by Pamela Cox
30. Richard Foster, F. Cape & Co. of St Ebbe’s Street, Oxford, Oxford: Oxford City and County Museum, 1973 [not paginated].
31. Mrs Loftie, Social Twitters, London: Macmillan and Co., 1879, p.144.
32. Social Notes, 6 April 1878, p.93.
33. Jane Rendell, ‘“Industrious Females” and “Professional Beauties”, Or, Fine Articles for Sale in the Burlington Arcade’, in Iain Borden et al. (eds.), Strangely Familiar: Narratives of Architecture in the City, London: Routledge, 1996, pp.32–6.
34. Ibid.
35. Amanda Wilkinson, ‘Women and Occupations in the Census of England and Wales: 1851–1901’, unpub. Ph.D. thesis, University of Essex, 2012.
36. Ibid.
37. Reynolds’s Newspaper, issue 79, 15 February 1852. With thanks to Amanda Wilkinson.
38. Sir William Acton, Prostitution: Its Moral, Social and Sanitary Aspects, London: J. Churchill, 1857, p.64.
39. William Tait, Magdalenism: An Inquiry into the Extent, Causes and Consequences of Prostitution in Edinburgh, Edinburgh: 1840, p.146.
40. ‘The Great Social Question Revived’, The Morning Post, 11 January 1859, p.5.
41. Judith Walkowitz, Prostitution and Victorian Society, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1980.
42. Manchester Times, 20 August 1887, p.16. With thanks to Amanda Wilkinson.
43. ‘The Black Flag Hoisted in Regent Street’, The Pall Mall Gazette, 8 July 1887.
44. ‘Intemperance and Immorality’, Letter to the Editor, Reynolds’s Newspaper, 26 September 1886, p.2. With thanks to Amanda Wilkinson.
Chapter 3: Scandalous Shopgirls
1. ‘The Whiteley Tragedy’, The Daily Chronicle, 28 January 1907.
2. Linda Stratmann, Whiteley’s Folly: The Life and Death of a Salesman, London: The History Press, 2004, pp.109–117.
3. Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historic Monuments of Scotland, http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/115649/digital_images/edinburgh+47+48+49+50+51+52+princes+street+jenners/?show=all (accessed 21 February 2014).
4. Anthony Trollope, London Tradesmen, London: E. Mathews & Marrot, 1928, reprinted from The Pall Mall Gazette, 1880.
5. Zuzanna Shonfield, The Precariously Privileged: a professional family in Victorian London, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1987, p.44.
6. Osbert Lancaster, All From Memory, Cambridge, Mass.: John Murray, 1953, pp.62–9.
7. Henry Mayhew, London Labour and the London Poor, Volume 1: The London Street Folk, London: 1861–2 (a portion duplicate of 1851 edition), index for first 5 vols., pp.478–9.
8. John Thomson and Adolphe Smith, Street Life in London, London: S. Low, Marston, Searle and Rivington, 1877, auctioned 7 November 2001, see lib-161.lse.ac.uk/archives/digital/street_life_in_london.pdf. See Telegraph, 6 November 2013, p.21, or www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/art/artsales/10428053/The-world-of-Charles-Dickens-lives-on-in-Street-Life-in-London.html (accessed 3 March 2014).
9. ‘Resting-Places for Women Wayfarers’, Women’s Gazette and Weekly News, 3 July 1878, p.100.
10. Harriet Jordan, ‘Public Parks, 1885–1914’, Garden History, vol. 22, no. 3, 1994, p.89.
11. Bill Lancaster, The Department Store: A Social History, London: Leicester University Press, 1995, pp.25–8.
12. ‘Paddington Licensing Meeting’, Bayswater Chronicle, 23 March 1872; see extended discussion in Erica Rappaport, ‘“The Halls of Temptation”: Gender, Politics and the Construction of the Department Store in Late Victorian London’, Journal of British Studies, vol. 35, no. 1, January 1996, pp.67–75.
13. ‘Lunch with the Linendrapers’, The Graphic, 3 August 1872, p.98.
