by Pamela Cox
35. ‘Trade Recruits’, The Drapers Record, 5 September 1914.
36. Michael Moss and Alison Turton, A Legend of Retailing – House of Fraser, London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1989, p.108.
37. Philip Christopher Hoffman, They Also Serve: The Story of the Shop Worker, London: Porcupine Press, 1949, p.180.
38. Peter Cox, Spedan’s Partnership: The Story of John Lewis and Waitrose, London: Labatie Books, 2010, p.17.
39. Hoffman, They Also Serve, quoting John Lewis employee Mr L.R. Pritchard, p.182.
40. John Spedan Lewis, Partnership for All, London: Kerr-Cross Publishing Co., 1948, pp.5–10.
41. Grancey, Jonathan, A Very British Revolution: 150 Years of John Lewis, London: Laurence King Publishing, 2014, p.49.
42. John Spedan Lewis, ‘Dear to My Heart’, BBC Radio broadcast, 15 April 1957.
43. Jon Henley, ‘Is John Lewis the Best Company in Britain to work for?’, Guardian, 16 March 2010.
44. Spedan Lewis, Partnership for All, p.xv.
45. Cox, Spedan’s Partnership, p.47.
46. The Gazette, 1967, John Lewis Partnership Archives Collection.
47. Lewis, Partnership for All, pp.32–5.
48. Chili Bouchier, Shooting Star, London: Atlantis, 1995, p.28.
49. Karen Hunt, ‘Negotiating the Boundaries of the Domestic: British Socialist Women and Politics of Consumption’, Women’s History Review, 2000, vol. 9, no. 2, p.404.
50. Deborah Thom, ‘Women and Work in Wartime Britain’, in Richard Wall and Jay Winter (eds.), The Upheaval of War, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1988, pp.302–6; Appendix 11.1, p.318.
51. SA/WAR/1/1: WW1 female staff recruitment letter template [1914-1918], The Sainsbury Archive, Museum of London Docklands.
52. John Burnett, Useful Toil: Autobiographies of Working People from the 1820s to the 1920s, London: Allen Lane, 1974, pp.115–24.
53. Winstanley, The Shopkeeper’s World, p.133.
54. Margaret Bondfield, A Life’s Work, London: Hutchinson & Co., 1948, ch.10.
55. Lilian Wyles, A Woman at Scotland Yard, London: Faber & Faber, 1952.
Chapter 6: Strike!
1. Deborah Thom, Nice Girls and Rude Girls: Women Workers in World War One, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1998, pp.188–93.
2. Olivia [surname unknown], Olivia’s Shopping and How She Does It. A Prejudiced Guide to the London Shops, London: Gay and Bird, 1906, p.40.
3. Philip Christopher Hoffman, They Also Serve: The Story of the Shop Worker, London: Porcupine Press, 1949, p.171.
4. Ibid., pp.175–6.
5. ‘Shop Girls’ Strike’, Daily Mail, 27 April 1920, p.5.
6. Peter Cox, Spedan’s Partnership: The Story of John Lewis and Waitrose, London: Labatie Books, 2010, pp.67–8.
7. Hoffman, They Also Serve, pp.187; ‘Shop Girls’ Strike’, Daily Mail, 27 April 1920, p.5.
8. Hoffman, They Also Serve, p.187.
9. Ibid., pp.192–3.
10. John Spedan Lewis, Partnership for All, London: Kerr Cross Publishing Co., 1948, p.45.
11. Ibid., p.30.
12. Cox, Spedan’s Partnership, pp.70–75.
13. Chili Bouchier, Shooting Star, London: Atlantis, 1995, p.35.
14. Ibid., p.38.
15. Ibid, p.45.
16. Flora Solomon and Barnet Litvinoff, Baku to Baker Street: The Memoirs of Flora Soloman, London: Collins, 1984, p.152.
17. Helen Chislett, Marks in Time: 125 Years of Marks & Spencer, London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 2009, pp.9–12.
18. Photographs of Grainger Market, 1906; Lowestoft, 1910; Staff, Broad Street, Reading, 1912, Marks & Spencer Company Archive.
19. Paul Seaton, A Sixpenny Romance: Celebrating a Century of Value at Woolworths, London: 3D and 6D Pictures Ltd, 2009.
20. Solomon and Litvinoff, Baku to Baker Street, p.151.
21. ‘Report for 1917’, in Liverpool University Settlement Reports (1908–1918), Archive of the University of Liverpool.
