by Tom Acitelli
Poured the first beers Alf Collins, “Fresh Today,” Seattle Times, January 2, 1985, F5.
In an old general store “Brewing a National Image,” Associated Press, February 20, 1996.
128 breweries before Prohibition Brian Yaeger, Red White, and Brew: An American Beer Odyssey (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2008), 49.
“I just crank up” “Small Is Tasty,” Time, July 25, 1983.
Badgerow-Averill conversation and other Chelsea details Ted Badgerow, interview with the author, February 2, 2012.
“That have sprung up” “A High-Tech Beer from Silicon Valley,” New York Times.
The whole idea of homebrewing T. R. Reid, “High Hopes for Home-Brew.”
The Lesson of the Nylon String
Koch-Jackson conversation and Koch hunch confirmed J. Koch.
A friend of his grandfather’s and faded to background noise Ibid.
A rugby player from the Australian Outback Ibid.
Outward bound and lesson of the nylon string Jim Koch, written with Glenn Rifkin, “A Less-Is-More Lesson,” New York Times, July 20, 2003, section 3, column 5, 12; J. Koch.
Koch’s consternation J. Koch.
The advantage matrix Boston Consulting Group website, accessed February 8, 2012, www.bcg.com/about_bcg/history/history_1981.aspx.
The firm’s revenue John A. Byrne, “Are All These Consultants Really Necessary?” Forbes, October 10, 1983, 136.
Advising clients as Rolodex prominent Gregory K. Ericksen, What’s Luck Got to Do with It? Twelve Entrepreneurs Reveal the Secrets Behind Their Success (New York: Wiley, 1997), 45.
That was his epiphany J. Koch.
“We’ve spent 20 years” Bob Weinstein, “From Beer to Eternity,” Entrepreneur, February 1, 1997.
Charles Koch biography “Charles Koch, Director of the Boston Beer Company, Dies at 88,” PRNewswire, June 15, 2011.
“People don’t drink the marketing” and “plenty of breweries” J. Koch.
Nearing an all-time production peak “A Mixed Forecast for Beer,” Modern Brewery Age, 10. The chart from which the 195 million statistic is taken was printed in April 2006.
“This Connoisseur Thing”
New Amsterdam availability and sales Salmans, “A Local Beer Not for Everyone.”
Most popular lager Davis, “The Best of Brew.”
“Yuppies drink it” Salmans, “A Local Beer Not for Everyone.”
One Yuppie in particular Reich.
Details of VC takeover and brewpub Ibid.; Salmans, “A Local Beer Not for Everyone.”
“A soft drink” and Manhattan Brewing details “A Success Brewing,” New York, December 3, 1984, 38; Joe Klein, “Mr. Wrigley Brews His Dream Beer,” New York, July 16, 1984, 16.
New Amsterdam-Manhattan Brewing rivalry Joe Dolce, “Battle of the Brews,” New York, March 23, 1987, 26. Ware met a stockbroker Ware.
Details on new Boulder Brewing facility Steve Raabe, “Boulder Beer Takes Pride in Its ‘Intimacy,’” Rocky Mountain Business Journal, July 29, 1985, 4.
“A workingman’s drink” and “We have a better-educated” Mike Leary, “New Brand of Beer Is ‘Fresher,’” Boca Raton News, September 18, 1983, 13C.
Because Wine Making Takes Too Long
Slosberg biography and “you haven’t had real beer” Pete Slosberg, Beer for Pete’s Sake: The Wicked Adventures of a Brewing Maverick (Boulder, CO: Brewers Publications, 1998), 3-27; Pete Slosberg, interview with the author, March 5, 2012.
“Six weeks later” and took Slosberg back Slosberg, Beer for Pete’s Sake, 20.
More than in Europe
A little hungover and an assignment for her Rhonda Kallman, interview with the author, February 17, 2012.
Koch-uncle conversation James Koch, “Portrait of the CEO as Salesman,” Inc., March 1, 1988, 44; J. Koch.
“By choice and by assignment” Ericksen, “What’s Luck Got to Do with It?” 46.
Kallman biography Kallman. BCG would move to Exchange Place in Boston after that tower’s 1985 completion.
Koch-Owades relationship and Boulder/Newman apprenticeships J. Koch.
Became a Bruegger’s Bagels factory Cailin Brown, “Bagel Firm Purchases Old Brewery,” Albany (NY) Times-Union, June 15, 1989.
Details of Koch’s first sales call J. Koch.
Koch began reciting his memorized pitch J. Koch; Koch, “Portrait of the CEO as Salesman.”
“Sold an order for 25 cases” Kallman.
Lugging the ice-packed samples Kallman; J. Koch.
“A clean, clean beer” Bradford.
Koch showing mocked-up labels and New World as runner-up Robert A. Mamis, “Entrepreneur of the Year 1995,” Inc., December 1995, 54.