14. Eliza Linton, ‘The Girl of the Period’, Saturday Review, 14 March 1868, pp.339–40.
15. Eliza Linton, ‘The Philosophy of Shopping’, Saturday Review, 16 October 1875, pp.488–9.
16. William Ablett, Reminiscences of an Old Draper, London: S. Low, Marston, Searle and Rivington, 1876, p.36.
17. Charles Cavers, Hades! The Ladies! Being Extracts from the Diary of a Draper, Charles Cavers, Esq., London: Gurney & Jackson, 1933.
18. Lancaster, The Department Store, p.185.
19. London Standard, 21 January 1885.
20. Answers section, The Girl’s Own Paper, December 1886, p.192.
21. Judith Coffin, The Politics of Women’s Work: The Paris Garment Trades, 1750 –1915, Chichester: Princeton University Press, 1996, p.89.
22. ‘Women Who Work Behind a Counter’, Cassell’s Magazine, vol. 9, 1874, p.351.
23. J.E. Davidson, What Our Daughters Can Do for Themselves, London: Smith, Elder & Co., 1894, pp.49–51.
24. Sanders, Consuming Fantasies, p.28.
25. ‘Women Who Work Behind a Counter’, Cassell’s Magazine, vol. 9, 1874, p.350.
26. ‘Crib-hunting’, Cassell’s Saturday Journal, 2 April 1910.
27. Anthea Jarvis, Liverpool Fashion, Its Makers and Wearers: The Dressmaking Trade in Liverpool, 1830 –1940, Liverpool: Merseyside County Museums, 1981, p.34.
28. Lucy Duff Gordon, Discretions and Indiscretions, London: Jarrolds, 1932, p.67.
29. For extended discussion, see Joel Kaplan and Sheila Stowell, Theatre and Fashion: Oscar Wilde to the Suffragettes, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994, p.116.
30. Bystander, 27 July 1904, pp.437–8.
31. Duff Gordon, Discretions and Indiscretions, p.77.
32. ‘Rev. J. Campbell’s Libel on the West-End Trade’, The Drapers Record, 9 January 1909, pp.96–7.
33. Lancaster, The Department Store, p.181.
34. Sanders, Consuming Fantasies, p.159.
35. ‘Careers for Women’, Forget-Me-Not, 12 December 1903, p.661.
36. Forget-Me-Not, 23 August 1902, p.368.
37. ‘Life in the Shop: A Word on Living in. No Married Man Need Apply, by Our Special Commissioner’, The Daily Chronicle, 24 February 1898.
38. Dora Day column, The Shop Assistant: A Monthly Journal of Shop Life, Social Advancement and Reform, vol. 2., no. 13, July 1897, p.7.
39. Agnes Repplier, ‘English Railway Fiction’, in Points of View, Boston: Houghton and Mifflin, 1891, pp.209–10.
40. Arthur Applin, Shop Girls: A Novel with Purpose, London: Mills & Boon, 1914.
41. Francis Bacon, ‘Of Studies’, in Michael Kiernan (ed.), The Essayes or Counsels, Civill and Morall, Oxford: Clarendon, 1985, p.153.
42. Lady Laura Ridding. ‘What Should Women Read?’, Woman at Home, 37, 1896, p.29. Cited in Kate Flint, The Woman Reader, Oxford: Clarendon, 1993, p.52.
43. Geo Humphrey, ‘The Reading of the Working Classes in the Nineteenth Century’, Nineteenth Century, vol. 33, April 1893 pp.692–3.
44. For extended discussion, see Sanders, Consuming Fantasies, Chapter 4.
45. Dr Mary Wood-Allen, What a Young Woman Ought to Know, Philadelphia: Vir Publishing Co., 1905.
46. M. J. Loftie, Social Twitters, London: Macmillan and Co., 1879, p.44.
47. Sanders, Consuming Fantasies, footnote 28, p.241.
48. William Archer, The Theatrical ‘World’ of 1896, London: Walter Scott, 1897.
49. Mario Borsa, The English Stage of To-Day, London: John Lane, 1908, p.5.
50. Sanders, Consuming Fantasies, p.182.
51. Old Bailey Proceedings Online (www.oldbaileyonline.org, version 7.0, accessed 21 February 2014), Whiteley inquest, 18 March 1907 (t19070318-31), testimony of Mrs Elizabeth Lloyd, Horace Rayner’s wife’s aunt.