22. Daily Mail, ‘General Electric Stand 69’, in Ideal Labour-Saving Home, 1920, p.vi.
23. Vera May Ashby, born 1911, audio interview, Witham Oral Histories, recorded by Janet Gyford, Essex University, 5 May 1981, Tape 46.
24. Susan Frances Lomax, ‘The Department Store & Modern Spectacle 1880–1940’, Ph.D. thesis, University of Essex, 2005, p.56.
25. James B. Jefferys, Retail Trading in Britain, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1954, pp.50–70.
26. Store Management, April 1937, p.209.
27. P. Scott & J. Walker, ‘Advertising, Promotion, and the Competitive Advantage of Interwar British Department Stores’, Economic History Review, vol. 63, no. 4, 2010, p.2.
28. Arnold Bennett letter, 13 March 1929, Harrods Archive, Press Cuttings vol. 156.
29. Bill Lancaster, The Department Store: A Social History, London: Leicester University Press, 1995, p.96.
30. Lomax, ‘The Department Store’, pp.58–65.
31. Solomon and Litvinoff, Baku to Baker Street, p.156.
32. E.B. from Leeds, ‘Progress 1926–1936’, Sparks Magazine, Christmas 1936.
33. Solomon and Litvinoff, Baku to Baker Street, p.157.
34. Michael Weatherburn, Imperial College Doctoral researcher, specialising in work efficiency and incentive methods in industrial Britain: research conversation with Lauren Bennie; Laurel Graham, ‘Lillian Gilbreth and the Mental Revolution at Macy’s, 1925–28’, Journal of Management History, vol. 6, issue 7, 2000, p.285.
35. ‘A Guiding Principle in Store Management’, Marks & Spencer Weekly Bulletin, 4 February 1928.
36. Solomon and Litvinoff, Baku to Baker Street, p.162.
37. E.B. from Leeds, ‘Progress 1926–1936’, Sparks Magazine, Christmas 1936.
38. Marks & Spencer, Staff Management News, vol. 1, June 1938.
39. Marks & Spencer, ‘Brighter Staff Regulations’, Sparks Magazine, Summer 1937.
40. Private collection of Jemma Jupp, granddaughter of Ethel May Jupp.
Chapter 7: Keep Calm and Carry On Shopping
1. Board of Trade reports, 1937, p.10, cited in Ina Zweiniger-Bargielowska, Austerity in Britain: Rationing, Controls, and Consumption, 1939–1955, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2000, pp.13–14.
2. Paul Rotha, dir. The Fourth Estate, London: Realist Film Unit, 1940.
3. Doris, audio interview by Daniel Swan, University of Portsmouth, 2012.
4. Winston Churchill speech to House of Commons, 18 June 1940.
5. Betty Yvonne Costard, audio interview, Imperial War Museum 1989, cat. no. 10879.
6. Beth Lloyd, De Gruchy’s: The History of Jersey’s Department Store of Distinction, London: Hale, 1982, p.119.
7. Ruby Grierson, dir., They Also Serve, London: Realist Film unit, 1940.
8. SA/WAR/2/IMA/1/7: Rationing notice, 1940, The Sainsbury Archive, Museum of London Docklands.
9. Sainsbury’s Archives Virtual Museum, 2001, http://sainsburys.lgfl.org.uk/ration_reg.htm (accessed 2 April 2014).
10. HMSO, How Britain Was Fed in Wartime, London, 1946.
11. Norman Longmate, How We Lived Then: A History of Everyday Life during the Second World War, London: Pimlico, 2002, pp.153–5.
12. SA/WAR/2/1/5: Letter from Alan J. Sainsbury to Mrs E. Sheppard, 25th April 1941, The Sainsbury Archive, Museum of London Docklands.
13. Grace, audio interview by Daniel Swan, University of Portsmouth, 2012.
14. Doris, audio interview by Daniel Swan, University of Portsmouth, 2012.
15. Annie, audio interview by Daniel Swan, University of Portsmouth, 2012.
16. Humphrey Jennings and Harry Watt, dirs, London Can Take It!, London, G.P.O, Fim Unit, 1940.
17. Ministry of Information Second World War Official Collection.
18. The Gazette, John Lewis Partnership Archives Collection, cited in Peter Cox, Spedan’s Partnership: The Story of John Lewis and Waitrose, London: Labatie Books, 2010, ch. 11.
19. The Gazette, quoted in Cox, Spedan’s Pa
rtnership, p.127.
20. ‘Establishing a Temporary Store’, www.woolworthsmuseum.co.uk/1940s-defiance.htm, Woolworths Virtual Museum, created by Paul Seaton.