Koch and Kallman delivered the bottles J. Koch; Kallman; Jim Koch, interview with the author, July 21, 2011.
Early promotional materials Kallman.
“Straight lager country” and Bell details Yaeger, Red, White, and Brew, 48-49.
He asked the usual questions Badgerow.
May have become a chef CRJ Mellor, “Interview: Larry Bell,” BeerAdvocate, March 27, 2006, http://beeradvocate.com/articles/661.
Could produce in 30 minutes Linda Warren, “Tiny Michigan Brewery Just a Drop in Nation’s Beer Bucket,” UPI, July 13, 1986.
“You can now get more beers” Ibid.
Beer, It’s What’s with Dinner
When the local wing and Tupper details Bob Tupper, interview with the author, February 2012.
“If we did have to justify our existence” Greg Kitsock, “Dave Alexander on the End of the Brickskeller,” Washington Post’s All We Can Eat (blog), December 17, 2010, http://voices.washingtonpost.com/all-we-can-eat/beer/beer-dave-alexander-on-the-end.html.
“There is a new gourmet influence” Carole Lalli, “Beer Is Back,” Tri-City Herald (Kennewick, WA), August 5, 1984, 4.
“Not for the six-pack drinker” Salmans, “A Local Beer Not for Everyone.”
Four Belgian chefs Paddy Gunningham (Michael Jackson’s widow), interview with the author, February 2012.
“English beer authority” “Newman’s Brews Beer Tasting,” Albany (NY) Times-Union, October 31, 1986, C8.
“Charlie, the Washington Post” Bradford.
Started by Mike Bosak in 1979 Fred Eckhardt, “The Beer Enthusiast—25 Years,” All About Beer, March 2005, vol. 26, no. 1.
Readership of 160,000 Barry Witt, Wall Street Journal, July 25, 1983, section 1, page 13, column 1.
A weekday circulation of 249,000 “2 Portland Newspapers to Merge Operations,” New York Times, August 10, 1982.
Would sometimes suggest a particular style Eckhardt.
Ken Grossman’s Sierra Nevada and other trip details Jonathan Ingram, “‘A Glass of Handmade’ Revisited,” Beer Connoisseur, Summer 2011, 48.
Vats and Dogs
The call could not have come Slosberg, Beer for Pete’s Sake, 71-73.
Bronder-Slosberg friendship Slosberg; Mark Bronder, interview with the author, February 27, 2012.
With 40,000 barrels of six different types David E. Gumpert, “The Joys of Keeping the Company Small,” Harvard Business Review, July/August 1986, vol. 64, no. 4, 6.
Sierra Nevada was brewing Burton, Hops and Dreams, 94.
Was up to 3,000 barrels Davis, “The Best of Brew.”
26 craft breweries Bryan Brumley, “The Fizz Factor,” Associated Press, September 22, 1985; author’s count.
Bronder’s father Bronder interview.
They examined the economics Slosberg, Beer for Pete’s Sake, 66-67.
Two-barrel brewhouse “Reality Check,” Erickson Report, March 1996, accessed February 21, 2012, www.realbeer.com/redbrickpress/tomb.html.
Initially balked at Slosberg, Beer for Pete’s Sake, 67.
Slosberg’s imitation of Samuel Smith and naming decision Ibid., 70-71; Slosberg.
“The dog’s a kick” Bronder.
Beer and pizza powered Slosberg, Beer for Pete’s Sake, 72-73.
&nbs
p; Its executives said it wanted Rogers Worthington, “Giant Miller to Take a Swig Out of Leinenkugel’s Stein,” Chicago Tribune, December 14, 1987, business page 1.
To the Last Frontier and Back
Geoff and Marcy Larson biography and startup efforts Geoff and Marcy Larson, interview with the author, February 16, 2012.
Cases of their Alaskan Amber “Our History,” Alaskan Brewing Company website, accessed February 21, 2012, www.alaskanbeer.com/about-us/our-history.html.
Based on a popular local recipe Larsons interview.
Olde Heurich Brewing Company closed Marc Fisher, “Farewell, Olde Heurich! A Comback Ends,” Washington Post blog, March 1, 2006, http://blog.washingtonpost.com/rawfisher/2006/03/farewell_olde_heurich_a_comeba.html.
There was one left Melissa Mandell, “Schmidt’s Brewery Site (Now the Piazza at Schmidt’s),” Historical Society of Pennsylvania, accessed February 22, 2012, www.philaplace.org/story/319/.
Brewing disappeared altogether Rich Doyle and Dan Kenary, interview with the author, February 22, 2012.
Commonwealth Brewing Company and Wort Processors Bob MacDonald, “Boston’s Own Brewery-Restaurant Finally Open,” Boston Globe, August 28, 1986, calendar.
