by Tom Acitelli
Not just generosity on Maytag’s part Burch.
“Tied to the fact” “A Progress Report on Consumer Issues,” U.S. News & World Report, October 27, 1975, 26.
“Other homesteading activities” Grossman, Beyond the Pale.
Something that made people happy Charlie Papazian, interview with the author, July 13, 2010. Papazian e-mailed the author recording files on this date in response to e-mailed questions.
“Go to hell” Mike Royko, “Big Taste Test Is Brewing,” Chicago Daily News, July 6, 1973. The author acknowledges the Newberry Library’s assistance in locating these Royko columns.
Judges’ reactions Mike Royko, “Worst, Best by Taste Test,” Chicago Daily News, July 9, 1973.
The 116-year-old brewery Don Russell, “Newspaperman Mike Royko’s Beer Ratings Caught on Nationwide,” Philadelphia Daily News, November 3, 2011, 35; Jerry Apps, Breweries of Wisconsin (Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 2005), 147.
The Most Influential Beer
Porter idea and schedule Carpenter; official brewery timeline from Anchor.
Described by one leading critic Garrett Oliver in The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food (New York: HarperCollins, 2003), 127.
No US-grown hops were considered John Segal Jr., interview with the author, December 29, 2011.
Details on hops, including where they grow Stan Hieronymus, e-mail message to the author, January 10, 2012. New York State was the nation’s largest hops producer in the nineteenth century, before mold and Prohibition ruined the industry (it has recently begun to recover). Hops are usually used in pellet form, rather than flower, by commercial brewers.
Maytag’s decision Carpenter.
Details on the birth of the Cascade hop Segal (John Segal Sr. died in 2004); Thomas Shellhammer and Alfred Haunold, “Cascade (hop),” The Oxford Companion to Beer (New York: Oxford University Press, 2012), 226-27; “How Adolph Coors Helped Launch the Most Popular US Aroma Hop and the Craft Beer Revolution,” In Hop Pursuit (blog), January 25, 2010, http://inhoppursuit.blogspot.com/2010/01/cascade-how-adolph-coors-helped-launch.html.
First bottles on June 26 Author’s e-mail exchange with Dave Burkhart; official brewery timeline.
Maytag didn’t think NPR interview with Maytag, accessed June 12, 2012.
More than 70 million cases Philip H. Dougherty, New York Times, May 27, 1977, section 4, 6, column 3.
Something had happened Carpenter.
Chez McAuliffe
Situation just as he had predicted McAuliffe, December 18; Julie Johnson, “Pull Up a Stool with Jack McAuliffe,” All About Beer, September 2011.
Canadian or European brands William J. Schmick Jr., “Homemade Imports,” Forbes, October 15, 1977, 33.
“Good and beautiful products” Craig Claiborne, “Cuisine Bourgeoise Out West,” New York Times, June 3, 1981, C1.
Marin French Cheese Company details Johnson, “Pull Up a Stool.”
Biographies of Stern and Zimmerman Suzy Stern Denison, interview with the author, January 7, 2012.
”History is important” McAuliffe, December 18.
“Vacuum cleaner of information” Lewis, December 1.
Details on the New Albion construction and layout McAuliffe, December 18; Don Barkley, interview with the author, January 3, 2012. McAuliffe also generously furnished the author with photos from that time period.
“Consecration of the New Albion Brewery”; “you telephone” Marketing material provided by McAuliffe to the author, including an invitation to the consecration.
The Bard of Beer
Had his first beer Stan Hieronymus, “Michael Jackson Drank Here: 25 Historic Beer Sites,” All About Beer, March 2005.
First Trappist ale tasting Daniel Shelton, “Michael Jackson, The Beer Hunter—Interview Preview,” August 7, 2007, accessed on YouTube, www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLohwMW7qjU.
“His Rubicon” Jay R. Brooks, “The King of Beer Writers,” Beer Connoisseur, Spring 2011, 15.
“[Jackson] invented the expression” Ibid., 16.
Coverage of American Beers Michael Jackson, The World Guide to Beer (New York: Ballantine, 1978), 202-15.
Robert Parker Jr. William Rice, “An Ombudsman for the Wine Consumer,” Washington Post, September 28, 1978, E18.
Long Days, Longer Odds
Associated Press reporter visit Robert McEwen, “American Style: The Best Brew,” Associated Press, December 26, 1977.
FDA and Michael Jacobson Ogle, 267; Josh Rubin, “Gum Arabic,” The Oxford Companion to Beer (New York: Oxford University Press, 2012), 413.
The Reagan administration scotched Judson O. Berkey, “The History of Alcoholic Beverage Labeling Regulation and Its Implications for a Health Claim on Wine Labels,” Harvard Law School, Winter Term 1998, 7-9.