52. Ibid., testimony of George McConnell, messenger to an umbrella-maker.
53. Ibid., testimony of Dr Herbert Ernest Batten, casualty surgeon at St Mary’s Hospital.
Chapter 4: Grace Dare Undercover
1. Margaret Bondfield, A Life’s Work, London: Hutchinson & Co., 1948, p.28.
2. Hilda Martindale, From One Generation to Another, 1839– 1944: A Book of Memoirs, London: George Allen & Unwin, 1944, pp.34–5.
3. Bondfield, A Life’s Work, p.32.
4. ‘Life in the Shop: Crib Hunting.
Extracts from an Assistant’s Diary, by Our Special Commissioner’, The Daily Chronicle, 10 February 1898.
5. Bondfield, A Life’s Work, p.63.
6. Grace Dare, ‘Our Women’s Page’, The Shop Assistant, August 1896, p.7.
7. ‘Life in the Shop: A Word on Living in. No Married Man Need Apply, by Our Special Commissioner’, The Daily Chronicle, 24 February 1898.
8. Ibid.
9. ‘Usdaw’s History’, Usdaw, www.usdaw.org.uk/aboutus/usdawshistory.aspx (accessed 20 March 2014).
10. Fabian Tract No. 80, London: The Fabian Society, 1897, pp.11–12.
11. Bondfield, A Life’s Work, p.29.
12. Ibid., p.51.
13. ‘Miss Bondfield on Tour’, The Shop Assistant, July 1898, p.3.
14. ‘Life in the Shop: The Woes of a Forgotten Class, by Our Special Commissioner’, The Daily Chronicle, 4 February 1898, p.8.
15. Ibid.
16. ‘Miss Bondfield on Tour’, The Shop Assistant, p.3.
17. Marilyn French, From Eve to Dawn: Infernos and Paradises, the Triumph of Capitalism in the Nineteenth Century, New York: Feminist Press, 2008, p.283.
18. Mary Agnes Hamilton, Margaret Bondfield, London: Leonard Parsons, 1924, pp.95–6.
19. Nicole Robertson, The Co-operative Movement and Communities in Britain, 1914 –1960: Minding Their Own Business, Farnham: Ashgate 2010; Peter Gurney, Co-operative Culture and the Politics of Consumption in England, 1870 –1930, Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1996; Michael Winstanley, The Shopkeeper’s World, 1830 –1914, Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1983, p.36.
20. George Jacob Holyoake, Self-Help by the People: History of the Rochdale Equitable Pioneers, Part 1, 1844 –1857, London: Swan Sonnenschein & Co., 1907, p.41.
21. Winstanley, The Shopkeeper’s World, pp.87–8; C.P. Hosgood, ‘The “Pigmies of Commerce” and the Working-Class Community: Small Shopkeepers in England, 1870 –1914’, Journal of Social History, vol. 22, issue 3, 1989, pp.439–60.
22. Alison Adburgham, ‘Introduction’, Army and Navy, Yesterday’s Shopping: The Army & Navy Stores Catalogue 1907, Newton Abbot: David & Charles Ltd, 1969.
23. Jean Gaffin and David Thoms, Caring and Sharing: The Centenary History of the Co-operative Women’s Guild, Manchester: Holyoake Books, 1993, p.48.
24. Grace Dare, ‘Our Women’s Page’, The Shop Assistant, August 1898, p.32.
25. Harris’s report was discussed in Grace Dare, ‘Some Resolutions for the New Year’, The Shop Assistant, January 1898, p.129. See also Robertson, The Co-operative Movement.
26. Muriel Jeffs, ‘Margaret Llewelyn Davies and the Women’s Co-operative Guild’, in Bill Lancaster and Paddy Maguire (eds.), Towards the Co-operative Commonwealth: Essays in the History of Co-operation, Loughborough: Co-operative College, 1996; Gillian Scott, Feminism and the Politics of Working Women: The Women’s Co-operative Guild, 1880s to the Second World War, London: UCL Press, 1998.