A recession low of 776.92 Jason DeSena Trennert, “Remembering the Reagan Bull Market,” Wall Street Journal, August 13, 2009.
Rich Doyle, Dan Kenary, and George Ligeti plans and travels Doyle and Kenary interview.
Canada had its own brush “Prohibition,” The Canadian Encyclopedia, accessed June 15, 2012, www.thecanadianencyclopedia.com/articles/prohibition.
Horseshoe Bay Brewery & Roller Inn Pub “About Us,” Howe Sound Brewing Company website, accessed June 15, 2012, www.howesound.com/aboutus/history.aspx; Papazian, “Trailblazers.”
Another creation of Mitchell’s Andrew A. Duffy, “A Perfect Pint of Craft Beer Is His Passion,” Victoria (BC) Times Colonist, June 17, 2009. Mitchell’s partners included Paul Hadfield and Raymond Ginnever.
Mass Bay Brewing Company startup details and Harpoon Ale Doyle and Kenary interview.
Weeping Radishes and Scottish Lords
Portland Lager details “Brewers of Portland Lager Claim Toehold in Maine Beer Market,” Bangor Daily News, September 3, 1986, 18.
Details of laird’s visit and could not stomach the process David Geary, interview with the author, February 29, 2012.
“After the mash” “History,” D. L. Geary Brewing Company website, accessed February 23, 2012, www.gearybrewing.com/history/.
Fundraising and other than the odd bottle of Samuel Adams Geary interview.
He didn’t really have, or particularly want Geary interview.
“Ah … D.L. Geary’s Pale Ale” Alan Pugsley, interview with the author, February 29, 2012.
Its biggest distributive coup Geary interview.
Catamount Brewing Company startup details Marialisa Calta, “Soon, Catamount Amber, a ‘British’ Pale Ale from Vermont,” New York Times, December 3, 1986, C18, column 1.
Summit Brewing Company startup details Mark Stutrud, interview by Andy Crouch, Beverage Magazine, November 2004, accessed February 26, 2012, www.beerscribe.com/stutrud.html.
Raised $500,000 by selling 30,000 shares “Microbreweries Tap Midwest,” Advertising Age, August 18, 1986, 58.
James Page Brewing details “Beer of the Week (Vol. LV),” May 14, 2010, www.fraterslibertas.com/2010/05/beer-of-week-vol-lv.html.
Abita start-up details and some of the purest around Abita Brewing Company president David Blossman, interview by Andy Crouch, The Beer in Me (blog), September 2009, www.thebeerinme.com/page.php?79; Oliver, The Brewmaster’s Table, 301.
Uli Bennewitz biography and Weeping Radish start-up details Uli Bennewitz, interview with the author, February 22, 2012.
North Carolina’s first commercial brewery Win Bassett of the North Carolina Brewers Guild, e-mail message to the author, February 24, 2012.
“If we had had Budweiser” Bennewitz interview.
Was packed in the summers and produced 400 to 500 barrels Ibid.
Here, There and Everywhere
He liberally sampled several Bradford.
Defining for the first time Ibid.
Were meant to be exacting and unforgiving Pugsley.
Summit out of St. Paul won the gold Craft beer lovers, or the merely curious, can while away an afternoon searching the Brewers Association’s online database of GABF medal winners: Great American Beer Festival website, “GABF Winners,” www.greatamericanbeerfestival.com/the-competition/winners/.
Part III
Unhappy Meals
Details on the McDonald’s protest Mary Davis Suro, “Romans Protest McDonald’s,” New York Times, May 5, 1986, C20.
“We don’t want fast food” “Turning the Tables,” Good, January 7, 2010, http://www.good.is/posts/turning-the-tables#.
Second Careers
Ed Koch pulled a tap Eleanor Blau and David Bird, “Burgeoning Brewery,” New York Times, May 14, 1986.
Koch and Potter/Hindy visits Hindy; Reich. Hindy and Reich now both describe themselves as good friends.
Hindy biography and standing on a grandstand Hindy; Steve Hindy and Tom Potter, Beer School: Bottling Success at the Brooklyn Brewery (Hoboken, NJ: Wiley, 2005), 2.
Sadat assassination William E. Farrell, “Sadat Assassinated at Military Parade,” New York Times, October 6, 1981, A1.
Hindy said no Hindy and Potter, Beer School, 2-3.
Hindy in Brooklyn and Hindy-Anderson Ibid., 5-10.
Davids and Goliaths
Koch wasn’t sleeping Kallman.
Samuel Adams distribution PR Newswire, April 25, 1986.
Distributed to the White House, Camp David and Air Force One J. Koch.
He ordered $2.7 million in equipment Mamis, “Entrepreneur of the Year 1995.”
Who by now was running Ibid.
“I’m almost 40” Ibid.