Barkley-Lewis conversation and Barkley-McAuliffe conversation Barkley.
PART II
Tipping Points
Papazian biography Papazian.
Cadged and cobbled what they could Ibid.
“The difference is gargantuan”; it might cost 31 cents Murray Dubin, “Folks Who Brew Are Doing It at Home and Illegally,” St. Petersburg (FL) Independent, January 19, 1979, 7A.
The publicity around his arrest Papazian.
Eckhardt in Portland didn’t think about it Eckhardt, A Treatise on Lager Beers, 6.
Fritz Maytag in San Francisco Burch.
“It’s a dopey law” Dubin.
Cranston biography “Cranston, Alan,” Biographical Directory of the United States Congress, accessed January 3, 2012, http://bioguide.congress.gov/scripts/biodisplay.pl?index=c000877.
”A California homebrew curmudgeon” Fred Eckhardt, “Craft Beer—State of the Union, 2010,” All About Beer, vol. 31, no. 6.
“The slower you would drink it” “Homebrewers Want Tax Break,” Associated Press, June 10, 1976.
He proposed an amendment Jim Luther, Associated Press, August 25, 1978, AM Cycle.
Bill excerpt Public Laws Enacted During the Second Session of the 95th Congress, 1255-56.
He wanted a change Papazian.
“Where anyone could teach” “Kakes Studios Has It’s [sic] Roots,” accessed January 5, 2012, www.kakesstudios.org/profile.html. Note: The studios were opened by a former teacher with the Community Free School.
The idea for Zymurgy magazine Stan Hieronymus, “Zymurgy: AHA at the Beginning,” Appellation Beer website, August 2003, accessed January 6, 2012, http://appellationbeer.com/blog/zymurgy-aha-at-the-beginning/.
A newspaperman turned journalism professor “Memorial, Karl F. Zeisler,” University of Michigan website, accessed January 5, 2012, http://um2017.org/faculty-history/faculty/karl-f-zeisler/memorial.
Henry King details Joe Holley, “Henry B. King Dies at 84,” Washington Post, April 29, 2005, B07.
Excise tax details Stan Hieronymus, “Henry King: Another King of Beers,” New Brewer, Fall 2004; reproduced at Appellation Beer website, accessed June 12, 2012, http://appellationbeer.com/blog/henry-king-another-king-of-beers/.
Zymurgy mailing Papazian; Charlie Papazian, “A Beer Milestone—American Homebrewers Association Turns 30,” Examiner.com, December 5, 2008, www.examiner.com/article/a-beer-milestone-american-homebrewers-association-turns-30.
“Small, High-Quality Food Places”
Stern-Barkley conversation; workday routine details Barkley; Denison.
Upped production and requests from across the country McAuliffe, December 18; Barkley. Media coverage at the time also suggests that New Albion was in demand beyond the Bay Area.
$150 a week and all he could drink Barkley.
The company lost $6,000 “Profits Soar at New Albion Brewery,” Brewers Digest, October 1980, 56.
“It’s just like cosmetics, or bread” William Ristow and Michael E. Miller, “Brewing ‘Real Ale’ Is a Yeasty Business,” Washington Post, July 9, 1978, G9.
The Bearded Young Man from Chico
The homebrews turned into
dinner Burch.
Grossman’s biography Grossman, Beyond the Pale.
Trade show and Anchor visit Ibid.; Burch.
Anchor’s production Chris Hartman, “The Alchemist of Anchor Steam,” Inc., January 1, 1983.
Anchor’s bottle runs Ibid.
Chase & Sanborn coffee roaster Tom McNichol, “Anchor Aweigh, Full Steam Ahead,” Los Angeles Times Magazine, March 10, 1996, 22.
Supreme locally Anchor timeline.
Anchor was distributing Hartman, “The Alchemist of Anchor Steam.” Visit to New Albion Grossman, Beyond the Pale.
The Fireman and the Goat Shed
de Bakker bio; early brewery details Tom de Bakker, interview with the author, January 20, 2012.
Capped its first bottles; de Bakker quotes Charles Hillinger, “Small-Label Beers—More Are Brewing,” Los Angeles Times, June 24, 1980, A1.
100 more acres of Sonoma County “History of Sonoma County Wine Country,” accessed January 13, 2012, www.sonomawine.com/about-sonoma-county/history-of-sonoma-county-wine-country. Grossman and Camusi knew Grossman, Beyond the Pale.
First craft brewery not only in Oregon Andrew Jones, “Craft Brewing Defines Oregon as US Beer Capital,” National Geographic News website, August 10, 2001, http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2001/08/0808_oregonbrewing.html.