27. ‘Good Food Cheap’, Daily News, 1903, and ‘The Opening’, Co-operative News, October 1902, p.4, both in COLL MISC 0268: Women’s Co-operative Guild: Sunderland Scrapbook 2, London School of Economics, Women’s Library Archive.
28. Philip Christopher Hoffman, They Also Serve: The Story of the Shop Worker, London: Porcupine Press, 1949, pp.48–9.
29. Ibid., p.54.
30. Dare, ‘Some Resolutions for the New Year’.
31. Cicely Hamilton, Diana of Dobson’s. A Romantic Comedy in Four Acts, London: Century, 1909, Act 1, Scene 1.
32. Bondfield, A Life’s Work, p.72. For commentary and contemporary reviews, see Diane F. Gillespie and Doryjane Birrer, Diana of Dobson’s, Ontario: Broadview Press, 2003.
33. Richard Foster, F. Cape & Co. of St Ebbe’s Street, Oxford, Oxford: Oxford City and County Museum, 1973; Angela Airey and John Airey, The Bainbridges of Newcastle: A Family History 1679–1976 [imprint unknown], 1979, pp.67, 115; David Wyn Davies, Owen Owen: Victorian Draper, Aberystwyth: Gwasg Cambria, 1983, p.80; Robertson, The Co-operative Movement.
34. Winstanley, The Shopkeeper’s World, pp.96–100.
35. Harrodian Gazette, 1909–13. For a longer discussion see Lise Shapiro Sanders, Consuming Fantasies: Labor, Leisure, and the London Shopgirl, 1880 –1920, Columbus: Ohio State University Press, 2006, ch. 2.
36. Gordon Honeycombe, Selfridges: Seventy-Five Years, The Story of the Store 1909–1984, London: Park Lane Press, 1984, p.186.
37. Winstanley, The Shopkeeper’s World, pp.72–3.
38. Philip Snowden, The Living Wage, London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1912, p.35.
39. Mrs Carl Meyer and Clementina Black, Makers of Our Clothes: A Case for Trade Boards, Being the Result of a Year’s Investigation into the Work of Women in London in the Tailoring, Dressmaking and Underclothing Trades, London: Duckworth and Co., 1909, pp.15–17.
40. Ibid., pp.17–18.
41. Ibid., p.190.
42. Ibid., p.184.
43. Hansard, House of Commons, vol. 155, col. 1888, 24 April 1906. See also James Thompson, ‘Political Economy, Labour and the Minimum Wage’, in Ewen Green and Duncan Tanner (eds.), The Strange Survival of Liberal England, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2007, pp.62–8.
44. Scott, Feminism and the Politics of Working Women, pp.100–101.
45. Hoffman, They Also Serve, p.78.
46. Ibid., pp.82–3.
47. Ibid., p.58.
48. James Kenyon and Sagar Mitchell, Mitchell and Kenyon 484: Crewe Hospital Procession and Pageant, Blackburn: Mitchell & Kenyon, 1907, held at the British Film Institute, London.
49. Votes for Women, 1 October 1908, p.5.
50. Diane Atkinson, Votes for Women: Women and the Suffrage Movement, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1988, p.27.
51. Elizabeth Crawford, The Women’s Suffrage Movement in Britain and Ireland: A Regional Survey, London: Routledge, 2000, pp.90, 132.
52. Christabel Pankhurst, Unshackled: The Story of How We Won the Vote, London: Hutchinson, 1959, pp.43–4.
53. Crawford, The Women’s Suffrage Movement, p.387; Martindale, From One Generation to Another, pp.34, 35, 172.
54. Molly Housego and Neil R. Storey, The Women’s Suffrage Movement, Oxford: Shire Library, 2012, p.34.
55. Women’s Social and Political Union, Handbill, March 1912.
56. ‘Citizens, Awake!’, Votes for Women, 8 March 1912; Patricia Greenwood Harrison, Connecting Links: The British and American Woman Suffrage Movements, 1900 –1914, Westport, Conn.: Greenwood, 2000, p.165.