21. Mark Roodhouse, Black Market Britain 1939 –55, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2013, p.80.
22. Michael Moss and Alison Turton, A Legend of Retailing – House of Fraser, London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1989, p.164.
23. Roodhouse, Black Market Britain, p.94.
24. Eric Newby, A Traveller’s Life, London: Harper Press, 2010, p.43.
25. Featherstone study cited in Roodhouse, Black Market Britain, p.99.
26. HMSO, How Britain Was Fed in Wartime, p.5. Statistics apply to 1944.
27. Grace, audio interview by Daniel Swan, University of Portsmouth, 2012.
28. Lloyd, De Gruchy’s, p.126.
29. HMSO, How Britain was Fed in Wartime.
30. Self-Service: The Journal for the Progressive Retailer, vol. 1, no. 2, December 1951, pp.8–10.
31. Penny Summerfield, Women Workers in the Second World War: Production and Patriarchy in Conflict, London: Routledge, 1989, p.31.
32. MOL to MOF, 6 June 1942, cited in Summerfield, ibid., p.113.
33. ‘Word War II Air Raid’, Lewisham War Memorials, Local History and Archives Centre, Lewisham, http://lewishamwarmemorials.wikidot.com, accessed 30 March 2014.
34. Helen Chislett, Marks in Time: 125 Years of Marks & Spencer, London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 2009, p.179.
35. Grace Golden, A West End Street Scene, 1945, catalogue ref. INF 3/1738, National Archives.
36. Cox, Spedan’s Partnership, p.138.
Chapter 8: Chelsea Girls and Counter-Cultures
1. Mary Quant, Quant by Quant, London: Pan Books, 1967, pp.46–8; Richard Lester, Boutique London: A History: King’s Road to Carnaby Street, London: ACC Editions, 2010, pp.10–11.
2. Cited in Alwyn Turner, The Biba Experience, Woodbridge: Antique Collectors Club, c.2004, p.9.
3. Quant, Quant by Quant, pp.46–8.
4. Marnie Fogg, Boutique: A ’60s Cultural Phenomenon, London: Mitchell Beazley, 2003, p.26.
5. Peter Stanford, Interview with Diana Melly, Independent on Sunday, 30 October 2005.
6. ‘The British Boutique Boom! Part 1’, Rave, September 1965.
7. Millicent Bultitude, Get Dressed: A Useful Guide to London’s Boutiques, The Garnstone Press, 1966.
8. Kate Finnigan, Interview with Celia Birtwell, Telegraph, 21 August 2011.
9. Nancy R. Ross, ‘Britain’s Fashion Revolution’, Spokesman Review, 27 May 1966.
10. Veronica Horwell, Obituary of John Stephen, Guardian, 9 February 2004; Clare Lomas, ‘“Men Don’t Wear Velvet You Know!” Fashionable Gay Masculinity and the Shopping Experience’, Oral History, vol. 35, issue 1, 2007, pp.85–6.
11. Turner, The Biba Experience, p.12.
12. Barbara Hulanicki, From A to Biba: The Autobiography of Barbara Hulanicki, London: V&A Publishing, 1983, p.79; Turner, The Biba Experience, p.16.
13. Turner, The Biba Experience, p.11.
14. Hulanicki, From A to Biba, p.78.
15. Turner, The Biba Experience, pp.23–4; Interview with Rosie Young, Marshwood Vale Magazine, 31 January 2013, www.marshwoodvale.com/people/articles/people/rosie-young (accessed 21 March 2014); Fogg, Boutique, p.179.
16. Peter Stanford, Interview with Diana Melly, Independent on Sunday, 30 October 2005.
17. Fogg, Boutique, p.47; British Style Genius, www.bbc.co.uk/britishstylegenius/archive.shtml (accessed 21 March 2014); The Look, http://rockpopfashion.com/blog/?p=43 (accessed 21 March 2014).
18. Manchester Beat, www.manchesterbeat.com/shops/clothes/index.php (accessed 21 March 2014); Fogg, Boutique, p.126.
19. Tony Greenway, ‘Pollyanna’s Rita Britton talks to Yorkshire Life about Barnsley roots’, Yorkshire Life, 12 December 2010, http://www.yorkshirelife.co.uk/people/celebrity-interviews/pollyanna_s_rita_britton_talks_to_yorkshire_life_about_barnsley_roots_1_1631706 (accessed 21 March 2014).
20. Pollyanna, www.pollyanna.com/page/about-us (accessed 21 March 2014).
21. Interview with Vanessa Denza, Victoria and Albert Museum, http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/vanessa-denza-mbe/ (accessed 21 March 2014).