Ware biography; Hummer-Ware conversation; 43rd brewery license Stick Ware, interview with the author, January 19, 2012.
Increasingly cultish Big Beer “Coors Beer, Tastes Right,” Economist, May 17, 1975, 62.
Details of Boulder Brewing’s starting up Ware. The name would change to Boulder Beer Company.
Brewery construction and Gold Hill Inn delivery Ware; Roger Fillion, “Small-Batch Craft Brewer Taps Coors for Tips on Getting Started,” Rocky Mountain News (Denver), May 23, 2008.
West Coast Style
Reassessed their plans Grossman, Beyond the Pale.
45-gallon batches Ibid.
Grain pickups Barkley.
Routinely led classes Michael Lewis, interview with the author, winter 2012; McAuliffe, December 18.
“The Brewery, Northern California” and James Taylor was a beer fan Denison.
Jackson trip de Bakker.
Prial excerpt Frank J. Prial, “In California Wine Country, a Rare Beer,” New York Times, June 12, 1979, C14.
Thoughts on New Albion and a 10-barrel system Grossman, Beyond the Pale.
Even Maytag Hartman, “The Alchemist of Anchor Steam.”
He told the Washington Post Ristow and Miller, “Brewing ‘Real Ale.’”
Weinberg was predicting Grossman, Beyond the Pale.
“I was simply extrapolating” “The New Age,” Modern Brewery Age, March 27, 2000.
Fundraising, equipment and maybe this whole brewery thing Grossman, Beyond the Pale.
Lewis visit and recipe decision Ibid.
Not until the eleventh batch Rob Burton, Hops and Dreams: The Story of Sierra Nevada Brewing Company (Chico, CA: Stansbury Publishing, 2010), 186; Ken Grossman, e-mail message to the author, July 2012.
Mayflower Refugee
Bradford biography Daniel Bradford, interview with the author, September 30, 2011.
Evolution of The Complete Joy of Homebrewing Papazian. In that first issue of Zymurgy, it was called The Joy of Brewing.
Bradford’s reaction Bradford.
Matzen left the A.H.A. Hieronymus, “Zymurgy: AHA at the Beginning.”
Could even be found Charlie Papazian, “Daniel Bradford Comes on as a Hired Gun,” Examiner.com, April 9, 2009, www.examiner.com/article/daniel-bradford-comes-on-as-a-hired-gun.
Bradford efforts to sell the book Bradford.
Through the late spring and summer Papazian.
Estimated 1.4 million homebrewers Brad Smith, “Now That Home-Brew Beer Is Legal, Americans Savor Their Own Suds,” UPI, June 19, 1984.
The tone was Charlie Papazian, The Complete Joy of Homebrewing, 3rd. ed. (New York: Quill, 1983), 1.
“Wherever my travels take me” Papazian, The Complete Joy of Homebrewing, preface.
How the Brewpub Was Born
Blasting through the Cascades Michael Jackson, “How Bert Grant Saved the World,” Beer Hunter website, accessed January 17, 2012, www.beerhunter.com/documents/19133-001575.html.
Grant biography Peter Reid, “Keeping the Faith: Bert Grant of Yakima Brewing & Malting Co.,” Modern Brewery Age, November 18, 1991.
In Carter’s home state “Georgia Homebrewers Fight for Legality,” Modern Brewery Age, February 3, 1992, 3. It would not be until 1995 that homebrewing was legalized in Georgia.
In Washington State Washington State Legislative research office, interview with the author, January 18, 2012.
Details on the opening Jackson, “How Bert Grant Saved the World”; Scott Sunde, “Microbrewery Pioneer Bert Grant Led Northwest Beer Revolution,” Seattle Post-Intelligencer, August 1, 2001. The brewpub would eventually move to an old Yakima train depot.
Jackson-Grant conversation Jackson, “How Bert Grant Saved the World.”
Wearing a kilt Shelley Davis, “The Best of Brew,” Washington Post, June 24, 1984, D2.
Only to have disbelieving retailers de Bakker.
The First Shakeout
For the fiscal year ending “Profits Soar at New Albion Brewery,” Brewers Digest, October 1980, 56.
Promised to find investors Leo DeKinis (a banker who knew McAuliffe), interview with the author, January 12, 2012; Denison.
Responses like these Barkley.
The de Bakkers ran the numbers de Bakker.
Rolled out in 40 states “Budweiser Debuts New Light Beer,” Associated Press, March 1, 1982.
Market share of 32.5 percent PR Newswire, January 10, 1985.
”There are no easy answers” Michael A. Verespej, “It’s Hard to Beat the Busches,” Industry Week, July 12, 1982, 52.
No one would remember much McAuliffe, December 18; Barkley.