Heineken-Boston Lager contest “Brew Ha-Ha,” MacNeil-Lehrer Newshour, transcript, August 26, 1986.
500 Miles in a Rented Honda
“You don’t have to own your own brewery” Slosberg, Beer for Pete’s Sake, 67.
They drove 500 miles in a rented Honda Bronder. Pete’s would eventually switch to the Minnesota Brewing Company for its contract brewing.
New York Minutes
“Do you know who Milton is?” Hindy and Potter, Beer School, 25.
“What makes you think” Ibid., 34.
It would lose more than $1 million Mary Fran Gleason, “Miller, Bud to Boost Production; Matt Hopes to Survive,” Syracuse (NY) Post-Standard, February 6, 1989.
Matt could not compete Nick Matt, interview with the author, February 23, 2012.
They talked for the next 15 minutes Hindy and Potter, Beer School, 34.
Henry James’s novella “F. X. Matt II Dies at 67,” Modern Brewery Age, January 22, 2001.
Moeller and the recipe for Brooklyn Lager Hindy and Potter, Beer School, 27-28.
Raised $300,000 and Hindy returned briefly Ibid., 66-67.
Glaser’s design Ibid., 26.
First deliveries and first bottles to Manhattan via water taxi Steve Hindy, “Powered with Pride in Brooklyn,” All About Beer, November 2007; John E. Pepper, “Upscale Beer Segment Bucking the Trend,” Modern Brewery Age, July 10, 1989.
On Meserole Street Hindy and Potter, Beer School, 79.
15,000 barrels in annual sales and distribution in 22 states Reich.
Reich quotes; scored big on another investment Hindy and Potter, Beer School, 158-59, 212.
The Revolution, Televised
Details on Beer Hunter episode “California Pilgrimage,” The Beer Hunter, August 30, 1990. Accessed on YouTube March 3, 2012, www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtmxXgKU1o0. Anchor Steam was the only American brand in the opening montage.
One in four beers sold in the country Rich Exner, “Microbreweries Big Products in Small Pubs,” UPI, December 25, 1988.
Brewpubs were illegal “Micro Conference Looks
into Future,” Modern Brewery Age, September 18, 1989, 1.
Produced an estimated 120,000 barrels “Local Beers Brewing Popularity,” Chicago Tribune, January 29, 1989, 11. Readers should realize that production estimates throughout this book are just that. Often they were self-reported figures from individual breweries that were then culled for aggregate numbers.
Details of pioneering first Tim Blangger, “Tradition Is Brewing,” Allentown (PA) Morning Call, February 5, 1987; David Enscoe, UPI, December 10, 1989.
Hood River Brewing details Jonathan Nicholas, “Ale-ing Economy Gets Set to Take Off,” Oregonian (Portand), November 9, 1987, B01; Jonathan Nicholas, “New Venture Proceeding at Full Sail,” Oregonian (Portand), June 27, 1988, C01.
Great Lakes Brewing details Janet H. Cho, “Patrick Conway, the Man Behind Great Lakes Brewing and Christmas Ale,” Cleveland Plain Dealer, July 17, 2011, A1; “Local Beers Brewing Popularity.”
Connecticut Brewing Company details Vincent M. Valvo, “Hale-Bent to Join Micro-Age (No, We’re Not Talking Computers),” Intercorp, December 9, 1988, 35.
Deschutes Brewing details “Q&A: Gary Fish, Founder and CEO, Deschutes Brewery,” Oregon Business, October 2008.
Long Trail Brewing details Andy Crouch, “Welcome to the Age of Craft Brewery Consolidation,” BeerScribe.com, November 24, 2009, www.beerscribe.com/2009/11/24/welcome-to-the-age-of-craft-brewery-consolidation-long-trail-to-buy-otter-creek-brewing/.
Dean Biersch and Dan Gordon details Alan Liddle, “Biersch Proves Foam Is Where the Heart Is,” Nation’s Restaurant News, July 17, 1989, 3.
Rogue River Brewing details Rogue Ales website, accessed March 5, 2012, www.rogue.com.
Sierra Nevada’s East 20th Street expansion and Grossman was especially pleased Ken Grossman, interview with the author, April 26, 2012; Burton, Hops and Dreams, 95-99.
Details on Chicago breweries Curtis Hartman, “New Brew,” Inc., April 1, 1988, 86; “Brewpubs Foam Up in Chicago,” Nation’s Restaurant News, May 16, 1988, F110.
A Manifesto and Arnold Schwarzenegger
First International Slow Food Congress in its officious tracks Florence Fabricant, “Slow Food Congress Fights for Culinary Culture,” Nation’s Restaurant News, January 14, 1991.
Slow Food manifesto Carlo Petrini, Slow Food: The Case for Taste (New York: Columbia University Press, 2001), xxiii-xiv.