKenzie, “Simple Fare for the White House,” New York Times, Dec. 9, 1934.
“The sherry was passable”: Ickes, 248.
“abominable”: Diary, Nov. 20, 1933, box 1, Victoria Henrietta Kugler Nesbitt Papers, 1933–1949, Manuscript Division,
Library of Congress, Washington, DC.
“absolutely self-forgetful”: Eleanor Roosevelt, “My Day,” Sept. 1, 1936.
“How I wish”: Eleanor Roosevelt to Lorena Hickok, April 8, 1934, box 1, Lorena Hickok Papers, Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library, Hyde Park, NY.
“She so often said”: Eleanor Roosevelt, This Is My Story, 46.
“an almost exaggerated idea”: Ibid., 98.
“knowledge and self-confidence”: Ibid., 145.
“I was simply petrified”: Ibid., 141.
“He thought I was”: Ibid., 162.
“What she wanted”: Eleanor Roosevelt, “I Remember Hyde Park,” McCall’s, Feb. 1963, 73.
“Few pictures”: Blanche Wiesen Cook, Eleanor Roosevelt, vol. 1, 235.
“Religion was of the utmost”: Lash, 333.
“I looked at everything”: Eleanor Roosevelt, Story, 173.
“darky”: See Cook, vol. 2, 439.
“I think much can be done”: Eleanor Roosevelt, “If You Ask Me,” Ladies’ Home Journal, Dec. 1941, 48.
She was “shocked”: Eleanor Roosevelt, Story, 180.
“she-males”: Lash, 358.
“I prefer doing my politics”: Ibid.
“You have heard politics”: Ibid., 357.
“During this time”: Cook, vol. 1, 333.
“I would not be in this field”: Flora Rose to Eleanor Roosevelt, March 9, 1934, box 602, Anna Eleanor Roosevelt Papers, Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library, Hyde Park, NY.
“I can remember exactly”: Theodore Harris, Pearl S. Buck, 290.
“her disdain for any interest”: Lash, 456.
“good”: “7 1/2 Cent Economy Luncheons Served to the Roosevelts,” New York Times, March 22, 1933. See also the menu for Tuesday, March 21, 1933, “Luncheon,” in box 5, Nesbitt Papers.
“The turmoil in my heart”: Eleanor Roosevelt, This I Remember, 74–75.
“a real job”: Ibid., 76.
“Her vision shaped”: Cook, vol. 2, 30.
“a godsend”: Henrietta Nesbitt, White House Diary, 18.
“I don’t want”: Ibid., 20.