McAuliffe and his crew McAuliffe, both interviews with the author.
“That’s a Great Idea, Charlie”
“That’s a great idea, Charlie” Burkhard Bilger, “A Better Brew,” New Yorker, November 24, 2008, page 88.
Papazian decided Bradford.
Papazian hosted Papazian; Bradford.
Jackson-Burch conversation Burch.
Festival logistics “A Beer Drinker’s Program to the American Homebrewers Association Fourth Annual National Homebrew and Microbrewery Conference & National Homebrew and Country Homebrew Competition,” American Homebrewers Association, 1982.
In about an hour Burch.
Mingled with aficionados and the only region “A Drinker’s Program.”
“All the ambiance” and “a disaster” Dick Kreck, “The Association,” American Brewer, March/April 1988, 56.
Had to borrow money Vince Cottone, “Movement in the Right Direction,” American Brewer, Fall 1987, 28; Maureen Ogle, “First Draft Follies: Early History of the American Homebrewers Association and Brewers Association, Part 8,” accessed June 3, 2012, maureenogle.com/tag/first-draft-follies.
Buying its toilet paper in bulk Papazian.
The Third Wave Builds
Flew to Boston Matthew Reich, interview with the author, January 20, 2012.
Reich details Sandra Salmans, “A Local Beer Not for Everyone,” New York Times, February 19, 1985, D1, column 3; Matthew Reich, “The Old New York Beer Company Business Plan and Market Research,” 1982.
F.X. Matt Brewing details “Brewery History,” Saranac, accessed June 3, 2012, http://www.saranac.com/page/brewery-history; “Matt Generations Brew Utica History,” Utica (NY) Observer-Dispatch, April 2, 2007, 1.
Reputation for bluntness Reich; Steve Hindy, interview with the author, September 9, 2010.
“Dumbest idea” and wheels of commerce greased Reich.
To sell 4,000 cases Reich shared his business plan from the time with the author. Subsequent details about the start-up phase from Reich and other material prov
ided.
He was not familiar Reich.
Newman details and “hopped” Bryan Miller, “American Beer: How Changing Tastes Have Changed It,” New York Times, May 12, 1982, C1, column 4.
Vendors were not always happy Hindy.
“Americans like their beer cold” Doug G. Miller, “British-Trained Brewer Learns ‘Americans Like Their Beer Cold,’” UPI, January 4, 1983.
Chesbay details and “no cornflakes” Dan McCoubrey, “Virginia ‘Chesbay Beer’ to Challenge Imported Lager Market,” Washington Post, January 3, 1983, 9.
”Brew beer by tongue” T. R. Reid, “High Hopes for Home-Brew,” Washington Post, June 6, 1983, B1.
First American craft brewery Charlie Papazian, “Trailblazers of American Craft Brewing, 1983-1987, Part 1,” Examiner.com, August 16, 2011, www.examiner.com/article/trailblazers-of-american-craft-brewing-1983-1987-part-1.
Palo Alto Brewing details “A High-Tech Beer from Silicon Valley,” New York Times, November 15, 1983, D5, column 1; Erickson Report, vol. 1, no. 9, accessed January 23, 2012, www.realbeer.com/redbrickpress/tomb.html.
Thousand Oaks details The Microbrewed Beer of the Month Club newsletter, vol. 2, no. 10, April 1996, www.beermonthclub.com/newsletters/vol2no10.htm.
“White out ‘almond farm’” Bill Owens, interview with the author, May 2012.
“I sell it for a dollar and a half” William Least Heat-Moon, “A Glass of Handmade,” Atlantic Monthly, November 1987, 260.
Brewing 120 cases of beer Barkley.
Bridgeport Brewing details Karl Ockert and Dick Ponzi, interview with the author, spring 2010.
Widmer Brothers details Widmer Brothers website, accessed January 23, 2012, http://widmerbrothers.com; “Rob Widmer Interview, Part I,” Brewpublic, accessed January 23, 2012, http://brewpublic.com/beer-events/rob-widmer-interview-part-1/.
Born of a Belgian yeast strain Christine Frey, “A Moment with Paul Shipman, Founder of Redhook,” Seattle Post-Intelligencer, August 28, 2003.
Soon reached capacity and other Redhook details “About Redhook Brewery,” 7G Distributing, accessed January 24, 2012, www.abwholesaler.com/group04/7gdistributingllc1/OurBrands/Redhook; Michael Kaplan, “Tiny Breweries Work to Build Big Impact,” Advertising Age, April 7, 1986, S-12.
Who was also inspired “The Story Behind Hale’s Ales Brewery and Pub,” Hale’s Ales website, accessed January 24, 2012, http://halesbrewery.com/about_full.htm.