57. Notes on Alice Ker’s and Alice Davies’ court appearances, Harrods Store Archive, April 1912.
58. Irish Times, 19 July 1912.
59. Letter published in Votes for Women, 6 September 1912.
60. Housego and Storey, The Women’s Suffrage Movement, p.46.
Chapter 5: Thoroughly Modern Management
1. David Wyn Davies, Owen Owen: Victorian Draper, Aberystwyth: Gwasg Cambria, 1983, p.18.
2. Ibid., p.22.
3. ‘American Business Methods’, The Drapers Record, 21 July 1906, p.153.
4. Susan Porter Benson, Counter Cultures: Saleswomen, Managers, and Customers in American Department Stores 1890 –1940, Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1986, p.231.
5. Ibid., pp.128–9.
6. Davies, Owen Owen, p.119.
7. ‘American versus English Shopping’, The Drapers Record, 28 April 1906, p.185.
8. For extended discussion, see Mica Nava, Visceral Cosmopolitanism: Gender, Culture and the Normalisation of Difference, New York: Berg, 2007, pp.41–54.
9. ‘American Business Methods’, The Drapers Record, 21 July 1906, p.153.
10. Michael Winstanley, The Shopkeeper’s World, 1830 –1914, Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1983, p.120.
11. Bill Lancaster, The Department Store: A Social History, London: Leicester University Press, 1995, p.195.
12. Winstanley, The Shopkeeper’s World, pp.127–32.
13. Christopher Hosgood, ‘�
�Mercantile Monasteries”: Shops, Shop Assistants, and Shop Life in Late-Victorian and Edwardian Britain’, Journal of British Studies, vol. 38, no. 3, July 1999, p.336.
14. Joseph Lewis della-Porta, Manchester House, Guest’s Hosier and Draper, Shropshire Archives.
15. Winstanley, The Shopkeeper’s World, p.12.
16. G.K. Chesterton, ‘The Big Shop’, Daily News, 27 January 1912.
17. H.G. Selfridge, Selfridge Editorial (Selfridge’s syndicated daily press column), 31 January 1912.
18. Daily Express, 1 February 1912.
19. Daily News, 2 February 1912.
20. Olivia [surname unknown], Olivia’s Shopping and How She Does It: A Prejudiced Guide to the London Shops, London: Gay and Bird, 1906, p.80.
21. Gordon Honeycombe, Selfridges: Seventy-Five Years: The Story of the Store 1909–1984, London: Park Lane Press, 1984, pp.37–42.
22. Honeycombe, Selfridges, p.233.
23. Lindy Woodhead, Shopping, Seduction & Mr Selfridge, London: Profile Books, 2007, p.96.
24. Harry Gordon Selfridge, ‘Spirit of the House’, and other items from the Selfridges Archives Collection.
25. From HAT (History of the Advertising Trust Archive, Norwich), cited in Lise Shapiro Sanders, Consuming Fantasies: Labor, Leisure, and the London Shopgirl 1880 –1920, Columbus: Ohio State University Press, 2006.
26. Sanders, Consuming Fantasies, p.79.
27. Honeycombe, Selfridges, p.189, and Selfridges Archives Collection.
28. Olive Christian Malvery, A Year and a Day, London: Hutchinson, 1912, p.151.
29. Susan Frances Lomax, ‘The Department Store and the Creation of the Spectacle 1880–1940’, Colchester: University of Essex, Ph.D. thesis, 2005, p.124.
30. ‘Crowds and Shop Windows’, The Times, 2 November 1910, p.8.
31. Lomax, ‘The Department Store’, p.50.
32. Bainbridge, 524/J/1, Doc 524 E2 Manuscript, Walter Brittain c.1948, John Lewis Partnership Archives Collection, quoted in Lomax, The Department Store [no page number].
33. ‘The European Crisis’, The Drapers Record, 8 August 1914, p.269.
34. ‘Meeting to Maintain Home Trade’, The Drapers Record, 28 August 1914, p.366.