22. Fogg, Boutique, p.22; Quant, Quant by Quant, p.80.
23. Brian Braithwaite, Women’s Magazines, London: Peter Owen, 1995, p.88.
24. Ibid.
25. Olive Robinson and John Wallace, ‘Part-time Employment and Low Pay in Retail Distribution in Britain’, Industrial Relations Journal, vol. 5, issue 1, 1974, p.39.
26. Ibid.
27. Kira Cochrane, ‘Forty Years of Women’s Liberation’, Guardian, 26 February 2010, http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/feb/26/forty-years-womens-liberation (accessed 21 March 2014). See also Michelene Wandor’s collection of interviews with those present: Once a Feminist: Stories of a Generation, London: Virago, 1990.
28. Michelene Wandor, ‘Interview with Audrey Wise’, in her Once a Feminist: Stories of a Generation, London: Virago, 1990, pp.200–205.
29. Ibid., p.210. See also Julie Langdon and Hilary Wainwright, Obituary of Audrey Wise, Guardian, 5 September 2000.
30. ‘Women’s Charter Falls By the Wayside’, Guardian, 3 September 1975, p.7.
31. Gordon Carr, The Angry Brigade: The Cause and the Case, London: Victor Gollancz, 1975.
32. Hulanicki, From A to Biba, p.120; Turner, The Biba Experience, pp.47–9.
33. Carr, The Angry Brigade, p.104.
34. Martin Bright, ‘Look Back in Anger’, Observer, 3 February 2002, www.theguardian.com/theobserver/2002/feb/03/features.magazine27 (accessed 21 March 2014).
35. BBC: On This Day, 10 September 1973, http://news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/dates/stories/september/10/newsid_3914000/3914415.stm (accessed 21 March 2014).
36. ‘British Boutique Labels of the 1960s and 1970s: Bus Stop’, Candy Says, www.candysays.co.uk/blogs/vintage-blog/6972642-british-boutique-labels-of-the-1960s-and-1970s-bus-stop (accessed 21 March 2014); see also Lee Bender, Bus Stop and the Influence of the 70s on Fashion Today, London: A&C Black Visual Arts, 2010.
37. ‘House of Fraser: Brief Summary of Company History’, version 2, December 2011, University of Glasgow Archive Services.
38. Obituary of Josephine Esther Bruce’, Independent, 29 August 1994.
39. Personal communication with Stephen Bourne, nephew of Esther Bruce and historian of black British life, April 2014; see also John Rex and Sally Tomlinson, Colonial Immigrants in a British City: A Class Analysis, London, Routledge and Kegan Paul, 1979.
40. Susan Okokon, Black Londoners: A History, Stroud: The History Press, 2009.
41. Christopher Middleton, ‘The Changing face of Britain’s Arndale Centres’, Guardian, 4 April 2001.
42. Daniel Miller, Peter Jackson, Nigel Thrift, Beverley Holbrook and Michael Rowlands, Shopping, Place and Identity, London: Routledge, 1998, p.33.
43. Ibid., p.35.
44. Margaret Thatcher, The Path to Power, London: HarperCollins, 1995, p.5.
45. Penny Junor, Margaret Thatcher: Wife, Mother, Politician, London: Sidgwick and Jackson, 1984, p.44.
46. Margaret Thatcher Foundation, ‘Remarks visiting Brent Cross Shopping Centre’, 17 February 1978.
47. Thatcher, The Path to Power, p.4.
Epilogue
1. For extended discussion, see J.A.N. Bamfield, Retail Futures 2018: Shop Numbers, Online and The High Street, Nottingham: Centre for Retail Research, 2013.
2. Mary Portas, ‘The Portas Review: An independent review into the future of our high streets’, December 2011, www.maryportas.com (accessed February 2014); Bill Grimsey, Sold Out, Croydon: Filament Publishing, 2012; Rosamund Urwin, ‘How to get your PG tips’, Evening Standard (London), 27 February 2014.
3. British Retail Consortium, Retail in Society: Britain’s Favourite Job, November 2011, p.19.
4. UK Commission for Employment and Skills, Working Futures 2012–1022, Evidence Report 83, March 2014.
See Table 4.2: Females. Occupational Categories.
5. https://nationalcareersservice.direct.gov.uk/advice/planning/jobprofiles/Pages/salesassistant.aspx (accessed 8 May 2014).
6. Jenny Shaw, Shopping: Social and Cultural Perspectives, London: Polity Press, 2010.
7. Daniel Miller, A Theory of Shopping, London: Polity Press, 1998.
8. Tim Walker, ‘We bought what we didn’t want’, Independent, 19 June 2009, p.32.
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